Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Noise Happens Only When Cold And Only At Low RPM
May 12, 2013
So my 2010 has been bulletproof thus far. Now the last few weeks I've been working on a new property and using 4x4 a lot and driving in deep/wet grass.
This noise happens only when cold and only at low rpm. In/out of gear moving stopped doesn't matter. Tried to take it to dealer and it was warmed up by then and not doing it! So ill take em this video and leave the truck there for a couple hours and see if they can duplicate it.
Any guesses what this is? [URL] ..... And why I've been distracted off my truck!
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This week was our first nice week of the year. Monday I got in my truck at lunch time turned the a.c. on and it blew ice cold. Today my truck sat in the sun all day and I got in it and turned the a.c. on. I noticed instead of the normal "click" you hear when the clutch engages in the a.c. compressor I got a wine and wimper kind of noise. The system never cooled the air after this happened. Is the compressor shot? Is it safe to drive or is the compressor going to tear itself up and send metal pieces thru the system?
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Just bought my first Ford. Its a 2015 F250 Platinum. Im at 1400 miles and Im becoming concerned because when I start the truck for the first time in the day, no matter how long I let it sit and warm up I am noticing that on the first couple of miles of driving I hear a high revving sound as I accelerate and it seems to quick shift during those first few miles.
As I continue to drive the high rev sound just fades away and all engine sounds and shifting are as normal as can be and will remain that way until the truck has been sitting for an extended period of time and is cold. I thought it had something to do with tranny temp but this morning I let the tranny warm up to about 115 deg in neutral before taking off but still had the high rev for the first few miles. I have never owned a ford nor have I ever owned a heavy duty truck, hoping this is normal.
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Noise question. I have a 2011 super duty f250 xlt, and my question is I have a grinding noise that does not sound metallic and only shows up when its below freezing, only in drive and for about 50 yards.
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6.2L F250 truck is just shy of 60k runs good however on cold startup there's now a pretty loud ticking noise for a short period (30 seconds) until it warms up then it slowly goes away. Once its warmed up there isn't much of anything.
Did these have exhaust manifold gasket problems like the 5.4? Hoping that's it if not, any other common problems that would make that ticking noise and then go away quickly once the engine is warmed up.
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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I'm having a problem with starting the V10 in my 99 E350 cube van. It refuses to start when cold unless I stick my finger in the idle air control valve and force it shut, or use starting fluid, or a combination of both. Once I do get it started, it will die if I touch the throttle, but once warmed up, it runs fine. I have replaced the IAC, the cylinder head temperature sensor, the fuel filter and fuel pump, and cleaned the MAF. My code reader shows no codes, and like I say once warmed up it will run fine and restart no problem.
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My 6.0 seems to only want to fire when cold, whats the issue?
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My 99 f450 7.3 runs bad on first start of day. I checked the codes 3 codes p0475, p0470 and p1247. Now here is what I tried I plugged it in over night and it will start and run as should the next morning with out side temp 47. Drove the truck late yesterday evening didn't plug up tried it this morning with a outside temp of 47 truck starts but missing and like of power. My problem seems to be temp related. Will low boost pressure cause this problem what do I need to do?
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2007 F350 Dually, 6.0L
AC will blow cold, then shift to blowing warm, muggy air, then back to cold. Seems to be some relationship with throttle movement. Cruising steady ac seems normal. Multiple throttle shifts in changing traffic seems to trigger the warm air. Once accelerate back to normal cruise, can feel clutch/compressor shift and blows cold again.
Any ideas? I have read a possible cause can be the ac clutch can wear and need to remove spacers? Is this a DIY job? What about the ac clutch relay switch? On reading an online repair manual, seems that the clutch is magnetic, and if no battery power to clutch, it removes itself from compressor?
Just had an EGR delete kit installed. Any relationship to this and ac problem?
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My tuck has been making a whining noise very similar to this and only when it's below freezing out. At 5 degrees it's even louder. Just noticed it the other day. Sounds like power steering whine. I have the 6.2 super duty.
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I think the truck needs a recharge, it's not blowing any cold air. The question is - which port do I use? There's one on the top of the accumulator and another in the line just off the passenger side of the radiator, near the coolant tank.
My only recharge experience was after I replaced a leaking accumulator in my 2007 Crown Vic police interceptor, and this obviously doesn't look quite the same.
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I have an 06 F-250 Lariat with the crew cab. Even though the windows are tinted, the A/C struggles to keep the cab at 70 degrees on any given sunny day oer 80 degrees outside.
As long as you're driving on the interstate, it blows cold, but when slowing down (like a traffic jam or a stop sign) the air gets warmer and has a funny smell (like it's wet).
When I got the truck it had just gotten a new A/C compressor (160k miles). It stopped working last summer (180k miles) so I had the truck at the Ford dealer here and they replaced the A/C compressor, condenser, pressure regulator and dryer...basically all A/C components under the hood.
They tell me its working fine, but I find that hard to believe. No Ford I've ever had has had trouble keeping the cab ice cold even on the hottest days... How are your air conditioners working? Do they keep the cab cold? What I should look at?
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My a/c compressor crapped out a summer or two ago. I ordered a new compressor and dryer, oiled up the compressor properly, hooked it all up, vacuumed out the system, filled it with fresh 134a and it worked just fine for about a year. Mid-late last summer, the a/c quit working, so I hooked up my gauges to check it out.
Everything reads in the proper range. The high side is only about 150, which isn't stellar, but not terrible either - certainly enough to cool things down. Anyways, when I was sitting at idle checking things out, my compressor was running all the time and not cycling on or off. Given that I was not overcharged (according to my HF gauges), I tried to add a little more to it. It would only take half a bottle and the compressor never started cycling on/off, so I stopped tinkering with it for a while to think on it. I noticed that when I had it on driving in town, I could hear the a/c kick on and off every couple seconds like it was still low, but my gauges didn't indicate that it was low and it wasn't taking a charge like it was low. This whole time, the air from the vents is not even cool - just straight outside air temp and the lines don't feel cold either.
I had hot-wired my compressor to stay on and same story. The gauges show it's compressing with the low side right where it's supposed to be and the high side a tad low at idle, but easily jumping up to within spec with mild revs. The whole time, the vents and a/c lines are no colder than ambient.
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I have a 2002 f250 superduty 5.4 4x4 around 317xxx original motor and trans. When it's cold out it won't start at all I have to use starting fluid but once started it will start right back up. Did the plugs fuel filter cleaned the intake and sensors still have a problem plenty of fuel pressure plenty of cranking amps brand new battery and Alternator. It just cranks and cranks when it's warm out fires right up. Runs smooth no lack of power or misfire no codes are being thrown also.
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Background : 2002 Excursion 7.3L, 320k miles ...
AC was working OK, but not great. Then AC stopped blowing cold at all. Checked pulley, gap was huge, but pulley bearing was completely destroyed. Like, 1/2" wobble, half the ball bearings in there. Amazed it hadn't seized. Replaced pulley, set air gap to bottom of the spec.
Air seems to blow kinda cold briefly, then fades to no cooling after a couple minutes. Same at idle or moving. Front and rear both not cold. Lines in engine bay are cool, but not real cold
Compressor body feels hot, like...right at that threshold of too hot to touch. Don't have pressure gauges, but will buy/borrow some and take some readings.
What would symptoms of a clogged orifice tube be? What would symptoms of a clogged condenser be? If low on r134, I could refill, but any tips on chasing down leaks?
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My truck: 2004 F250 SD 5.4L 191k auto lifted 3" 315/75/16 tires 3.73 rear. When I got the truck with 149k it got between 12.5-13.5 in town and 15.5-16.5 long hwy trips. Also the truck could get up and go no problems. Would easily go up hills without kicking down gears and shooting up in the rpms. Been pulling a 32ft trailer last two years and was getting between 6-8.5 mpg pulling it. The Truck is now slow to move up hill even when not towing, kicks down a lot and is getting horrible mileage. I could get 370 miles on a tank before, now I get 226 miles to a tank. Getting around 8.7-9.5 mpg in town and 10.8 hwy.
Two months ago I blew two plugs and had that repaired. (Gas mileage was falling before that happened and didn't change after it got fixed.)
Recently changed fuel filter, plugs, air filter and oil. Visually inspected MAF and I can't see any build up on it. Looks really clean.
So here is my questions... What else can I do to fix the gas issue. I am thinking about going down to a 285 or 295 series tire, but don't want the truck to look goofy with small tires on. 3" lift. So what else? Did someone say maybe the cat was starting to clog, but wouldn't that throw codes? Would a true cold air intake improve the performance?
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Here's what's happening:
I can have it on hot and be driving along, then it will start blowing cold air. I can move the temperature switch to cold then back to hot, and it'll start blowing hot air again.
Need to know if that would be temp or the motor? I don't want to just change parts randomly.
03 F250
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I have an 2006 F350 diesel. Starting my engine when cold produces a lot of smoke. It can take up to 10 times turning the key to finally get it to run. This is not a problem when I have the engine warmer plugged in. After the engine warms up the engine does not smoke anymore. Thinking about finally taking it in and having it worked on but thought I would ask your opinions first. I ran a quart of very expensive injector cleaner in it with no improvement. The engine light will sometimes come on and other times it won't come on. I did take the truck to Oreillys and had the engine analyzer on it and two pages of possibilities (problems) came up. Engine has 110K miles.
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I've noticed during the winter my 2012 6.2L engine seems to 'whistle' when it is cold. It also seems to do it intermittently...that is, it always whistles when cold, but it might stop for 30 seconds and then do it again. It does it at idle, and also when driving, just until it warms up.
What is it, and do other people's trucks here do that? I was thinking maybe the engine fan, but why would it cycle on and off for maybe 30 seconds. My other thought was A/C pump.
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Got the truck 2 months ago and it only happened 3 times; always on a cold engine.
2 times were on my street at low speed just out of my driveway. It's like the engine shuts down for a while and maybe downshifts too. Feels like someone is stepping on the brakes for a second and then all is back to normal.
Last time I was getting out of a restaurant and accelerating hard to get up to speed on a 70km/h road. The downshift happened while I was going almost 70 but still in low speed so the braking effect was severe enough to throw me forward. Once again everything was fine the next second.
I'm not sure if it's the transmission downshifting or the engine cutting; maybe even the ABS kicking in for some reason. It happens too fast and too rarely to be sure. My feeling from what I remember is that the truck is downshifting and I'm feeling the braking effects from compression. 6.2 engine.
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