I get allot of questions on just what to check when you get the ipr off the vehicle so you know if it is bad or not. In this video I go over what to look for in depth with an example of how a failure looks.
[URL]
2001 Ford F250 5.4 gasoline. At the most recent oil change my mechanic said there was an oil leak and he had dyed the new oil and cleaned everything up and to come back in 100 miles.I just did so and he said that it was a leaking head gasket. He said to do the head gasket replacement right or to put in a rebuilt engine would be close to same and he would recommend the replacement. He said it was not a heavy leak and probably ok to drive another 10,000 or so miles first. Just returned from a trip where we drove 15 hours straight (30 degree temps) and the truck ran fine and no overheating.There does not appear to be oil in coolant or vice versa. I took the cap off overflow coolant and cranked and revved and no disturbance whatsoever. I read somewhere where a mechanic was saying it was impossible for this Ford engine to leak oil from a head gasket failure .
View 7 RepliesFirst, I am fortunate that I was only going 25 mph when some turned in front of me causing me to slam on the brakes. The pedal went to the floor, but did slow the truck enough to miss the jerk. Had I been on the highway, it would have been very bad.
Anyway, what I found is still hard for me to believe for two reasons. It find it hard to believe it failed, but more important that I am getting the last national inventory of 2 of the 3 lines in this picture (according to my Ford dealer).
The three lines are almost directly under the front end of the master cylinder between the block and frame. These are as I found them. The larger one goes to the rear feeding both rear brakes while the two smaller run to the front brakes. The spring looking part below is just a plastic protector. The line which failed goes to the front left.
I think anyone with a 2005 SuperDuty which uses the same or similar parts should take a very close look at the flex sections. The parts I have ordered are: 6C3Z-2B523-BA, 6C3Z-2263-BA, and 6C3Z-2264-BA (rear, right, and left).
How long a manufacture is required to maintain inventory? I thought 7 years, but someone suggested 17. I'm at 8 years, but I would have expected more than 1 each of the fronts to be available. Do they changed parts on the '06 or '07?
My 350 spent 2 winters in the Chicago area and has been resting in Florida since 2006. No work was done in this area, but the closest work was the main fuel pump (frame mounted) replaced 2 years ago, but that is almost 2 feet to the rear.
I have a 99 f450 4X4 I'm having brake problems. Without warning when I go to stop my peddle will go right to the floor and I can't stop, at other times I go to stop and the peddle is stiff and I have to put all I have in to it to stop. The abs light comes on and off occasionally at random but as the brake failure has become more and more frequent so has the abs light. Also my steering does seem a bit off, a little tough N jerky and the power steering pump is whining.
View 6 RepliesFor about 6 months the cruise control on our '09 F-250 has been intermittently failing. One time I'll set it and it will work fine, the next time I try to set it and it fails. No particular rhyme or reason to when it fails to set.
Some of the tests that I did indicated it was the brake light switch on the brake pedal arm. It seemed to work perfectly a few times that I drove it after the installation but now it's back to working when it wants to.
I had a problem with the cruise on our '06 Ranger and it turned out to be the module. It acted a bit the same way in that it would set sometimes, other time not. I don't know if the two systems are similar or not.
My truck had devolped a whine/howl over the past coulple hundred miles. I thought it was a wheel bearing failing me. So yesterday I pulled it into the shop and jacked up the front end. Everthing checked out fine so I jacked up the rear end, started it up, put it in gear and to my surprise the noise was from the rear end.
I pulled the rear end apart and found the front pinion bearing had a defect in the race and the rollers were starting to pit out causing the noise and harshness when turning it. The truck has 130k, seal wasnt leaking and fluid looked/smelled normal. I think it was a legitimate defect not from abuse or lack of maintenance.
I have a 2010 f250 6.4 About two months ago the truck just quite on me. I am a farmer in south jersey and have a decent background in diesel motors. First thing that came to mind was fuel. I assumed I was having a fuel issue (clogged filters, failed pump, etc.) truck only had 45,000 miles on it so I took it to my local dealership for what I assumed would be a warranty job. I dealer service all my trucks while under warranty. Long story short I was told it was a fuel contamination issue which scared the walls of the hpfp throwing metal pieces into the injectors, fouling them.
I would need all new injectors, fuel rails etc. as well as new filter housings, fuel tank cleaning, etc. I had receipts for every drop of fuel put in the vehicle and fought all the way to through the dealership to Ford who sent out a rep and who denied the warranty work. Fortunately my insurance company covered the ordeal and all repairs were completed. I got the truck back and 2 weeks later the truck died on me again. I called the dealership back who supposedly warranted the repairs but there first words were there is no way it is their problem, they would look at it but I have to consent that if they find it is contamination again I am responsible for the repairs which we all know just to diagnose they have to remove the cab etc.
I of course lost my mind and told them this is there issue and there is no way in hell I am that unlucky that I received 2 bad tanks of fuel from 2 different high volume highway side fuel stations in the same 2 months. it is obvious they missed something or there is another issue that was not addressed. They claim there is no way they missed something. I am at a standstill.
As the title says, I have an intermittent issue with the power window in the driver's door. It always works, with the exception of when it gets really damp during the night. In that case when I get in the truck first thing, the window will go down, but not always up the first few tries.
View 1 RepliesWe have a 2004 Ford F250 gas pick up. Went out this morning to start to let it warm up it started and ran for about 10 seconds then died. Almost sounded like a shot going off when it died. Now it is completely dead no lights, no chiming when you put the key in the ignition no nothing. I have tried to jump start it and obviously that didn't work. I also checked the fuses and didn't see anything blown.
View 3 RepliesI normally just troll the existing threads and find what I need, but I am stumped. Just had the HPOP replaced and ran fine for 2 months. Then I started getting a hot no start. So it sat for a couple of days. Then I went to pull it in the shop, it started, I backed up 10 ft and it shut off. I started it back up and it died. I am going to hook it up and figure out my AE software tonight. So question, can an IPR valve get clogged after the fact? Or could it be a bad HPOP?
View 12 RepliesTruck: 1999 Ford Truck F 350 4WD Super Duty V8-7.3L DSL Turbo VIN F
Problem: Especially when it is cold outside . . . The truck takes forever to start and while doing so a ton of white/grey smoke comes out of the exhaust.
My starting schema: Turn the key on have the gas pedal pushed to the floor until the "wait to start" light goes out. Then, I turn the key off and back on while still pressing the gas pedal all the way down. When the "wait to start" light goes out again I remove my foot from the pedal and try to start it. I never leave it cranking for more than 5-7 seconds. If, after trying this process several times I will not push the pedal in at all. Also, sometimes I will leave the pedal pushed in while I am cranking it over.
The truck used to start after a couple of tries but lately it won't start at all, even after 20 tries. Sometimes it will spin up for a second as if the engine gets going but then just doesn't continue running. When it is warm out it will usually start after a few tries but doesn't seem normal to me. After I first bought the truck(used) it would start up within half a second after turning the key.This all started after I had to fix an o-ring that was damaged on the top/back of the motor that was dumping all my oil out of the top/back of the motor.
I don't drive the truck much anymore but over time my MPG has gone to total crap...about 10mpg around town...and that's baby-ing it.
Now it suddenly takes many cranks to finally start on a first start. (cold or warm days)....
On my 1999 F350 SD Crew Cab, 6.8l V10, it will crank, but won't start. I have checked fuel pump fuses and relays, and all are good. I checked the "collision switch" and it is good. I pulled the fuel pump and connected it to the battery and it works, but there is no voltage at the fuel pump connector nearest the fuel pump. I have spoken to a Ford mechanic and he said that if their is voltage from the output of the collision switch, that it must be a wiring problem between the switch and the fuel pump connector, but I have but I have been unable to find a problem. Anything else to try?
View 14 RepliesHad truck engine detailed a couple of months ago. Looked great, ran bad. Plugs were wet. Checked the codes, dried the plugs in the cyls that were missing, started running great. Don't use the truck much. I had left the code reader attached and it ran the battery down. I was away from home, so I had AAA jump it. Let it idle for an hour. Took it for a drive, it ran great. Stopped once and it cranked great, started right up.
Stopped again, but did not shut off the engine, went to take off, it bogged down, no power and stopped. Would not start again (full tank of gas), but cranked really good, and fast. It acted like it was getting just a little fuel, so I think at this point it's a fuel problem. I don't hear the fuel pump come on when I turn on the ignition. I tell the whole story because I am wondering if something under the hood could have gotten wet? I think it's all dried out, but?
My plan is to spray some starting fluid into the intake and see if it starts to confirm that it's fuel. If it is a fuel problem, what then? Is there a fuel relay? I know there is a fuse but I haven't been able to get to it yet (alarm horn bolted above it). The holidays and work of course are putting a damper on my troubleshooting. If I have to pull the tank to change the pump, how do I empty the tank? 99 F250 V10....
I'm having a problem with starting the V10 in my 99 E350 cube van. It refuses to start when cold unless I stick my finger in the idle air control valve and force it shut, or use starting fluid, or a combination of both. Once I do get it started, it will die if I touch the throttle, but once warmed up, it runs fine. I have replaced the IAC, the cylinder head temperature sensor, the fuel filter and fuel pump, and cleaned the MAF. My code reader shows no codes, and like I say once warmed up it will run fine and restart no problem.
View 1 RepliesI've noticed lately that sometimes when I start the truck up that the wipers will cycle once. I do not have the courtesy wipe feature enabled and I'm pretty sure I'm not bumping the wiper/washer button. I like my truck but I've had more weird things go on with this truck than any other I've ever owned, I'm starting to think it's possessed. It's a 2013 F250XL with the 6.2 ....
View 14 RepliesI have replaced my hpop, ipr, icp, stc connector pipe, stand pipe's, and dummy plugs and ficm but i still have a hot no start. I am really getting aggravated...
View 1 RepliesI have 99 f350 single rear wheels 4x4 . I went to start it this morning and it would crank but not start b/c it was cold. I plugged it in and still wouldn't start then it wouldn't even crank. I checked all fuses swapped relays and I have new batteries. The last thing I did was hit on the starter a few times and it started. So I went and bought a new not remand a new starter and put it on and now it won't crank!? I get 12v at the little wire on the selenoid on the fender. So now what?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 F250 with a V10, that won't start or turn over. I replaced the solenoid on the fender well, auto store check the starter 3 times and said it was good, new battery installed and same issue of not starting.
Here is a video of what it does when attempting to start : F250 starting issue - YouTube....
Where and what to look at?
I have an 2007 6.0 that won't start when hot. I'm being told it is the HPOP but I've been told that year does not have a high failure rate for the HPOP. Is this true?
View 1 RepliesMy 6.0 powerstroke will not start at all. I changed the rail fuel filter and the oil and oil filter. All oem for caps and filters. But the fuel filter in the engine bay is stuck. I didn't change the filter and I don't think I put diesel on the o ring to lube it. Could this be why it's not starting. I tried using starting fluid aswell no good
View 2 Replies