Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: No Start - Codes P2285 And P2623 - ICP And IPR?
Aug 29, 2017
My truck was running fine, it's stock as far as I know. Shut it off, it sat and cooled off for a while. When I tried to crank it, it wouldn't start, threw 2 codes. P2285 and p 2623. I unplugged the icp sensoran tried to start, no start. Plugged it back in and it started fine for the rest of the work day ( I work out of it). Drove it the next day without any issues. Today went to start before work and no start with the same 2 codes. What should I check first? I don't have any monitor yet. Bought the truck a month ago as a work truck. It has 164000 miles.
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I have a 2006 F-350. I got a code p2623 ipr circuit open. I ordered a new one and currently waiting on it. I pulled the old one and the screen has been replaced already. How often do these valves go bad? Is there anything else I should check?
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I have been trying to find a new sensor after my truck popped a P2285 code. I can't find ICP sensor at any auto parts store. I found this but it was labeled as a fuel pressure sensor on RockAuto: More Information for Standard Motor Products ICP103... Is this the same thing?
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I have a 2003 f350 v-10 drove it yesterday to get fuel, went to start it after fueling. No start, no lights dash was gauged was acting odd, and clicking under the dash from behind fuse box. did get it to start after a while, put my foot on the brake to go into drive, never made it ... truck died I do have remote start system thought it was that with the brake pedal issue. disconnected complete system. no change. Had it towed, home now no nothing, connect a battery and just clicking from under dash no start ?????? not a battery, won't even jump. The battery is good, power to starter, Posted this also in light-duty trucks wrong place think this is the better place. Gauges pinned to right with key off
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I have a 2006 f-350 6.0 and i went to fill up my truck with diesel. After that the truck did not start. Currently has the code p2285 - injector control pressure sensor circuit low. I tried disconnecting sensor, still no start.
I have the torque pro app and another 6.0 that I use for comparison. Check power at ficm 48 volt, flp 11.5v, FVP 11.5v. Hpop while cranking shows 1400 psi. removed oil filter and see low pressure oil ok, fills up reservoir. ipr at crank about 65%. fuel filter full of fuel.
Replaced the dummy plug on passenger side because originally hpop was very low psi 12. after replacement it went up to 1400 on cranking. What should I be looking at next, should I be removing ipr? should i be looking at crank sensor or cam sensor? Just installed 2 new batteries also because my dad kept cranking the truck until it died.
Checked to make sure fuel cut off relay not triggered, Ok. The truck has been having long cranks before it died. Also right now the injector cycling is 10 seconds long while on my other 6.0 it is about 4.
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2007 F350 6.0 .. I let the truck sit for about a week went out to start it truck cranked right up then died now the truck wont start truck was running fine until this I wasn't having any starting problems. the codes are all eight injectors low circuit tested ficm had 48.3 volts...
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I have a farmer with a 2001 F350 SuperDuty with a 7.3 broke down at his farm a few weeks ago. Asked me to come look at it. No start issue. I use the Matco Determinator in my shop, so I take it with me for starters,after running diagnostics I come up with p0340, p0344,& p1670. After googling these codes I make the determination idm is bad. Farmer agrees to let me try one, install a new BorgWarner unit from O'Reillys, and bam truck fires up. I reinstall inner liner clear codes and go about my way. Few days go by and farmer shows up again, truck run a few miles around farm,spits sputters, and dies again. Go run my checks and same thing. Farmer told me in nthe beginning he had CPS changed per the recall. I had idm replaced under warranty truck fires back up, so this time I drive it , and get bout 2 miles down road truck dies. Had to tow strap back to shop. Got a new cps from ford replaced truck fires up. Farmer takes truck drives for bout a week guess what truck gets towed back. 3 codes are back, along with a few others related to low voltage. This time I replaced idm for a 3rd time, truck fires up. Today I let it idle for 3 hours in lot, decided t test drive, got less than a mile down road, truck shudders chi engine light comes on and it wants to die but keeps running. I am able to get turned around but it dies before I can get back home. Run codes and get same 3.
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What these codes stand for.
- P1316
- P0640
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I have a 99 F450. I have an ABS light on. No codes (at least not that my code reader can pickup), but I am also not having any issues. Brakes work fine. What to swap out or where to look?
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i have p0750 shift solenoid A error and p0733 gear 3 ratio error and i was woundering how i fix them problems
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05 5.4 F250 4x4. Keep getting those codes. Can't find any vacuum leaks. swapped rear O2 sensors. Fuel filter twice in last 11k miles last time was 1k ago. Will the 430 code cause the lean codes from a bad cat? I've been getting the 430 code for at least 4 mo's.
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What would be causing my left and right bank lean codes? Truck still seems to run fine. I have also been getting number 6 misfire. all within the past week. I know Its due for a tune up but would a simple tune up fix these codes. Also besides plugs and primary fluids what else should I be changing. I don't want to be getting to involved just the main stuff.
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2003 f350 2wd 5.4 auto cab and chassis with 40 gal rear tank replaced fuel pump/fuel filter/spark plugs/IAC no codes
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My 2005 f250 5.4 with codes p0171 and p0174. I have replaced fuel filter, MAF, Checked for vac leaks by smoke and water test.
I don't have a way to check fuel pressure on this thing since it must have been to much trouble to put that test port on the fuel rail!!!
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I just bought a 2007 f250 5.4 V8. It has the codes P0018, P061b, and P2106. The truck seems to run fine but has the codes. Tried clearing but they came back. Also, there's a small howl sound in the rear end. What a solution may be.
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I have a 2013 F350 Crew Cab Long bed xl with 128000 miles on it. I just barely bought it from a small dealer and had a check engine light come on for the cats.(P0420 and 0430)
I have spoke with the dealer and he assured me that he would replace the cats. He stated he had O2 sensors replaced and thought he had fixed the problem. Not sure if he replaced all sensors or just the fronts.
He has been avoiding calls lately and will not return my messages. Anyways, My question is what should I be looking for to prevent future cats from going bad. I just ordered a bluetooth OBD 2 scanner and bought the Torque Pro App.
I am not new to working on trucks but they have all been 1995 and older and i am new to anything scanner wise and do not know what I should be monitoring. If I can't get this guy to replace the cats I want to monitor everything to make sure the cats are bad.
BTW, Fuel Mileage is at best 12.3 with an extremely light foot, Driving normal it drops off to about 11.8-12. Is this a normal MPG in these trucks? I have seen post about people getting close to 16 unloaded not smashing throttle?
On another note, I just remembered that my traction control light will come on with no wheel spin at times after starting the truck and driving away.
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I just recently purchased a 2008 ford f350 5.4L gasser, supercab long box. The truck has 167,000km on it. I flew about 700km from my hometown to pick up the truck and drive it home. After driving about 300km I started noticing a few problems.
The engine light codes that have been stored as of now:
P0420 (Catalyst code)
P0420 (Catalyst code)
P0191 (Fuel rail pressure sensor i think?)
The issue I'm having is that the truck has absolutely no power going uphill or accelerating. If I'm climbing a hill and have the gas pedal pushed in at a steady rate its almost as if the transmission wont shift, and if i push harder on the gas the truck begins to shudder. When the truck is cold it runs normal and climbs hills no problem, but once it heats up the problem returns. Another odd thing I noticed under the hood on my drive home was that they disconnected the vacuum line from the fuel rail pressure sensor and simply plugged the line on a random bolt.
Also, the truck apparently has a cam phaser lockout on it and I dont know if that could be causing the issue? Here's a list of some of the troubleshooting ive done so far.
-checked all fuses(start at the basics eh)
-checked resistance of coils(checked out fine, even after engine was warm)
-pulled spark plug 1 and 5, they both seemed fairly clean, not fowled up
-generally looked over all the vacuum lines, seemed fine couldn't see anything else really out of the ordinary
-while the truck was running I used a temperature gauge to see what the exhaust system was doing. On the drivers side when the truck was warm before the cat I had 140C and after the cat it was 80C(good indication the cat is plugged?) The other side tested fairly consistent.
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I have recently picked up a 2005 F350 with the 5.4, which has 212k on it. Has a check engine light on for P0420 and P0430, as well as some kind of a 'ignition coil 'D'', I forgot which code it was as I deleted them at first to see which would come back. After driving it, the P0420 and the P0430 came back, but not the other, yet probably. I'm guessing the misfire due to the ignition coil caused the cats to go bad and the 420/430 codes, unless these codes are coincidental and the cats went due to high mileage.
Either way, I'm pretty sure I will need to replace the cats and was wondering what is the cheapest route. Should I get individual cats and have a shop weld them on? Should I go to Advance Auto parts or Auto Zone and get the whole pipe with the cats attached to them already and then get them installed? I anything will involve welding, I would have to bring it in to a shop. Also, in regards to the ignition coil misfire, what a good way to check which one it is?
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Where to start. Have had to replace a few COP's in the past and replaced all spark plugs 20k ago. Truck runs rough at idle and sometimes stalls when changing gear. Strong exhaust smell when sitting idle. If I put my foot in it there is hesitation. Engine seems to smooth out quite a bit but also seems like it's getting more power in stages. Codes P0426 and P0345 ....
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Ok so my F250 died last night. I read the Pcodes and came up with P2198 and P0506. I am pretty good with fixing the truck but need to know exactly what is wrong.
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For the last few weeks I have noticed my transmission overheating a bit, nothing bad, but I have just been running around town local so no drives over about 15-20 mins.
Well, Friday night I went out to see a friends band play about 40 mins away, My trans temp climbed steadily the whole way out there, peaking at 226 by the time I got out there. I kinda took my time getting home hopping bars to give the trans a break to cool off.
Did some diagnosis today, first thing I did was unhook the line going to the rear of the transmission and did the bucket flow test. I fired it up and fluid came pouring out of the line which goes into the rear of the trans, nothing really came out of the rear of the trans, it was all out of the line.
So that tells me that its getting flow through the coolers. I didn't measure the amount like some do, but I can tell you it looked like a strong steady flow.
I made sure the fluid levels are proper as well which they are, it was maybe a 1 quart low which shouldn't effect anything. I also inspected the coolers and everything appears to be clean with no airflow restrictions. Took it out for a brief drive again and it climbed up to 147, maybe 5 miles out 5 miles back. Ambient temp is 62 today.
I am getting multiple codes on my Edge Evo which I have had set to stock settings since I bought the truck. Codes I get that concern me relevant to the trans are P0741 and P0743. Both seem to relate to the torque converter.
I feel like my RPMs are a bit to high at highways speeds so I am wondering if I have a TC that is slipping a bit while driving. I did notice a bit of a metallic pearl in the fluid that came out. Aside from that I feel like the trans is shifting ok, though sometimes I have to let off the gas to get it to shift into 4th.
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