Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: No Power To OBD Port
Jan 4, 2016
I posted this in the 6.0 section, but I thought maybe it should have been here since it's not really about the engine.
I bought a Kiwi2 BT OBD adapter and the Torque Pro app. Adapter does not power up when connected, key on or off.
Checked fuse #12 visually, looked good.
Verified power to booth the lighter plug and 12v accessory outlet.
Verified that the fuse I was pulling killed to lighter plug when I removed it.
I have not actually put a meter on the OBD pin because I am at work and have no meter. I did, however, connect the adapter to a co-worker's Tacoma and it powered up and I was able to pair it with my phone.
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I have a 03 F-250, 5,4L / AT trans, FX4 4X4 with power Windows/Locks/ Mirrors. I recently had a problem with my windows and radio wouldn't work. When I would start the truck the windows wouldn't move and the radio wouldn't work. (Noticed the clock wouldn't even light up indicating no power). I was reading on here about the battery saver relay could be the problem and found out it was, so that is fixed. However, before I found this website I went to hook up my truck to my code reader/ diagnostic computer and it gave me the error code of no power from the OBD-II port. I made sure everything was fine on the code readers side by using on a different vehicle. I recently installed a trailer brake controller but that uses a cable/plug under the center of the dash.
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As luck would have it I'm leaving out in the morn for 600 miles , Noticed a nail in my L/F tire yesterday went too Goodyear they pilled the tire patched it inside.. Then this morn went to fuel up my ABS light stayed on .. Did this last yr. went off after a few days but since the tire was pulled maybe its a bad connection ??? ..Jut want to be sure and scan codes
I want to scan it now to check and reset any codes But looked under the Drivers side dash can not find the OBD connection port looked on Passenger side nothing there either.. Looked under hood around fuse box did not see anything that kind of looked like a port with a cap I'd assume they cap them if under the hood .. Its a 05 S/D 6.0 locate this OBD11 port
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So I just bought a 2003 f250 v10 and I've plugged in my code reader and it couldn't get any info, so I took it to auto zone and they got an error code. I took a test lite to each little connection on the port with the ignition on and only got power to some of the metal connections on the port. So I'm wondering if all the little connections should have power? If so where should I start to look to find the problem?
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Am i correct in starting to look into why I can't hook a scanner or Torque Pro bluetooth up to my truck and starting with blown Cig lighter fuse? (Cig lighter doesnt work, power port does)
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So I had an issue with the trans temp sender leaking out of the test port where it's installed. My first clue was a smell of ATF, then a high trans temp, and finally many, many spots on the driveway. Anyway, I discovered that either I lost the o-ring for the sender or it didn't come with one. Regardless, I got an o-ring and its sealed for the most part. There is still a drop or two under the truck after it has been running. How can I fully get rid of this issue? Would some RTV thread sealer do the trick?
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Wife took truck out and turned around after going less then a mile, saying it was running very bad. We got this truck about two months ago at a state vehicle auction. It was a state used truck, 145,000 miles, 05 Ford F350, ext cab and 8' bed. Anyway at first I thought it was valve tap until research said an exhaust manifold. With a fog machine in rear exhaust pipe we confirmed it was leaking and replaced the exhaust manifold. Figured it was probably a good time to replace spark plugs too. Took truck for a ride and she still buck and farted.
Got a code machine and got P0171 and P0174. Couldn't find a vacuum leak, but your could hear the air being sucked in. went to local parts store, guys couldn't find leak, but they said truck sounded like a steam machine. today I made a homemade smoke machine and smoke came from air intake, figured the gaskets were bad. The pictures show what I saw when I took the gaskets off. The port that has melted is the same port were the exhaust manifold was leaking from. Am in deep "doo-doo". What caused this?
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I like to keep my GPS in the tray on top of the dash, mounted on a sandbag-type mount. I want to hardwire the power (I already know how to do this at the fuse panel) but need to find a way to have the power cable through the tray. Any cool ideas other than drilling a hole and using a rubber grommet to clean up the pass through?
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Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.
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I have a 2004 F250 Super duty that had a battery die (I left the keys in the ignition switched on overnight) and after jumping the battery off the vehicle started up but now I have no power door lock or window functions. Any reason a dead battery issue might affect the power locks and windows?
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Yesterday wife left driveway and about a block away she phone truck "died". It actually starts and the engine is fine - shifting from park to reverse or any gear seems to have no effect. After tow home - i check and there are no codes (using ODBII scanner), the tranny fluid seems full and red. Looking carefully there is a slight rpm drop when idle into reverse or a gear other than neutral or park... but revving engine in any gear doesn't move the truck.
Is there anything else i should check before taking to a tranny shop? Its a 230k mile workhorse for the house but not critical if its down for a week or two. I have had it for 10 years and put the last 40k miles on it. Is there any diagnostic suggested given the symptoms?
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I've got an issue...
Symptoms:
1. Sudden slip feeling(like you just hit a small patch of black ice while powering up a hill.)
2. Turbo Pressure still spun up.(According to gauge)
3. Backfiring out of the airbox. (Sounds like a flat tire)
4. Lose a bunch of power. (Feels like a car running on 6 out of 8 cylinders)
Only happens at mid-throttle, during a long uphill run while towing. Doesn't happen when not towing or first thing out of gate when engine is cool. No problems going downhill either.
Situation: Towing a 10k pound 5'er, to Yosemite, I would get this random sudden lose of power, that accompanies a series of backfires out of the airbox during a long steady uphill drive.
Truck has 161k miles on it. Fluids are all brand new. I didn't see any smoke coming from the tail pipe, like turbo was done and letting oil into the engine. Oh also, no check engine lights.
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I have my observation camera wired into upfitter number four. When I flip the switch on, the light in the end of it lights up, but I'm not getting any power to the monitor. I put a volt meter to the end of its cable and it is dead.
Is there an individual fuse for the upfitter or something I can check to get back up and running? I had the switch wired three years ago and it has worked without fail since.
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So I have a no start on my 6.0. I was driving and went to accelerate and had no power, pulled off of the road and was idling rough, I checked for fuel leaks-none. I put it in drive and engine cut off and wouldn't start again, changed the ICP (threw a code) still nothing, FICM is good, ICP is 950 psi at cranking, IPR is only at 54%. I'm at a loss of what to do next besides looking at the IPR, and I do not have the equipment for a leak test.
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I have a 2006 f350 4x4 dually 6.0. The other morning when leaving for work I hard a loud air noise, like a jet. It only happens when the motor is trying to create boost. I have NO boost. No smoke. If I push the fuel pedal past 1/4, nothing. Its like its stuck and no more power at all. I have changed the boot from the turbo to the intercooler pipe. (looked like it had cracks in it).
Checked the cold pipe, no cracks seen. Check the exhaust clamps, into the turbo, they are tight. The turbo is seeping oil around the seal. I took the inlet, fresh air, pipe off. Check the turbo spool for looseness, fins, spun the wheel, ran the engine and watch to wheel. Seen no issues. Where to go now?? No coolant leaks, no oil leaks.
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I have a 2006 Ford F250 super duty with the 5.4 liter gasoline engine. I started on a 120 mile trip last week and got about mile from home when it just shut down. I walked back home and got the wife's Tahoe and pulled it back home.
I got it in the shop and started to try & figure what had happened. I'm not a mechanic but I am a fair DIYer so I spent a lot of time with my friend GOOGLE. I originally expected the problem to be the fuel pump. I could not check fuel pressure because this model does not have the port in order to hook up the fuel pressure gauge. I could hear the pump run when the ignition was turned on so I looked a little deeper. I checked that it was firing and even shot some starting fluid into the breather to see if it would run with that, which it did.
At this point I turned back to the fuel supply. I learned from google that the injectors were supposed to have a constant 12 volts so out came the meter and low and behold no voltage on any of the injectors. I had already checked EVERY fuse on the truck and didn't find any burnt ones. I took the meter and rechecked all that had anything to do with the PCM (by reading the fuse description from the owners manual). My old eyes had actually missed the burnt one. Number 23 a 30 amp fuse. I replaced it and it immediately blew also.
I started checking continuity to ground on the injector plugs and found that I had a direct short to ground. I needed a wiring diagram for the injector circuit. I searched and searched some more for one that matched my vehicle. I even bought a repair manual from my local Auto Zone. This book didn't even have the diagram I needed! I finally found a diagram From Auto Zone's website for a 2000 expedition.
It at least gave me an idea of what other items were powered by this same circuit. I learned that the 02 sensors are on the same circuit so I crawled under the truck & started searching. I found that the up stream 02 sensor on bank 2 had gotten against the exhaust and created the short. I unplugged it and rechecked continuity to ground and found that my shot was no longer there. I took the sensor out repaired the burnt wire and reinstalled. I hooked everything back up and the ole truck fired right up.
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We have a 99 F250 193,000 miles with a 5.4 and a 5 speed manual with 3:73 gears and we tow a camper that weighs empty 6700 lbs. I knew something was off when we were bringing it home, there was no real umph in the motor. It wouldn't get past 55 in 5th gear on the express way, and just felt as though it was gonna blow up. Its a new to us truck and on paper it should tow this easily. We have a couple of trips under our belt now, and nothing has really changed. With gear and goodies I dont think we're even talking 7500 lbs. I like the truck, and don't really want to get rid of it. With in reason what should I expect to be able to tow and what can I do to better the situation.
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When the key is switched to the accessory position, none of the things that are supposed to work in accy do. It's been like that ever since I bought the truck, but I never gave it much thought. Other than look for bad wiring, I really haven't tried anything. Where should I start?
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I just bought a 2000 Super Duty last week When I looked at it and test drove it, the doors unlocked with the fob. Then I bought it and the doors would not unlock with the fob. A day later, they would not unlock with the door controller. I can hear them clicking and see them move slightly. Where to start checking?
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My power window on the driver side works. But tops at 3/4 way down. Ivan repulse the button several times to get it all the way down and occasionally it will work on the auto down. But rarely. What's wrong. Probably switch. .. ..
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I've changed my knock sensor, my o2 sensor, fuel filter, air filter, alternator, and cut out my cat. Still can't figure out why my truck has no power?
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