Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: No Power In Accessory Position
May 7, 2015
When the key is switched to the accessory position, none of the things that are supposed to work in accy do. It's been like that ever since I bought the truck, but I never gave it much thought. Other than look for bad wiring, I really haven't tried anything. Where should I start?
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2015 F250 diesel. I am hooking up an air pressure gauge inside the cab to report the pressure on my rear aftermarket air bags. The pressure reading will come from a tap on the actual pressure line, but I need 12vdc to operate the backlight on the gauge. I have found a bundle of loose wires under the steering column, 4 of which are firewall pass-through wires for the upfitter switches. Do one of the remaining wires in the bundle is an accessory power wire? I need a plain key-on accessory wire connection, not a dash-light connection.
I am using one of the upfitter switches to switch my on-board air compressor and a second switch to inflate/deflate the air bags. Want to save the other 2 switches for future use.
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Its a 2016 F-250, 6.2L gas truck with the electronic shift on the fly transfer case.
I have put right at 22,000 miles on it like this, frequently at 70-80 mph.
What are the odds I have damaged it and is there anything I should do now that I discovered it - other than put them both in "AUTO".
Truck has been to the dealer twice and not once was this noticed. They blamed the squealing on the brakes which I knew it wasn't.
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My truck has developed a wobble in the steering wheel. I don't mean when you are driving down the road, but the steering wheel wobbles around. It wobbles in any position that the Till shaft is set to. How to repair.
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05 F250 FX4
Gear position needle (little orange line for an automatic) isn't working. It stays in the 1st gear position.
Tired of counting the "clicks" to know which gear I am in. How hard is this to fix?
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I have an '03 F250 and the second position of the blower switch doesn't work. The first, third, and fourth are all fine.
I bought a Motorcraft YH-1670 blower switch, but can't figure out where it's located?
I looked behind the glove box, but didn't see it there. I did not remove the screws to the cover behind the glove box because I wanted to first confirm where the switch is located.
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Seems like a real problem and not just emissions related. The truck seems to run fine; no abnormal vibration.
Seeing the dealer on wednesday and was supposed to leave for a 2 month trip on sunday.
Bad to go sunday anyway and wait for a dealer on the road?
How likely is it that the dealer will have this fixed on wednesday same day?
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2009 F250 lariat. While driving down the highway my wipers came on when stalk was in the off position. They would not shut off. Had to remove the relay to get them to shut off. Also, during middle of a sunny day the headlights would temporarily come on and shut off when it was in the automatic position. They would not come on if I put it in the off position though. Since both the wipers and high beams are part of the multifunction switch is it likely that the switch has gone bad vs. a more major issue with the computers. No other issues identified.
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I have a 1999 f250 crew cab. About 6 months ago my drivers side window quit working in the up position(lucky me) and last week I got around to fixing it . I just ordered a new window motor instead of the whole regulator and installed it and it worked perfect for 4 days and today it suddenly quit again. What would cause a window motor to go out again so quick? Everything else seems to be fine and there is power to it so I'm assuming it's the motor.
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I'm getting a random 'no start' fault which I think is related to a clutch position switch. The dealer tells me the clutch pivot bushing and master cylinder push rod are worn out, which is causing the switch not to close when the clutch pedal is depressed.
1993 F-350 7.3L Diesel 5 Spd 4x4, Std Cab, 8 Box.
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I have a 2008 f250 with 6.4. Was sitting my truck with key on and motor off listening to radio on lunch and my wipers came on by themselves. Switch was in off position and we're in slow speed. If I turn switch they wouldn't change speed til high position. Turned key off and back on and they came on still. Pulled 30 amp fuse in battery junction box to shut them off.
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On my class C motor home, 1999 with V10 engine when I turn the ignition key to the start position I get absolute silence, when I release the key and turn it to the start position again it always starts. I have fitted a new starter motor, new solenoid and new battery but still the problem persists. I'm scared that one time it will not crank over on the second attempt.
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I have a problem with an 2000 F250 7.3 6spd. Recently, the "key in the ignition" chime kept dinging even when no key was in the ignition. I read in the forums that a wire can be disconnected to stop the chime. The problem is that after I re-install the cylinder lock, I cannot move the key to the off position to remove the key. I can rotate it to start and run, but it won't move backwards to the off or acc position.
The truck has this little lever that normally needs to be pushed to allow key to be released, but even after pushing that, turning the steering wheel back and forth, and messing with the tilt, I still can't get the key into the off position. I have removed the cylinder and it looks good. It rotates properly and I can remove the key, but only when it isn't installed. I tried replacing the ignition switch, but the lock cylinder still doesn't move.
I have an 04 F250 that I've tried swapping the lock cylinders from the 04 to the 00, but it still doesn't turn. What might be the cause/fix? Also, the 2000 F250 has a intermittent chirping/squeaking sound under the dash that happens even when the batteries are disconnected - might this be a malfunctioning vacuum motor? It happens even though the truck hasn't been driven for a week.
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2015 F250 and I'd like to have the wipers stop a little higher on the windshield causing the ice build up. Previous trucks I could pop the wipers off and rotate them and put back on. These are keyed so I can't. Any trick?
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While I was trying to park, I heard a clunk, wheels stayed in the same position. The steering wheel is loose as hell, it literally feels like its buttered up and wont turn the wheels at all, what to buy to fix it? I am thinking I just need a new gearbox....
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My son has a 2003 Super Duty with auto locks, but the front wheels won't lock even when turn to locked position. Also when it's in two wheel drive the front drive shaft and axles still spin, are the hubs locked up or is it in the transfer case?
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I got an f-350 drw it is sluggish on take off feels like a miss. Higher speeds when you step on it. It seems o.k I have been told it could be a crank shaft positioning sensor any in put on this. I have changed the fuel filters, cleaned the e.g.r. valve and yes it was pretty clogged,air filter seems to be good. And 1 last thing for now where would c.s.p.s. be located...
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Recently on two occasions I pressed the accelerator clear to the floor with no response. After shifting into Park then back into Drive it drove normally for about a week. Now it has stalled out and was very stubborn to restart. Once running, the accelerator will sluggishly rev the engine while in Park, but in Drive, will not respond. TPS sensor or something else?
2004 6.0 Diesel, 75K miles, no mods, well maintained.
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We got a ton of snow dumped on us today and for some reason my 4WD has decided not to work this year. I have a 2000 F250 4WD Triton V10. The hubs click into the lock position and the dial on the dash lights up 4x4 but I am definitively not engaging into 4WD. I'm pissed because this is specifically the reason i bought a 4WD and it's failing me. I can't find a fuse panel diagram to save my life however all the fuses in the interior of truck look to be fine.
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I have a 2001 F250 HD gas engine. I have had this truck since 2010. I drive it only occasionally and had not driven it in a few weeks so decided to drive it the other day. I drove about 30 minutes with about half of that on the interstate. It was a fairly hot day mid 80s and I had the AC running. I parked it at a very slight forward downhill position. When I came out after 45 minutes, I saw a puddle of antifreeze in front of the vehicle. When I looked underneath the truck it was primarily dripping from the oil filter canister but also from a couple of other places. I was down about 4 inches in the reservoir. My small truck camper is on the vehicle and I had my coolant container in there.
I topped it off and traveled about 10 minutes on surface streets to my next stop.After about two hours there I came out to the truck to leave and there was not a drop. I then drove 25 minutes home with a little on the interstate running the AC and when I got home not a drop. I got up underneath it and looked all around and couldn't really see an obvious source. My neighbor is a mechanic of sorts and I asked him about it. He had a couple of theories but one involved the heater. He said to crank it up, let it warm up, and turn the heat on and see if I smelled anti-freeze. I did that and there was not a smell at all. He also said something about a cold leak.
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I like to keep my GPS in the tray on top of the dash, mounted on a sandbag-type mount. I want to hardwire the power (I already know how to do this at the fuse panel) but need to find a way to have the power cable through the tray. Any cool ideas other than drilling a hole and using a rubber grommet to clean up the pass through?
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