Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: No Power Coming Into Dash Engagement Switch
Jan 3, 2015
It is a 99 F350 diesel automatic. T- case motor is good. Relays are new. All fuses are good. I have no power coming into the dash engagement switch. Bought this pickup for a backup farm truck and need the 4x4 to work.
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I have a 2001 f250 7.3 powerstroke it is an automatic. It has the switch on the dash to engage the 4 wheel drive. When I turn the switch nothing happens.. no lights come on or anything. it has warren locking hubs. What my problem is???
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Ok I am getting a (6R140) transmission behaviour every morning drive or later in the day after the transmission cools down. I am experiencing a 2-3 second delay of engagement when putting truck in Reverse. This happens EVERY time whether transmission is cold or warmed up. I am also having very hard/harsh shift fares going into 3rd gear and 5th gear with the 3rd gear being the worse of the two. Also experiencing these hard/harsh shift when downshifting as well.
I took the truck to my local dealer and I let it sit over night in their lot so they could experience it at its worst after sitting all night. They definitely recognized the issue. But since it wasn't throwing and codes. I find this an unacceptable answer.
I brought to their attention that this issue is well documented online and a lot are having success with performing TSB 11-7-10 (replacing solenoids) They looked it up and said my truck doesn't apply to TSB because of the build date. My window sticker and VIN # implies the truck was built 10-11-2010. Which from my understanding, does fall under the required TSB. None the less, I insisted that I know I'm out of warranty and I will just pay to have this TSB performed. They refused.
What should I do? I know everyday I run my truck with this issue it is decreasing the reliability of this transmission and it will most likely end with a full transmission replacement.
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2000 6.8 v10 F250 supper duty crew cab. 4x4 high switch's on (manual lock hubs installed) but 4x4 low will not engage. Brake input/out put tested good. Trans switch Park/"N" both test good. PCM reads switch output in all modes, (dash 4x4 selector). The only other issue I am having is the Vacuum is bad ( defrost default no blend door operation). Would vacuum loss prevent 4x4 lo range engagement (with manual hubs ) or should I go to the solenoid, relays on the case/ right fender?
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Should the indicator above reads "4x2, 4x4 hi, 4x4 low" light up when the driving lights (i.e. at night) switch is on?
If yes, how to change the light bulb?
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I've checked the fuses, the lights are on on the switches, but I have no power at the wires under the hood. I'm adding lights and would like to use those switches..
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I'm having an electrical issue that is driving me nuts. I have an '01 F-250 Super Duty that I just put a new battery in today. The truck normally runs great, I drive it to work everyday with no issues. Today, there is a noise coming from under the dash that sounds like the turn signal flasher, and the clock on my radio flashes in time with the noise from under the dash. All my lights are working ok, and all the idiot lights come on as usual when I put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position. However, my truck won't start. It won't even turn over. I get nothing but a dead switch when I turn it to the start position. The starter solenoid doesn't even click. Like I said, yesterday everything was just fine. I knew my battery was going bad (6 years old), so I changed it.
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I have a 2003 Ford F450 super duty xl. At first there was a loud clicking sound coming from under my dash. I charged the battery up and the sound went away but the truck will fire up but not turn over and start. I thought maybe it could be the relays but the clicking sound quit.
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I did a search and flipped thru the owners manual without any luck. But my 99 Super Duty is equipped with a rear power sliding window but I can't find the dang switch anywhere. Where is it supposed to be located...
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Am I the only one who thinks the tire pressure monitoring system is a silly feature? Is there any way to delete this and stop the light from coming up on the dash? I want to do new wheels and tires on my 2008 f250 and I don't want to deal with the tpms. Can it be tuned out from the computer?
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2015 F250 diesel. I am hooking up an air pressure gauge inside the cab to report the pressure on my rear aftermarket air bags. The pressure reading will come from a tap on the actual pressure line, but I need 12vdc to operate the backlight on the gauge. I have found a bundle of loose wires under the steering column, 4 of which are firewall pass-through wires for the upfitter switches. Do one of the remaining wires in the bundle is an accessory power wire? I need a plain key-on accessory wire connection, not a dash-light connection.
I am using one of the upfitter switches to switch my on-board air compressor and a second switch to inflate/deflate the air bags. Want to save the other 2 switches for future use.
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I have a 2010 F250 and wanted to power a dash camera using the upfitter switches. I purchased a 12volt wire, but am unsure on where to wire it so that it will only power up when the ignition is on..
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I have a 2007 6.0 with 260k on it losing gauges and radio intermittently while driving. Lately 2-3 times a day, lasting 3-4 seconds a time.
I have heard it could be the shift lever, instrument cluster, fuses, etc. I have kind of ruled out fuses based on the behavior of the failure.
Looking for a second opinion before I start taking the dash apart or send it in. The truck just can't be down for a long time right now.
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When I position the switch into 4x4 High or 4x4 Low the dash lights do not come on. Also, I have a vacuum leak at both hubs.
I tested the vacuum lines from the ESOF solenoid (or whatever it's called, the box on the fender where the vacuum lines originate) and I don't have any leaks in the lines. I put the Mighty Vac straight to the back of the hubs and I definitely have leaks at both hubs.
So, why am I not getting the light on the dash, and why do I have leaks at the hubs? FWIW, I replaced both wheel hub assemblies in March, and everything worked fine at that time. I'm hoping the yellow o-rings are still good. Is there a chance I lost torque on the four bolts behind the hubs causing a failed seal? Is there a seal on the outside of the hubs that could've failed?
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My Uncle has a 1999 F250 with 260K miles. Engine, fuel and exhaust systems have never been touched. Saturday he pulled his 26 foot horse trailer throughout WA with no problems. Sunday he went to take the truck to town and noticed that he suddenly had a lack of power, and some smoke (possibly blue-ish) coming from the exhaust. He has been told "injectors" by a couple people, "turbo" by some, and "injector harness/valve cover gasket" by others.
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Seems like my truck won't move at 4x4 when getting into and out of parkings. Combination of low speed and turning feels like I am fighting the truck and need to apply more power to get it moving and then there are strange noises.
Is this normal behavior from 4x4 system? I think it is but just want to make sure that constant switching between 4x4 and 2x4 is normal. I was just to AWD cars before that.
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My truck was involved in an accident and required a replacement front axle be installed due to damage to the housing. The truck was in four wheel drive when my wife got T-boned and drove up over the median twice to avoid a head on. The shop that did the insurance work said they replace the axle with a low mileage used unit, but since then the hub switches aren't working correctly.
I have taken it to them 4+ times to look at the issue and I keep telling them that the driver's side hub switch won't release, but I keep getting it back with the same problem. The most recent fix they came up with was to replace switches and electrical components. I am thinking that a vacuum leak in the hub may be to blame. I am taking the truck back to them again this afternoon as the 1 year warranty on the repairs is up next week.
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2005 Ford F250 5.4 ... Having problems with ignition switch or bus bar in that circuit being bad?
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where do the wires from the cabin aux switches end up? Are any pre wired to outside of the cab (past the firewall?).
i was wanting to install a better back up light on an aux switch but don't want to deal with running thru firewall, etc.
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I got a new headlamp switch for my 2016 SD. I have the XL work truck with no fog lights. I recently added fog lights and an OEM fog light wire harness. I also got an OEM switch that pulls out to activate the fig lights because the stock switch in my truck operates the headlamps only. What I can't figure out is how to remove the switch.
Here's a photo of the new switch .....
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As I pulled in to park I slid only 3 or 4 inches and just kissed a snow bank, didn't even think anything of it. An hour later truck wouldn't start until I reset the inertia switch. Man that thing is sensitive!
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