Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: No Movement From Steering Wheel / Pulsating Bounce In Rear End
Oct 29, 2015
I've been chasing this for longer then i can remember. At 40-45mph the rear end feels like its bouncing. no movement from the steering wheel, just a pulsating bounce. Little information about the truck: Has had Napa Gold shocks, Bilstein 5100s and currently Monroe reflex shocks. Installed readylift 4inch rear block kit about 2 years ago. Had 16x9 rims, currently has factory 16x6.5. Tires are 285/75s. New pads rotors and calipers. It's just driving me nuts to have it bounce all the time.
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I have a 2005 F250 6.0.. I'm the third owner, only 146,000 miles on it. Had most of the front end replaced. Ball joints, tie rod ends, track bar bushing, front end alignment done...
Still likes to walk as I call it side to side while driving down the road. Factory size tires, factory rims. A little excessive movement in steering wheel while driving, side to side and not transferring to pitmen arm. So I think the gear box shot. Got to looking closer and the power steering box has a re-manufactured sticker on it, so thought about rebuilding it. I do not know where previous owner got gear box at.
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I have a 2008 F250 5.4 4x4 supercab long box (68,000 miles) that has a little bit of movement in the front wheel bearing and hub assemblies. Made it through inspection OK but it will need to be changed soon. Just asking for everyone's thoughts on brands they prefer. I have had great luck with Moog brand products in the past. I put SKF hubs on my wife's 2010 Explorer and they I would say are top quality also. Not interested in a conversion kit or cheap junk. I want a good quality unit. What brand has everyone had good results with? Are Moog or SKF the way to go?
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I recently bought a 2006 F250 Super Duty, 4X4, 6 liter diesel. My issue is that I have an annoying vibration/bounce between 45 and 50 mph. I thought it may have been a tire out of balance, but even after replacing all 4 tires and rear brake pads the vibration is still there.
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With my A/C turned up on max A/C and fan speed set on highest setting, I get very little air movement through the air vents. I have been told that starting with 2000 year models, there is a filter on the A/C fan motor. If this is true, I am sure mine needs to be changed. Looking for procedure/schematics for removal and change.
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Test drove an 08 V10 today. Brakes seemed to work fine and didn't lock up but I felt no pulsating in the pedal and heard no chirping of the tires like most ABS systems do. Is this normal? Anything special to look for in used late model V10s?
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My tachometer hangs out around the 600 RPM spot when I first start my truck, but lately it will end up dropping to zero when idling, and then bounce up to about the 200 RPM point when accelerating. Its not the Cam Positioning Sensor (I had that happen with my 99 7.3) and this truck runs great. I am thinking it could be at the tach.
Question is: Where does the Tachometer signal generate and does the PCM do anything with it before it sends the signal to the Tachometer? The reason for focusing on the Tach is since the engine runs and idles fine, then that tells me the PCM is receiving the correct signal from the engine and making changes accordingly. I read about a 5.4 gas engine with rain issues, but the only issues going on here is extreme cold (tonight, -15). I keep the truck garaged and when I go out, it is for purpose and then return home to a heated garage.
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the mechanism that locks the steering wheel is stuck. not the ignition key cylinder (already removed that). how do I release that mechanism to free the steering wheel.
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I have a 2003 F250 with the 5.4 and I believe I am having a fuel delivery issue. I took out yesterday and stopped to get a drink at the gas station, came back out and the truck wouldn't start long enough to idle. It would start, barely bounce off zero rpms and die out. I checked the fuel interia switch and it was down. I tried turning the key back and forth thinking it might reset the fuel pump or something and that didnt work. I get the truck towed home and couldn't get it to start last night. I go out this morning and it starts, come home from work and now it won't. This happened about 2 years ago and I never did anything about it, but it took 2 years for it to happen again.
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Seems that after a sharp right turn, for instance turning right at a stop sign I'll get a loud pop that I can feel in the floor pan under my feet.
After the pop the steering wheel and whole front of the truck will shift left and right like someone is grabbing the wheel, sometimes violently. If I drive slowly it will cure itself and sometimes not do it again for several days. I've check ball joints and hubs and they are in great shape. I pulled the hubs and greased the needle bearings about 6 months ago. I checked all steering components and the linkage that attached to the steering arm had some play so I replaced it. Then I found that some idiot took the steel sleeve out of the bushing in one end of the steering stabilizer. I bought a new stabilizer and cured a pop I'd had since I got the truck, but the other issues were not solved.
Alignment has been checked too.
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My truck has developed a wobble in the steering wheel. I don't mean when you are driving down the road, but the steering wheel wobbles around. It wobbles in any position that the Till shaft is set to. How to repair.
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just bought this f250 seems to walk on the road alot, had it looked at has new balljoints, he says everything seems tight except there is lots of play at the gearbox, is it recommended to have it rebuilt or buy a reman, was told that even the reman seems to be the same way
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The steering wheel is locked on my 99 F-350. I messed around with the stupid thing for quite a while this evening and it won't budge! I need it to haul hay tomorrow....
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Should there be any play on the backside offront hubs (knuckle)? When I grab the knuckle where the sticker is theres alittle bit of wiggle/play especially on left side, little less on right. The truck is 2009 and has only 11,000 miles on it.
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06 F250 6.0 CCSB 4x4 163K Truck was in a pass side wreck about three weeks ago. Aside from bumper, head light, etc I had to replace the track bar and then I had the alignment done. Mech said the steering was loose and was either the steering box or column.
PROBLEM: Truck drove and parked fine last night, I went to leave the driveway this morning and I had to turn the wheel full right while backing up. The wheel locked up and wouldn't turn back to the left to straighten out. Hood wouldn't pop either to check anything
I crawled under the truck, the belt was in place and I didn't see any power steering fluid leaking. Thinking it was a PS problem and the hood not opening, I basically floored it and yanked on the wheel and it broke loose. Also, for what ever reason the hood opened after that
Now the steering is heavy and the wheel doesn't center on it's own. It will stay turned when I let go of the wheel. Scared that it would happen I didn't try turning it full lock on the way to work. but it happened again exiting the parking lot, again full right lock and the wheel stuck.
I managed to yank the wheel to the left again and I heard a distinct pop from what I'm sure was the pass side wheel area.
The PS fluid is dark and I'll figure out how to change it. I've read issues from the U-joints, ball joints, Steering box, steering stabilizer, and failing PS pump could all lead to this. Being the truck had a pass side fender bender, and I'm pretty sure the pop sound came from the pass side how do I check all of these items.
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So I just got my 2014, upgraded from a 2007, and one change that is bugging me is the steering wheel controls for the radio. In the old truck clicking the scan up/down buttons scanned to the next radio station, in the new truck it scans through the preset radio stations. I really don't like that. Can it be changed or am I stuck with it?
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Ordered a 2015 f350 CCLB FX4 XLT 6.2 about 2 weeks ago.Tried to see if the control buttons on the steering wheel were lighted couldnt tell in the daylight.
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This is probably a strange request but I did just get a 2011 F250 XL. The SYNC and audio controls on the steering wheel was an available option, but my truck does not have it. I didn't ask for it to be required in the vehicle search, just one of those "if it has it, awesome" things. I am looking to add the buttons to control the radio and MAYBE SYNC for the bluetooth feature if this is possible.
I know to add SYNC I need a radio that's ready for it, which mine is, and a microphone somewhere and all of that so that's not to be done until a later date. My old F150 had the radio controls on the wheel and I miss that. Can I add the radio controls on the wheel? And maybe SYNC without needing to add a Parrot device for bluetooth? Or am I SOL on both?
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Yesterday while traveling about 30mph and starting into a slight left turn the steering wheel locked, when the brake pedal was applied it was rock hard and would not engage braking resulting in a single vehicle crash, no injuries. 8300 miles...
How would I make Ford aware of this incident and get them involved? Is it likely that such events may have been logged somehow in the computer? The truck is at our collision repair shop waiting for an insurance adjuster to inspect.
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How many rounds can you turn your steering wheel each way? Mine goes not quite 2 rounds, I think it's been limited.
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Today I put a new shifter tube in a 02 f450. Everything works well, but the key won't come out and the steering wheel won't lock. Was told there is a button to push by the turn signal side but don't see any. Looked around top and bottom of column and didn't see anything out of place. Also found a black wire with a pink strip not connected to anything. Touched the wire to the column and key dinger sounded. Where should this wire be connected?
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