Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: No Startup / Won't Even Turn Over
Nov 29, 2015
My F-350 has developed a new problem. It wont start. It wont even turn over. All Electricity is on, glow plugs glow, gauges work, lights work, but when you turn the key to the start position noting happens. Some of the indicators go dark.
I even tried a jump thinking my batteries no longer handle the load. Same results. I suppose I can remove the batteries and take them in for testing. In fact, I'll probably do that now.
2002 F-350 Superduty, 7.3 Ltr, Turbocharged. 260000+ miles.
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Per the instructions I used upfitter #4 and a 21k resistor. High idle works, slight delay and gradual ramp up to 1150 rpm, but why does the wiper turn on for just one wipe now at startup?
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I have a 99 F-250 SD 4X4 7.3 with about 160,000 miles and still running strong. I haven't been able to troubleshoot a strange clicking noise during the Glow plug / pre start warm-up process. It seems like the noise is coming from a vacuum "relay/ actuator" ( I think that's what the part is) under the hood on the passenger's side. But again I am not a Ford mechanic, nor have I owned this complex of a truck before.
There seem to be two different vacuum terminals that both have two outlets that attach to vacuum hosing. The unit does not have a line ( or 2 ) connected to the innermost vacuum outlet. Does this need to be connected? If I put my fingers on the units outlets to restrict the noise becomes more high-pitched, then will cease to make the clicking sound sooner than if I didn't cover the outlets.
I'm unsure on the process on how to insert a photo. it's asking for a URL, does this mean I need a flickr photo account to transfer the photo? Can I just upload a JPG?
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The last couple of weeks a new clunk has appeared on my F350, 6.2 CC LB FX4. If I've been parked for a while, when I drive off, within the first 30 yards or so there's a clunk. Seems worse when I've turned sharply out of a parking spot. Sounds like the rear diff or drivetrain... I have a locking rear diff. Is this engaged or disengaged while "at rest"? Could it be that its slow to unlock when I start?
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I just picked up my first truck ever yesterday, a 2012 F250 crew 4x4 with the 6.2L gas engine. It seems to me, when the engine is cold, that it raps or knocks for a second or two immediately after startup...is this characteristic? The truck is a 'new-leftover' model with about 28 miles on it so far. When warm, or even semi-warm, the engine starts right up and sounds like a healthy american V8.
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A little background. I bought the 2008 F250 XL, 5.4L with 145,000 miles in December. It had a bad engine (dropped valve). I had the engine replaced with a remanufactured one (Performance Products) and started driving it this month. To date, I have put about 700 miles on it with an oil/filter change at 500.
So, here is the newest problem. Yesterday I finished changing my body mount bushings (with Daystar polyurethane ones) and went for a test drive. When I started the engine, a smoke cloud caught my eye. I took a closer look and noticed it was a gray smoke. I jumped out and ran around to smell the smoke - it had a gas smell. I did not test for smoke after my test drive.
So here is my question. It is obviously burning excess fuel on startup. That would mean that one or more injectors are leaking down after shutdown, correct? Testing this would be done by performing a leakdown test? How do I go about doing this WITHOUT any special equipment?
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Started my truck this morning. 2000 F350, V10, 153000 on the clock. Immediately sounded like a shotgun went off under the hood, now it sounds like it's running a cutoff exhaust. Had a tiny manifold tick prior to this, but can it backfire hard enough to crack/destroy the manifold?
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Long story short: I bought my 2003 F-250 super duty 6.0 used back in January. It had one Ford OEM battery and one Walmart special. I had them tested and they were both completely flat. Replaced the set of batteries the next day. Since then, upon cranking the truck, the battery indicator will be illuminated while the truck is running. It will stay on for a length of time that varies based on the day. It will eventually turn off after driving a while, but will come back on if I kill the truck and crank it again (like when running to a store).
The batteries have been tested 4 times and test just fine. No problems with the batteries. The OBD 2 computer/monitor I have installed reads a voltage of around 13 when the truck is running. What to do to solve this problem. It isn't a major issue as the truck always cranks fine and the batteries are not damaged or anything, it is more of a annoying thing. It bugs the crap out of me.
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I've been having an ongoing problem with the gear shifter jammed in park after startup. I changed the brake switch and installed a new ignition switch to try fix the problem. Later, I noticed the battery indicator gauge was flat lined even though the truck was running. Out of sheer frustration, I banged the bottom of the steering wheel and suddenly the battery indicator jumped to life and the truck went into gear again.
I took off the panel beneath the steering wheel off to look for any obvious loose wires but found none. This sounds strange but at first, the problem occurred more in the mornings when the weather was cold outside. No, it seems that the battery indicator will flat line while I'm driving in all weather conditions but jumps back up when I tap the steering wheel. I've included a video on youtube to illustrate the problem.
Youtube Video .....
2001 F250 Lariat Superduty 7.3Lm
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My 4x4 on my 2000 model f350 will not engage. The light works, comes on briefly on startup of the engine. When I flip the switch nothing happens. When I jumper the relays nothing happens. I do not have the factory hubs, they r warn hubs and the vacuum line to them is capped off. How to figure this out on why the 4x4 will not engage?
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I have a 2008 6.4 powerstoke with 162,000 miles. It went into reduced engine power , so i had a sct x4 tuner with cold air intake and dpf delete installed. i just picked it up and it is smoking at initial start up. Is this somewhat normal...
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2006 350 6.0, on startup the high and low 4x4 and brake lights come on the dash with a constant tone for a minute or two then stop.
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5.4L... So like many this winter, I had an intermittent crank no start issue. Thought it to be fuel related, based on low fuel pressure readings.
Now all new - battery, iac, cam sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, air filter. Cleaned maf, temp sensor and throttle body. Engine starts, but I don't know if the problem is solved.
Fuel pressure is 40 with key on, falls to 35 on start-up, (which seems ok) but then after a few seconds, the pressure drops to 26 where it seems to want to stay. Hitting throttle hard makes it fall to about 20. I can't find any leaks in the fuel lines. Truck seems to run fine while driving.
To me, this doesn't seem good. Engine is not throwing any codes, but the ST fuel trim is running 0 to +3, and as high as +9 on occasion.
Does the consistent drop to 26 sound normal? Should I dig more into it, or just forget about it since truck seems to be running fine?
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Trying to do some trouble shooting on my own as I'm tired of spending $$ with my local "diesel" garage and getting ripped off. To start with, here's my symptoms:
1. Hard (very hard) to start in the morning. Gets harder every morning. Took me 10 minutes of cranking yesterday morning
2. Once it does start it's very loud, seems to run on just a couple of cylinders and lot's of white smoke
3. After about 10 minutes it's able to get down the road but then at about 2300 RPM and above it sputters, low power, and LOTS of white smoke again.
4. Lots of diesel smell, almost like it has a leak but no visible signs of leaking anywhere.
I've done a lot of research and seems to be leading me towards injector problem or in that general vicinity. However, my first step is to try to narrow it down a little more before I start throwing parts at it. So, first question is: what's my best option for downloading codes? I guess I need one that is CAN capable but seems like most of these or either a few thousand $$ or I have to go to something like a Scanguage or Bullydog. I've thought about putting a tuner on but I guess at that point I'm committing to keeping the truck for a few more years.
So, just initially looking for info on diagnostics equipment and/or test that will eliminate the issue(s). Second, need inputs on possible problems based on symptoms listed above that would be great too. Had EGR delete done a year or so ago.
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Sometimes when I start my truck (maybe 2-3x per week) my windshield wipers will wipe one time randomly. They're not on and haven't been on for days.
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I picked up a set of harley davidson look-a-like headlights online for my 05. I go to install them and when I tighten them up it causes the turn signal bulbs to push in towards the fender on both. I put my hand back there and it feels like the bulb socket is being forced against the header panel assembly. Am I missing something?
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6.2L F250 truck is just shy of 60k runs good however on cold startup there's now a pretty loud ticking noise for a short period (30 seconds) until it warms up then it slowly goes away. Once its warmed up there isn't much of anything.
Did these have exhaust manifold gasket problems like the 5.4? Hoping that's it if not, any other common problems that would make that ticking noise and then go away quickly once the engine is warmed up.
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I just got a 2000 F350 cc drw 7.3l.
I did search but have had no luck. My turn signals do not work, unless my foot is on the brake pedal my green arrow indicator wont even turn on. When they do my bulbs work but don't cycle so I know all the bulbs are good as I had my wife check all four corners when I got them to come on for a split second. I have tried replacing the MFS and the turn signal relay under the radio in the dash.... When I do turn on my blinkers I can hear the relay click once but that is it, no more.
I tried checking the wiring in the column and tilting the column to its extremes while trying to engage the turn signals. Also, if I unplug the brake light switch then I do not get an arrow on the IC to light up so I am guessing the power flows through that switch. I don't have a chilton manual yet and the owners manual was not in the truck. I did check fuse 23 ?
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I would like to know what's happening, it seems as if idling for a minute to let my transmission temperature dial raise past the lowest line on the dial fixes or at least drastically reduces a couple issues.
The truck will deliver power much smoother off the line. I've been concerned about this for a while. The degree to which it happened wasn't constant but it seems like the truck is having trouble grabbing on (so to say) to the power coming off the line. I sort of liken it to a rope. When I give it the beans the rope goes forward but it takes a half a second or so for the truck to "grab" on to the rope. Never hard shifts, it's just delivering the power off the line or from a near stop.
Idling for a minute seems to fix this, power delivery is smooth off the line. Transmission dipstick was nice and pink but smelled slightly burnt. This is with the engine cold overnight. Didn't have time to do multiple wipes or check in the handbook for the proper methods of checking fluid, I just pulled it out quickly to take a look before heading out. Fluid covered the whole tip.
Second issue that seems to be fixed is that the battery light doesn't come on nearly as much and not for nearly as long. Typically the battery light will come on and off seemingly on its own whim during the drive. However, it seems to stay more consistently off if I idle right after startup.
Now bear in mind I baby my truck, I don't rev it high right after startup. Just low enough to cruise around the parking lot until I hit the road then I accelerate up to 40 - 60 depending on my route. I'd gladly give it the minute to warm up in the future but if I could get down to the bottom of this that'd be preferred, I doubt this is required behavior.
I do realize that these issues are not tied to startup behavior but I find it interesting that idling for a minute at startup to let the transmission gauge rise seems to mitigate these symptoms.
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Coming back from a trip I got a e-brake light show up on the dash then noticed the signals stopped working and the heated seats no longer turn on. I scanned it with my AE and got a brake fluid sensor error come up but nothing about the signals .... is this a common problem or is there a connection between all this? 2003 F350 6.0L .....
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I am having some problems with my 4WD, it's not working. When I turn the key on, I do not see the 4WD light. I have locked the hubs with no change. I noticed that my switch was not illuminated either, so I started there. I took the switch out, cleaned it up a bit and reinstalled it. Now it's illuminated but still no 4WD. I have swapped the two relays and still nothing. I have checked all the fuses under the dash and they were all good.
I don't believe the switch is the problem(they seem to be pretty simple and it doesn't look like there's much to go wrong. Is there a better way to test the switch other than just seeing the illumination light on? I plan on testing the transfer case shift motor tomorrow but I don't believe that is the problem since I'm not even getting the dash 4x4 light.
My other thought is replace the GEM but I was trying to rule out a few of the cheaper alternatives first.
I almost forgot to mention, approximately 7 months ago, my buddy and I were going coyote hunting. Being the genius he is, he didn't unload his rifle while we were in the truck and at some point, something happened and he touched off a round.
The shot was a well placed point blank shot and went right through a large group of wires on the passenger side trim panel under the glove box.
Initially, he bagged himself a trophy size Superduty but after some emergency surgery and a bit of soldering, everything has been fine.
I haven't used the 4WD after this incident but I can't say for certain this caused it because I haven't checked until now. Do you think this caused it? Is there a hidden/residual problem that I missed?
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