1999 f-250 7.3 diesel. Speedometer doesn't work and neither does the odometer, the ABS light stays on and once you start driving the OD light starts flashing and the truck starts shifting weird. I've changed the rear ABS/VSS sensor on the diff and the OSS on top of the transmission at the tail end. Still no luck.....
View 5 Repliesthis morning my 02 decided to turn the ABS light on, and start bouncing the speedometer. plus, the OD light is flashing when stopped with foot on the brakes, but the trans is shifting fine.
nothing changed on the truck except almost 3 inches of rain fell last night.
will AE tell me if the VSS is going bad?
I have a 1999 f250 7.3 ... l extended cab 4x4 super duty ... ABS light on, over drive light flashing and speedometer has stopped working .. I have replaced abs senor on the rear of transmission and on the rear end.both new and just replaced abs module just the computer not the pump that was used . And abs light, overdrive light are still on and the speedometer is still not working ..
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 F250, 5.4, 4X4. My ignition key stuck in the start position and when I pulled it back to the run position, everything seemed ok. As I started down the road, my speedometer stopped working and my overdrive light was flashing. Also my turn signals had stopped working and my A/C clutch didn't engage. Figured I burnt a fuse. I looked in both the under dash and power distribution box and all seemed well. I checked the fuse for the turn signals/flasher and it was fine. The flashers worked. Thought I might have fried something so I replaced the ignition lock and switch. Also my service engine light came on throwing a code for the vehicle speed sensor.
Looking for solutions on this forum and the internet, I learned that the turn signal switch could have gone bad and the VSS sensor is on the top of the rear dif and an easy fix. Well replaced the sensor but nothing changed. So I went back to the fuse box. Examined every fuse, big and small and I found a 10a with a small space. This was #24 under the dash. From the manual, "#24, 10A, A/C clutch, Blend Door Actuator, Trailer Tow Battery Charge Relay Coil, Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS), Turn Signal." Replaced it and everything went back to normal. Turn signals work, A/C clutch works, no flashing overdrive light and speedometer works. All from a 10A fuse. If you have any of these symptoms examine all the fuses carefully. There's a 20A fuse for turn/hazard lamps and this other one buried that's only 10A.
just got 20" rims 295/65/20 Nittos. Is my odometer accurate and speedometer?
Not that it matters but its a 99 F350 CC LB 3.73 axle ratio
2004 F250 Crewcab 4x4 5.4 automatic.
My speedometer quit working - stays on 0, my odometer stays on 271006.5 miles. Everything lights up, when I do a gauge sweep, the speedometer goes from 0 to full blast then back to zero. On the gauge sweep, my odometer states off all the code stuff like I think it's suppose to.
Anyway, I was lucky enough to get a speeding ticket - driving with the flow of traffic, with the police officer behind me for a mile or more. Pulls me over, explain my speedo just went out, he said he can't let me off but the judge might. So I'm trying to fix prior to a court date.
Here is what I have tried so far.
1. Replaced the VSS in the axle - no change to problem.
2. Replaced the sensors on top of the tranny (2 of them) - no change in problem.
3. Sent the cluster off to a repair shop - they said it worked when it left there shop - no change in problem.
4. Replaced the battery - thought it might have a dead cell. - no change in problem.
5. Unhooked the battery, turned on the headlights, waited 30 minutes, put it back together. (did this probably 5 times) - no change in the problem.
6. Replaced the diff fluid. - no change in problem.
7. Replaced the front left abs sensor on the hub - the existing wire looked like it had rubbed on metal - possible short? - no change in problem.
So far I've just been what seems to be time and money at it with no luck.
I reprogrammed my computer, to get rid of a bad tune with the Ford Program. After reprogramming, and entering in my tire size/gear size my speedometer and odometer no longer work. Also my overdrive light is flashing. Does this truck have a PSOM and could that be bad? What else could cause the problem, it definitely happened when it was flashed. Whats the cheapest way to fix it?
View 9 Replies1999 superduty 7.3 standard ... As I said speedometer fail with abs lite on. When ambient ten above 85F, speedo works abs lite out and cruse control works.
View 1 RepliesOccasionally while driving my 2005 F250 the speedometer will quit working & the abs light will come on. The transmission will also start to shift weird. If I pull over, shut the truck off & restart it everything is fine again. I can go weeks at a time before it happens again, but yesterday it happened twice. The transmission doesn't seem to shift real fast, but I think that is a separate issue. My first instinct is that the rear VSS is starting to go out, but I am not sure if these symptoms are common.
View 1 Replies2005 6.0 F350 dually, speedometer quit working and the ABS light came on. I replaced the speedo sensor in the diff, but to no avail. Hear a lot about the cluster, however nothing with the ABS light on.
View 3 RepliesI recentlyHad to replace the right front wheel bearing and after the install the speedometer and turn signals don't work, the ABS light is on and the overdrive light on the shifter is flashing. I've replaced the VSS on the rear diff, pulled and cleaned Speed sensors on front hub?
View 2 RepliesI know this has been done to death, but on my '08 F250 XL I can't seem to get the truck to enter into the programming mode to program some fobs to it. I've done the cycling business and the best I get is a flashing light on the dash of the truck with a little lock on it, but nothing else. Can you not program the XL? Is there a major step I am missing?
View 14 Replies1998 F-250 LD 4x4 463,000 km.
My truck begins to flash the OD light after driving about 10 km. So I borrowed a friend's scan tool and got a P0503, and P1500. So having been pointed to the vehicle speed sensor, I connected TORQUE and watched closely vehicle speed. Driving at a steady 80 kph it will jump rapidly up and down, from about 72-92, while the gauge in the instrument cluster reads a calm and steady 80.
Which sensor and wiring do I need to inspect? Rear diff or on the back of transfer case? Oh, and the ABS light is NOT on.
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2000 F250 V10 Auto/Rebuilt Tranny... This weekend, I noticed my truck wasn't shifting at lower RPMs like it has been. I'm not hitting much higher RPMs per shift then normal. Very soon after, I get a "Service Engine Soon" light and my "OD OFF" light on my shifter handle started flashing.
View 8 RepliesI have the dreaded flashing O/D light on my early 99 F350 7.3 4x4 auto. The only one's that seem to be consistently recommended are Snap-On or AutoEnginuity.
View 1 RepliesTonight i noticed overdrive flashing. No changes in shifting, truck shifted fine. I shut it off when i got home, started back up, light was not blinking, not sure if its like the check engine light and stays on or not. Where light blinks but shifts fine?
View 10 RepliesOK, quick question. I have an '03 250 with the 5.4 and the OD light began flashing tonight. I looked in the forums here and everyone say's new tranny or sensor but over on the diesel forums the are saying that the alternator is a big cause of this (dirty power).
At the beginning of this year I noticed what I assumed to be a misfire when putting the motor under a load. Once up to speed it would smooth out and all was good. I was told that a plug job on these trucks is hellish and expensive since a lot of guys break the plugs off in the block. I put it off and the issue went away when the weather warmed up.
Now it's getting cold again and the misfire is back. Driving home tonight the truck died at a light. I restarted it and as I accelerated I noticed a difference in the shift from first to second and then saw the OD light blinking.
Again, the diesel guys are all talking alternator so my question is this: could the alternator cause both the OD light to flash AND the misfire? If the "dirty power" can cause the tranny to fall in to safe mode, can it also cause the ignition to be problematic?
We have a 2008 f250 super duty with the 5.4 triton well ever since I replaced the power steering pump its been running raggedly, it idles rough and when i get up to 50, 55, 60 the check engine light comes on i put a diagnostic reader on it and said something along the lines of ECU bank 1 an Bank 2. What that is and I've been a mechanic for almost 3 years.
View 2 RepliesOverdrive light started flashing this week on my 2000 F450 7.3 mason dump. It only does it when it shifts into 4th gear once it hits that gear at about 35mph the overdrive light flashes until you restart the truck and it resets. Does the same thing all the time but DOESN'T flash if i'm driving around town on back roads and never get to that gear. Could this be something minor besides the transmission starting to go? It drives and shifts fine even when the light is flashing. I wait to get the error code read?
View 10 RepliesLooking for a diagram of where the transmission temp sensor is found ..... I have a 2005 f 250 5.4l FX4.... My tow haul light keeps flashing...
View 4 RepliesI have an 04 F250 4x4 king ranch with a 6.8 V10.
When I first bought this truck it had a problem of stalling out at stops. You could sometimes hold the brake and gas and push your way through it but it would sputter for a second and try to die and then it was fine once you got going. The OD light would flash, check engine light would come on and it would throw a P0720 code for the OSS. I did some researching and I pulled the sensor in the pumpkin before that because I read that could cause the same problem, so I cleaned it and put it back but it didn't solve the issue. Then found that an K&N air filter can often times clog the MAF and cause the issue so I pulled my air filter and sure enough it was a K&N, I swapped it with a normal filter and sprayed some MAF cleaner and its been running like a top for months... until now.
It started again, gradually at first. It would die when I started to back the truck at a very low speed to load my 4 wheeler. I fired it up and it was good again for a couple more weeks, then I went to hook to a horse trailer and I was having to back up a hill to get to it, and it just kept dying, OD light would flash, check engine light came on. I was in a bind so I just tried wiping off the MAF with a rag, that didn't work, my girlfriend was using the truck and said it kept dying whenever she stopped. I got it home and cleaned the MAF with cleaner really well but the problem persisted. I went ahead and changed my oil, spark plugs(gaped at .052-.054), replaced the IAC(which looked like it had been installed once before so I am guessing someone tried it and when it didn't fix the problem they returned it) and changed the fuel filter. I drove it around and it ran fine, drove it to work and it ran fine, my girlfriend took it for about 15 minutes to run an errand for me and it was fine until she got back in the parking lot and liked to never got it parked again it stalled so much.
So I went back to the drawing board and read that it is rarely the OSS that is the problem but that often times the issue is a bad coil pack. I don't have a scanner nor do I know how the heck to use one. I plan on going out of town at the end of the week and the truck has 194k miles on it so rather then take it to a shop and try to find out which COP was bad I just decided to replace all of them(I know, I know, you should never just start replacing parts). I only had time to replace 5 of them, I took the truck out and again it dove fine for an hour, went through traffic OK. It sat for an hour and when I left it started to die again, I could drop it in neutral and it would fire back up and as long as I gave it just a hair of throttle it stayed running fine, take my foot off the fuel and in a minute it would die again. After I drove for a bit it was fine again. Now I know the problem may yet be in the remaining 5 COP that I must change tonight but in case it is not I wanted to get input on this.
I've read the problem can come from a bad ground, so I took every ground point that I could find under the hood and I cleaned the connectors and took the paint off at the connection site just for good measure. The problem persists. I've read that sometimes a diode can go out on the alternator and cause this problem, I did use my amp meter and I'm checking out at 13 volts while running. I'm not the best with meters so I'm not sure how else to check the diode?
I've also read that taking it to a dealership is hit or miss for them diagnosing the problem, sometimes they find the issue, sometimes they just change the OSS. The only mechanic I trust closed his shop and is now service manager of the Dodge dealership. I'm thinking since this seems to be a common problem that maybe ford might have more knowledge of it then dodge but I trust the dodge dealership more because of who is over it. Either way I know it will sit in a dealership for awhile before it ever gets looked at and if they have to chase any electrical problems then that starts racking up $$ fast.
So what am I missing? I've thought about replacing the MAF since cleaning it the first time solved the problem. When it did this the first time I still had my 01 F250(it never gave me problems like this) and so I took the MAF off of it and swapped them and sure enough it fixed my problem so I switched them back after I cleaned the MAF and like I said it's been running fine until recently. I'd rather not throw money at this by replacing parts and hoping for the best. I've also read about tracing the harness that runs from the sensor on the pumpkin to the OSS and on. That harness runs through all kinds of stuff so I'm dreading that but it will also be a next step. I haven't pulled the OSS because its in a very awkward position on my truck.