Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: New Rotors / Pads But Constant Squealing?
Jul 28, 2014
I've replaced the pads and rotors on my 97 f250 HD, only to have constant squealing. I've replaced ranger rotors before with no problem but this has been an adventure. It's squeals constantly up to 35, (I've only went up to 35) and squeals louder under braking. Just looking for some pointers. Probably just need a good cleaning. The truck is parked until its fixed more than likely.
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As the title states I just finished putting pads and rotors on the front of my 04' f250. I have had a terrible shutter almost a bouncing effect while braking over the last week or so, finally got around to doing the work and still no satisfaction! My question is where to go next? Wheel bearings and tires are good, I do get a pretty good wobble/vibration in the pedal while braking. Should I be looking at a brake booster or master cylinder? Or is it possible it's a caliper? Truck goes down the road fine until and brake is applied.
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My 2000 F350 truck has been getting hotspots and cracks on it's rotors since I've bought it. So, for almost 16 years I have been replacing my rotors every two or so years. I've used cheap ones, expensive ones and ones with holes in them. It doesn't seem to make a difference! What have you done to fix it?
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was going to do a brake job on my f250 light duty and the rotors won't come off. At first I thought they were rusted on but after looking at them it looks like the studs are attached to the rotor. Need to confirm this because the new rotors I got don't have the hub attached. Don't know if it's the wrong part or what?
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I recently replaced all of my brake pads with yellow stuff and they seem to be squeaking a lot. I also noticed when I am driving and I stop and let off of the brakes they don't release immediately so could it be this is the cause of the squeaks or do these brake pads just squeak like crazy? I read somewhere it could possibly be the brake lines but I don't see how this could be the cause for so much squeaking.
My truck is a 2011 F 250 diesel crew cab....
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Brake issues on 2005 F250. About 3 years ago during vehicle inspection the garage stated I need all for rotors on my F250. I had @40,000 miles at the time. Garage said rotors are a onetime use, no recutting them. So I got all new rotors. Prior to then I never even felt a wobble indicating they were warped. Anyhow now with 15,000 miles on them I have a huge wobble when I get on the brakes and it's 5x pronounced when pulling a trailer. I assume more warped rotors. If so, why? I pull a camper or car trailer maybe 7-10 times a year.
Now currently I am assuming its warped rotors because I have not had it "professionally" checked. I did have one occasion last August pulling the camper where I smelled the brakes being hot. The pedal got soft. After cooling it seemed ok and I flushed the old fluid and put in new. I have about 4100 miles since then and the warped feel just started about a month ago. I hate the thought of new rotors as I paid for new Ford rotors 3 years ago. Didn't want the Chinese crap from the box stores. I can't imagine how these would warp this bad after less than 15,000 miles, they are massive. Why they would so quickly?
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I'm putting new brake pas on my front and I want to know what is the best type to put on there. I ave a 2006 F-350 Dually.
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My trouble is that the alternator light on my 2004 F-250 Diesel began to come on occasionally, but never constant. Taking in the fact that it was still the original alternator, and over 70,000 miles, I figured it was time for a new one. I installed the new one and after two days the light came on again. I tested the alternator and it read 13.84 volts while running. With the engine shut off, I had 12.59, and 12.6 volts at the batteries. What may be my problem? Diesel down.
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I was running my 99 F250 SD with the V10 around the DFW area pulling a car hauler with a Jeep on it. The last 50 or so miles on the way home she started shuddering at a constant speed unless I turned off the overdrive or I was accelerating or slowing down.
She's never given me any issues but this is bothering me. 4x4...
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I am replacing my front brakes on my 2001 f250 and I replaced the brake pad retaining clips and now I can not get the new pads in place because of the new clips. what am I doing wrong????
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I'm gonna replace my front and rear brake pads. Any tips? Do I need to pull the rotor off and clean the axel? I've watched a couple of youtube videos but they leave me with a few answers. I have all the tools, what kinda lubricants will i need? Any recommendations? I hoping I can do a flawless job without and squealing...
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03 f350 4x4. New front calipers and pads.
Wondering if there's a 'trick' to getting the front brake pads into the caliper . Those damn springs kept popping out. I'd get three of the four ends into place in the pad holes then one would pop out while I'm trying to get the fourth in.
After about a hour of trying every different way that I could think of, another set of hands came by and with four hands holding things in place, it finally did the trick.
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I have a 2001 F350 with a7.3 power stroke, 6 speed manual with manual t case and hubs. I have a bad grinding noise when in 2 wheel drive. Similar sound as if you are trying to shift t case into 4 wheel drive too slowly. The grinding is constant in 2 wheel drive, but if I shift it into 4 wheel drive, the noise completely goes away. I have been driving around in 4 wheel drive (T case only, manual hubs not locked) for the past 2 days. If I shift back into 2 wheel drive, a constant terrible grinding noise returns. What could be wrong, and why it goes away in 4 wheel drive?????
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I did the HID headlight swap about a month and a half ago. Driving tonight about an hour away in heavy constant rain my headlights have gone out... They have flickered. They have gone in and out a couple times but end up off. Any Quick fix????
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I was getting ready to run a fused wire from the battery to the rear of the truck to power my bed lights. Then I read where some owners have jumped the trailer charge relay socket to provide constant 12v at the 7-pin trailer plug.
I never keep my trailer cord connected to the truck when camping so the chances of the trailer draining the battery are nil.I don't want powering the bed lights from other sources as I have decided I want 12v to bed light switch always available.
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Have a 2001 F350 7.3 4X4 with single wheels in rear. Started hearing brakes noise and decided to change both front and rear pads. Front had almost half the pads left. Rear on drivers side had about half the pads left. The passenger side metal to metal on the inboard pad and about half the pad on the outboard side. The slides on the caliper were a little sluggish but moved freely. Don't think there is enough to have them turned so will have to replace the rotors. Why this would happen. Could the caliper get stuck? It was easy enough to compress with a C clamp.
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I have a 99 f250 4x4 super duty. Just started getting a loud squealing noise off and on in the front end. Changed the ujoints and axle seals on both sides. They where all in bad shape. It still makes the noise off and on while in 2wd. If I lock the hubs in it doesn't. What it could be ?
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Tried using the search function without much luck. My brakes started squealing so I know it's time to replace. I use my 2wd 250 truck for work mainly and it has some weight on it. Most of my driving is stop and go. I use it to tow my Jeep maybe 3 times a year as well.
What are the best pads to go with? From what little I found using the search function it seems Hawk LTS or OEM from the dealer, not Motorcraft from the parts store.
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Of course my freon all leaked out of the AC compressor and it is squealing pretty bad. I did not want the serpentine belt to break due to a seized compressor so I looked for a bypass pulley kit. Naturally they make one for both gas engines, but not for the diesel. So out comes the string and sharpie, and trips to 2 different auto parts place to get the correct length belt after trying several that were too short. It's 103 inches (8 groove) for future reference to bypass the ac compressor and upper extra pulley. 7.3 diesel.....
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I can't afford to replace it now and want to quiet the squealing that occurs only when I turn right. A mechanic sprayed something on there about a month ago that caused the squealing to stop for about a week, but don't remember what it was. It's a 2002 S.D....
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While pullin in my 7.3 with a 4r100 from a passing hail storm, i shut her down and crawled under it just to check things out. While under there I heard a noise that sounded like something was shorting out figured out the location of the noise, but what the electrical connector is for?
passenger side next to exhaust
After further analysis the noise only happens after truck has been placed in drive gear and then to park gear and finally shut down/turn engine off... Makes noise for around 30 seconds and is not a constant short noise like something is jumping around....
More pics about the problem that is hard to get too and explain where it is...
Just behind the tranny line....
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