Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: New Gear Box And Front End But Still Sloppy At The Wheel
Sep 4, 2017
I replaced my steering gearbox with a remanufactured oem gearbox (no, not the redhead. I wish I'd had the extra money but I didn't.) I replaced the factory sway bar (1.25" diameter) with the Excursion sway bar that came on my axle (1.4" diameter) along with polyurethane bushings and greaseable end links. I replaced wheel bearings, ball joints, track bar bushings, tierods (ends, sleeves, the whole nine yards). Literally everything from the gearbox down, besides the pitman arm, is brand new.
The next day I took it in and got it aligned at Goodyear. The steering is noticeably more responsive, but I still have 1-2" of play either way before I get a response. I'm skeptical about tightening the gearbox. I did that on the old one and it improved steering for a couple years, but this new one shouldn't require any tightening.
I have yet to install new steering stabilizers, but I can recognize bump steer versus this problem on a straight, smooth road. I'm sure the stabilizers won't change the 2 inches of play.
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just bought this f250 seems to walk on the road alot, had it looked at has new balljoints, he says everything seems tight except there is lots of play at the gearbox, is it recommended to have it rebuilt or buy a reman, was told that even the reman seems to be the same way
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My 2000 f250 7.3 has pretty sloppy steering and noise in the front end when going over bumps. I have replace the drop links, swap bar bushings, both wheel hubs including new seals and the drag link. The rest of the front end seems to be in good shape. I put it up on jack stands and there is some movement in the front end but it seems to all be in the steering box.
Steering box appears to be original with 220k miles. I went to tighten it and it appears the PO did it at least once already. Is it safe to try tightening it again? Does tightening it increase the risk of failure? I'd like to try tightening it first but not at the risk of losing steering at 65mph with my kids in the truck.
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I have a 200 f250 v10 srw 4x4.. I've replaced the auto front lockers with warn premium manuals. I cannot get power to the front wheels. The lockers appear fine. I hear the actuator function when I activate 4x4. Whats the possibility of a bad transfer case or front diff and how do i check? I've searched but there seems to be a lot of non-answers.
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I have a 2004 F250, CCSB, 6.0L, Fx4, Lariat.
I am trying to replace the passenger side front hub. I either have a bad hub, or I am not installing it properly. I have it installed with the locking hub unlocked and trying to turn the hub, the entire passenger side axle spins. It is also very hard to turn it. I strapped axle, and the hub is almost impossible to turn, with or with out the actual hub installed.
This is the second hub that I installed with the same results. I''m not ruling out bad out of the box, but it is the second one I installed today.
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If front wheel bearings can be greased through the abs wire hole on a f250 4X4, will that work on a sealed bearing on a gm product? I have done my f250 but I also have a 2004 suburban.
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1. Why does my front end hop when only turning right in 4 wheel drive?
2. O nly one of my back tires spin, so does that mean that when I put it in 4 wheel drive I only have 3 tires spinning?
oh I got a 2001 xl 5.4 f250 and is this normal
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I have a 2000 F350 4X4 crew cab and have a vibration in the front end. I have done sone investigating and have come to the conclusion that is the front wheel bearings. The dealers says I have to buy the entire hub assemble but I seem to think different. But if I can replace the bearings any special tools that might make it easier ..
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2004 F350 150,000km ... I have a rattling/clicking sound from the front right wheel when the hub is not locked (Free) and I hit small holes or run over rough roads. the sound is gone when I lock the hub front hubs.
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Are just the bearings serviceable/replaceable or is the only option to get entire wheel hub assembly?
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2003 F250 4x4 7.3L
While doing my brakes in the front, I tried to wiggle the front left, nothing. Solid. Then when I did the right, I was surprised to see it wiggle when I grabbed the tire. So I looked to see what was moving.
Not the U joint, not the ball joints, But it looks like what is a drive shaft.. (I am new to this stuff). On the right side a shaft comes out of the axle just before the U joint and the rest of the wheel assy. What is wrong?
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Question. My Son borrowed my 2006 4-wheel F-350 and broke down in Vermont. 8 hrs from me. Told me he heard some noises from the left front and then the abs light came on. I had him jack up the front and check for bearing play in the left front. Alas, He said between 1/4" and 1/2" of play. I bought the new hub and bearing assembly to drive up there with tomorrow morning. The locking hub will come right off. I just replaced them 4 months ago. I will be bringing a crap load of tools, but anything specific i should bring? I wont have torches so I am hoping the hub will brake free.
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2002 F250 4 wheel drive manual hubs, 7.3....
My first thought was to have the tires rebalanced and rotated to see if it is tire noise? I am hearing damage on top of the noise from the 7.3, hard to be sure!
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So I have to replace the front unit bearings on my 2004 f250 4wd. My question is, which thread pattern I have, fine or coarse? I have read that the early models, 99-02 have coarse threads. Afterwards they are fine. I am going to order online as they are cheaper than the local parts store. I have the Timken part numbers for either thread pattern.
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I have read the older posts here on the super duty ford 4x4 system. At 60,000 miles I noticed what sounds like a gear or bearing noise, or even a whining noise like you would hear from mud grip tires, coming from the front end area, while driving back from Kentucky to Georgia. I have quiet running street tires on this pickup.
I have a 2004 F350 crew cab XL, automatic, 4x4, limited slip axles, 430 gearing and a V10. This truck has always been extremely quiet on the highway. This noise I described above has increased and the truck now has 70,000 miles. I have the factory 4x4 dash switch in my truck cab for the 4x4 engagement. I always thought the dash switch engaged and disengaged the transfer case, and locked or unlocked the automatic hubs.
The service guy at the dealer now tells me that the dash switch only locks and unlocks the front hubs, and the front drive shaft and front differential are engaged full time. So, after checking my tires for defects, and for any play or bearing noise in my wheel bearings, I am looking at pulling the drive shaft out keep the front differential from turning, to determine if I have a bad bearing in the front axle assembly.
Now I read some of the posts here, and they say that with the dash switch in "2 wheel drive", the transfer case should be disengaged and the front drive shaft and front axle should not be turning at all. What is turning up front with the 4x4 disengaged on the dash switch ? I'm afraid to drive my truck out of town now and I need to isolate this issue and get it repaired. This has been a great truck and it's very reliable.
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I have a 2008 F250 5.4 4x4 supercab long box (68,000 miles) that has a little bit of movement in the front wheel bearing and hub assemblies. Made it through inspection OK but it will need to be changed soon. Just asking for everyone's thoughts on brands they prefer. I have had great luck with Moog brand products in the past. I put SKF hubs on my wife's 2010 Explorer and they I would say are top quality also. Not interested in a conversion kit or cheap junk. I want a good quality unit. What brand has everyone had good results with? Are Moog or SKF the way to go?
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I have a 2008 F-450 Lariat 6.4 4x4. I recently started noticing the front driver side wheel (best I can tell) wheel makes a noise as though it's binding uo when turning either direction, and I can feel it as well. 4wd is not activated and the hubs are in auto. When the front end is off the ground, I rotated the wheels and they spun independently unless the hubs were locked. I noticed what appear to be seals on both the driver and passenger side hanging loose (see pics). What this might be? I recently used the 4wd when we visited White Sands National Monument while pulling a 5th wheel RV.
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Well, I've been meaning to get to servicing/re-greasing the front hubs/bearings for a while but somehow it keeps getting moved down the list.
2000 F250SD 4X4 Gas Manual Hubs+Trans
I'm currently going through the many threads that turned up in my search query.
Driving slow with the windows down it seems like a low whine or squeal coming from the left front. Tone changes when working the steering wheel left and right. Haven't detected any grinding sounds. Any other techniques for isolating the problem? It's going up on jack stands tonight and I'm going to see if there is any wobble from the front wheels and I'll listen as I turn each of the front wheels. Oddly, the right front hub is hard to turn. Left front turns easy.
Viewed Rob259956's videos on servicing the hubs. Currently researching accessing the wheel bearings. It seems pretty straightforward. Truck has been off road but not mud bogged or anything like that. I'm guessing a bad bearing will be easy to identify as will a bad o-ring but any other stuff I should look closely at?
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I have a '99 F250 w/ PSD with 165k miles.
When I drive, I move the steering wheel and nothing happens for the first few degrees of turn and then I encounter resistence and it turns. It's the same either way. The vehicle seems to track nicely, doesn't pull to either side, just a lot of slop in the steering wheel.
Is there a way to determine if this is really steering related or is it just loose/worn front end suspension parts making themselves known? My guess is suspension items, but the fact the front end behaves itself when the truck is moving has me doubting that just a bit.
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I have a 2008 f-250 6.4 Diesel. Yesterday the Brake Fluid light came on. I thought maybe a sensor, but once I parked and checked I realized my brake fluid was down to the Min line. I started looking for a leak and it was apparent that it was the front drivers wheel area.
I am attaching a picture of the brake. The leak is either coming from the area where the fluid line runs into the gold thing (caliper?) or the bolt at the bottom of the gold thing.
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Here's the deal. I have a 2001 F250 4x4 and I am getting a noise in the front drivers side wheel. The noise is not a grind or clunk, but its like a u-joint is rubbing inside an empty cylinder kind of. Anyways, it seems like it does it only with small bumps. I took off my oem hubs and re-installed them and the noise went away for about a week. Now I replaced them with manual locking hubs and the noise is back. One other thing I notice is if i put the switch to 4x4 the noise goes away. I checked all major components for the steering and suspension and nothing was loose. The front end is tight. Is there anything inside the axle that would cause this? I dont know what to check for anymore. Where else to check?
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