I bought this truck used and the guy said it needed a new blend door actuator so I bought a new one off eBay I installed it, plugged the wire back in and turned on the key and it started smoking, it burned up. The wires have been cut before and have been butt connected back together. I notified the place I bought it from and they sent me back a new one but I'm scared it will do it again.
View 3 Replies2008 F-350 Lariat, 6.4L, dual climate control. The passenger side blows ONLY hot air whereas driver side seems to blow whatever is called for. Is it right to assume this is the passenger side actuator, and this actuator is the "easy" one to replace (i.e. not pulling dash)? I read in another thread that there might be a question on determining the correct one to replace, so therefore I ask for clarification. How to verify if my assumption wrong?
View 4 RepliesMy ex-has the electronic temp control. I've noticed there is very little difference from full hot to turned down less than 1/2 way.
(I'll convert to Fahrenheit here) Example - lowest temp setting is 60. If I am on heat, turning it from 60 to 66, gives me almost full hot. A slight difference is felt turning it to 68 and 70, but basically, 70 is full HOT. Continuing to turn it up to 88 makes zero difference.
I figured the blend door actuator might be toast, but it is in fact moving. I pulled the heater core cover off and here is what I noticed.
At 60, the blend door is fully open (correct, pulling cold air from outside) turning it to 66 the blend door almost fully closes. then the last little bit gets closed when going from 66-70. Anything hotter than 70 is of no use because mechanically it IS on full hot at 70. So basically I get full cold, or full hot, nothing in the middle. I pulled blend door actuator out, cleaned all the built-up crud around the shaft, took it apart and cleaned it, (no broken gears) no effect.
sitting at a redlight with radio off, sounds like heater door or something under the dash is moving. Thing is, all the controls for heater and a/c were off.
2009 f250 5.4.
I have a 99 EB Expedition 5.4 with EATC climate control. I replaced the heater core that had been leaking severely. When I got the dash back on I adjusted the controls with the engine running while watching the blend door actuator under the dash. it moved but not as much as I thought it should. So I drilled an "inspection" hole behind the glove box and into the plenum cover. I watched the blend door open and close when the hot/cold buttons were adjusted, but the movement was intermittent.
I'd checked the blend door for cracks prior to installing the heater core and found none. I left things alone for a day while I drove as normal. When I had time to work on it again, the actuator quit working. I figured it was damaged from the coolant leaking into the cab so I decided to replace it. It was indeed full of coolant. I bought a Dorman actuator (part #604-216) and plugged it into the wiring harness to test it before installing it. I adjusted the controls with the ignition in the "run" position and nothing happened. I'm at a loss as to what could be the problem. I've searched for this problem, but the only threads I find are incomplete or deal with the "manual" controls. I checked all my fuses and they are all good.
My questions are:
Could I have bought the wrong actuator? Would the harness fit the "manual" actuator? The part number was identified as being for the main blend door for "automatic" controls. Is there a possibility the EATC head unit is bad? It still sends air to the panel, floor and defrost when adjusted.
How do I test the voltage at the connector? I just bought a multimeter but I'm not sure which wires in the harness deliver power to the actuator. I know there are a lot of people on this site who've gone through the heater core/blend door ordeal and have lived to tell about it. What I should do next.
Ok, I know the problem is the blend door, but not which one. I hear a clicking constantly whether the truck is started or not near the center of the passenger side. I can adjust the temp to be 65-70 on the driver side and be fine, but the passenger side is hot. I've looked for TSB's for 2010 and have come up empty. I bought the truck used, and bought an extended warranty, but not sure it will cover this repair.
Is there a TSB for this? If you had this done at the dealer, how much did it cost to repair? Would you attempt the repair yourself? I've taken the dash apart to find the problem, but then determined it might be too involved for me to do and I wasn't comfortable disconnecting the air bags.....
What is the difference between :
Part # XF2H-19E616-FA and
Part # YL5Z-19E616-AA?
The middle numbers are the same. And they look the same? the first one is mine. Blend door actuator out of a 2000 ford windstar. Will another part # work? If the connection is the same?
Where is the Blend Door Actuator on the ford Aerostar?
View 14 RepliesTime for me to replace the actuator. I just have one. I've watched many videos on it but none say anything about re-calibration before using. A few posts say this is needed. Is it? if so how is it done?
View 6 RepliesI have an Explorer with automatic A/C. The blend door actuator broke (a gear inside) so I replace it with a Dorman part (could not find the Ford ones anywhere). Part #604-202, looks identical and fits. But... doesn't work.
If I do the EATC test (OFF+FLOOR, then AUTOMATIC), the display shows error coded 024, 025, 052. What is the meaning of those?
Whenever my A/C is turned on, it blows nice cold air. As long as the blower is on "1", "2", and sometimes ", it blows cold air. If I turn it to "4" I can hear a small "thud" behind the dash. It sounds like the blend door is shutting. All my functions work like they should. I think the actuator is goin out and isn't pushing the door all the way closed, and when I turn it to "4" it pushes it te other way.
View 5 RepliesI purchased a 6.7 Diesel 2014 F250 Super Duty Crew Cab about 3 months ago. Yesterday I started my truck using the remote starter from inside my house. Seconds after I heard a loud noise. Looked outside, saw nothing and thought nothing of it till I went to open my door and realized that the driver door window shattered! I live in a quiet area, it wasn't a rock thrown at my truck or anything like that, it just Blew!!!!
I'm wondering if the truck might have some sort of pressure or torque if you wish on that window to make it just pop! My mirrors were folded in however I can't see that playing a role......
I know there is a motor or switch that I can remember the name of that is in the dash somewhere that controls the Defrost and regular cabin flow. I am not good with A/C, and was wondering, what is the name of it, and is it something I can get to behind the glove box or is it very complicated?
View 7 RepliesA cab light (OEM) has burned out. I'd like to replace it. What style/part number bulbs are used?
The closest tangential reference I can find is to 194, with additional references to 168 and 912. A Google Image Search of makes it seem like I'm getting warmer.
I need diagnosing why my A/C isn't working. I'm wondering if my clutch staying engaged has burned up my compressor before or after my clutch went bad. I don’t think it’s the air gap issue because I took my clutch off and checked and there were zero washers. I guess somehow I re-installed it with no washers maybe the last time I fooled with it.
I've only knew to check the air gap trick and when that didn't work, I wasn't sure what my next step could be. I tried looking at the high side pressure switch connector to see if it was burned up and it looked ok.
Can track down if my compressor is still good and replacing my clutch is the only thing I need to do or if I need to replace my compressor? Or if there's something else that's totally unrelated that I need to check?
2008 F-250 Lariat with EATC climate controls... My truck suffers from the knocking/buzzing/clicking that is apparently associated with faulty blend door actuators. I have been putting off getting them replaced because of the hefty price tag associated with tearing apart the dash and whatnot that is required to get to the lower actuator that sits right on the transmission tunnel. Anyhow, today was the first day I really needed A/C and it just wasn't cold. Cool yes, but not cold. Is there a way to determine if this is a function of the blend door(s) not doing their thing versus the system A/C needing a repair/recharge? I don't have access to any A/C equipment myself, how to determine if it's a blend door issue?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 SD 7.3 Manual, in which either the rod or the actuator has broken. I can tell yet which it is. I can mover the lower actuator back and for but that doesn't tell me which part is broken. I have the parts on order to replace. I have been searching without success to find detailed instructions to make the replacement.
I run a small shop away from my day job but have never dug into one of these. Being the various small parts and sequence of disassembly/Assembly I want to do it correctly the first time. It's very strange how you can go to YouTube and search for everything under the sun with great results, except for this.
I have a 2001 f350 this morning I went to start the truck the key turn but I heard a click sound all the lights and everything came on but the truck won't start just silence I could turn the key back in the off position and put the key out but the truck is still on radios on it's like the truck is still in the run position or on position there is a lot of play between off and run but like I said the truck will not start, could be not sure if it's the ignition switch or actuator rod..
View 2 Repliesthe driver/rear suicide door combo is rubbing at the top and thus rattling on bumps. Looks to me like it is actually from the rear door as the gap in the very back is very wide at the top. the driver door gaps look normal along the front. Before I dig into this I wanted to check and find out the best way to approach. Is there an adjustment inside the hinge? the bolts on the jam look solid and have never been adjusted. Perhaps there is a hinge pin in there?
View 9 RepliesVehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.
Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?
I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?