Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: New Wheels / Driver Side Rubs Really Bad
Mar 4, 2017
I just put new rims on my truck which are 18x9 with a -24 offset. I swapped my 35s over from my stock wheels (which they didn't rub at all). When I put my new wheels on, the drivers side rubs really bad but the passenger side doesn't rub at all! I'm extremely confused why this happens. I know negative offset will make the wheel rub weird. But why is it only happening on one side and not the other?
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I have a 2013 f250 6.2, I bought the truck brand new only have about 3000 miles on it and the other day I noticed that the drivers side front is lower then the passengers side front, the drivers side is about one inch lower, this doesn't seem right, also my drivers side front wheel seems to be pushed forward about one inch to the bumper that also doesn't seem right.
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On the F250 trucks, if I changed the mounting frame under the seat, will the passenger side seat fit on the drivers side? Basically, can I turn a passenger seat into a drivers seat?
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The used 2004 F-350 I bought has developed a driver's side front end howl between 45 and 60 mph over the last 1000 miles. I tried all the standard stuff, rebalanced tires, rotated tires, put on a set of tires from a friend's F-350, replaced wheel bearings, replaced ball joints and nothing has worked.
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I have a early 99 7.3, I have parked it for the winter an I had moved the truck the other day an have noticed it had leaked some oil, after looking for the source I found that it is leaking out of the #7 cylinder exhaust port. I know the oil is forsure in the manifolds usually burns off but now that it is not getting to operating temp it is staying a liquid. Where is this oil coming from?!!
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My drivers side armrest was broken when I bought it. Been searching for repair advise but have not found any. Instead of stopping so you can put your arm on it, it just falls down. I sorta wanted to see what I was getting into before taking it apart.
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99 F250 Lariat SC 5.4 with 98,980 miles. As the title says, I cannot open the rear drivers door. It seems that the cable has broken.
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I have an 04 F250 and the driver side windshield washer doesn't spray on the windshield. It sprays a stream up high on the windshield. Is it possible to replace the spigot where the spray comes out? Is there another solution?
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2011 f250 6.2. put it in the shop to have the rotors turned, and front brakes while they were under there. Now it pulls to the right whenever you apply the brakes. Can smell brakes on the left front after a short drive time. Replaced that caliper and it's still doing the same thing. I'm stumped at this point.
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Big trail of clear liquid on garage floor this morning. Truck is dripping on drivers side to rear of drivers side wheel well. Not brake fluid. Trans or antifreeze would have a color to it and a smell. None of that. Was quite humid last night and I did have truck out for about an hour run time. Trying to figure what the heck this is. Don't want to waste my or dealer service time if it's just AC moisture.
2016 f350 crew cab miles under 8k
Where the ac condensate drain is passenger or drivers side?
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After the years and 300k miles, the door hinge on the driver side door are getting some play. I wonder if i can replace just the pin on this hinge or the whole thing needs to be replaced. By the way, I am talking about a 00' F450 ...
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Just came back from breaking in new brake pads. Instructions called for five moderate to aggressive stops from 45 to 10mph, then five moderate stops from 35 to 5mph, then cool down and drive as normal. Drivers side door opened fine when I got in to do the test. It's been opening and closing OK since I bought the truck a few months ago. Got back from my break-in procedure, and the drivers side door wouldn't open more than about 8". Had to crawl over and exit from the passenger side. Found that the drivers side door is binding against the front fender about midway down.
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I have a '97 f350/460 efi with 210,000 miles on everything. the only oil it leaks is driver side cylinder head (very little). And that is my fault, a little impatient when changing head gaskets. Its gonna outlast me I am pretty sure. Anyway, fords rock...
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I think I have a clamp or something loose as i am dripping coolant from a black and silver hose/pipe on teh drivers side of the motor.
I can't see any clamps, well clamps i can recognize. how is this black pipe connected to the aluminum pipe? at that seam is where it's leaking.
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I have a 1999 f250 crew cab. About 6 months ago my drivers side window quit working in the up position(lucky me) and last week I got around to fixing it . I just ordered a new window motor instead of the whole regulator and installed it and it worked perfect for 4 days and today it suddenly quit again. What would cause a window motor to go out again so quick? Everything else seems to be fine and there is power to it so I'm assuming it's the motor.
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Yesterday evening my wife was following me down the road for a few hours, we are moving some stuff between houses. After 20 minutes she called me and said she could see occasional sparks under the truck,
Sparks?
A side of the road discussion determined she was seeing sparks near the drivers side rear shock absorber. I looked closely at that area and could not see anything that looked burnt. I felt the shock, axle tube, brake, brake line and E brake cable, but nothing was hot.
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My truck has an intermittent shake with a grinding/binding kind of noise. It seems to happen at lower speeds, generally when slowing down and turning. When I apply the brakes or speed up it seems to stop the noise.
The rubber/plastic seal on the back of the wheel hub is loose on both drivers and passenger side but I don't think that is the problem. I'm wondering if it is the u-joints or something.
The brakes look shiny and i don't see any scratches on them so I don't think there is a rock or something in there. I have the wheel hubs in the auto setting, and it is a 4x4. The truck is a early 99 7.3L with a leveling kit and 230k miles.
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Truck is 2007 6.0L 4 door F-250 FX4
So this started after some High water encounters around my area. All freshwater. Went to the store and then i notice the truck pulling Left and got home and checked brake temps and the driver front and rear were over 400*F passenger side was 150* or less. No trailer no load in the bed. I decided to clean everything. Pads are worn but still have life.
Rotors showed some signs of where the pad is dragging Not bad though just a small area close to the top hat. I cleaned pads, carriage, and clips and reinstalled everything with some anti seize on the edges of the pads where the clips are and at the same spots on the carriage.
Thought it was ok but the after more water and a day or two sitting the same thing happened again. It is only the drivers side and it's both front and rear. I am stumped on this one. Two calipers going bad at once? I need to tow a boat on Monday So I have got to fix this.
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What this might be? (see pic)....
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I have a v10 ticking on drivers side when I first take off in it. It doesn't do it idling and stops after you drive about a mile. I just had ford tune it up before this started so I took it back to have them check the plugs and they said it was a rod! Didn't sound right too me but I did check manifold bolts and they all was in place. Also if it was a rod would the noise go away???
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I have a '99 Super Duty Club Cab and the driver side door lock switch is not working. Passenger side switch locks and unlocks both doors just fine. Full disclaimer, the driver side actuator is wearing out and doesn't work all the time but I can always hear it engaging when the passenger switch is activated. So I know the driver side actuator is on it's way out and have plans to replace it.
That being said here is what I have done that leads me to believe the driver side lock switch is fine and the problem lies elsewhere....I just don't know where. If I swap the driver and passenger lock switches, the drivers side switch will work when plugged into the passenger side but the passenger switch will no longer work when plugged into the driver side. This tells me the switch is fine and my problem lies somewhere else. Where I should start to track this problem down?
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