Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Mystery Slip / Low Power During Tow
Feb 16, 2017
I've got an issue...
Symptoms:
1. Sudden slip feeling(like you just hit a small patch of black ice while powering up a hill.)
2. Turbo Pressure still spun up.(According to gauge)
3. Backfiring out of the airbox. (Sounds like a flat tire)
4. Lose a bunch of power. (Feels like a car running on 6 out of 8 cylinders)
Only happens at mid-throttle, during a long uphill run while towing. Doesn't happen when not towing or first thing out of gate when engine is cool. No problems going downhill either.
Situation: Towing a 10k pound 5'er, to Yosemite, I would get this random sudden lose of power, that accompanies a series of backfires out of the airbox during a long steady uphill drive.
Truck has 161k miles on it. Fluids are all brand new. I didn't see any smoke coming from the tail pipe, like turbo was done and letting oil into the engine. Oh also, no check engine lights.
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Drove the wife to work this morning. The turn off into town there was a lady stuck so I pulled over in the drifts. After putting in back in gear I had to get on it to get out of the drifts. Snow was blowing over the windshield, and I imagine throughout the engine bay.
After that it felt like it stayed in 2/3rd gear. I'd hit the pedal and it would redline and sort of accelerate jumping in and out of gears. So i slowed down to a stop. Accelerated slow and it was ok but when I got more on the pedal it would feel like it was slipping. Once I got in the driveway, she idled for about 15 mins while I shoveled out my spot. Once putting in gear again I had to rev it up for it to move.
Also reverse, had to rev it up to move it.
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A few weeks ago I noticed what seemed like a "slip" in my automatic transmission. Only happened a couple of times and I thought maybe it was just me imagining it or I didn't have the shift selector lever firmly in "D"rive. Then I went on a 4,000 mile trip pulling about 3,500 lbs. on mostly flat roads but it did include some 7% grades in the hilly parts... the truck performed flawlessly.
This is probably not related but ... after I got home, the truck sat for a few days and then I noticed a coolant puddle under the truck. Traced it down to what appeared to be a slow drip from a bad squeeze clamp on the large, lower rad hose connection. Replaced the squeeze clamp with 2 worm drive clamps and no leaking issue since.
Then last night, the tranny seemed to "slip". My short run across town started out OK. However, when I arrived at my destination, the diesel motor would rev to around 2500 rpm but the truck barely moved forward. It eventually did shift into second but also with high revs. It was the same feeling as if it were a manual tranny and you were giving it lots of throttle but only letting out the clutch a little bit (i.e. riding the clutch). This happened a couple of times last night. Also at a stoplight with the brakes on firmly, the truck was gently and rhythmically "rocking forward" as if the tranny was not fully disengaged.
When I worked through the gears shifting manually, the problem seemed to disappear and the truck responded going through the gears normally. Upon restart about an hour later, tranny shifted fine both in the city and at highways speeds on the way home.
B-I-L commented "sounds like your clutch is slipping". Not exactly sure what he meant as I had to leave. I'm hoping this will be a simple fix/adjustment and not the dreaded mechanical diode failure leading to a replacement tranny. Truck only has about 75,000 miles on it.
I'm suppose to head out on my annual vacation next week carrying a 3,500 lbs. truck camper and pulling a 3,000 lbs. cargo trailer with our gear. Obviously if the truck is sick, this trip can't happen. I know some of you would dive right in and start taking the tranny apart to repair it ... What is wrong with my transmission and what I should be doing next?
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I have a new to me 2000 F250 7.3 diesel with automatic. Truck has 185K miles and tranny is starting to slip occasionally. Do these trucks come with a OEM tranny cooler or do I need to add or upgrade the OEM one. Someone also told that there is something called "bulletproofing" the tranny on these trucks. BTW, what would be a reasonable cost to have a two wheel drive auto tranny done on my truck?
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I have a 2002 7.3 with the 4r100 173k miles. If your nice to it she drives fine, but if you get on it the torque converter will slip/stall kinda revs up like 300 rpm then slams really hard between 1st and 2nd. Other gears work fine. I've only had it not happen like 10 times since I've owned the truck ..... I don't really beat on it except for towing which I'm starting to do a lot of. Wondering if putting a new stock torque converter in it is worth it.? Not gona blow the bank on a TC unless I'm putting a brand new trans in the truck. Which I don't think it needs in the near future.
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I am experiencing what feels like a "bump in the rear" when initially starting from a dead stop. It feels like a car behind me tapped the bumper or that the truck "hunkers down" first, then moves. Tranny seems fine also. Once moving, there is no problem whatsoever. There atre no noises, leaks, or other symptoms. Also, when coming to a stop, it feels the same way just before the truck completely stops. If I drift forward a little, then apply the accelerator, it does not "slip" or hunker down.
Took it to the dealer and they claim that they can't find anything wrong and may just be the suspension releasing? The truck does this whether loaded or not?
2001 F250 CC Lariat SB 7.3
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Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.
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Yesterday wife left driveway and about a block away she phone truck "died". It actually starts and the engine is fine - shifting from park to reverse or any gear seems to have no effect. After tow home - i check and there are no codes (using ODBII scanner), the tranny fluid seems full and red. Looking carefully there is a slight rpm drop when idle into reverse or a gear other than neutral or park... but revving engine in any gear doesn't move the truck.
Is there anything else i should check before taking to a tranny shop? Its a 230k mile workhorse for the house but not critical if its down for a week or two. I have had it for 10 years and put the last 40k miles on it. Is there any diagnostic suggested given the symptoms?
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I posted this in the 6.0 section, but I thought maybe it should have been here since it's not really about the engine.
I bought a Kiwi2 BT OBD adapter and the Torque Pro app. Adapter does not power up when connected, key on or off.
Checked fuse #12 visually, looked good.
Verified power to booth the lighter plug and 12v accessory outlet.
Verified that the fuse I was pulling killed to lighter plug when I removed it.
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I have a 2006 Ford F250 super duty with the 5.4 liter gasoline engine. I started on a 120 mile trip last week and got about mile from home when it just shut down. I walked back home and got the wife's Tahoe and pulled it back home.
I got it in the shop and started to try & figure what had happened. I'm not a mechanic but I am a fair DIYer so I spent a lot of time with my friend GOOGLE. I originally expected the problem to be the fuel pump. I could not check fuel pressure because this model does not have the port in order to hook up the fuel pressure gauge. I could hear the pump run when the ignition was turned on so I looked a little deeper. I checked that it was firing and even shot some starting fluid into the breather to see if it would run with that, which it did.
At this point I turned back to the fuel supply. I learned from google that the injectors were supposed to have a constant 12 volts so out came the meter and low and behold no voltage on any of the injectors. I had already checked EVERY fuse on the truck and didn't find any burnt ones. I took the meter and rechecked all that had anything to do with the PCM (by reading the fuse description from the owners manual). My old eyes had actually missed the burnt one. Number 23 a 30 amp fuse. I replaced it and it immediately blew also.
I started checking continuity to ground on the injector plugs and found that I had a direct short to ground. I needed a wiring diagram for the injector circuit. I searched and searched some more for one that matched my vehicle. I even bought a repair manual from my local Auto Zone. This book didn't even have the diagram I needed! I finally found a diagram From Auto Zone's website for a 2000 expedition.
It at least gave me an idea of what other items were powered by this same circuit. I learned that the 02 sensors are on the same circuit so I crawled under the truck & started searching. I found that the up stream 02 sensor on bank 2 had gotten against the exhaust and created the short. I unplugged it and rechecked continuity to ground and found that my shot was no longer there. I took the sensor out repaired the burnt wire and reinstalled. I hooked everything back up and the ole truck fired right up.
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We have a 99 F250 193,000 miles with a 5.4 and a 5 speed manual with 3:73 gears and we tow a camper that weighs empty 6700 lbs. I knew something was off when we were bringing it home, there was no real umph in the motor. It wouldn't get past 55 in 5th gear on the express way, and just felt as though it was gonna blow up. Its a new to us truck and on paper it should tow this easily. We have a couple of trips under our belt now, and nothing has really changed. With gear and goodies I dont think we're even talking 7500 lbs. I like the truck, and don't really want to get rid of it. With in reason what should I expect to be able to tow and what can I do to better the situation.
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I just bought a 2000 Super Duty last week When I looked at it and test drove it, the doors unlocked with the fob. Then I bought it and the doors would not unlock with the fob. A day later, they would not unlock with the door controller. I can hear them clicking and see them move slightly. Where to start checking?
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My power window on the driver side works. But tops at 3/4 way down. Ivan repulse the button several times to get it all the way down and occasionally it will work on the auto down. But rarely. What's wrong. Probably switch. .. ..
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