Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Miles Per Gallon With New 6.7 Diesel F250 4x4
Nov 24, 2015
So, I've now had my 2015 F250 6.7 Diesel for about 2 weeks and I just turned over 1000 miles (damn I love driving this truck). And, I'm dying to find out if my mpg experience coincides with any other truck. With no load I am consistently getting right at 22.5 mpg at 70 miles per hour. With all in town driving and no load I'm holding right at 15 mpg. And I've noticed something else that seems odd. I'm actually getting a little worse mileage at 60 and 65 than I do at 70 miles per hour. What is going on there? Do these engines get a little better mileage as they get more miles on them?
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Recently my 2011 f250 sd 6.2s check engine light came on so I took it to my local dealer it was throwing a p0430 code, they said bank 2 cat converter wasn't do it's job so it needed to be replaced. I am concerned that there is an underlying cause of the premature cat fail. I pushed the issue with the service manager and he told me that's all they could do was replace the cat and refused to check anything else on the truck. Is this common? The truck runs and drives fine. I'm just concerned that they are just throwing parts at it to get it out the door.
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My 2008 f 250 with 75k on it is making some unreal noises at 45 to 65 miles per hour. Almost sounds like someone is tapping on the top of the cab.
2008 standard cab with utility body
2 wheel drive
75,000 miles
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Where this small leak coming from. Under my radiator hose. Took a pic of the leak.
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Last week I flipped the fan switch on and noticed that only hot air was coming from the vents, even with the control set to AC. The vent control switch seems to work fine directing the air but only hot air. The temperature control does not work. The exception is when I put it on max AC I get cold air. I can't be the only one.
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I've been looking at adding an additional diesel tank to my F-250, since the stock tank only holds some 38 gallons. However, I do not want to lose the space on the bed and have been looking at tanks that are mounted under the bed.
Most tanks I see are welded steel, completely overkill and accordingly priced. I'm wondering if a second stock tank pulled from a junkyard might fit in well, but haven't lowered mine yet to check the complete dimensions.
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My diesel truck is stuck at work. It cranks but it's not starting up. When I turn the key, the glow plug light takes a lot longer than usual to turn off. When I try to start the truck, it cranks fine and I get a lot of white smoke coming out the exhaust pipe. I've had this truck less than a year and I know very little about Diesel engines. I at least need to get it running long enough to get home. The parking lot at work is really busy pretty much 24/7 and towing it out of there would get pretty dicey.
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When I cold start my 99 F250 7.3L PowerStroke extended cab long bed manual, I get diesel smell in & out of the cab. What is causing it?
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When you turn the headlight switch to the headlight on position, you can pull it out exhibiting a positive click as if it is an additional switch for maybe optional fog lights. If the headlight switch is in the off or running lights only position, this will not pull out. I reviewed the elect. diagram but it does not show and addition circuit for the pull switch functionality?
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The heater blows cold air from the driver side only. Very cold. Vey hot on passenger side.I have read that this is likely a blend door issue. Comments? Fluids are full. I hear slight noises from under the dash like "click click" like a door is trying to activate?? Truck out of warranty. If it is the door I heard the driver side is not as tough to install. Again comments? Instructions?
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I have a 2002 Ford F2 50 that has a diesel leak on the back of the engine. I've already replaced the drain valve that was leaking. Then I noticed that the front of the engine was dry now but the back of the engine still has some pooling With a very small drip off the back of the engine between the transmission housing and engine. Not as bad as it was of course But still a small drip. Where this may be coming from? And how to fix it?
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So one day my 4 wheel drive just stopped working, when I put in 4hi nothing same with low, the light on the dash doesn't even pop up and it doesn't engage. I've done about everything I could think of doing besides replacing the motor for it and the wiring, I hate getting stuck...
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After finding that a battery was low and not getting charge, they found the alternator was bad. Replaced that. Next the battery that was low was able to be charged and did not effect the other battery. Both batteries have been load and charge tested and they both read 84% charged. I am told this is "good."
Next I swapped both fuel filters and did the oil change as well. I finally got a chance to get my friend to run his scanner on it. The results are injectors and FICM. The codes are PO261, 264, 267, 270, 273, 276, 279, 282, and finally 611. I guess this means that the FICM is toast.
I have tried salvage and no one has anything. I guess I still don't understand how this truck is capable of running daily with the computer throwing every code dealing with the injectors and the computer that runs them.
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I have a stock 2012 F250 6.7 Diesel. I was looking at getting new 18 or 20 inch rims for it and was wondering what the largest tire I could fit on those without rubbing on the truck would be. I know there are lots of topics on this but I could not find anything that applied to me. Most topics were on stock wheels.
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I have an 06 6.0. I have replace icp and ipr. I had a car tube with an hole so I replaced the tube connectors. No dtcs are present. The truck will crank and run fine but after thirty minutes of running it dies, it dies faster if I put it in gear and drive it, if I move it back to neutral it starts running ruff and I lose throttle response sometimes completely and sometimes on a minute or two. I also fixed a fuel leak around the 6mm plug on pump, replaced both fuel filters.
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I have had this truck for about 3 weeks now, and twice on hot days (95F) it wouldn't start. Both times I had not driven the truck that day, so this would be a "cold start." No "idiot lights" came on to give me any indications. The Haynes Manual does me no good on this. Other than this issue, the truck runs and drives great.
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As of yesterday, Ford has just informed me that my problem is not their problem. The engine and a turbo on my 2012 Ford F-350 Super Duty went south at 114,000 miles; 14,000 miles north of the warranty. The cost of repairs from the dealership is high. I don't have that kind of money, especially since I ran my own transportation business with my truck and have been effectively put out of a job since the end of October, 2014.
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2014 f250 with 2500...My cruise went out on my new platinum. Cruise symbol comes on, goes green when I hit set but will not hold speed. I know this would be an easy warranty fix but here's my problem. My regular local dealer, which I bought my 3 fleet truck and all personal autos from didn't get this sale. In fact he was 5k higher then the dealer 120 miles away and I brought him written proof. He was very angry and down right rude when I nicely told him I couldn't pass up 5k. He told me that was just bad business by the other dealer and hung up on me.
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This F250 has 60130 miles on it. A week ago the transmission would not engage and we had to have it towed to the dealership, so we called roadside assistance. Finally getting the report from the dealership we are verbally told that the transmission pump failed and the clutches have burnt.
The work is submitted for warranty. Last night we get a phone call that they are denying the warranty because the truck has been neglected/abused. So I asked for the service paperwork. The service paperwork states, SEALS FAILED ALLOWING CLUTCHES TO FAIL, NEEDS CLUTCHES, SEALS, AND PUMP TO REPLACE.
When I call to get clarity on the definition of neglect and the justification, I am told the inspector was shown burnt clutches and a muddy truck. When I ask about the pump and seals, I am told the inspector was never shown 1 failed seal, and the pump was fully assembled and did not appear defective.
So I call the dealership back and ask for an explanation and they tell me they will research it and get back to me. When they call me back their story is not just that the clutches failed, nothing else and that they are just replacing the pump and seals because it is recommended. The notes given by the technician to the warranty folks now state that the clutches burnt and the truck was muddy so he knows we abused it.
It would slip and then knock into gear. Transmission was service 5000 miles ago by dealer, we were told it was good, in good working order, fluid looked great, no issues.
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Just had my truck in for an oil change at dealership and wanted them to check for oil leak seeing as I started getting drops on my driveway. When I pick up the truck they told me the front crank seal was leaking and possibly the rear main seal. Front was gonna be 650 bucks and the rear was gonna be 1020. Ended up taking truck to local diesel shop and they replaced front crank seal for 300 and said the rear main looked fine. Tech also told me the old seal looked worse than some that came out of engines with 3 times as many miles. 6.4L ...
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What the heck went wrong going 75 mph down the freeway and hear your engine falling out of the truck. I have a 2000 F250 Diesel 7.3 which I bought new the last of 1999 and have 356,000 miles on the engine. I got the s--t scared out of me yesterday. Anyhow I pulled over and killed the engine got it back home and this is what I found.
The bolts come out of the torque converter all but two and they were about to come out too as they were loose. I have never seen anything like this before in the way the studs in the converter where put in. If you look at the pictures you can see that there looks to be an insert in a hole and then the stud put in and drilled with two roll pins on each side. I think that some one has modified this converter to fit this truck. I did have the transmission rebuilt around 200,000 miles ago from a very know transmission shop. Later I am back on the road.
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