I thought i heard this yesterday when i left work but i was tired and said its in my head, THEN i go to leave right now and sure enough its a real sound, you can hear it very well through the front grill and then if you turn the volume up you can hear a ticking sound ever half a second or so, it also speeds up when i was pulling on the throttle cable. And after the truck fully warms up it goes away.......
View 14 RepliesI have a loose, binding, metal on metal sound on my steering wheel shaft. I have removed the steering wheel, replaced the clockspring, because when I removed wheel clockspring was in pieces and I thought that might be the issue. Guess not, because I'm still having problem. Other than having to remove or replace the whole steering column...
View 2 RepliesWhat we have is a 2011 F-350 with the ambulance package (obviously) and it has started making a very annoying sound from the front end. It has been into two different Ford Dealerships and they have not been able to remedy this issue. What happens is, when we are backing and turning, the front end makes a bad metal on metal grinding noise. When going straight down the road no issue just turning while backing. I know this is an ambulance and has the ambulance package but I think from the cab forward should just be all ford right?
View 2 RepliesJust last night, out of the blue, I've got an odd rumble at idle. The noise goes away under load and any time the rpm's are up over ~1300. It sounds like metal on metal vibration, but I don't see any loose exhaust parts.
I've looked at threads saying possibly a broken flex plate. Other than the noise, would there be any other symptoms? I don't notice any loss of power. I suppose I could pull the inspection cover and take a look, but I don't have any experience with auto tranny's and don't really know what I'm looking for.
2001 f250 7.3 crew
So, Saturday my abs lite comes on. Later that day I hear metal to metal sound for a couple of secs then it stops. Then the next day while driving I get intermittent sounds that sound like I'm dragging metal down the pavement. I see nothing but I'm thinking hub bearing. (Needle)
I remove the hub assembly from the knuckle and can find nothing wrong. I even picked up a new hub just on case. Now I'm stumped. Can't figure out what the sound was or is. Axle has a little play going into the housing but figure it would have due to the only thing holding it in place is the hub.
The only thing left in the area that could make the sound is major --the actual gears to to the front end. If the bearing isn't causing the metal grinding sound I've no other idea other than that....
My 98 CR-V is now making a metal on metal ticking noise. The noise only occurs when the car is in motion. The noise seems to occur about every two revolutions of the wheels when moving slowly; I can't determine if the ratio holds true at higher speeds. The noise seems more prevalent when standing on the car's passenger side, but not significantly. The car has 225K miles.
View 6 RepliesThere are 2 metal straps going left to right between the rear seat mounts. They don't appear to do anything. The seat doesn't touch them. The mounts are bolted to the floor so they don't give support. What they are for?
View 13 RepliesMy automatic shift selector was extremely loose. Wasn't the two bolts up behind the dash. Turns out that there is a metal cylinder with a cutaway that seems to have fallen out of the selector housing. One of the edges of this cylinder broke off as you can see in this pic:
What is this piece called and can I get a replacement at autozone/pepboys/ect?
I have a 2001 F350 with a 7.3 diesel and automatic trans. I purchased it about 100,000 miles ago. It is all stock as far as I know. The mileage on it was about 14-15 on the road and I decided to put a chip in it. I was somewhat leary of putting too much power to this old of a rig. I put a TS Performance chip in it. It seems to have more power. I am towing a 30 ft. Gulfstream Seahawk I think around 10,000 lbs. When I started up a hill it made a different noise like a screeching noise when I pushed it. When I back off a bit the noise goes away. When I put it back to stock setting the noise is not there just the normal downshift and increased RPM. Not sure how to describe the noise but sounds like a metal bearing type noise. I get the same rush of air or what ever that sound is when it changes back to a higher gear. Is this sound normal or what might it be. It sounds normal when not pressing it.
View 6 RepliesI may have got a few shavings in the engine while drilling and tapping a hole for my boost gauge on the Y pipe. I am sure I got 95% of the shavings out but am now worried about the 5% that may have fell inside.
View 8 RepliesI trying to see if this is something that is a easy fix or mayor work. Leak coming from that metal housing behind alternator. Does this housing came off? or do I need to take out the intake out? .
View 8 RepliesI bored and tapped one of the spark plug holes in my Triton engine. And I used a long aluminum rod attachment for my air compressor to blow out the metal bits from inside the cylinder. I started with a full tank of air, and used it all up to try and get everything out that I could. But with my bore-scope I could see a lot left over along the edges of the piston. So two more times I filled up, and emptied the air tank (15 gallons, 150psi). Some more of the chips came out, but after the second time there were still some chips there, and the third time didn't work much.
My bore-scope doesn't have the best resolution, but I think there are a few chips that are stuck between the piston and the cylinder wall. Since there were only a few, and they are aluminum, I decided to do what I saw another youtuber do. I just started the engine for a few moments without the spark plug, so I might blow out any remaining chips (although he did it without first using compressed air at all.)
That was the first cylinder I bored, tapped, and installed an insert into. But for the other cylinders, I would like to avoid any metal bits left in the cylinder. But I can't think of any way to prevent some from wedging themselves between the piston and wall (if that's what is happening).
I have a 2007 hyundai sonata, this car is my daily driver. I put 180 miles on it a day around trip. Currently has 180,200 miles on it. Last Friday on my trip home when i turned right I heard a metal on metal sound. I slowed down went straight and it went away. Talked to a few people and I think it may be the wheel bearing. Even if I hit a road reflector it starts up. It's the front left wheel. Get on the breaks it goes away.
So my question is... Wheel bearing??? And can I replace the whole hub and fix the problem or do I have to try and press the bearing out?
I have a 2003 Toyota Solara 4 cyl. auto. transmission. I recently had the head replaced. Now it is making a metal on metal sound near the drivers side of the engine. It makes the sound during idle, when I change gears, and the sound increases when I rev the engine. What could it be?
View 8 RepliesMy 2011 2.4l Sonata made a metal on metal sound suddenly the other day. About 4 days ago, I drove about 2 hours away from where I live, Mostly highway, about 80mph to a go kart race. Got out of the car for a while and came back in and was pulling away to run the store and as i started to approach the first stop sign maybe 500-600 ft from where i was parked, i heard a bad metal on metal sound, came to a complete stop at the sign and it stopped. Went back to the race after driving to the store about 5 miles away.
Got in the car to leave and same thing, just to the stop sign 500-600ft away. Drove home like i said mostly highway, and didn't hear a thing. Today, about 4 days later, I drove to Chicago O'hare airport, about 30min away, and it was fine the whole way there. However on the way back, after about 20-25min, I heard it again. So I came to complete stop as I was forced to by a traffic light as I was taking my exit off the highway, and It started making that sound again. So i came to a complete stop at the light and started moving again when it turned green and couldn't heard a thing.
At 75K my passenger side rear brakes were making metal on metal sound. I was really surprised as I have always learned that the front brakes take 80% of load and they always go out before the backs. So I took the wheel off and sure enough the pads were metal on metal. Changed everything out. (new rotors). I then went over to the driver side rear brake. Looks brand new. The pistons were barely out. I figured this caliper is bad. (I haven't change yet)
When I drive I can hear a very faint metal on metal sound when I brake. VERY FAINT. So with 75K miles on I figure the front brakes are due. Today I took the wheels off and inspected them. Tons of pad left on both of them. If I didn't know better I would say a brake job had been done very recently. (I've owned the car new so I know they have not had a brake job) However after reading many articles on this site I found a thread where one user said he was changing his front brakes for the first time with 110K on them and the pads still had 10K left in them. So the fact that my front pads are still pristine at 75K may not be a big deal (or not as big as I thought. Also I am not hard on brakes.)
However I'm not sure what is going on. Why would the passenger rear brake be metal on metal at 75K and the three other pads are like new. Is the passenger rear the only one working (or working much harder than the others) meaning the other three are bad? Or is the rear passenger bad and the other three are good? I have a working knowledge of cars but I am by no means a mechanic.
I picked my R up three weeks ago tomorrow. I took it in this morning because there has been brake noise from day one. The noise was a scraping, metal on metal sound that diminished a fair amount when the brakes were warm. I only got a very brief conversation with the service agent at the dealership this afternoon, and all he told me is that they had to order in new brakes. I don't know if it's just pads, or calipers or rotors or the whole deal! I'll get the whole scoop tomorrow.
View 5 RepliesI have got this noise which sounds like a light skimming of metal on metal. It sounds like a roller (airport baggage) spinning. It can be heard mostly when driving next to a wall or past parked cars. I suspect it being the bearing in either the water pump, idler pulley or even alternator. The car has 330000 kms but it is serviced regularly in which all fluids have been changed over time. I just want to drive through a tunnel and not hear any non harmonic sounds coming from the front.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2011 Santa Fe AWD Limited. 90,000 miles. I have a strange sound I need identifying. At first I thought the sound was my AC depressurizing, but it's not that. It sounds similar, but has a faint metal-on-metal jingle sound to it, like something is rubbing or something is rotating and intermittently hitting something just slightly. The mechanic went in to change the water pump because it was leaking, and he thought that the water pump when rotating was rubbing because the rubber ring/gasket was failing, therefore making that sound. Not it. Tired rotated and new brake pads put on. Still there. To be clear, the mechanic never said he heard the sound. I just told him about it.
I can hear the sound when I turn the car on and put it in reverse start backing up. I can hear it when I let off the brake (driving and in park), which lead me to believe that it could have been the pressure in the Master Cylinder or ABS. I don't know now because it does it intermittently when I am driving down the road with no brake applied. When I park, I put the car in Park, get off the brake and just listen. And I can hear it. When it is in park it is more rhythmic, with two or three second breaks in between. kshhh kshhh kshhh kshhh. (I hope you like my poor attempts at sound effects.)
Is it the ABS system? Don't tell me it's transmission related. I just bought this car (used at 87,000 miles) and already had the struts done, the water pump and drive belt done. For what it's worth, this car's passenger and back seats vibrate at 60+. Not sure if that has anything to do with this sound, but thought I would mention it. New struts and tire rotation did nothing.
I own a 2010 Toyota Prius that recently developed a metal-on-metal whining scraping sound when moving. It does not make sound when the vehicle is stationary, and it's intermittent - which makes me discount the rock-in-disc-rotor idea (not eliminate it, mind you). It's quite loud when it occurs, able to hear it over the stereo. Luckily I was near work at the time, so I went there - but the shop can't even look at it until Monday evening - so I am a bit panicked.
View 8 RepliesI am in the process of replacing my water pump. After I removed the pump, I found quite a bit of metal-on-metal wear between the impeller and the water pump housing. Is this common?
I've been running a coolant filter on my system for years now, so hopefully its been effective at collecting some of the metal that has clearly been worn away. Either that, or this is a sign that the filter isn't working at all!
I'm a little worried that the new pump will scrape the scars left from the old pump.