2006 6.0 superduty showing low circuit codes on all 8 cylinders so i checked the FICM and it has 48v when key is on and while turning engine over. What to check next?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2006 f-350 6.0 and i went to fill up my truck with diesel. After that the truck did not start. Currently has the code p2285 - injector control pressure sensor circuit low. I tried disconnecting sensor, still no start.
I have the torque pro app and another 6.0 that I use for comparison. Check power at ficm 48 volt, flp 11.5v, FVP 11.5v. Hpop while cranking shows 1400 psi. removed oil filter and see low pressure oil ok, fills up reservoir. ipr at crank about 65%. fuel filter full of fuel.
Replaced the dummy plug on passenger side because originally hpop was very low psi 12. after replacement it went up to 1400 on cranking. What should I be looking at next, should I be removing ipr? should i be looking at crank sensor or cam sensor? Just installed 2 new batteries also because my dad kept cranking the truck until it died.
Checked to make sure fuel cut off relay not triggered, Ok. The truck has been having long cranks before it died. Also right now the injector cycling is 10 seconds long while on my other 6.0 it is about 4.
I just bought a 99 F250 Super Duty with the V10. When I bought it, I knew it had 2 misfiring cylinders (4 and 10) because it was throwing P0304 and P0310 (only 2 codes), but wasn't concerned as I've had to take care of my wife's Escape with it's misfiring cylinders. I replaced the 2 coils and replaced the plugs with Motorcraft plugs from O'Reilly's, cleared the codes and she ran fine for a couple of days. Now I'm getting an intermittent misfire, it's only occasionally throwing a pending code of P0300 which is "Multiple Random Misfire".
I'm fairly certain it's an issue on the electrical side because if it were an issue with the injector or injectors it would be constant regardless of RPM... right? As it is now, it basically does it between 55-65 while in overdrive trying to pull a hill or slightly accelerate. Once it's shifted out and the RPMs go up to 2k+ it runs like a champ... and it kills my fuel economy. The way it's behaving is just like when a coil is bad, but it's saying it's not identifying a specific cylinder (saying it's multiple) and it doesn't always do it (about 60% of the time).
I checked the MAF and it's very clean (looks almost new), checked the vacuum lines (those I found without a manual) and couldn't find any leaks and when I changed the plugs all the plug wells were dry.
SO this truck came into the shop yesterday with a really bad misfire. pulled the codes and got a misfire codes for cylinders 1-6 and also p1450 (unable to bleed fuel tank vacuum) and p068a (pcm/ecm power relay de-energized too early) i found a TSB related to the issue, TSB 10-25-7 i did as the tsb told me to do and pulled valve covers to check out the rocker shaft rollers and inspect for any signs of surface deformation or fatigue. they were fine on both sides.: ive got spark in all cylinders. fuel pressure was right around 55-60 the gauge was fluctuating pretty good. checked for bad fuel or water in fuel ect. fuel seems to be good. pulled O2s incase of plugged cats still ran like crap.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2009 f250 with 5.4l 3v. have had the truck only about 6 months. it started missing about a month after I got it. I replaced all 8 cops and all 8 sp. The truck ran excellent until 11/29, then I got a cel and the truck started running really bad. Found 3 misfiring cylinders. Changed all 3 cops again and that did nothing. Pulled the injectors and found 2 of them were clogged, replaced those also. Still no change was told by someone that the ecm/cpu may need to be reset, did that also. Still no change. There are no codes present but still has the multiple misfires.
View 9 RepliesI've got a 2015 F250 with a 6.2 Liter with no compression on 3 cylinders. The dealer just diagnosed it and has not opened it up yet but the mechanic says it is probably a broken valve spring...that it is not uncommon in this engine.
My concern is not repairing the spring my concern is what a "free spinning" piston in 3 cylinders does to the life expectancy of the main and connecting bearings in this engine. I have rebuilt engines in the past and I have bought re-built from auto parts stores and from Jasper and I have never had any last more than 60-70K miles. It seems to me that even with very little mileage on the engine with three of eight pistons jumping around under no pressure that there could be considerable scarring of the bearings or bearing surfaces. I am no expert by any stretch but this is an engine in atruck that has less than 22K miles on it and I ain't real happy about opening it up let alone trusting for the next 280K miles that the bearings have more wear on them than they should have. It was only driven about 20 miles total like this but that is a lot of pressure on a highly tuned and pretty darn precision machine.
This is the newest vehicle I have owned since 1988 and I meant for it to be the last pickup I drive (I drive 'em til the wheels fall off) but I am not overly confident that even if this is a one off problem that it hasn't caused even more damage that won't show up for another 100K miles or so???
I have a 2000 ford f250 5.4 2v that's been having a shaking at idle and no power what so ever. I tried diagnosing it myself and came up with nothing. I finally decided to take it to the dealer and they are telling me that the right side has no compression on 3 cylinders. They want almost 7000 for a new engine. I was wondering if it was possible to get away with just putting a new head on the right side?
View 13 RepliesMy 2006 F-250 SD with 6.0 diesel has some sort of cut-out for the heater circuit, and possibly for the A/C as well. This truck was probably a fleet vehicle for the Houston Port Authority. Didn't really notice this peculiarity until it got really cold outside. If I start the truck up and let it idle for 10-15 minutes the water and transmission temperature get up to the normal operating ranges but the heater/defrost circuit does not heat up. Cannot defrost the windshield.
If I drive to the end of my driveway, about 600 feet, the heater/defroster starts putting out good heat. When driving, if I have to stop at a stoplight, or any other pause, with the truck still in gear, the heater output starts to cool down. I suspect that this feature was incorporated in the circuitry at the factory to prevent the driver from sitting still to keep warm. The truck MUST BE MOVING to allow heat or defrost to operate. The blower motor operates and it doesn't matter if the truck is in gear or not.
This is my first Ford. 2008 6.4L 165K miles full delete. Bought this truck at auction already deleted. Found an H&S pod mount instructions in glove box and so I am thinking it had their software loaded to it. I knew it had sat a while, but did fire up no problems. I have already replaced all fuel filters (actually learned I did them backwards, and did not cycle the key) and had no issues re-starting! I've put at minimum 30 minutes but no more than 1 hour run time on this thing post filter change. I'll get to the gritty. . This all started when I pulled a P0201 code for Injector Cylinder 1.
I pulled the valve cover to troubleshoot the injector, following a post I saw few days back. All checked out fine with the #1 compared with #3, and so I cracked loose the fuel line going to the #1 injector. The line was dry and thought it was strange, but I had changed out the FRP sensor prior and remember no fuel came out then either. Before pulling into the garage the truck was running rough but thought this was due to a P0193 code FRP pressure Circuit High (again). So I put the line back on, tightened the darn out of it.
I know these things see a 26K psi at times. I depressed the Schrader valve at the fuel cooler and got only a minute bit of air out. I didn't think this was enough, and so I took the Schrader valve out, hard lesson learned. I re-installed it and I fashioned a homemade tool connected the Schrader valve with a ball valve to cycle the key-on and purge out the air. I have ran the batteries down cranking trying to get it to fire. I am now getting no more air bubbles.
Had to get another diesel pickup to keep juice on the batteries. After 3 hours, 6 hours total, cannot get this thing to fire off! Am I missing something simple? Everything I have done to this point before reading the forum I have done backwards and all has been fine! Could it be that just now I am seeing the effect of the filter change being done backwards? On my scanner I can see the live FRP, it has to be the cmd, it is sitting at 29Kpsi. At this point should I re-pull the filters and start fresh?
uper Duty 6.2L ... Alright, the loud cam phaser or fuel injector noise/tap..Is this just a cold weather issue or is this going to be like this all the time under start up? Mine was quiet until now (1200 miles) now under cold start loud knock/tap sound. Seemed to go away when truck warmed up and was idling. Was or Is there any fix to this noise.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2012 F250, 6.2L, Crew Cab, FX4 with a little over 77,000 miles on it. I bought it used from a Ford dealership last summer. Prior to now, I've only had one issue with it and that was squirrel/rodent induced. Something chewed through the wiring harness right before the connection to the #7 cylinder. There was enough left over wire to solder it back together and put heat shrink around each wire.
It ran fine up until last weekend. The wife and I went to a store, she was driving and parked like a total jerk right in the front area of the parking lot. When we got back in the truck, she started it up and it was just running rough with hardly any power. My first thought was someone dumped something into the gas due to her amazing parking, but there were no smells or residue of anything near the gas cap when we got home only a couple miles away.
When I got home I ran my code scanner and found 300, 301, 305, 307, and 308. I dumped a bottle of ISO-Heet in it, let it sit for a bit then cranked her up and ran it for a few miles to the gas station and filled up...about 25/26 gallons, I don't remember...I was a little above 1/4 tank when this all started. No change in performance and the codes were all still the same. I pulled the MAF, it looked clean, but I wiped it down anyways and threw it back in. No change. I then changed all the plugs. This took care of 301 and 305 but 300, 307, and 308 were still coming up. I then picked up two new coil packs for cylinders 7 and 8, threw them on and still no change.
I sat with it running on a flat surface for a little while revving the engine randomly for about 15 minutes, during this I noticed a fast tapping noise at about 3400 RPM, it went away quickly with no changes in the gauges on the dash. I cant really tell where it's coming from, but kinda sounds like its under the middle of the truck. While sitting there I ran the codes again, and now its back to 300, 301, 307, and 308. I'm now at a loss of what to even look at...
I've also checked the voltage coming off the harness at the connector to the coil packs...just under 11 volts. I've searched all over for what that voltage is supposed to be, but have failed miserably in my searches.
My cylinder heads as well as the camshafts on my 2005 F550 are grinding down, now I need to replace them again, I bought the truck and had the same issue. I am just curious if the oil cooler is the one at fault since i just replace before I knew of the issue.
View 7 Replies1999 F350 & lately if I don't plug it in even if it's like 40 out for like the first 30 sec sounds like its only running on 4 cylinders than it'll just even out & alls good. thinking glow plugs here. I did replace them last fall unfortunately with the cheep ones that I been now reading bad things about.
View 2 RepliesI got to replace mine because the hood won't stay up on it's own and is heavy to lift. I was wondering if these things fail often. Mine is an '08.
View 5 RepliesI have a f350 2000 4x4 automatic 170.000 miles. Service light on and OD light flashing. I have code p1747 "EPC solenoid short circuit"
This code make that the engine runs slow without power and hard shifting. I change all the solenoid body and check all wiring.
Later using a voltmeter i separate EPC solenoid wiring and see that have 5 volt. If I don't accelerate more 2000rpm OD light is not flashing and truck works normal but slow.
When I accelerate more than 2000rpm OD light begin to flash and transmission fail more. I check that EPC wires mark about 0 volts when OD light is flashing. Transmission hydraulic system seems to be ok because oil is very red and clean. Maybe another sensor is making this failure....
2001 f350 7.3 Changed front injector drivers side inspected all 4 glow plugs on this side turned motor over my hand 5 time reinstalled plugs put back together hooked both plugs back up started truck and no of the cylinder on drivers side are firing checked them with temp gun!! what did i not do or do wrong.
View 4 RepliesNew plug on right, lower bank 2 plug on left
Started getting a P0300 and various misfire codes for random cylinders. Truck has 95,000 kilometers so figured I would change the plugs. Several of the plugs on the lower bank on both sides were pretty much toast. Most of the plugs on the top looked good. All of the plugs had a small deposit where the spark hits the ground probe. Picture is typical plug from lower side. changing the plugs should make a big difference in how she runs and eliminate the codes.
Took right on 4 hours same as dealer said it would. I would have got it quicker but it was not a race.
Alright, so here's what I've got: 2002 Ford F-350 7.3L - Unmodified, Stock, no chip, no tuner, 130K miles, been run with off-road diesel most of its life as a farm truck.
Here's what it's doing: Serious misfire in cylinders 4 and 6. At idle, mild miss. Throttle from 0 to 50 percent, runs well. Throttle from 50 percent to 100 percent, heavy miss, chugging, white smoke out the exhaust.
Here's what we've done so far:
New UVC Harnesses with updated pigtails.
Cleaned Fuel Filter Mixing screens.
Cleaned out fuel tank.
Cleaned bowl.
Changed Fuel Filter.
Changed IDMs
Changed Crank Sensor.
Inspected injectors while running to see if oil is pumping (it is).
No improvement. Where to go from here. Pulled codes, and it says Cylinder #4 and #6 High to Low Side open. We don't know what to do at this point.
I have a 2006 F-350. I got a code p2623 ipr circuit open. I ordered a new one and currently waiting on it. I pulled the old one and the screen has been replaced already. How often do these valves go bad? Is there anything else I should check?
View 6 Replies2007 F350 6.0 .. I let the truck sit for about a week went out to start it truck cranked right up then died now the truck wont start truck was running fine until this I wasn't having any starting problems. the codes are all eight injectors low circuit tested ficm had 48.3 volts...
View 1 RepliesWithin the last few weeks my super duty battery has been dead after sitting a few days. Draw is around 80 ma. When I pull the air bag fuse it drops to 10 ma. Before I tear in to this thing need to know where to start.
View 3 Replies