Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Low Idle In Gear / Occasional Stalling When Going Into Neutral
Jun 14, 2016
My '05 (134k, rwd, V10) has had an occasional issue with stalling when going into neutral. The normal idle speed in park or neutral is 700. In drive or reverse it dips down to 350 or so and then evens out at 500. The stalling is not all the time, perhaps 2 out of 10 shifts. It is slightly worse with the A/C running. Every time it stalls, it records a P0506 error which I then clear out with my ScanGauge II.
I have done some research and have replaced the air filter (super dirty), fuel filter (not sure on how old) and cleaned the MAF tonight. For the MAF, I pulled it from the air tube and gave it a bunch of squirts of MAF cleaner. I did this 3 times letting it dry in between cleanings. I have run a bottle of SeaFoam through it, as well. The idle seems to be very smooth and it pulls my 7k travel trailer without issue. That did get a little better with the new air filter and fuel filter.
I went for a ride tonight and the problem persists. I'm taking it in to have the A/C recharged next week and will have the shop diagnose it. I came across this post which details my issue exactly. The steps are to reprogram the PCM and TCM, and possibly replace the throttle body. Is the reprogram something an independent shop can/should do?
P0506 idle lower than expected on 05 ford f350 v10
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I have a 2001 F250 V10. It idles around 1k and when stopped at stop lights or when put in reverse it stalls. I have replaced IAC, fuel filter, tranny filter, oil filter, plugs, coil boots, tranny fluid, oil, air filter, and PVC along with the PVC hose. I'm totally stumped. It doesn't stall if I do a rolling stop.
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I just purchased a 2012 F250 XLT with the 6.2. It has 38,000 miles on it. Yesterday I noticed, when coming to a stop, the idle will sometimes drop below 500. The engine will stumble a little, then the RPM will jump up to 1,000. Twice it has stalled on me. When it stalls, the engine will restart just fine. No codes in the computer or warning lights on the dash.
I will be bringing it back to carmax, as it is under their 30 day warranty still. Hopefully they will be able to figure out something. I am thinking either the TB needs to be cleaned, or there is an issue with the canister purge valve. I saw the TSB for the CPV but it doesn't cover my truck.
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I have a 2014 f250 with the 6.2 and just turned 13,800 miles. I tend to drive in tow haul a lot, while not towing because I like the shift pattern better and saves on brakes while stopping. Last night I slowed to a stop sign, came to complete stop. Went to take off slowly like always and the truck was like in neutral, looked down and the indicator showed 5th gear. Let off and watched it go to 1st and took off no problem. This all took only half a second or so, seemed fine after that. What might of happened?
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Bought this truck a few months back. Nothing but problems. I always thought it has felt a little underpowered and hesitant. I chalked it up to being a 5.4l in a f250. Well now im thinking it has been a symptom all along.
Lately, the truck has been stalling at stops. Randomly, but not often. The truck idles at 750rpm when I start it, but after driving and then coming to a stop while in overdrive it idles at 400rpm. This seems too low to me.
It hesitates occasionally when giving it throttle. Just today it got really bad and was almost unresponsive. I would hit the throttle and it would just idle while randomly kind of shooting up in RPS and shuddering. It finally produced some error codes, it looks like, but I am afraid to drive it all the way to the autozone.
I am thinking TPS. Is the TPS attached to the pedal or is the TPS attached to throttle body under the hood? I've read some conflicting stuff about this. The good news is that if it is the TPS then it should act like a whole new truck after I replace it.
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Here is this wonderful 5.4 's issue now, sometimes it will idle rough, sometimes it wont. sometimes it feels like it wants to stall, other times not. if im driving about 30mph up a hill around 1700 rpm, the engine feels like a bucking horse, it will kinda want to produce the power, but cant seem to find it till the trans drops to a lower gear. With this engine power loss is unacceptable because it came out of the factory with no power, i cant afford to loose more.
there is no check engine light. its been doing this on and off for a week. i dont drive it much, may 15 miles a day. i thought maybe it was bad gas , i had it sitting for a month, but since then ran almost 2 tanks of gas through it. Seems to act the worst when driving it, then letting it idle for 5 mins, then drive it again, that's when its very noticeable. no smoke from exhaust, no mixing of oil and anti freeze, plugs are a year old, filter is new.
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The 2003 F250 5.4 Superduty has no power and keeps stalling. If I floor the gas it just stalls. I've replaced the pcv valve and line, the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump, and cleaned the tank, changed out the gas, added Lucas, and it just won't run right. Desperate, and no codes are coming up...
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I have a 2002 f350 5.4l that has stalling issues, first some back round. Last week I pulled up the a stop light and the truck stalled I figured it was a iced fuel line as it was very cold so I put a bottle of drygas in the tank. Evidently there was a lot of moister in there because as soon as I started the truck check engine light came on and truck would not idle at all. I got through that tank and am now on my second tank. It is better but the truck will still stall when stopped at light (has never stalled in park or on the road only while stopped in drive) the check engine also light went off halfway through the first tank. What next?
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Ok I bought this truck with a bad engine 5.4 3v had rod knocking. I rebuilt engine got it all back together and in truck. I did replace cam phasers and solenoids. After driving 20 mins or so it would start the phaser knock at idle in gear so I put a oil pressure gauge on it and cold had 55 psi after running 10 mins or so had 15 psi at idle then would drop to abought 9 psi. I am thinking I got bad cam bearings or something for some reason don't know why. I did it but I took oil cap off where you pour in the oil. Had to force it off it was pulling that much vaccum ones cap was off oil pressure jumped up to 25 psi. What could be causing this.
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So, in my 99 Bounder RV (F53 chassis), V10
I think it has a 4R100 transmission in it (I have not verified this).
I had the oil and filter changed about 10K ago.
Runs and shifts fine .... then I stop and idle with it in gear (say stopped in traffic for a few minutes).
Now the thing shifts super hard! I actually get rubber in all gears.
So I pull over, shut it off. Restart the unit and everything is fine again.
It does this very consistently!
I went to the local transmission shop. They said with 110K in an RV it could be anything and I should think about letting them rebuild it.
Now that is something I would do ... not diagnose a problem and just rebuild it. I thought a "professional" would actually look for the problem first.
I don't want to rebuild the transmission if there is small item that will fix this.
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On my '99's 5.4l with 55k, I've got a slight misfire occasionally with lower rpms and higher torque - basically going up a grade that's not quite steep enough for the truck to downshift, but clears up right away the instant it downshifts and gets some rpm. It generally seems like weak spark, or perhaps an injector spray pattern such that it doesn't always get fired off.
To give some history, the truck had more or less sat in a farm garage for ~5 years driven maybe once a quarter before I picked it up ~2 years ago. When I first picked it up, it misfired all over the place. I didn't think much of it, considered it gummy fuel, and dumped a couple cans of SeaFoam in the tank, replaced all 8 plugs (pretty sure with motocraft plugs though I don't explicitly remember), checked my air filter, etc and the misfires cleared right up and it purred nice and smooth like a happy little motor. That was at ~45k, or 10,000 miles ago.
Now it's starting to hiccup again and I'm not entirely sure why. The plugs should be nowhere near burned up yet and there are no lights on the dash. It's never come close to overheating and the only oil leak I know of is that famous small drip on the inside-rear of the passenger side bank drips on the exhaust header just enough to stink every so often when I come to a stop. I don't believe I'm burning any oil and certainly not near enough oil to foul a plug. Including that drip, I go about 3,000 miles before needing to add a quart. I've dumped 2 bottles of Berryman's in the fuel tank and it seems to work, but it's definitely not gone, so I'm thinking it's probably not oil related and more fuel/spark.
I'd had it in the back of my head to replace the fuel filter as well, but I hadn't gotten around it yet as it seems to be getting fuel at high rpm's just fine. I went ahead and bought the filter the other day and plan to install it shortly. It doesn't really make sense that that's what it would be, but I figure I'm due and it's worth a shot. If they were old plugs, I'd just replace them out, but they seem to new to be causing any issues.
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I have a 2011 F250 with the 6.2 gas engine. I have been having a problem that the dealership says there is nothing they can do and have never heard about.
After the truck sits all night I get in and drive it for 10-15 min. It gets warm and I get out turning it off. When I come back about 15-45 min later I start it up and go to leave. As I pull out and start to accelerate in first gear the truck goes to an idle for about 2-3 seconds. I push the gas pedal and get no response. After a couple of seconds it picks up wherever you have the gas pedal. If you have the pedal to the floor it jumps you forward. This is not putting on any lights and the computer is not throwing any codes. According to the dealership the computer is telling them there is nothing wrong.
This has happened 12 times in the past 6 months. It has happened since I bought the truck. I have just started documenting it as of 6 months ago. It is not something I can make it do on command. After it happens once it doesn't seem to do it again for a week or two. I have 31000 miles on the truck. The dealership has had it for 4 days now and can't seem to get it to happen for them.
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I have a 2016 F250 extended cab with 8 foot bed with snow plow and camper package currently less than 2500 miles on it. Every once in a while when I make a turn (typically a left hand turn) I will here a brief noise that sounds like a rubbing or "squawk" noise. The noise doesn't seem to be related to the turn so much as to the roll of the truck when it unloads / loads the suspension. I'm guessing it might be related to sway bar bushings or something similar, but I just don't know.
I have tried to find a stretch of road near the dealer where I can make the noise happen so I can take a tech for a ride so I can let them hear exactly what I hear, but as hard as I try I cannot reproduce the noise consistently.
I have visually checked underneath and I do not see anything wrong and I suspect it's not serious, but I'd like to know the cause and obviously correct the problem.
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2004, 6.0, 96,000. I noticed a occasional clunking under the passenger foot area. The exhaust pipe is loose at the turbo connection on top the engine. It is swinging L & R & hitting the spring hanger & transmission cross member. Is there a rolled pin, dimple or other alignment device at the flange at the turbo???
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Iv got a 2003 6.0 stroke with 212k miles on it. Runs like a top. Done a slew of work from injectors to hpop, 2 alternators, intake, exhaust. NO tuner! Stock. Anyway recently I started the old girl up, warmed up a bit and shifted into reverse and truck did nothing. Went to drive and same thing. Held brake and revved it up and it dropped in gear. Shifts fine after that. No issues other than the occasional NO shift from park problem. Iv dropped pan and replaced all filters recently.
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With my windows up I occasionally get a slight whiff or smell of gasoline with the engine running. Doesn't matter if A/C is on or off. I crawled all under the truck and can't see any fuel dripping. (2005 5.4)
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How do I remove the neutral safety switch? I bought a replacement and am having trouble removing it.
After shifting into neutral, I disconnected the connector, then unbolted the two screws. Now I can't get the little white ring that connects the lever coming from the transmission to the actual switch. I have tried prying it off with a screwdriver, spraying a little PB Blaster to lubricate it a little. Nothing will get it off it seems.
I'm leaving to go back up to school tomorrow afternoon, and I need to have this fixed before I leave.
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Turns out I have a loose injector head. The electrical body on top of the injector has separated from the bottom half of the injector. I do not know which injector it is or what side it is on. I know this is what happened because I found the head of the screw in my oil when I changed my oil for good measure and found the nut stuck to the oil plug.
2004.5 F250 SD XLT 4dr 6.0L
CAI, 4" Straight exhaust
EGR Delete, 6.4 Injector pump
Coolant filtration system.
New injectors al around
New ICP, New IPR, New Oil Cooler.
Recently Bulletproofed on ARP head studs, and the stock Head gasket,
New injector harness and FICM from DieselTech Ron
SCT tuner, running innovative diesel tunes. EGT Sensor
37x13.5r18 nitto trail grrappleers
No, I do not have a bad injector [Or I guess I do!!. This explains why it was testing ok. but still acting like a bad injector] , or a bad ICP. The Head is not leaking nor is the potentiometer [TPS] or CPS bad. All of these things have been replaced. Even the injector harness has been replaced. The only thing I have not done is remove the valve cover and making sure all the injectors are tight.
I recently had a contribution error on cylinder 8. Hence the extensive ends I went to above. The new harness and FICM connectors fixed that part of the problem, but apparently the bucking and stalling were not related to that.
No codes are coming up. I'm running an SCT tuner with Innovative Diesel's Extreme Street tune. 4" strait pipe, S&B CAI, 6.4l Injection pump, bulletproofed with ARP head studs, new oil cooler, egr delete, coolant filtration, EGT sensor, SCT tuner, etc etc. Everything but larger injectors. [was coming next]
The truck runs perfect, actually better than perfect after the harness, TPS repair, UNTIL I REACH OVER 60 MPH. At 60+ it starts bucking until i get below 45-50, then I can get back up to speed but no faster than 60. If I let off it real fast while bucking, it stalls.
Fuel PSI issue? The injection PSI isnt affected. Pulse width, normal.
I commute... [At 60 mph lately...] Sounds like I have a loose injector wire under the valve cover.
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I was driving on the highway last night when it was like somebody dropped my transmission into neutral. I was cruising at 50mph slight hill. There was no noise or any thing. Now I have nothing.
It's a 2005 f350 4x4 automatic
I can only assume I'll be needing a new transmission but I am hopeful of a small problem...
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I have a 99 f350 V10 gas dually dumper. Today while driving I stopped at a stop sign. When I went to continue the transmission seemed to be in neutral, then it caught and I drove through the intersection. It 2-3 seconds later disengaged again. I pulled over. When I attempted to put it in park it grinded. (Bad enough I just turned off the key). I checked the fluid. It was close to full and red. While in park I restarted. Truck started fine. I shifted into drive and nothing. It was like it was in neutral still. I attempted to put in park again and more grinding. Also while in park it does not hold the truck from rolling. After getting towed home I checked the tranny fluid again and it was still looking ok. I drained the transfer case also. The fluid in there was near black an appeared to have a metallic look. Does this problem seem to be just my tc or tranny issues also?
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My 05 f250 v10 runs rough at points and sometimes quits when driving. I find it too that I can't rev it in park or neutral and sometimes when it is cold I can. I was wondering if it was a tps or something with the intake...
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