Was pulling passat home 50 miles round trip this saturday and downshifted into 3rd. As the gear engaged it let out a loud clunk locking into 3rd gear. was able to find neutral after a day but slammed into gear just idling. Can find neutral on pattern but not actually get there....also drags right rear tire upon disengaging clutch.
1999&half psd zf6 1 ton single....
New truck 11000kms ago thats done medium amount of work but nothing heavy or sustained for long periods of time. I get the feeling of clutches slipping especially when truck is cold but also when normal temps. Doesnt make any weird noises or anything. I can really notice the difference in torque if in manual mode being much better, but still not perfect if i stomp on the gas pedal and go through the gears in manual mode will still slip. Also is really harsh shift if i come to a halt in 3rd manual mode with the brake pedal depressed push minus button the truck makes very loud clunk noise into gear 2 then 1. Took it to ford they couldnt find anything ? Thinking of trying another dealer.
View 2 RepliesWhen I turned it on for a second, last winter, I rem hearing a clunk, and then another clunk when I turned it off. Made sense to me.. So, I figured I'd just activate it again now, and roll up and down the driveway once to exercise it. BUT, when I turned it on this time, the light came on, but no clunk when it came on, or off. I went up and down the driveway anyway, and I THINK it felt like it was ON, but I didn't make any turns, because I figured that would be bad.
Any one that is silent when it locks? I think I saw a post where everyone said it's supposed to clunk on/off. Could it just be the season/temps, only clunks in winter? I have a 4x2 btw, so it's just a turn switch. I hope it's not stuck or frozen somehow already..
So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.
Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?
I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?
I have been running SRL and love how it woke the truck up, however it seems like it hunts around a bit for the right gear sometimes and feels like it is constantly locking unlocking TC. I recently switched to 8K tow because I am going to be pulling a horse trailer soon and wanted to see how it felt first and it drives way better. I miss the extra getup and go of the SRL but it shifts way better and doesn't hunt around. Is there some adjustment on SCT I can do that would fix this issue with SRL tune?
View 1 RepliesI took my truck to an alignment shop to have him look over my truck to find a steering wheel jerk and a loud clunk noise. He believes it's in the transfer case driveline. Said to remove the driveline then drive it around and see if it goes away, if it does then that's the problem. So to the question, how to properly take this out? Do I need to make marks with a paint pen anywhere to line things back up or does it matter?
View 14 RepliesOk so I'm having a problem that seems to have been getting worse. 1999 7.3, auto, 4 door, long bed, 6" lift. When I got the truck a while back I had a slight problem where if I was accelerating hard I would hear a clunk when it shifted into 3rd gear. I'm not hard on the truck that often so it took me a while to realize that the noise was the driveshaft hitting the floorboard right at the joint at the transfer case output.
The carrier bearing was flopping around a bit so I replaced that first. No better... kept driving the truck since it was only a problem while being really hard on it. But it's gotten worse so now when I tow (usually not more than 7-8k lbs) I have a bad vibration on takeoff at low speed. If I try to take off from a stop very hard with any load the driveshaft jumps into the floorboard. So I just replaced the transmission mount and checked the motor mounts, no better. Only thing I can figure at this point is axle wrap...?
Ive got a 04 f350 that after u shift into 4hi or 4lo when u accelerate it it makes loud clunk noise in fwd or reverse hi or lo. With hubs unlocked it still clunks. Have checked, wheel bearings, axle U-joints, and driveshaft joints all good. So I am thinking I've got issues in t-case. Popped drain plug out and wow that dex merc 4 looks nasty. So thinking I need exploded view of transfer case.
View 4 RepliesI just broke my 2000 F350 7.3L 4X4. I never had any shift problems in the 3+ years I've had this truck. 3 days ago, I stood on it to enter the freeway, it dropped into passing gear, then a loud THUNK, a shudder, and no gears whatsoever. I coasted to a stop, checked to make sure the transfer case hadn't jumped to neutral, ran the tranny through all gears, and nothing, truck wouldn't move.
I took the tranny pan off this morning and its clean, just a little fuzzy on the magnet but nothing more than normal for 3 years and 200k miles without service. At this point, I'm thinking its the torque converter let go and won't pump fluid. Tranny Shops only want to sell you the whole assembly, not fix the problem.
I was thinking my AC clutch has too much gap and was gonna do the "fix it" listed in another thread. However, my clutch wouldn't engage like it states needs to be done. The only time my AC blows cold is when it's cold/cooler outside OR I rev up the RPM's but it hardly stays engaged. I had a friend do a few diagnostics on it, with a paper clip (assuming he did it right) he feels my clutch is bad. But I've read the clutch is either good or bad, works or doesn't work, no in between.
Next, it doesn't seem to blow as hard as it used to. I replaced the blower motor last summer, but even before that, it seemed to not blow very hard. If I have it on low, it's very hard to feel it. With a crew cab and 2 little boys seated in the back, they often end up sweaty and miserable, no matter how far we go. I've read the orifice tube might need to be replaced, or something needs to be cleaned cuz it's dirty or clogged like the orifice tube. But I can't remember what.
For about a week or now i have been trying to track down a sound from my truck, i had another post up and was finally with jhl3 able to determine that the sound is coming from my transfer case. The other thread with video of sound is located here : [URL] .... I've got a little bit of time to mess with i now
Quick rundown, began hearing odd sounds about a week ago, determined that it is transfer case. Front hubs are unlocked, esof switch is set to 2wd. Can not turn front drive shaft. I just put some zip ties on front drive shaft and went for a short spin, determined front drive shaft IS turning. Hubs are not locked and 4x4 is not engaged, did the sharp slow turn test, no feel of pull from front end.
Im not quite sure where to go from here, going to check connections at tcase motor and some relays.
My second Super Duty, a 1999 7.3 at random leaves the starter engaged after starting! Turn key off, starter disengages. Solenoid or ignition switch or? Batteries are good, and crank times are quick, but a while ago before replacing starter there were some periods of long cranking.
View 12 RepliesI bought my 2012 F250 CC SB 6.2 back in December and really haven't had the truck in 4x4. Today we got a bit of snow. The roads were slippery so I engaged the 4x4 ESOF while at a stop sign (I know, didn't have to be stopped but I was so I put it in 4x4) The driveline was noticeably louder.
I had a relatively constant hum that almost reminded me of a wheel bearing going bad. If you've ever experienced a wheel bearing going bad the sound gets louder as you go faster. I'm sure it's not a wheel bearing since it only makes the sound in 4x4.
It's a fairly annoying sound and is louder than my old 99 F350. Notice the driveline being significantly louder in 4x4? There are no driving issues just a louder sound than what I was used to. I have the full Ford Certified warranty and can bring it in but I thought I'd run it by the brain trust here to get thoughts before going to the dealer.
I need diagnosing why my A/C isn't working. I'm wondering if my clutch staying engaged has burned up my compressor before or after my clutch went bad. I don’t think it’s the air gap issue because I took my clutch off and checked and there were zero washers. I guess somehow I re-installed it with no washers maybe the last time I fooled with it.
I've only knew to check the air gap trick and when that didn't work, I wasn't sure what my next step could be. I tried looking at the high side pressure switch connector to see if it was burned up and it looked ok.
Can track down if my compressor is still good and replacing my clutch is the only thing I need to do or if I need to replace my compressor? Or if there's something else that's totally unrelated that I need to check?
My 2005 F250 just had the cab off in December for head studs and gaskets. Its a Crew Cab short bed FX4 so it has ESOF. When I engage 4x4 the blower will switch from blowing air out of the vents to blowing air out of the windshield defrost. Is a vacuum line plugged in wrong somewhere, or is one cracked? Trying to figure this out, its rather annoying
View 2 RepliesSo I have an 02 f350 and I just recharged the ac system today. At first the clutch wouldn't engage, I tried tapping it and nothing. Then when I went to pull it out of the garage I left it in park to close the garage doors and I could hear it locking and unlocking.
I checked the voltage at the plug and am barely getting half a volt but it still doesn't lock up when I apply direct power to it. I didn't mess with the shims because I do not believe that to be the issue.
After I had shut the truck down and started it back up the clutch wouldn't engage at all. Do I just need to run the system or what? Its working just not consistently, I was thinking the oil needed to be recalculated a bit.
So I've worked on this A/C for 3 years, I don't drive this truck very much or often, partly because the A/C doesn't blow cold. Its a 99 f250 7.3 ... Here's what I've done, first it was low on Freon so I added some and it got cold, take off driving and it gets hot. After some research I check the clutch air gap and pull a washer. This changes nothing, I put a valve on the heater core, so I could manually shut it off just in case.
This year I replace the compressor because the clutch isn't staying engaged when I revved it up in neutral. I went ahead and replaced the drier and Orifice Tube, the orifice tube was clogged up. So I start recharging the system, and I get 2 3/4 cans in and its blowing cold, low 50's high 40's its 75 degrees outside. The gauges read 35 low and 300 high, I'm a little confused cause it was suppose to hold 41oz from what I looked up but ok.
I rev the motor just to check everything out, the low side heads down for a second then starts going up, the high side starts going up and doesn't stop. The high side goes all the way till it hit the high pressure switch 450 wow. I'm thinking its over charged, I let it idle and the compressor kicks on and the low is around 50 and the high is at 350. So I rev it up again 1800 rpms or so, and the low side drops down and so does the high side. Except this time the low side drops down to 15 " I had the low pressure switch unhooked and looped" and the high side around 225.
Okay this is what I got; I recently purchased high mileage 2004 F250 Super Duty short box super cab 5.4 liter. Came with manual 4x4 handle on the floor so no 4 wheel on the fly and this eliminates the vacuum for the auto hubs so this will not be part of the problem. When engaging the hubs and ONLY when engaged the driver side hub grinds. The 4 wheel drive works but it sounds like its ready to grind itself into oblivion. I did pull the hub and the grinding was gone, I happen to have a spare hub that is good and the grinding returned.
I have jacked it up and made sure I have no play in the wheel itself and the axle knuckle on the axle shaft. Some say remove the front drive shaft? Or turn the wheels all the way in one direction engage the hubs and check for binding? I will do this in the morning, but what does that confirm if it not the hub. Could it be the passenger side echoing across? On my 99 Super duty I kept hearing moaning coming from up front like the breaks were shot and if you stuck your head out the window it was the back echoing to make it sound like the front.
I have been having an issue with my blinker for the past few months. When the blinker is fully engaged, the right front blinker doesn't work. If I just push up on the blinker so it doesn't fully click into place, the right front blinker works fine, so it is not a burnt out bulb. I have also checked my blinker light in my mirrors and they work fine. Left blinker works fine. I am stumped on to what this can be and I need to get it inspected. 2005 F-250...
View 3 RepliesI have a 2008 6.4 Diesel 4x4, and the TC is not locking. The ABS sensors were changed prior to me purchasing the truck as well as the dash and reflashed. I have recently changed the following within the last two weeks:
Internal harness
External harness
TCC solenoid
Tranny filter
I get no codes, but the ABS light is on, and the speedo doesn't work. I know on OBS trucks, the clock spring could affect it, but I am not sure about this newer ones.
This must have been asked before but I couldn't find any thread about it. Have a 2006 F350 that makes a rattling sound when engaged in front wheel drive. Sounds a bit like a loose ball from a ball bearing (or a small stone) rolling around. What might be causing this?
View 3 Replies