Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Lost Power - No Gears But Have Pressure?
Dec 23, 2014
I was driving down the highway and the truck was in overdrive and under a load passing at about 20lbs boost and all of the sudden I lost all power, felt truck shake a little. The tow/haul light is flashing and got only one code P0730. The truck won't go into gear in either forward or reverse now, had it towed home and put a pressure gauge on it and found about 100psi at idle In neutral, in reverse and forward I got strange readings the pressure goes way up momentarily then down to 100psi, and increments back up to over 500 psi and seems to stay there but neither forward or reverse engage. I have no clue what could be wrong at this point. I am attaching a video .....
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All week the truck was acting like the clutch was slight depressed when first taking off and then today i was driving and the underside of truck started smoking like crazy and slowly lost all the gears could put it in any gear and nothing just was acting like it was being revved. does this mean clutch is bad?
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I am updating my efforts at diagnosing this.... The antifreeze never seemed to lose any fluid..... The truck lost all oil pressure and after draining the oil, It seemed to have chunks of ice in the pan ! (not anti-freeze then right ? ) The oil was totally slimmed up like a milk shake...... I pulled the oil cooler and took it to a radiator shop who pressure tested it and said no good news>>> No leaks >>> no easy fix..... Is there any way snow or rain water can get past the intake manifold and into the valley? I got a snap-on SVT cooling system pressure tester. The system holds 10 lbs for man hour without loosing a pound, while running under pressure the gauge does not fluctuate (The truck runs GREAT sounds like a nascar). I just did a valve and chain job 2 seasons ago (think I do good work like I give a rip about my own stuff )I put the right stuff gasket sealer around all the water jacket port on the head gasket....... Is there any other way water can get in this thing ? I am going to change the oil again,add sea foam and start driving it...
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My 18 year old launched the little wire spring thing that applies pressure for the brake pads on front disc brakes. Could have gone in to neighbor's yard! Actually lost one on each side. He put it all back together without one on each side. I said it would still work fine. What's the deal really? Can't be that important are they?
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I have an 05 F-250 with the 5.4 liter motor, 4" lift, 35" tires 4x4. I have not had any problems with the truck and have 110,000 miles on it. the only thing I even did to it was replace an alternator. Recently it seems to have lost power.
I use the truck mainly for hauling my smaller horse trailer which is roughly 7500 fully loaded but most times i haul it at about 5500lbs.
I also have a 2003 7.3 which we pull at 20,000lbs no problem
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I don't know what is wrong with my truck. I don't know what this symptoms called, but It felt like it was missing a beat. The engine suddenly lost power for a second or two wile driving. It did this few times. Is it the engine or the transmission? No check engine light is on. 2001 F250 5.4 V8
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I have a 2011 f250 with the 6.2 liter gas engine. Lost power and the check engine light came on. I pulled the codes and it is a camshaft position sensor and 4 other codes for misfire on all cylinder for that bank. I can't find any info on where the sensor is located or how to replace it.
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I have a 'new-to-me' Ford F-550 with the vaunted 7.3 Powerstroke diesel engine. The truck only has 120k miles and ran great when I bought it. Last week it began acting up. While driving on the highway, it lost power, began running rough, and once I pulled over, it died.
After a few minutes, I tried re-starting the truck, it started, but had little to no power....I could get up to 30-35mph and then it would slow down and lost all power. I let the truck sit for about 20 minutes while I refilled the diesel tank, it started right up and drove normally for another 10-15 minutes and then the same thing happened again.
The truck sat for a day and then drove normally for two entire days. This morning, it began acting up. It is the same as before..... what to do with this type of issue?
There is not a check engine light lit (yes, it works). The diesel is from a good source that is not causing problems in anything else. The truck is otherwise strong.
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I have a 2010 F250 with the V10 and 42000 miles. Lost*power*while pulling a trailer. Couldn't get over 30 mph. Tried turning back home and lost all*power*and would barely idle. Fuel filter good air filter good. Code P0300 came up. Towed it back to the house and then couldn't even get it to idle. Wouldn't throttle up past about 2800 rpm. Cleaned MAF sensor and nothing. Somewhere during all that P0174 code came up and misfire cylinder 10. Cleared codes and they haven't come back. Now when trying to crank, it barely turns over, yet battery is good. Opened air filter cover after getting it to start one time and there was some light smoke coming out. Also while barely keeping it running for a little bit, the catalytic converter on the driver side was fire hot and the other side I could grab with my hand.
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So I was traveling thru the grapevine on the 5 Fwy and no problems. Made it to the top didn't over heat. Then all of a sudden it lost power. Pulled over and it stopped running. Won't start. Fuel is pumping, I took off the fuel filter and turned ignition on and it filled up.
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My 2003 6.0 truck lost most of its power. It has the SCT programmer. It used to run great it would roll coal really well then it slowly started to run worse. Now it runs really sluggish especially when its cold. IT takes forever to warm up. On the freeway when ur going a constant speed it bucks and jerks a lot. It won't roll coal anymore and just runs like crap. A mechanic said I had 3 bad injectors. But I don't believe it.
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I have a 04 f350 6.0L truck ran great all day today then out of the blue it started shacking and lost power then i plugged my tunner in and code popped up po284.
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So I have a 1999 F350 diesel and the fuse panel under the steering wheel is acting up. I was driving my truck home the other night and I lost power and my truck shut off. I have had a problem in the past with the #30- 30 amp fuse ( controls the PCM and glow plugs from my understanding) that is under the steering wheel, I replaced the fuse and everything started working normally again.
Until the other night when my truck shut off, so I replaced the fuse the truck drove again for 20 feet died again, I was able to hold the #30 fuse and allow my truck to start up again but would eventually killed the PCM and shut off again and would not start up due to what I believe the fuse location shorting it out and killing the power to the PCM preventing me from starting it up again. I had my truck towed home and charged the battery and it started up fine the next morning. If I push on the #30 fuse my truck the shorts out and kills the power, I do not know if this is normal?
The fuse is sitting loose in the fuse holder is there anyway making it fit tighter to prevent it from being so loose? I have read every other post online about the problems and tried everything they have recommended but still can not figure out what was wrong with my truck. I disconnected the fuel filter heater, and also the wastegate solenoid to see if that would prevent the truck from shorting out if I pushed the fuse it did not work.
What the problem could be causing the #30 - 30 amp fuse to be shorting out preventing everything from working? Or how to test the fuse panel and all the relays?
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While driving up hill at 60mph the truck lost power. Rpm jumped up as to change gears as it hit 55mph. Still losing power until it shut off. I tried to restart and just got a click from the solenoid. No engine codes whatsoever. Battery had 12.1 volts but when turning the key to start in getting 8 volts. Had it towed home. Today I swapped batteries with my other truck and same click noise from solenoid. All lights, radio, ect still work. Where should I start? Alternator, fuses...?? 2008 f250 5.4 ...
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I have 2010 f350 and everything works while key is turned on. When you crank the truck I lose power to windows, radio, mirrors, blinkers and instrument panel. When I drive the truck and give it gas everything works. Let off the gas and I lose everything. Sometimes after about 20 minutes of hey driving it will stay on. Also when first starting the truck the gear selector won't let you out it in gear. After about 30 seconds it will go
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Changing a fuel pressure regulator on one of these? I'm having an issue with it running really lean, like laying down with no power lean.I put the pressure gauge on it and I'm running an even 30 pounds at the rail. Changed the filter in hopes, but no change. Just changed the O2 sensors and they were both white.
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I have a 1999 F450 that was bought new as a cab and chassis. The truck belonged to my dad who passed away two years ago and now I have it. I am wondering if it has 4.30 or 4.88 gears. The rear end is huge! It has an aluminum cover with cooling fins on it, not sure if they both had that or not. I looked online and I think it said all cab and chassis had 4.88?
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I drive a 2000 F250 XL Super Cab LB 2WD 7.3 Powerstroke. i drive like a grandpa. No rompin on the accelerator or anything. I was leaving the house got up to about 35mph and the truck lost acceleration. Motor still running fine. I coasted onto a side road. Put it in park, killed it, started it again and same thing. Will not go into drive at all. However will go into reverse just fine and accelerate in reverse. Desperately wanting my favorite means of transportation back!
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Ive read here that our trucks can lose all of their AC fan speeds except High - mine has done that as well. However, even High on my truck doesn't blow much air. I looked behind the glove box for an interior air filter, thinking it might be clogged but couldn't find one. What could be stopping my blower from putting out?
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I have a 1999 F-250 4X4 7.3 lit Diesel engine. My problem is my transmission will go into reverse great no problem but it won't go forward. I have no problem rebuilding the transmission if that's what it needs, I just want to make sure there isn't a electrical issue from the PCM first?
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I've got a 2003 350 7.3, with the zf6, approx 225000. I've been chasing a vibration that can be felt in the whole truck for quite a while. Feels like a wheel bearing danm near shot. But after replacing both wheel bearings and making over the whole front end it didn't go away. So I replaced the clutch and throw out bearing cause it was getting bad anyway. The vi ration is still there so I checked the harmonic balancer and it was bad so I replaced that. Still no dice. I know that it's coming from the trans, you can hear it in when jacked up and running in gear. Shifts fine in all gears. But the vibration/ clunking is there in all gears and it's getting bad. It feels like a bearing going out. Could it be input shaft bearing or pilot?
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