Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Losing Power In Reverse / Transmission Not Always Going Into Last Gear On Interstate - Code PO741
Jan 13, 2016
I have been having trouble with my 2008 Ford F250 4x4, 6.4 liter diesel transmission. SCT tuner, 10" lift, egg delete and dp delete has been done. I have been losing power mainly in reverse but have noticed that the transmission hasn't always been going into the last gear on the interstate. Code PO741 would come up. The other day the shifter was stuck. So I played with it and found that the cable on the transmission had fallen off. After replacing it. The transmission wouldn't go into reverse but has been doing semi good in forward. Well I have been limping it around until today when I was going down the road and it completely stopped pulling. Now no matter what gear I place it in, it will on go in reverse. What could be causing these issues or where to even begin to start looking?
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I have a 2008 6.4 f-250. It has 139,00 Miles and I have a problem with the truck losing coolant and overheating on the interstate. When cruising 75-80 my truck will sometimes begin to puke coolant from the degas bottle and my cooling fan will begin to run. Engine coolant temp once spiked to 240 degrees before I could get off onto the shoulder. Around town the truck does fine although I do notice a loss of coolant but no overheating issues what so ever. I have the Dpf Deleted and Egr coolers are off. I run an H+S on a mild tune. Is there any other thing that could be wrong with this truck besides head gaskets? I am not looking forward flipping that bill. Trying the exhaust all other possibilities first.
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Drove the wife to work this morning. The turn off into town there was a lady stuck so I pulled over in the drifts. After putting in back in gear I had to get on it to get out of the drifts. Snow was blowing over the windshield, and I imagine throughout the engine bay.
After that it felt like it stayed in 2/3rd gear. I'd hit the pedal and it would redline and sort of accelerate jumping in and out of gears. So i slowed down to a stop. Accelerated slow and it was ok but when I got more on the pedal it would feel like it was slipping. Once I got in the driveway, she idled for about 15 mins while I shoveled out my spot. Once putting in gear again I had to rev it up for it to move.
Also reverse, had to rev it up to move it.
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I have a 2000 F-550 w/7.3 and a 6 speed ZF transmission. My problem is that when you go to shift into any gear inc. reverse the transmission stays in 5th gear. I pulled the shifter and tried to do it from top of transmission it still stays in 5th. Any thoughts that I could possibly check?
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I recently had a thread going regarding my 1999 F350 2wd auto transmission slipping in/out gear. Tried to follow up on old thread but got confused so I'm trying to start a new one. Basic problem is that truck was slipping in/out of gear. Cleaned the solenoid pack electrical plug (as instructed on previous thread) and the truck didn't act up for 2 weeks. Today it started slipping in/out again and this time it registered a code of P0705.
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99 F-250 SD 6.8 had an issue with it while moving from Del to Phx, Az. Found collapsed air cleaner element. It looked like someone stepped on it. I replaced it as well as the MAF. This fixed the issue. This was 350 miles into the trip. The truck seemed to be down on power as it didn't want to pull my trailer up any type of grade except with OD off. Around 2K miles into the trip in developed a random misfire with no codes. I am at my final destination and the misfire is worse. I am not showing any codes at all or pending either. It is a bit toasty outside to be out there diagnosing issues, and I won't start changing parts randomly either. I have a NGS scan tool with the proper cards.
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It seems its the 4R100 tranny non pto of course and 2wd version. I drove down the rd. after bleeding the brakes, new caliper front right, came home let it idle for about 10 min, shut her down. Went to move it about an hour later, it went into reverse no problem, then when put it in Drive it revved like it was in neutral. There was no banging, no clunking, nothing to make it seem like something catastrophic happened.
I then did a line pressure test and Reverse was fine 200 psi for sure, in drive mode however it was low like around 50 but had to rev real high to get it to 150 like 3/4 pedal and it would want to seem to go forward at a crawl but nothing more. Next I did the obvious and cheked the fluid, it was about 1/4 quart low so added a bit. The fluid did not stink and was beautiful red like new.
I then tried again... no dice same scenario. Then took off the pan, no metal chunks and virtually no dust on the magnet??? Ok so I figure maybe something with the shift valves? Took them all off and the accumulators as well, all check ***** were in place and all valves moved freely.
Now onto the the solenoid pack, checked all per manual for ohms and all were perfect reads at about 27 Ohms, except the EPC solenoid that is the big one on the pack, it should read about 3-5 ohms but this guy is about 12.5 ohms.
I spoke to a tranny shop in town and they said it would not be the EPC and that I could "unplug" the solenoid pack and It would still move forward without it but not to drive like this as line pressure would skyrocket?
Why this thing would have 200 lbs pressure for reverse and so little for forward I mean? that should mean that the pump is working great, if there was a broken something metal I figured I would hear something rubbing or banging or see some shavings? Can this be a "worn out" valve? or gasket issue?
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I have 03 f250 v10. just replaced the engine and got everything all connected and started it up and it idles great...the problem is that when you press the gas pedal it starts to drive but then it looses power and acts like its missing. cant get it to go 30 mph. While keeping it floored eventually it gets up to 2000 rpm and then starts to pick up speed.
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I have a 1999 F250 super duty that blew a front seal on the transmission two weeks ago. I sent it to a shop and they replaced the seal, and torque converter. However when they put it back in it will not engage in drive or reverse. After working on it several days we replaced the transmission with another one from a service company. This replacement came with a 90 day warranty. However once it was installed it does the same thing and will not engage in drive, or reverse. I am not sure what is going on but with two doing the same thing it makes me thing maybe electrical or something else.
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I have another very odd problem with my 2003 F250 7.3 PS with 206000 miles on it.
I am visiting my parents and every time I go thru this certain area my truck will act up. The first thing that happens is the truck starts losing power and then it starts bucking like water in the fuel or the cam position sensor is giving out.
WHAT I HAVE DONE SO FAR: I have drained the fuel filter assembly ( no water ) and a new cam position sensor has been installed (about 5000 miles ago, I even put old one back it to check it out same results). I have driven the truck all over the place and don't have an issue except in this ONE spot. I am beginning to think there is some kind of high powered RF going on in this area causing my truck to act up. I am thinking of hooking up my autoenginuity scanner up to it and hopefully see something going on.
Is there anything I can do to block this out if it is a RF problem. I think it is effecting my Pcm/ECM for then engine causing the truck to act up.
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I have an 03 with a 6.0 diesel, going down the road and started losing power and then died. Won't start, and I don't have a scan gauge. Several sources said ipr valve, and from videos on youtube I thought may be a good place to start. I bought a socket and pulled the valve, to check the screen. There is no screen whatsoever on the ipr. The oils clean, as I had changed it about 200 miles ago, and I ran a magnet in the hole looking for a screen, couldn't find anything so I used my fluid pump in the hole. No trash, screen or anything. Do some ipr valves not have screens? What would be my next step??
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1999 F250 super duty w/ 5.4... My truck seems have issues keeping speed on the interstate like its not wanting to switch gears on time. Its auto by the way. Gotta little hesitation in the idle exhaust due that I have several leaks in my exhaust. Could that be the problem?
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I have a 2007 6.0 with 260k on it losing gauges and radio intermittently while driving. Lately 2-3 times a day, lasting 3-4 seconds a time.
I have heard it could be the shift lever, instrument cluster, fuses, etc. I have kind of ruled out fuses based on the behavior of the failure.
Looking for a second opinion before I start taking the dash apart or send it in. The truck just can't be down for a long time right now.
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Ok, I've seen a post or two about this issue of rear end chatter on the super duty But not that many so I am going to ask a question here and now......what causes/allows this to happen and what purpose does it serve? also, does it cause any damage to the gear head? or any other part of the rear end?
My truck tends to do this from time to time when I am plowing snow (only when backing up, or at least so far) and I really can't relate it to condition other than maybe the fact that pushing snow may cause the gear oil to get hotter than normal driving and thins out and causes this?
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I installed a reverse camera to my new Pioneer in-dash nav head unit this morning. I wired (at the rear of the truck) the power signal lead to the reverse wire at the trailer connector. I also need to wire a reverse signal input into the back of the head unit. I really do not want to run a power lead from the rear of the truck to the cab. Is there a wire under the dash I can tap into, or could I use the wire going to the backup alarm that’s somewhere under the dash (if I can find it). 2010 F350 deisel, crew cab, 4WD, long bed.
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I have an 06 F-250 Lariat with the crew cab. Even though the windows are tinted, the A/C struggles to keep the cab at 70 degrees on any given sunny day oer 80 degrees outside.
As long as you're driving on the interstate, it blows cold, but when slowing down (like a traffic jam or a stop sign) the air gets warmer and has a funny smell (like it's wet).
When I got the truck it had just gotten a new A/C compressor (160k miles). It stopped working last summer (180k miles) so I had the truck at the Ford dealer here and they replaced the A/C compressor, condenser, pressure regulator and dryer...basically all A/C components under the hood.
They tell me its working fine, but I find that hard to believe. No Ford I've ever had has had trouble keeping the cab ice cold even on the hottest days... How are your air conditioners working? Do they keep the cab cold? What I should look at?
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I have a 2001 F250 V10,
So the truck drove fine yesterday had zero issues... I used my auto start as I do every morning in this cold weather, get into the truck and shift from park to drive and its like it does nothing. I can free rev in N,D,1,2. Reverse works great.
I tried switching from 4wd to 2wd, no change. Reverse works just fine. No noises, codes or anything, just doesn't want to engage...
I am assuming I have a 4R100. Could something electrical cause this? I am thinking its mechanical, but hoping someone has ran into this before.
Literally no way I would have known the trans was going bad... It's always worked fine. Tranny fluid is full, I tried unplugging the battery waiting and plugging back in, no dice.
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My 2001 F250 5.4 has started to make a screeching sound. It only happens when it is in gear (auto) moving forwards or in reverse, and increases in pitch relative to engine speed rather than road speed, and is much more noticeable under mild to moderate acceleration. Maybe I actually mean transmission input speed?
When simply maintaining road speed, it is almost silent. Anyway, if I drop it into neutral while driving, the sound stops, and starts again when I put it back into gear.
From the drivers seat and with the windows closed, it sounds as though it is coming from the engine bay at steering column height, although this is really tough to gauge while actually looking where I am going. With windows open, it comes from both sides of the vehicle.
1st thought is tranny......
2nd thought is a water pump bearing, although there are no apparent cooling problems or leaks.
3rd thought is the alternator bearing, although there are no charging problems.
I say alternator because I recently changed the serpentine belt and noticed that the alternator made a very faint screech-like sound when spun without the belt on it. The main screech was there before I changed the belt. Maybe it gets really loud under load?
So I'm kinda scratching my bean and wondering what expensive piece of mechanics I'm going to shell out for next. If it's #2 or #3, I can do those myself, but if it's #1.... it likely means more money than I have to spare.
I did wonder about removing the serpentine belt and driving a very short distance (end of the driveway and back) to see if I can remove the pulleys, tensioner or other belt driven parts from the equation. Maybe this is not such a smart idea. I'm somewhat at a loss right now.
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Truck is slipping in/out of gear in 3rd gear. Shut it off and the problem may not come back for several days, but in general it is getting more frequent. No codes are registering for the transmission. Curious the wisdom of performing a simple fluid/filter change vs taking it to the transmission shop. Fluid basically looks/smells good, and is full.
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I purchased a '15 KR cc sb some time back love the truck! It came with a leveling kit and tires were changed to Michelin 35's on stock rims.
The issue is that on certain sections of concrete interstate the truck "bucks" back and forth...a lot.
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I have a 2012 F-250 ccsb lariat and the shift from 3 to 4 seems to be a bit prolonged as if the converter is slipping and wont go ahead and push it into 4 gear. Also it will want to downshift from 3 to 1 and feels like the car behind nailed you. I have read that the early 2011 had some of this problem and the dealer reflashed the tcm and it did not do much good but as mine being a 2012 mine should have been flashed with the lastest tcm flash from the get go?? Egr fell off and am running Kory Willis tunes through ez lynk so the stealership is probably out of the question. I have also read that changing a couple solenoids( dont remember which ones) will fix the problem.
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