Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Long Term Negative Effects Of Heavy Condensation In Engine?
Dec 11, 2016
I only live 6 miles from work and I've been getting a lot of condensation gunk building up inside the filler cap and around the neck. Is there going to be any long term damage from this? Here is a picture of what I'm getting.
I know it's not coolant because I'm not loosing any and the oil on the dipstick is clean.
Since it got cold I've been taking another route to work that gets me up to 9 miles one way. Also, twice a week I take the long way home that has the engine running for a half hour but I'm still getting build up. In the winter I'm on call a lot and rarely go far from home so taking a two hour trip to really heat things up is probably not going to happen.
ETA. I change my oil every 3000 miles if that makes a difference.
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I've got the dreaded broken exhaust manifold studs on my 2004 F250 V10. I don't drive it much (just 50,000 miles in 10 years) and confess I've ignored the hissing for quite a while. Is there really a permanent fix for these broken studs? Or should I expect to be replacing broken studs every 2 or 3 years?
If there is a permanent fix what is it? Special studs? Special manifold? I want to keep this truck a long time and don't want to be replacing these studs every few years.
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New floor mats. My truck is going to be 10yr old and has the original King Ranch floor mats. I want some heavy duty rubber ones that will fit around my manual transfer case lever. I ordered the Weathertech digital fit liners and I am not happy with them so they are headed back tomorrow. They have a heavy duty all weather mat but not sure how it will work with my shift lever on the floor. Husky liners/mats look nice and heavy duty but won't accommodate the floor lever.
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Is there a steering stabilizer for a 92 Ford F-250 custom 2wd? and what's the difference between a f250 custom and a f250 heavy duty?
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I have an issue with a truck I recently purchased. I have a vibration that starts around 50, feels like a wobbling vibration. Than once I hit 75 it feels like the truck is going to fall apart. Heavy rumbling.
It's a Ford F-350 dually extended cab. With 115,000 miles on it.
I took it to the shop to balance out the wheels and all the wheels needed atleast 2 oz of weighs on each side. Some have as much as 4.75 oz on one side. Is it possible that I need 6 brand new rims?
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06 F250 6.0 CCSB 4x4 163K Truck was in a pass side wreck about three weeks ago. Aside from bumper, head light, etc I had to replace the track bar and then I had the alignment done. Mech said the steering was loose and was either the steering box or column.
PROBLEM: Truck drove and parked fine last night, I went to leave the driveway this morning and I had to turn the wheel full right while backing up. The wheel locked up and wouldn't turn back to the left to straighten out. Hood wouldn't pop either to check anything
I crawled under the truck, the belt was in place and I didn't see any power steering fluid leaking. Thinking it was a PS problem and the hood not opening, I basically floored it and yanked on the wheel and it broke loose. Also, for what ever reason the hood opened after that
Now the steering is heavy and the wheel doesn't center on it's own. It will stay turned when I let go of the wheel. Scared that it would happen I didn't try turning it full lock on the way to work. but it happened again exiting the parking lot, again full right lock and the wheel stuck.
I managed to yank the wheel to the left again and I heard a distinct pop from what I'm sure was the pass side wheel area.
The PS fluid is dark and I'll figure out how to change it. I've read issues from the U-joints, ball joints, Steering box, steering stabilizer, and failing PS pump could all lead to this. Being the truck had a pass side fender bender, and I'm pretty sure the pop sound came from the pass side how do I check all of these items.
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I have installed a delete kit and a H&S chip on my 2009 F350 6.4 powerstroke , I installed the mild tune and run in street level. When I accelerate fast from 20 to 70 it puts out a little black smoke but as soon as I let off to maintain speed it starts blue smoke really thick and runs rough , it will eventually stop after 5 or so miles but if I accelerate it will puff blue each time for a bit longer. What could be the issue?
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I did the HID headlight swap about a month and a half ago. Driving tonight about an hour away in heavy constant rain my headlights have gone out... They have flickered. They have gone in and out a couple times but end up off. Any Quick fix????
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My '05 F350 PSD has developed a pretty bad vibration most noticeable above 40mph but only under acceleration. As soon as i hit speed and let off the gas its gone but if i accelerate again to pick up the speed i lost its back. Haven't looked into it too much yet as i was busy all weekend and drove the Expy but I did get down there and don't have an obviously bad u-joint or carrier bearing. I'm also gonna see if i popped off a driveline weight or something.
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In my 2014 F250/6.2, if the truck sits unstarted for 10 - 14 days it will usually kill the battery. I mean dead enough to not even power the dome lights. Do the various modules in these trucks draw that much that it would cause this? I'm getting ready to install a couple of 5 Star tunes in the truck. But if I need to take it to a dealer for some warranty coverage for this problem I'll hold off. There's never been a tune in it to this point and I don't want a warranty claim denied for that reason.
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2003 F-250 SD 7.3L Supercab
Problem 1: Right rear
Occasional smell of heavy grease, white smoke billowing out from under wheel well (once), black fluid leaking from lower area of caliper. Told it could be axle seal or caliper. I'm leaning toward axle since the caliper is only 1 yr old (NAPA OEM).
Oddly, I also notice a loud, piercing screech when going around traffic circles or exit ramp clovers to the right. I thought this was my trailer until it did the same thing without it.
Axle or Caliper?
Problem 2: Left front
Local mech advised the bleeder valve is broken off in to the unit and cannot be simply replaced. Insists it needs whole caliper. If pedal is all the way up there is a temporary breaking capability then it slowly creeps to the floorboard, hits a brick, and keeps rolling. Replaced master cylinder a few months ago when it same. Drove it for the last 2 weeks and problem is back.
Removing broke-off bleeder valve instead of replacing cals?
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I have a 2000 SD F250, gasser, auto. Last week I pulled a heavy load and developed a tranny fluid leak. The fluid appears to be coming from what looks like a freeze plug on the bottom of the casing forward of the (torque converter?) pan . Is that plug easily replaced by a DYIer. Small leak. 150K on the motor. First time it has leaked. Heaviest load I've pulled.
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I have recently placed a new shortblock from Nashville engines. My retired ford diesel mechanic said it was the best shortblock he has ever seen. Since working on my truck he has ordered 6 small block from them. I used reman'd Ford heads after going through three sets of heads from Clearwater heads and one set from ProMaxx Cylinder Heads out of rainbow AL.
Since putting in new long block the truck smokes a puff of white smoke each morning. Enough smoke that it bothers me. A new longblock with new injectors should not be smoking. I have changed the fuel filters thinking the 5 sets of heads previously put on the truck may have gummed the motor up and have ran octane boost for the last 500 miles. I ran a 2000 mile road trip and the truck still smokes when cranked. sometimes a lot and sometimes a little. What could be causing this?
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Just bought this '08 F250 CCSB 4X4 5.4 Problem is the steering seems heavy, it tends to wander at higher speeds and won't return to center after a turn. I've searched on here and found a few possibilities (axle u joints, ball joints, steering gear, etc). I have an appointment with the dealer on Friday to fix it under warranty but he is convinced it's the u joints in the steering shaft seizing. When my F150 steering shaft began to seize, it would be hard to turn then break free then be hard then break free and this is not what is happening on the SD. I haven't had a chance to check the front end myself but not sure how you would check the axle u joints if there was no play in them. How would you check to see if they were seizing up.
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I have a 2008 6.4L F-250 and occasionally when I come to a stop I can see a faint white smoke coming out from under the truck and the hood. The smoke has a heavy diesel exhaust smell. When I step on the pedal nothing comes from the exhaust and it does not happen all the time. What is going on?
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So basically I thought it would be a great idea to degrease my motor from the top down.... After washing I start it up and drive down the road to head abunch of misfiring under heavy load or high rpm's.
My problem is that the misfiring won't throw a code. I then proceeded to buy a new ignition coil (thinking this was the problem) but with no code to go off which cylinder was bad I just switched the good ignition coil into each cylinder and starting it.
Up each time. None of them seemed to make it better. Also the injectors all seemed to be good. So what to do ?
2002 Ford F-250 5.4l
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My truck is 2001 F250 with the 7.3 I have AFE intake, TS 6 position chip, Stage 1 Auto Tranny, 4in Exhaust all the way down. New glow pugs as of last week as well as uvchs and gp relay. Also has a new hpop line. New compression sleeves for fuel lines, riff-raff fuel banjo bolts and fuel pressure regulator.
I am having a hard start issue no matter what the temp is outside, unless it plugged in. Once it starts its good unless it sits for more than 5 hours.
Batteries have tested good, glow plugs ohm at 1.3, gpr 12.83 at batt side- once on it 11.9. All fuses are good. HPOP res is showing at about 3/4" down from top.
***Wires going to the MAT sensor are showing through at the connector, not sure if this could be a problem...if so why???
****Noticed some oil in the ICP, cleaned and unhooked will check start tomorrow to see if this works with long start as truck is plugged in.
Will also be putting a new fuel filter in and double checking oil level in the am. I do not have a scanner tool and am doing the best I can before I take it in to ford to diagnose.
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The last couple weeks my excursion had started to have a stumble and smoke white ate the first startup or after I let it sit for a long time. I did get progressively worse. I noticed the hpop line to the driver side head was leaking from the fitting so I rebuilt the boss fitting and now it's not leaking but when I started it up this morning it did the same thing.
If I give it throttle it clears up pretty quickly but if I let it just idle it will put white for probably 5 minutes. I have no codes showing when I looked with the scanner I don't see any other oil leaks and I don't smell a fuel leak.
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I am having some intermittent long cranks when parked facing down hill (even very slight downhill). It seems like it only happens cold and is worse when parked for longer. Truck has all updated parts under the hood and is under warranty for another month. I would like to know where to start diagnosing (what would cause this symptom) since I'm sure it won't do it when I take it to the shop right before warranty is up for one last go over.
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I have a 99 350 sd 7.3 low power black smoke sets a p1211 under heavy throttle. Check icp on scanner under heavy throttle falls from 1900s to mid 1700s ipr duty cycle runs about 62% wanting to know if I am looking for a hpop problem or injector issue...
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I have a 1991 f250 that used to have a camper on it, I recently got this truck and when I put an older heavy camper on it the back springs flattened out and the front raised about an inch or two.
My question is...I am going to put air bags on this truck to alleviate this problem, should I replace the springs as well or will the air bags be sufficient to handle a camper?
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