Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Left Warn Hub Rotating Out Of Free Settings?
Jun 6, 2013
The left Warn Premium hub has started rotating out of the Free setting, this seems to happen at or near highway speeds. A tell tale sound is then produced, I assume from the splines contacting. It does not rotate all the way to lock. There seems to be less resistance on this side now than the other when locking. Hubs have been installed for 3.5 years, problem started a few days ago, haven't been locked in a couple months.
We've had torrential rains for the past week with no end in sight due to the tropical storm bearing down on us so I figured I'd ask here first before pulling the hub in the rain (no garage).
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OK I am pretty sure my warn locking hub is shot. I put it in the lock position and I can still turn my u joint by hand. I got the cap off and the otter metal ring out. There was No inner snap ring to take out. So now it should Just come out right?
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I have a 01 f250 v10 4x4 ... My stock hubs squeak non stop when they are engaged. I want to get a set of warns.
I am going down to napa tomorrow, looking for a detailed link, or instructions of how to install these things? i have searched but just keep coming up with people raving about how great warn hubs are!
Do I need any special tools, do I need to grease the new ones before installing?
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Truck: 2001Ford F350 5.4 auto 4x4
Issue: Engine seems to free rev over 2500 RPMs. Barely hits 50 MPH. Revs fine in park, no power in gear. At 1/4 throttle it will move, but sluggish at best. Once you get around 2500 RPMs it stops accelerating and just revs. Does this in every gear, and gets worse the faster you go. feels like its stuck inbetween gears almost. No CEL's
Replaced: MAF, TPS, Trans fluid and filter, fuel filter, cleaned intake system, fuel system treatment, O2 sensors. Trans fluid was dark, but no burnt smell.
I'm about to pull the exhaust and look for a clogged cat.
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I've noticed my front axles are rotating all the time even when the hubs are in auto and supposed to be unlocked when in 2wd. Is there a rebuild kit for these so they will unlock the axles or do I need to buy new locking hubs?
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2002 - f250... I originally posted this issue in July of '03. Nothing has changed.
1. At max ac, regardless of how hot it is, the ac clutch cycles due to low pressure once the cabin temp reaches about 78 degrees. This is not acceptable or expected in my opinion.
2. I have run extensive tests, done this for years, and the conclusion is that there is too much pressure drop in the evaporator. I'm seeing 5-7 psi drop measured using a Fluke digital temp probe, insulating the probe tip around the pipe. Compare outlet of orifice tube several as far away from orifice as possible and comparing to outlet temp of evaporator where it comes out of the plastic shrowd. Convert temp to pressure.
I've seen many posts over the years of people not happy with '99 to '04 ford truck ac operation at cruising speed. I have confirmed that the compressor is cycling way too much to cool the cab down. I even ran an experiment where I completely blocked the condensor to raise the head pressure and the compressor still cycked at 1500 rpm's with the cab above 75 degrees on a 90+ degree day.
My next step is to blow out the evaporator and see how much oil and junk I get out of it. I'm also considering taking the evaporator out and trimming the rubber gasket that is around it. It is blocking about an inch of the coil face all the way around.
My conclusion still is that the evaporator just isn't loading up enough as if it's partially clogged. There is only about 2 psi drop between the outlet of the evaporator and the compressor.
The compressor cuts out at 21 psi so the low pressure cutout switch is working properly.
What should I use to flush the evaporator out? Will mineral spirits do it as long as I blow it out real well and make sure I get all of it out? Also wondering if I should blow out the condensor thinking maybe there is something clogging it up.
In spite of some folks on this forum saying it is normal for the compressor to cycle at cruising speed, that is a correct statement depending on many factors. In my case, the cycling is not normal or expected. I have also tried:
1. VOV
2. Larger orifice
3. 14 oz charge over what the sticker says
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I recently purchased this remote starter and I installed it and had a local dealer program/cut the key.
I have an XLT without the message center. Do I have the manual temperature setting for when the remote starter is used? It has not worked either way as far as i can tell but it has also been very mild temps in illinois at 55-65 in the morning.
If I do have it, is it a setting i must engage somehow? I looked in the manual but could not seem to find anything.
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I tow a 5th wheel with my 2014 F-250 that has an factory TBC. I just installed Electric over Hydraulic disc brakes on my 5th wheel and was trying to see if there was a setting I needed to change on the TBC to tell it that is now E/H versus E. In the Information section of the dashboard display it talks about the controller actuating electric drum brakes but the manual talks about it being able to do electric AND E/H. What I need to do here...if anything?
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2011 F250. My radio's audio settings are resetting back to default when my truck sits a couple of days. I know there is one member that has(d) this issue. I am still under warranty but thought I would ask what or if there will be a fix.
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2004 PSD 4x4 72k. I thought I would be proactive so I bought the front ball joints and have plans to install them but recently I starting hearing (and feeling) a clicking sound in the front LEFT when I make sharp turns to the left and hit small bumps now and again. I jacked up the front end and am able to get 1/4" of movement front to back (top to bottom so not steering) in the wheel.
I narrowed it down to the hub. I took it apart and it is most likely a sealed unit so no adjustment is possible....that I can see.I pulled out the locking hub and got as far as I can to know there is not an adjustment. Need to confirm that it indeed is a sealed bearing and if so what are the part number(s) I may need to repair it.
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My Superduty has been pulling to the left when I hit the brakes for a few months now. In the past it's done it, like within a year or two after buying it brand-new off the lot, but that was because one brake pad had rusted itself to the bracket and was not doing a darn thing. Once or twice more, it was a stuck caliper pin, which was quite obvious when working on it.
Last year, around August, I replaced the rotors and pads with Advanced Auto parts stuff. Rotors are still great, pads look brand-new, and it wasn't pulling up until the past month or two.
But this most recent pulling has been a problem that I can't find. It's not the pins, it's not the pads, and now I find out, it wasn't the calipers
This past weekend I went so far as to replace the calipers with Napa rebuilt "semi-loaded" calipers (all hardware and pins and bracket, except for the pads) and pressure-bleed the entire system. The old fluid was green, not black, but now that it's been bled, the pedal is a bit firmer than it was.
I wasn't going to replace the calipers without checking them first, but I broke both bleed nipples off and I wasn't about to wrestle with an easy-out and try to get the darn things out. Per side, rebuilt caliper with hardware and bracket, can't go wrong. (Checking the calipers would have involved using a C-clamp to compress the caliper slightly, then backing off the C-clamp - if the pistons come back out a slight degree, they are free and the seals are still "grabby" and resilient).
While bleeding it, I saw a piece of black crud (rubber?) about 2-3mm in size come out of the left side. Didn't think much of it, figured it was just built up crud from somewhere.
Today, the first commute after doing the calipers and bleeding, it's still pulling just like it was before the calipers. However, I did notice at one point when I hit them, they pulled like they normally do, but seemed to go straight a few seconds into it. It does seem that if I keep my foot on the brake, the pulling is much less after the initial second or two, but if I stab them again, it pulls like crazy.
And by "pull" I mean the steering wheel actually moves in my hand. So with that in mind, it's actually a front-brake problem. If it was the rears, the wheel wouldn't pull like it does, and if it was something loose in the suspension, I would have found it already after checking everything, and it again, wouldn't pull the steering wheel like that.
Now, given that black piece of whatever that came out of the left side, I'm beginning to wonder... if it was rubber from the inside of the hose.
Is the right brake hose causing the pulling because it's coming apart just like the left one might be?
I've gone over and over this in my head this morning, and thought about the ABS unit possibly dumping pressure from the right because of a leaky valve (see side note below), but I would think that once the pedal stab was over, it would even out and not pull at all.
However, this thing pulls left quite a bit, even after the pedal has been held down for quite some time. Usually. Sometimes, it subsides and doesn't pull. But mostly it does no matter what I do, keep pressure on the pedal, let up and reapply, whatever.
Does this really sound like a bad hose? It's intermittent, but usually pulls like 90% of the time.
Side note: The ABS unit in my truck, and most Fords of the time (not sure about later than 2004 or so) is a Kelsey-Hayes three-channel unit like this:
Kelsey-Hayes RWAL Antilock Brakes
It's the same system found in Chevy Suburbans and light-trucks, which I have worked on before and know a bit about.
In my case, it can't be a dump valve leaking, because it would effect pedal-height and not PULL to one side like it does. The only way that could happen is if the isolation valve was closed, AND the dump valve were leaking at the same time.
I haven't, however, gotten the ABS to activate just to see if it changes anything. On my way home tonight I will see if I can find some dirt or sand and get it going
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Seems that after a sharp right turn, for instance turning right at a stop sign I'll get a loud pop that I can feel in the floor pan under my feet.
After the pop the steering wheel and whole front of the truck will shift left and right like someone is grabbing the wheel, sometimes violently. If I drive slowly it will cure itself and sometimes not do it again for several days. I've check ball joints and hubs and they are in great shape. I pulled the hubs and greased the needle bearings about 6 months ago. I checked all steering components and the linkage that attached to the steering arm had some play so I replaced it. Then I found that some idiot took the steel sleeve out of the bushing in one end of the steering stabilizer. I bought a new stabilizer and cured a pop I'd had since I got the truck, but the other issues were not solved.
Alignment has been checked too.
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2012 F450 Dually King Ranch 4x4 - I have read many threads on front end noise. I started hearing a noise when I turned left or right and then slowly run over a speed bump. I listen to music at an average sound and I picked up on the front end noise. For some reason you can hear it in the driver seat better.
Anyway I took the vehicle in and the mechanic said he didn't hear anything. I thought, he forget his hearing aid today? I have this expensive warranty plan that would actually cover a few items in the front end but Ford is claiming they don't hear anything.
In their defense I have figured it out why. When the temps are below 40 the noise gets louder and I think by the time they looked at it (8 hours after I brought it in, 5:00pm) the day was warmer.
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I have 2 F-350 4x4's and they both wander back and forth when driving. They feel like they don't have enough caster. One is a 2000 V-10 extended cab with 8 foot bed. The other is a 2015 6.7 diesel crew cab with 8 foot bed.
I have driven the 2000 for so many years that I have grown use to the very slight sawing of the wheel to keep the rig straight. When my wife got her 2015 it does the same thing. The 2000 is leaf spring and the 2015 is coil spring. This bothered me when I first got the 2000 (used) but I just figured it was part of
the charm of a big truck.
I know I could put a caster shim in the 2000 but there must be a better way to solve the problem. Both are stock, no lift and no heavy winch or stuff.
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Last couple drives I have noticed some front end noise on the left side. Back in May I also noticed grease all over behind the rotor. I believe this is the grease inserted via ABS hole into the unit bearing. I do not hear the needle bearing crunching while driving and did not here it in May either. I also attempted to move the unit-bearing up and down thinking the axle seal was toast but it seemed solid at the time.
Today I hear some noise while turning left which lead to the pictures below. Wet side is Driver side, dry side is passenger. Tomorrow morning I should have some time to take a look at this more in depth. Passenger needle bearing was changed last year and no issues since then......
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I have a 2000 F-350,7.3, 6 speed. Just the other day I made a turn and my passenger got her feet wet. It had been raining and I also had the ac on. A couple of days later the same thing happened, but it had not rained, just the ac on. What is causing this. I do see condensate discharging under the truck.
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What would be causing my left and right bank lean codes? Truck still seems to run fine. I have also been getting number 6 misfire. all within the past week. I know Its due for a tune up but would a simple tune up fix these codes. Also besides plugs and primary fluids what else should I be changing. I don't want to be getting to involved just the main stuff.
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I have a 1999 f250 sd with the 7.3. I'm not sure what is going on with my pickup. When I turn to the right i can turn with one finger, but when I turn left i have to put some muscle into it. Power steering fluid is full. I raised the front end and it turns both ways easy. My ball joints feel fine, there is no tire shake when i have it off the ground. My tie rods feel fine also, nice and tight. I was thinking about replacing the steering sector to see if thats the issue but wanted to get a second opinion first.
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