Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Keeps Dying / Not Stay Running
Jan 7, 2014
My issue is not with the truck starting its with it staying running. I had plugged in all the night prior and all day while at work. When my shift was over went out started fine let it run for about 20 minutes and left to make my way home. During the trip it ran fine for about 1/2 a mile and then it started idling really rough at a stop light went to go threw the light and it as though I had left it out all night with plugging it in. I went to turn on a side street because this situation was not going to end well and it died trying to turn. It would not start back up I was able to get a jump and made another 1/4 of a mile and it died right in front of my house. I replaced both the batteries this morning and it fired right up lasted about a minute and then died again. All the gauge read fine, oil level is good, and the injectors were replaced 2 years ago.
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Got a 99 F450 7.3 with 190k miles, started acting sluggish. When cold, it wouldn't stay running, almost as if out of fuel. Would stall out when you pressed and released the accelerator but would idle fine. Now, it won't even stay running. Still acts like it's out of fuel. Changed the air filter, fuel filter, and added injector cleaner and conditioner. What else could it be? after warming up when shifting gears and letting off throttle it stalls and when restarted lets off blueish white smoke.
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I Have a 2002 F 250 That I recently changed the fuel pump. and now I'm having a tail light problem. when i start the truck, my tail lights and plate lights comes on (dim). if i turn my head lights on the truck stalls out. if i step on the brake or put the truck in reverse it stalls out. if i put it in drive it runs just fine. i checked my fuses and relays and the problem is still there even when the relay and fuse for the lights are out. when i turn the truck off all the light go out.
can't seem to find any info on this problem anywhere.
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This last April I was towing my trailer back from camping approx 125 miles when I detected a loss of power and a slight miss. I managed to make it home. It wasn't until I made it home that the engine finally started coding. Miss on start, a couple of cylinders missing and output shaft speed sensor circuit failure. So naturally, I decided to do what I felt needed done anyways, change all coils and plugs. Oddly the problem got worse to the point where I almost didn't make it home after test driving it, it kept stalling out and was difficult to keep running.
After some research and advice from others, I started replacing some components; MAF sensor,IAC valve, output shaft speed sensor. Nothing. In fact now the truck wont move, I start it up it idles a little rough, but then I put it into gear and with in seconds she shuts her self down. I've replaced the fuel filter, checked the fuel pressure and it is in specs. I've now had it towed to two mechanics neither of which have any solution. They've put expensive computers up to it and still nothing. I really do not know what to do at this point. Lastly the only code that continues to come up is P0720, output shaft speed sensor circuit failure, I really miss my truck!
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty and something keeps draining my battery, I replaced the old one and im having the same problem. What could it be?
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My starter solenoid keeps dying. I can't use a retail chain part. They burn up in a day. Always Motorcraft and it only lasts a year or so.
Any way to test this thing to see why it burns out prematurely?
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In the last 15k miles, I've replaced the led lights on my driver side mirror twice already, and come to see this morning: they are out again. The turn signal LEDs still work, but the parking lights don't work anymore. Passenger side is fine.
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My truck has been sitting more lately, which means up to a week without starting and running. Each time this happens I run into a dead battery. And I mean dead. I've charged it fully and then used the truck no problem.
We did a test where we unhooked the negative terminal wiring clamp and ran a meter to check for amp draw. We did this by touching the meter leads to the negative post clamp (unhooked) and to the negative post on the battery. It gives a reading of ~1.5 amps. Trying to figure out where the drain might be.
Otherwise, we'll jut pull each fuse to see if we find the electrical area drawing the amps.
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The batteries keep dying. I can charge the batteries and drive it to work a couple of days and by the fourth day, it's dead again. Have replaced alternator, batteries, and starter and I am still having issues. Just noticed this weekend, the instrument cluster going off, coming back on, shutting off again all while the truck had been running for about an hour. I'm not sure if it is because the battery was dying or what. As soon as we got home after the instrument cluster incident, turned the truck off and tried to start it. The battery was completely dead.
I have been looking up on sites and I keep coming across the GEM Module. I want to ask around before I buy it. I have also noticed small issues with my 2000 Excursion. Back windshield wiper starts up upon the vehicle starting. Goes a few times and stops. Not sure if this is the same type of issue as in the GEM Module.
2002 Ford F350 7.3l Diesel with 148000 miles
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I drive a 2002 F-250 7.3l and have been having a lot of issues. The most recent one is that my truck won't crank unless I've had the block heater plugged in. Like I said in the title, the batteries are supposedly fine. They've been tested by a mechanic and Advanced Auto Parts. But when I crank the truck, it will only turn over for 10 seconds or so before it loses enough juice to even turn over. So it's kind of cold, but only 40-50 degrees, so I didn't think the truck would have that much of a problem starting. I'm wondering if my issues are a combination of an electrical problem and a heating issue.
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This is my first post on this forum. I have a 2014 F350 standard fleet truck. The headlights are not day time running lights. The headlight switch is the basic off/parking light/on. The headlights come on as soon as you start the
truck. This just started happening about a month ago. When you shut off the truck the headlights stay on for ten minutes. I scanned the truck with a snap on modis. I got into the lighting module and the "command on" is on. The modis would not give me the option to turn it off. Short of taking the truck out of service for a day to go to the dealer. Is there any other fix I can do?
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i have a 2002 f250 i drove it lat night parked it came home from work at about 3 and noticed my head lights were on and just headlights. I open the door and see that the switch is in the off position too. WEIRD HUH ? they wont go off. I tried to unplug the switch and nothing.
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I was thinking my AC clutch has too much gap and was gonna do the "fix it" listed in another thread. However, my clutch wouldn't engage like it states needs to be done. The only time my AC blows cold is when it's cold/cooler outside OR I rev up the RPM's but it hardly stays engaged. I had a friend do a few diagnostics on it, with a paper clip (assuming he did it right) he feels my clutch is bad. But I've read the clutch is either good or bad, works or doesn't work, no in between.
Next, it doesn't seem to blow as hard as it used to. I replaced the blower motor last summer, but even before that, it seemed to not blow very hard. If I have it on low, it's very hard to feel it. With a crew cab and 2 little boys seated in the back, they often end up sweaty and miserable, no matter how far we go. I've read the orifice tube might need to be replaced, or something needs to be cleaned cuz it's dirty or clogged like the orifice tube. But I can't remember what.
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Walk out to my 02 f250sd this afternoon after it sat for 9 hours while I was working... the lights are on... look inside and the light switch is in the off position... Open the door and it smells like burning wires. Car cranks without a problem but lights will not go off. Unplugged light switch and still lights are on. Open fuse box and all fuses look good none of the relays are hot. Reach around to back of fuse box and almost burn my fingers. Remove 4 screws that hold box in place and look around back. Unplug the wires going into fuse box and see that one is melted and it appears it is melted inside the fuse compartment itself. What might be going on inside this black box?
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Yesterday jump in truck head out and when I go to use right (passenger) blinker and it doesn't stay on. Left side works fine. It will stay on if held but on it's own it blinks like 4 times then shuts off.
Side note not sure if connected but a couple days before was using wipers and when I shut them off it was still like it was on intermittent. It happened a couple times but seems fine now, but then with the blinker I am wondering if it is something in there.
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I bought an hid kit for my 2005 f250 the dog lights work fine but the headlights won't stay on. They come on for about 30 seconds then shut off. How to fix this. I've swapped the ballast with the fog light ballast and it does the same thing.
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When I parked my truck at work this morning, I pushed the parking brake pedal down like always, but it popped back up. I didn't pop all the way back up, it stayed down about 1/4 of the way. Several tries yielded the same results.
Since I'm at work, I didn't have any time to crawl under there are investigate. I'll do so tonight when I get home, or maybe tomorrow. Kinda sounds like the locking "teeth" mechanism may be misaligned?? Since it doesn't come all the way back up, I'm hoping the mechanism isn't totally broken.
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Okay, I've done a few topic searches and see some variations on this, but not this specific scenario. 2001 F-250 (5.4L, 4x4, auto). My daughter's truck and I wasn't home so this is the best info I have as relayed by her.
She turned the key off, the engine shut off, but all the "electrics" stayed on -- radio and a/c fan to be specific. She said that morning the truck had a dead battery so she got a jump start, leading one to suspect that the electrics stayed on the previous night as well. (?)
I had her disconnect the battery and let it sit until I got home. Of course, when I got home and reconnected the battery, everything works normally as it should. And has worked normally for a few days.
So.. any words of wisdom out there while we wait for "the next" occurrence?
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On my 2009 F350 the cruise control won't stay on. The slightest bump and it turns off and I have to push the resume button. It's not the brake pedal/stop light as it will do it with me holding the pedal up. I'm guessing there is a vibration/crash sensor to turn off the cruise control in case of a wreck.
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I have a 2012 F-350 SRW with a 6.7 diesel. The other day I went to push the defrost switch and noticed it does not work. All the lights work in the switches, and the temp control works, but no matter what I push, defrost or floor, it stay in the vent only. Anything I can check??
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6.7 Boost ... Under full acceleration does the turbo go to 40 PSI or stay in the middle at 20?
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