Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: JB Weld For Manifold Stud Removal
Sep 25, 2016
I started to do my manifold and am 2 and 2. I got 2 out and two broke on top. So far I haven't been able to do anything w the bottom. I have basically seen 2 ways to get the studs out when they break. The first I'd to drill w an ez out and the 2nd is to weld a nut on. I'm not great w a drill and can't weld. I was wondering if using JB weld might be an option. I have never used the stuff but supposedly it's pretty strong. Is there any risk of welding the nut to the head?
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04 f250, 5.4 ,90,000mi. Checked my oil today and saw this white flaky crap on the dipstick its salt, probably from a broken dipstick tube, probably broken at the manifold right where there was a huge deposit salt right on top. The manifold is leaking anyway I was hoping to wait till spring when everything dries out and warms up a little bit, but with salt getting into the engine I think I have to do it now. Is there any way to deflect moisture off the road away from the exhaust manifolds?
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My '08 S.D. (5.4) has a cracked exhaust manifold, which I've heard is fairly common. Crappy Ford design. The local dealer has them in stock (imagine that, just like the 'non-bad' coil caps from some years ago, that they were instructed by Ford to keep at least 10 on stock at all times) for the passenger and driver's side. What are the part numbers?
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The exhaust leak is not too horrible, but, enough that I need to address it soon. Only on the driver's side; (today).
I'm planning on having a lot of PB blaster on hand, torch, broken stud removers, screw/stud extractors (easy outs), ...a hammer. Maybe a few cold Budweisers
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I have a early 99 7.3, I have parked it for the winter an I had moved the truck the other day an have noticed it had leaked some oil, after looking for the source I found that it is leaking out of the #7 cylinder exhaust port. I know the oil is forsure in the manifolds usually burns off but now that it is not getting to operating temp it is staying a liquid. Where is this oil coming from?!!
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I 'm looking to replace my manifold studs in my 2005 V10. Looking to replace with bolts. Would like someone who has done this to chime in with what they have had success using for bolts. Size length grade etc.
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About to do the exhaust manifold gaskets on my 03 f250.
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I've got a 2006 F250 5.4l. Recently Ive had an issue when I am driving, usually when the engine is at 3k+ RPMs, where the engine will lose power and the cel with blink. Usually it only takes a few seconds for the blinking to stop and the engine continues as normal. Now, I know that at least one of my exhaust manifolds are leaking.
Could it be that the engine is not receiving enough back pressure and that is causing it to lose power? I had a similar issue last year, basically the same symptoms, and it turned out that I had two cylinders misfiring. I replaced the coil packs and that fixed it. This time there are no codes referring to a cylinder misfire. There is a code for EVAP leak (I think), but I was told it was nothing to worry about.
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is there a set of headers for my 2008 f250 5.4 rwd that will install somewhat easily without me throwing tools across the garage? I see a lot more options for the older trucks. I have a pretty annoying exhaust manifold leak and I figure I might as well throw some headers on if im gonna be in there. I really want to go for sound rather than power. I think I saw a set by flowmaster that looked decent.
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2003 F350 short bed 6.8L V10---On start up a slight tap sound, almost like a cranky lifter, but it is an exhaust manifold leak. At the bolts, I am not sure. This has been this way for 5 years, no better no worse. After I run about 2 to 3 minutes it seals itself. Not a hint of noise. Due to heat, something is expanding to seal it (aluminum).
At my annual PA. State Safety Inspection the Tech says 'that has to be corrected if it worsens', but It does not fail inspection. This puzzles me.
How is the call made for correction. A flip of the coin, a guess and is it serious enough to fail inspection. Is this normal with the 6.8L or V10s. I know the cost involved for a fix is big league, but can it be justified. TRUCK RUNS GREAT !---
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Bolts breaking on the exhaust manifold. If so why isn't ford doing a recall on this problem I have a F350 V10 90K miles and 3 on the top drivers side are missing not sure on the passenger side. Is this a problem with all the ford engines I have never had this problem with any other truck or car I have owned.
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I have an 03 F250, 5.4, 4x4, with aprox. 130k miles. I recently had my exhaust manifolds replaced because 1 literally cracked in half. Ever since the replacement, I'm getting worse gas mileage! Im only getting aprox. 250 miles to a tank when before it was well over 325 (highway)...
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1999 F-250 LD 5.4... There is a hole on the back of the upper intake manifold, just below the back of the throttle body, is a vacuum hose supposed to be attached here? Have a serious vacuum leak, no coolant loss, no overheating, just had cop's and spark plugs done, now she backfires, stalls and will not stay running, mech. says its an intake gasket but the gasket and lower intake manifold look new.
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I've got the dreaded broken exhaust manifold studs on my 2004 F250 V10. I don't drive it much (just 50,000 miles in 10 years) and confess I've ignored the hissing for quite a while. Is there really a permanent fix for these broken studs? Or should I expect to be replacing broken studs every 2 or 3 years?
If there is a permanent fix what is it? Special studs? Special manifold? I want to keep this truck a long time and don't want to be replacing these studs every few years.
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Should I attempt to replace the passenger side manifold with what I can get from Napa. I would rather pay 100 bucks for everything and do it myself. But, Im concerned about replacing the studs. From what I have read the studs seam to be the problems for most leaks on these vehicles. I have torque equip. and other tools to do the job. Just want others opinions about this project. How hard really is it? 1999 5.4L F250 SDuty....
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I needed to replace the intake manifold gasket on my 2002 f250 v10. Tore everything apart put the new gasket in which was the same as the old one lyrics to notice something isn't right. I have been driving the truck for over 10 years like this. Is it OK to just continue bolting everything down and go on like this? I am guessing the prior owner 10 plus years ago put the wrong intake on. I keep looking up intakes but they all look just like the one I have. Also that port exposed is on the back passenger side.
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I have an exhaust leak between the manifold and turbo ( in the flex part of the pipe) on my 2008 6.4 f250 would this create rough idle when at operating temp?
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This is right beneath the drivers side exhaust manifold. Not sure what it is but it appears to be leaking oil. Tried to tighten it and it seems snug. Can it be the gasket has gone bad for whatever it is?
Truck is 02 SD, 7.3, 4x4, with 512k miles.
Not really leaking bad but if easy enough to fix why not. It also appears to be leaking on the same side cylinder bank back near the rear of the valve cover. Need to see if I can snug that up as well.
It's right in the center of the pic. It's a bolt going into some sort of fitting housing that ties into the back portion of the block. Ignore the coolant streaks on the coolant hose. This is the oil leak in the darker center of the pic.
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I want to remove the 4x4 stickers on my 2014 SD box. I think it looks cleaner without them. Are they difficult to remove or does the hair dryer trick and then some Goo-Gone do the trick without a big time effort? The last thing I want to do is make a mess of the paint finish.
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Looking to get rid of the step handle, I did this mod on mine and it was a direct fit...take off old liner and unbolt handle, then get a liner from a non-step tailgate and it is a direct fit:
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OK, so I ordered in the new lines and have them. BUT my problem is snaking the factory transmission line out from under the truck. I have pictures to show my struggles.
How do I pull this:
Out of here???
Towards the front of the motor
Front passenger side cab corner
Replacing these lines? I don't care about breaking the old one, but I still need to find a way to install the new one.
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