Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Intermittent Accelerator / No Response Just Goes To Idle
Mar 6, 2015
2002 Ford F350 Powerstroke, 7.3L, Automatic, 4 wheel drive .... AFE Stage II Intake, 5" full exhaust, TS 6-position tuner chip, Swamps 140lb injectors
Intermittent accelerator problem: no response, just goes to idle. Runs perfectly with no other issues but zero response when the accelerator it pressed. There seems to be no pattern to the problem as this happens at any speed/position on the pedal. When the accelerator goes out the check engine light in the lower left corner comes on. All fuses are good.
Symptoms began a month or so ago feeling like an occasional 'hiccup' or hesitation. Symptoms occurred a few more times until a couple of weeks ago (Friday, 2/20/15) when it left my son stranded a few miles from home. He was able to limp it to a parking lot and we left it over night and went and towed it back to the house the next morning. The truck started and ran fine just no accelerator so we towed it idling so we would have power steering/brakes, etc. As we neared the house the engine light went out and the accelerator began working and he was able to drive the truck the remaining 1/2 mile home.
Most all of the research I did came back with the Throttle Position Sensor as the culprit. I was able to order one (the complete accelerator pedal assembly that is*) at a Napa store in a nearby town and picked it up on Tuesday (2/24). As soon as I installed it everything worked fine.
As an aside, I have read a lot about the mid-2001 switch from the units with the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and IVS (Idle Validation Switch) as separately connected units to the 'new' style where these parts are combined into one and there is a single 5-wire connector. Being a 2002 there was no question as to which one I had. Just be aware of the difference. Also, this part is simple to change. The connector has a clip that you pinch down on with your thumb and then pull off. I use my little electric impact with 1/4" extension and a 10mm socket. Zip, zip, zip an you're done. It takes me longer to get my tools out.
A few days later on Friday (2/27) it presented the sporadic accelerator symptom a couple of times again but was able to get the truck home. The next morning I unplugged, cleaned (CRC Contact Cleaner), and dabbed into the connector a small amount of dielectric grease to insure good connection. (I had read that in my research as well). That seemed to work beautifully and he said it ran fine all day and until the next afternoon (Sunday, 3/1) when it began acting up yet again.
I continued to research and could find nothing that would suggest anything other than the Throttle Position Sensor. I read that some other folks had gone through a few of the Napa/aftermarket units though so I began thinking that maybe I had just gotten a bad unit.
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I have a 2005 F250 5.4L 2wd. Parked the vehicle in my driveway and the next morning there was no response from the accelerator and the CEL light and the wrench light on. I pulled the codes and came up with codes P2104, P2107 and P2110. The KOEO code was P2122. I checked the wiring and connectors and all appear to be fine I replaced the throttle body and no change. I removed the accelerator pedal and tried it on another vehicle and it worked fine. I have power to pin 16 on the diagnostic port. After clearing the codes and rescanning the same codes come up immediately.
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As a follow up to my problem of intermittent stall and hard start, it is getting more pronounced. Now, every once in a while, it will start. Mostly it will not start.
This morning I connected an OBD2 meter with the key on and engine off. It told me that there are no DTC's. As I was attempting to run enhanced DTC's the code reader lost link with the computer. The connection icon was on but it lost the link. At one point, after several tries, I got the link back but it didn't last too long before it was lost again.
This is the same symptom that I have with running the engine. It will run and then shut off. After a hard start, it will start and run just fine and then shut off again.
My question is this. Can I still have power to the PCM and loose power to the processor? Is there a fuse or relay that could be causing this problem? If not, could the problem be a faulty PCM.
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I have a 2015 SD with only 4100 miles on it. This has happened to me twice. Both times, traveling slowly at idle or just above. Anyway, tried to give it a little gas, and -----nothing. Lightly pumped the throttle a couple of quick times and back on line. The motor didn't die, but there was no response to the throttle at all. The first time, I thought maybe it was something I did. Then it doesn't happen for a month and a half and then again, in heavy traffic in the rain. Haven't had my first service yet, and you can bet I'll tell them about it. Almost felt like a two-stroke that had loaded up?
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2003 f250 4x4 7.3 auto
Been an ongoing problem with truck, pedal would sometimes lose all response. truck starts and idles fine but will not throttle up and all needles on the instrument cluster are at their rested position and the odometer doesn't even light up, however all the backlights still work fine.
The owner said that a 10 amp fuse on the bottom row of the fuse panel would occasionally blow, and that's when the pedal would go dead, he would replace it and keep driving till it blew again... usually about a week. I checked all fuses on the truck tonight and all are fine.
Unplugged the connector on the pedal sensor and cleaned and reinstalled and still wont throttle up. I am not sure what number the fuse was that he kept replacing but i *think* it was a cluster fuse. Is their an correlation between the cluster stopping the pedal sensor from working or vice versa?
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Took delivery of my 2015 F250 in June with 2WD and the 6.2 gas engine. What I thought to be a slow throttle response seems to be more of a quick shifting transmission according to two different dealerships. My 6 speed automatic has already shifted to 4th gear at only 25-30 MPH. My Dodge Hemi I sold never had shifts as quick as this and I think it's to quick. My question is....is there a way to change these shift points so I get more speed before it shifts into the higher gears?
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My friend has a F250. He was getting terrible mileage and the mechanic he took it to replaced the intake gaskets. After that the mileage went to 12 and he was happy. Now its down to 6-8, just highway. It seems to me the throttle response is terrible compared to my dad's 01 V10. And it sounds terrible. Exhaust manifolds aren't leaking that I see.
I've got AE and have hooked it up, but I'm really not very familiar with these trucks. I don't get any codes that would relate to anything. Had one trans sensor code but that was about it. Key on engine running test didn't say anything.
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2005 f250 4x4 , crew cab v10. Just put on my magnaflow muffler and gotta say, What a difference that makes! Can't wait to get the k&n intake kit and see what that will do. I see that my truck has the electronic throttle control instead of the previous v10s with the cable. I am wondering, is there any way to get quicker throttle response like with the old cable style throttle? Just seems real sluggish to rap up the rpm in park with no load on it.
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I have had this truck for several years. I have only had a few issues. I've heard of engine noise issues but I have never had any until now. My 5.4 is making a knocking sound that just started. It goes away if I tap the accelerator. It has over 200,000 miles on it. I change the oil every 3000-4000 miles. No additives and always conventional 5-20. Is this a serious issue? I've seen people talk about using thicker oil but I'm very hesitant.
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I have roughly 104k miles. The weather is trying to get colder. Lows of 45 highs of 80 right now. Last week I was accelerating on to the highway and the truck seemed to have trouble shifting. I hit the accelerator and it did not shift. It would continue to increase in speed but very slowly and would even tend to kind of sputter a little. My engine light came on and has gone off and on several times since then. This has occurred several more times and is always when I hit the highway.
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So, I'm slowly but surely eliminating a terribly shaky front end on my 2002 F-250 7.3L 4x4. First was a new carrier joint on the front drive shaft. Didn't work much, but the shop said the darn thing was falling apart. Next thing I did was new wheel bearings and manual hubs. Less vibration for sure. But the last remaining issue, in terms of vibration, is that when I let go of the Accelerator going at any speed above 60 MPH, it makes a horrible horrible noise, and I could feel a vibration. It shakes the whole truck, but I can very noticeably feel it directly in the gas pedal. It's really only an issue during deceleration. What could it be??? Drive shaft U-joints? Torque Converter? Something else in the Front End? Something in the engine even?? I don't exactly have the funds to tackle every possible solution.
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I have a 2001 F250 7.3 with 175K.
Here is the situation. There is a disturbing clunk when I take my foot off the accelerator and a corresponding clunk when I push back down on the accelerator. This only occurs when the vehicle is not under load. That is, it does not happen when going up hill or on any sort of an incline. It does not happen when the automatic transmission shifts. It does not happen shifting into reverse or drive.
It does not happen when starting or stopping. It only happens when I am at 40-60, or so, miles an hour and let off the accelerator and/or press the accelerator again. It appears that I can carefully feather the accelerator to eliminate or, at least, minimize the clunk. I have crawled under the truck and it looks like all the U-joints are tight, I have lubricated the slip-yoke (although when twisted there is, like a mm of play when this is twisted, not much but a very little).
The rear-differential pinion appears to be tight (no side-to-side play or up-and-down play, or at least I can't make it move with my hands). However, when the truck is in neutral the entire driveshaft is able to rotate a half inch, or so, all the way up and down the drive train. That is, the transfer case and the rear differential appear to have a little rotational play in them, but I am guessing this is pretty normal. When in park the entire driveline seems solid.
I have seen from some of the other posts that this sort of clunking can come from leaf springs, hangers and such but since this clunk seems so isolated to acceleration changes when the vehicle is not under load, I doesn't seem like this would be the issue. No clunk when shifting, turning, bumps etc. Everything seems perfect until I am on a gentle downhill or flat and let off the accelerator. Doesn't appear to clunk when going down a steeper decline. All this gets me to thinking that the clunk is caused whenever the driveshaft rotation gets ahead of or behind the rotation in the rear differential.
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2002 Ford F-250 5.4l ... What is the difference in sound between a lifter tick and an exhaust leak? I have a ticking noise, almost sounds more like a puff of air noise, it only makes the noise when I push the accelerator and is coming from the right side. Noise is most noticeable if I put my head under the passenger side front fender. I am guessing I have an exhaust leak somewhere between the heads at cat but just wondering about the difference in sound. I'd think if it were the lifters they would tick at idle, right? The truck sounds great at idle (after doing a tune up) I just want to get rid of this annoying tick when I accelerate.
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I need fixing my 2003 f350 6.0 diesel, I have been working on this truck for a while and still am having problems, here was the original symptoms:
-Hard start or no start on a sunny day
-Rough idle for 10-15 minutes
-Rough shaking in the low RPMs (35 mph)[/COLOR]
-Slow response from the gas pedal
-boost would only get to 14
My dad and I then did many things to the truck in the shop, those things are:
-Air test and replacement of coupling going into oil branches (next to HPOP)
-Replaced EGR valve (no good)
-Replaced ICP sensor (leaking oil)
-Replaced ICP sensor and IPR valve piggtails (due to frayed wires)
-Cleaned Turbo
-Cut MAP sensor hose and reattached it (spliced on the end)
-New battery
-Performed a bubble test and found two bad injectors on passenger side (injectors #5 and #7)
-Cleaned and lubed tops of injectors
-Replaced O rings and copper crush washers on all injectors
-Replaced nipple cup O rings (tight)
-Blew out injector cups
-Bubble tested after injectors put back in (no more bubbles)
-New FICM, EGR cooler and oil cooler were already installed
-Ohm'd main engine wiring harness (good to go)
-Taped up frayed wires on fan clutch connection
-Increased wire gauge on the positive jumper between both batteries
-Sanded each ground on the batteries and engine, cleaned battery clamps, lithium greased connection points.
-Checked fuel for air (no air)
-Checked fuel psi (85 psi, plenty)
-Oil changed
After doing all of this (diagnosing as we fixed each thing) we now fixed many things including the hard/no start problem. Now, for the first three to five minutes:
-It starts right up
-Runs perfectly, no shake and instant response from the gas pedal and turbo
-Boost goes to 28
-ICP is 800-950 on idle
-IPR is 25-26.9% closed
After five minutes however:
-Starts to shake
-IPR % starts to raise
-Received no response from gas pedal (absolutely no power)
This truck has been torn apart like 8 times and I have to do it on my spare time.
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I bought a 2004 F250 super duty 4x4 with the 6.0 a couple weeks ago and have a few questions. Hopefully all of these things are normal, but I thought I would ask you experienced drivers.
1) Occasionally while driving when I lift off the accelerator pedal I can hear a sort of loud rattle under the hood. I assume this is the turbo shutting down? Is that normal?
2) 4x4 and locking hubs... I have the 4x4 hi and low switch on the dash. Do I need to also manually lock the hubs to go into 4x4? After reading the manual it seems like I can just turn the dash switch and they should automatically lock, but I'm not sure. The hubs are not marked, but going by the pictures in the manual I think I know which is "lock" and which position is "auto" or off.
3) Front wheels hop at full turn. I expected wheel hop in 4x4 or with the hubs locked, but even in 2WD with the hubs in the auto position the tires still "hop" or knock a bit at sharp turns. Is this normal?
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I have a 99 F250 7.3PSD; I upgraded the tranny cooler after an episode of overheating while backing up a hill.
The truck has done well, hauled a few tractors with it, but recently I have noticed something that seems scary. When going downhill, I often relax on the accelerator. Usually there is some passive engine braking as happens with any auto tranny. Recently, the truck just coasts - it is as if you feel the tranny shift into neutral and you just coast, except I didn't shift. While this is happening, the accelerator pedal will not rev the engine. You can put the pedal all the way down -> rpms at about 6-800. No response.
At the bottom of the hill (so far) the engine gets louder. the rpms drop, and the accelerator works again. Every time, so far. But, if IO am going down hill, and want to accelerate to execute a laneg change or something - I can't. AFAIK, everything A-OK after the new tranny cooler. levels, etc.
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Recently on two occasions I pressed the accelerator clear to the floor with no response. After shifting into Park then back into Drive it drove normally for about a week. Now it has stalled out and was very stubborn to restart. Once running, the accelerator will sluggishly rev the engine while in Park, but in Drive, will not respond. TPS sensor or something else?
2004 6.0 Diesel, 75K miles, no mods, well maintained.
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On a cold crank the engine idles rough until it warms or the accelerator is pressed down. Also runs rough going up hills or towing. Check engine light is on and is throwing the code for bank 1 to lean and cat performance below threshold. Cats have been tested, good. Fuel trim tested, good. One mechanic said noth8ng is wrong with it well, there is. 2011 f250 6.2 gas...
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My current truck is an early 99 F250, 7.3L diesel, CC 4x4(manual shift transaxle) auto transmission. It is basically stock, with the exception of a hutch/harpoon and a new fuel pump over the winter, an AIS intake. I have a magnaflow exhaust kit in the garage along with bellowed up pipes but have not installed them yet.
Here is my issue. Several times over the last 2 years, the truck will pull a load, or long trip, and with complete randomness, the engine will feel like it has shut off, there is usually a jerk or two, and the truck "restarts" itself and continues on like nothing happened. Last year we drove 1.5 hrs from home with the boat in tow, driving up Snoqualmie pass, and it died completely, no restart. We had to be towed home. It started right up at the shop, so no real clue of what happened.
When this happened, I had the fuel system checked for pressure and replaced the engine fuel filter, and all was good. I also had the Cam position sensor replaced/updated to the new grey sensor. Shortly after, I had the minor jerk/stall occur again, so I replaced the fuel pump and did the hutch/harpoon mod to ensure there wasn't an intermittent fuel pressure loss and that the in tank filters were not clogged.
Last weekend, i pulled my boat to Oregon, and the same "hiccup" happened as I was about 1.5 hrs into my trip. it was fine after that the rest of the 4 hr trip. We also drove back the same route and had no problems.
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I've got a '08 F250 XLT that the cruise control has become intermittent. It works most of the time but at times it will "go out to lunch" and not do anything. I've taken the controls from the wheel and didn't see any gummed up coke spills or anything there. It may not be anything but twice when it failed while on a trip I pulled over and shut the truck down. Started it up and the cruise would go back to working. Once I did this and it went back to working only to shut off in about 2 seconds but I was able to engage it again and it kept working. When it stops working there is no green indicator on the dash either.
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Driving home tonight and heard and intermittent "chug chug chug" noise from the front end. Seemed to start after hitting a bump, then once I stop the truck, it goes away until the next bump.
2005 F350 fx4 CCLB 6.0 ...
Brakes were just replaced, one warped rotor and new calipers. I checked each tire and no signs of rubbing, no excess heat, no pulsing in the brakes or while stopping. Just had all new Moog problem solver ball joints, tie rods, and drag link installed less than a month ago. U-Joints are good, Spicer brand.
No loose parts, nothing with any play, no signs of wear anywhere that I could see, and the truck doesn't seem to drive or handle any differently. No jerking, wobbling or pulling that I could tell.
Here is a video : [URL] .....
Also, I have four new Bilstein 5100 shocks on the way since mine are pretty well toast, if that would make a difference. The truck definitely has a lot of bounce over bumps, almost floaty. And you can easily push down on the front tow hooks and watch the front end just bounce up and down a few times....
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