Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Idling At Startup Make Truck Deliver Power Smoother / Battery Light Stays Off
Oct 6, 2016
I would like to know what's happening, it seems as if idling for a minute to let my transmission temperature dial raise past the lowest line on the dial fixes or at least drastically reduces a couple issues.
The truck will deliver power much smoother off the line. I've been concerned about this for a while. The degree to which it happened wasn't constant but it seems like the truck is having trouble grabbing on (so to say) to the power coming off the line. I sort of liken it to a rope. When I give it the beans the rope goes forward but it takes a half a second or so for the truck to "grab" on to the rope. Never hard shifts, it's just delivering the power off the line or from a near stop.
Idling for a minute seems to fix this, power delivery is smooth off the line. Transmission dipstick was nice and pink but smelled slightly burnt. This is with the engine cold overnight. Didn't have time to do multiple wipes or check in the handbook for the proper methods of checking fluid, I just pulled it out quickly to take a look before heading out. Fluid covered the whole tip.
Second issue that seems to be fixed is that the battery light doesn't come on nearly as much and not for nearly as long. Typically the battery light will come on and off seemingly on its own whim during the drive. However, it seems to stay more consistently off if I idle right after startup.
Now bear in mind I baby my truck, I don't rev it high right after startup. Just low enough to cruise around the parking lot until I hit the road then I accelerate up to 40 - 60 depending on my route. I'd gladly give it the minute to warm up in the future but if I could get down to the bottom of this that'd be preferred, I doubt this is required behavior.
I do realize that these issues are not tied to startup behavior but I find it interesting that idling for a minute at startup to let the transmission gauge rise seems to mitigate these symptoms.
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
I am working on a 2006 f450 6.0l. My problem is when I take key out of the ignition the power stays on in truck. Radio stays on and windows. I swapped out relays checked door jam switch I am stuck. Looking for wiring diagrams so I can trace the wire.
View 5 Replies
Long story short: I bought my 2003 F-250 super duty 6.0 used back in January. It had one Ford OEM battery and one Walmart special. I had them tested and they were both completely flat. Replaced the set of batteries the next day. Since then, upon cranking the truck, the battery indicator will be illuminated while the truck is running. It will stay on for a length of time that varies based on the day. It will eventually turn off after driving a while, but will come back on if I kill the truck and crank it again (like when running to a store).
The batteries have been tested 4 times and test just fine. No problems with the batteries. The OBD 2 computer/monitor I have installed reads a voltage of around 13 when the truck is running. What to do to solve this problem. It isn't a major issue as the truck always cranks fine and the batteries are not damaged or anything, it is more of a annoying thing. It bugs the crap out of me.
View 4 Replies
2005 F-350 6L diesel .... Put new batteries in it a week ago.
Been running good then the radio quit a couple of times. It came back on after truck was restarted. This morning I go to town and the battery light comes on. I stopped and started about 5 times and on the 6th it wouldn't start.
I got a boost and started home it , started to try and quit when I was almost home. Was so dead the power windows wouldn't even work. Have it on the battery charger now and it starts right up but the battery light is still on and the ABS light is on.
View 6 Replies
Driving down the highway, battery gauge read fine power, but battery light came on. In a remote Alaska situation so I couldn't diagnose, plus truck is new to me. Kept driving towards civilization. All gauge dropped. Then lights dimmed, then truck died. This was over about 15 miles. At night with lights on. Truck has a plow with plow lights, aftermarket cranking stereo which I was using, heater on (Alaska). It sits 70 miles up the highway from where I'm at getting ready to go back and work on it. So...
Of course first thought it is the alternator, not providing enough power for all this. Looked inside, it is a newer looking reman. Belt is fine. My question is, if not this, what else could it be? I'm hoping to haul the alternator and whatever else out there and get it going without having to drive back and forth for more stuff I need. I can always return stuff I don't use. Probably I'll throw a new battery in it as well. But after that, anything else I should be thinking/ready for?
View 4 Replies
So when i shut my truck off the heater will occasional keep blowing. it also has a string of LED type lights inside the dash by the speedometer, those also stay on sometimes. It's happened before and we thought we had it fixed. We had a whole new fuse box put in and some kind of module. What could be the problem? I am thinking maybe some kind of wiring?
View 9 Replies
Any such system in which they can take the key out of the ignition while leaving the vehicle running? I'd like to be able to do this for security purposes of my brand new 2015 250 if I have to run into a store or something of the like. I don't like the idea of leaving the key in the ignition and locking the doors as anyone could break the window and drive off with the truck.
View 7 Replies
I just changed out my IAC. Truck is still idling too high. When I squeeze the host to the IAC it idles down. When I unplug the IAC the truck immediately dies.
Does the IAC talk to the the Throttle position sensor? Should this be my next part to change?
2002 F250 5.4L ....
View 4 Replies
I have a 2001 250 Super Duty. I am having an intermittent issue with the electrical system and transmission. I don't drive this vehicle very much so it sits for 7-14 days at a time.
Previously I had the od light flashing and had the transmission solenoid replaced. A few weeks ago I decided to drive it to the corner store. As I arrive home the od light starts flashing and the transmission starts shifting funny. I pull into my parking spot and turn the truck off. I sensed the shut off was weird so I tried to start the truck. NO POWER! None! I go back to the truck a few days later and it starts up without an issue.
Approx. 20 miles later it starts again. This time I have to jump the battery. I ran the truck and it drove without issue. Again a couple weeks later it starts in again with the light flashing and electrical dying. What it may be? I'm probably going to get rid of the truck as I can;t justify to myself to keep dumping money into it.
View 5 Replies
I got a 2000 f250, 5.4l, I got a check engine light bout 2 weeks ago and didn't experience any driving issues. The code was p0171, just recently I've been experience troubles idling, if I let my truck idle for about 3 minutes it will want to shut off, also on acceleration the hole truck bumps, feels like I'm in an earthquake. Where I should start with this problem?
View 11 Replies
The brake light stays on all the time. It started 5+ years ago going out intermittently, then began going out more frequently for longer as the years went by, until now, where it stays on continuously (except for one small miracle where it cam back on during a short drive around town). I don't normally care if it stays on, but for the first time in 7 years I'm going on a long road trip and can not engage cruise control with the light on.
View 9 Replies
2005 F250 4x4, manual locking hubs, ABS light stays on. Plugged it up, front sensors had a bad signal. Replaced both front sensors, still had light. Pulled out the sensors, cleaned the sensor rings the best we could with a little screwdriver. Installed the sensors, cleared the codes. Drove the truck a few miles, light came back on. Plugged it up, same codes. Removed the sensors and there was grease back on the sensor rings. Cleaned it up again, ran through the motions, drove it, light comes back on. Is there supposed to be grease on the sensor ring? It keeps coming back in every time it is driven. My next guess would be the hub bearings are going bad?
View 4 Replies
Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
View 3 Replies
In my 2014 F250/6.2, if the truck sits unstarted for 10 - 14 days it will usually kill the battery. I mean dead enough to not even power the dome lights. Do the various modules in these trucks draw that much that it would cause this? I'm getting ready to install a couple of 5 Star tunes in the truck. But if I need to take it to a dealer for some warranty coverage for this problem I'll hold off. There's never been a tune in it to this point and I don't want a warranty claim denied for that reason.
View 14 Replies
I have a f250 super duty. I blew a brake line the main going to the rear. So the genius that I am I replaced the line an simple enough I decide hell why not replace the master cylinder too, so I did an I bleed the brakes an everything works jst fine but now the the brake light won't turn off I have tried everything not sure what could possibly cause the light to stay on. I will eliminate some suggestions, I bleed the brakes, the brake fluid is full, the level sensor is completely attached, the parking brake is not on, I pulled the parking brake completely out, even completely disconnected the sensor thinking it would turn off bu it didn't.
View 1 Replies
I recently had a close encounter with some large rocks on a bad road and broke the power steering cooler. I lost some fluid and pressure as I had no brakes and it steered like a log truck. Replaced the damaged part and added fluid. I was informed by ford technician that air in the lines would make noise but would eventually work itself out. Well the brakes work and steering is getting better but it is noisy with steering and brakes. How long should it take to get the air out? PS the fluid looks foamy now. I should also mention it was making a slight humming noise before the incident with the rock.
View 9 Replies
2000 crew cab powerstroke 4x4... It's a XLT, six inch lift, weld wheels, BFG all terrain (50%). 277,000. One owner. Clean Carfax. All service done by purchase dealer. Mostly stock other than that. Dealer just replaced AC compressor and charged system. Interior is good, except for driver's edge seat. Good cleaning and ok.
The (my?) Truck.Downside. Power door locks make noise but don't work, remote mirror switch intermittent, stereo broken. During my test drive (alone) it drove straight, stopped straight and hard. 4x4 engaged and worked well. No noise in system. Good acceleration. No rattles or noises. Doesn't drip anything on the ground. Cruise and all accessories work.
I'm supposed to go in Monday. My girl is afraid of the mileage. But it seems well maintained for 17 years old. Is 10k an acceptable price? They wanted 11,900. Anything I should be looking for?
View 7 Replies
All you need to do is pull out the head lite switch find the solid brown wire that is the running lights wire now find the yellow wire this is fog lights wire (these wires are on the gray plug ) you need a 3" piece of wire and 2 blue wire connectors it slips over the wires no cutting any wires then slide wire in the other end of the blue connector after you jump them your fog lights will come on with running lights and will not go off with high beams...
View 4 Replies
Had this issue for a while, but it doesn't seem to cause a problem. It's more of a curiosity than anything... Most of the time, the dome light operates as usual- close the door and the light stays on for a bit before shutting off. But about a quarter of the time, the light goes off immediately after the door is shut. It's done this the entire time I've owned the truck (about 2-1/2 years). Why?
View 1 Replies
When I hook my battery cable up to my battery when negative cable my truck automatically starts turning over without the key in it what could be the problem
View 1 Replies
I bought a crew from a dealer, all the dome lights and cargo lights had the bulbs removed, so i put them back in and of coarse they all stayed on after you close the door, plus the door ajar light stays on when you are driving. I do notice the radio shuts off when you open the door after you turn off the ignition. Does that work on the same door switch, eliminating those?
Also are there switches on the rear doors also? Noticed that the radio isn't effected when you open a rear door. I tried to get the dealer to look at it a day after i took it home, a ford dealer at that, and they told me they tried to figure it out , and couldn't before they sold me the truck. Doesn't say much for their service department.
View 13 Replies