Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Idles Really Rough When Its Cold / No Power For About 10 Minutes
Nov 5, 2015
Need this software that would be willing to run a diagnostic on my truck? I replaced all the glow plugs a year ago and the relay a month ago. It idles really rough when it's cold (first start of the day with outside temps even at 90 degrees). It has no power for about 10 minutes. Sounds like an old John Deere 2 cylinder tractor for a few minutes. I have 370K miles on it. After it warms up it runs good. Plugging it in doesn't make a difference. There is no smoke while it is warming up. I have noticed when I accelerate quickly, it blows black smoke (not heavy but when following it you see and smell it).
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I have a 2005 f250 with a 5.4 3v. I bought the truck with a cracked passenger side exhaust manifold about a year ago. We'll here recently the crack got worse and was giving the code P0171, so I had a shop replace it. I picked the truck up and not even a mile down the road it started idling terrible at lights and had very poor acceleration. And it gave me P0174 this time. It's only gotten worse now it's reading P0172, P0174,P0161, and P1489. I've replaced the spark plugs, MAF sensor, both vct solenoid, an the upstream o2 sensor on the passenger side. I also know I don't have any intake or vacuum leaks, I've had a shop check and so have I. It's starting to get expensive just replacing stuff. So, maybe I have a clogged catalytic converter ?
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My 2003 F250 6.0 It started about a month ago and got worse. Let truck idle for 4-5minutes and idle will jump a few hundred rpms. Got worse as it idles and cant figure it out. It eventually died and died once while driving but starred right back up.
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My 05 f250 v10 runs rough at points and sometimes quits when driving. I find it too that I can't rev it in park or neutral and sometimes when it is cold I can. I was wondering if it was a tps or something with the intake...
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On a cold crank the engine idles rough until it warms or the accelerator is pressed down. Also runs rough going up hills or towing. Check engine light is on and is throwing the code for bank 1 to lean and cat performance below threshold. Cats have been tested, good. Fuel trim tested, good. One mechanic said noth8ng is wrong with it well, there is. 2011 f250 6.2 gas...
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I am the proud owner of a 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4, which has 158K miles on it. I live in South Florida and use the truck as my daily driver and also from trips up into the Blue Ridge Mountains.
Recently, I noticed that when I have the A/C on it blows nice and cold for about 15 minutes, but then the air gets really warm. I had the system checked and the Freon levels are right where they should be. A bit of experimenting reveals that if I turn off the A/C for about 10 or 15 minutes after it starts to blow warm air, the systems blows cool air as it is supposed to.
Therefore, I suspect that something is freezing under the hood and preventing the system from operating properly. Since A/C is pretty well essential for us in south Florida, this is a problem, when I have the family or customers in the truck.
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I have a 99 F350 with a V10. I just replaced all the spark plugs and a bad coil which solved the very bad misfire I had going on. I also just changed the fuel pump and fuel filter.
When I start the truck, it idles just fine, nice and smooth. After sitting there for a short bit, maybe a couple minutes, it starts to idle rough, not so rough that it's about to shut off, just a little rough. This lasts maybe a minute and then goes back to nice and smooth and stays that way.
I've thought maybe the EGR valve or Idle air control valve but I'm not sure if I'm way off or sort of close.
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2002 7.3 running rough.
This is my symptoms : On cold start ups engine runs rough. Idling it knocks worse than normal on the road she runs really rough. If I get on here she smooths out ( but still runs rough a bit) but normal driving at between 1200 -2000 rpm she runs so rough it shakes the whole truck. It will do this until she gets up to operating temp & then it goes away. The more she warms up the better she runs.
Once up to temp she will run perfectly. The colder it is outside the worse it is & the longer it takes for it to go away. I have replaced the valve cover gaskers and new harnesses, new glow plugs. Still same problems. I have AE and one time it gave me a #2 cylinder code. have not been able to repete this code. What to check next.
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So, I have a 2007 f250 with the 6.0. When she's cold she starts fine but runs rough like she has a miss. When she warms up the miss goes away and it runs pretty good. But if I shut it off it won't start for about an hour or so.
ICP sensor has been replaced.
FICM is putting out 50v
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I have a 2000 F250, SuperCab, 5.4 triton, 100,000 miles. It's been a great truck - got it at 63,000 miles. Once engine warms up, it has rough idle, and shift rough. I can give it gas to RPMs up and it smooths out some but is low on power. If this was my 76 F150, I would guess the vacuum hose off the intake manifold to the transmission came loose.
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I've got a 2003 6.0 that's got a rough idle and low power situation. Doesn't matter hot or cold it has a hard start issue but when it finally starts it has a rough idle, sometimes it has low power on take off but not always. FICM has 48.8 volts coming out, exhaust just had a new y-pipe (had a cracked bellow) absolutely no smoke coming out. When I drive it hard it's like a rocket no rough spots just did oil with filters and fuel filters, blue spring upgrade, and cleaned out the turbo.
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Last night, I left it running while unloading a trailer and come back to notice it was idling abnormal. I jumped in it and tried to move it and there was a noticeable loss of power. I unhooked the trailer and tried to get it home. I only made it 1/2 mile down the road when it started spitting and sputtering (surging ever now and then) to a level that it died completely. I was able to start it back and get it out of the road but had to be pulled into a drive. It got to a point it wouldn't start back at all.
Today it started up however still had a rough idle and really has no power to speak of. The more I messed with it the less power it seem to have.
I have searched the forums and tried these things:
1) Checked the oil and noticed it was on the low end of the operating range. I put some in it to put it back to normal.
2) Disconnected the ICP
3) Changed the crankshaft position sensor
4) I dumped the fuel bowl after it completely died (in case it had any water in the fuel bowl).
The fuel filter was just changed 2 weeks ago. The fuel pump seems to be operating correctly (or it at least refilled the bowl) and started again with a very rough idle.
It doesn't have a engine light on nor do I have anything to read any codes it may be showing.
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I have a 2003 e350 with a 6.0 lt. diesel and an automatic trans. The problem is when its cold there is no power ( 10 mph max ). When it warms up it does just fine. The other problem witch I think is connected is when it shifts I lose all power to my gauges and radio for a split second. I am thinking transmission but not sure.
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I have a 2001 7.3 ford the seal in the turbo went and oil went in the exhaust. lots of oil like 10 quarts. I had a rebuilt turbo installed ran great for 2 weeks then one day out of the blue started idling rough and then downward from there no power stalling etc I have my super chip scanner it read dtcs of 1249 478 1211 and 238. Is it possible the muffler is plugged with oil? or is it and ipr? 193000 miles....
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I had a leaking coolant crossover so had to remove that and replace it with a new one. In doing so i removed the air assembly, throttle body, fuel injectors, and Spark plug coils. I reassembled everything, no more leaks but now my GAS engine sounds like a school bus. I've lost power, going up hill is rough, once i hit 40mph my car starts to shake a little bit but when I am on a straight away it will sometimes drive normal and sometimes go back to driving slowly. it also idles rough.
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2005 250 5-speed total oil pressure loss ... At 110k mechanic diagnosed failing phasers from noise, rough idle, loss of power under 1k rpm. (Crew cab long box xl bought new for $25k)(first 100k were from carpenters (hard miles) so this truck is barebones and usefulness is much higher than cash value). Truck has 146k
All symptoms typically disappear over 1k rpm so I have limited idle time and manipulated engine speed to try and maintain 1000-1200 and all has been well for past 36k miles. Today noise (valve clatter?) persisted at all rpm and during a scramble to get off the highway all oil pressure was lost (I'm aware that pressure gauge on dash is not 100% reliable). After total pressure loss I cut engine and called tow truck. Out of curiosity, I actuated ignition and motor cranked maybe two rotations, and then appeared seized. After about 45 min waiting for tow I went back to disengage 4wd and take my rifles and skis out of truck. At this time I actuated ignition again and engine fired and ran as it had for past 36k miles. I drove about one mile constantly watching oil pressure gauge, then noise returned followed by instant drop from normal to 0 pressure (dash gauge) I immediately shut of engine.
I am a mechanical engineer, but not a mechanic. I am familiar with the cam phaser system and I understand that their operation is directly related to oil pressure. Today's temp was under 0'F. I have a very skilled mechanic who works for around 30-40% of cost of licensed shop and I know his skills to be on par.
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Here is this wonderful 5.4 's issue now, sometimes it will idle rough, sometimes it wont. sometimes it feels like it wants to stall, other times not. if im driving about 30mph up a hill around 1700 rpm, the engine feels like a bucking horse, it will kinda want to produce the power, but cant seem to find it till the trans drops to a lower gear. With this engine power loss is unacceptable because it came out of the factory with no power, i cant afford to loose more.
there is no check engine light. its been doing this on and off for a week. i dont drive it much, may 15 miles a day. i thought maybe it was bad gas , i had it sitting for a month, but since then ran almost 2 tanks of gas through it. Seems to act the worst when driving it, then letting it idle for 5 mins, then drive it again, that's when its very noticeable. no smoke from exhaust, no mixing of oil and anti freeze, plugs are a year old, filter is new.
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The 2003 F250 5.4 Superduty has no power and keeps stalling. If I floor the gas it just stalls. I've replaced the pcv valve and line, the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump, and cleaned the tank, changed out the gas, added Lucas, and it just won't run right. Desperate, and no codes are coming up...
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I have a ford f250 with a 5.4l 2v engine and lately it started to shake when it idles. i have changed all the ignition coils and spark plugs, the injector are fine, but i cant seem to pinpoint the problem. the weird thing is that there are no codes. the fuel trim on bank 1 is around -8 and bank 2 is at almost positive 20 and higher.
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It has 100k on the clock. I bought it about 2 years ago and only put about 500 miles on it. It is only used as a farm truck. Historically it would periodically die at idle in park. Would always start up immediately and run fine. Plenty of power.
Today the truck started up and idled a few seconds and started idling rough. It died and would restart but has zero power. Put it in gear and it would die. Did this a few times now can't even get it started.
I checked all fuses. I checked the dist cap and rotor. Don't look the best but don't think this is the problem. I get the same result on both front and rear tanks. From what I have read sounds like a fuel pump or regulator. Where is the regulator located?
1997 F450 superduty 7.5 gas ...
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Alright, I have a 2002 f350 7.3 4x4 ext cab xlt with 300k miles. Bought in may 2016 with 260k miles and towards November started running rough and felt like a loss of power. Had a no start but a new gray cps fixed that issue. Running fine. About a week later started it up and it had a rough idle, felt like not all cylinders/injectors were working. Was "knocking" and a loss of power. I was in the army at the time and stationed in Georgia, took it to a local diesel shop in Georgia and they confirmed my icp sensor was bad and injector #1 , #5 #7 were bad. Work was busy and money was scarce so I left it as it is and was saving up to buy the new parts. Then one day approx a week after the visit to the shop, I started the truck up and it ran fine. No misfire no knock no rough idle, drove fine for about a month.
In December, I was on vacation in florida to see my parents, drove the truck down, ran fine. While on vacation one day in a Walmart parking lot the truck didn't start up. Couldn't fix any issues then so towed the truck to my parents house. Did more troubleshoot, replaced fuel filter, cps, ipr valve, icp sensor, glow plugs, glow plug relay, ebpv pedestal was replaced with a ebpv delete pedestal. All parts bought oem and/or from riffraff diesel. Still would not start up. So then I bought a refurbished IDM from eBay, oem and then the truck finally started up one day but running rough again like it used to, then it wouldn't start again. So then, I replaced the PCM with a reflashed/refurbished one off eBay and boom truck started up, still running rough but now it starts up every time.
Now, took all eight injectors out and replaced all the o rings. Cleaned them up and put them back in, truck still running rough. Injectors didn't appear damaged nor the wiring harness so now I bought three reman injectors from riffraff. And replaced those three bad injectors. One of them is not spitting oil out the oil spout on the injector.
My dad has worked on freightliner semi trucks for years and is fairly knowledgeable when it comes to diesels. However he did something very amateurish the other day. So two injectors were installed while we were still waiting on the third in the mail. He wanted to see how the engine reacts when that one bad injector was not in play, but instead of unplugging the injector under the valve cover, he cut the wire outside the valve cover to the injector. He stated it's not a big deal and he can solder the wires back together. But once he cut the wire, the truck sounded a lot stronger, still rough idle but definitely stronger. Before, you would be pedal to the floor and the truck barely moves forward but now the truck will lunge forward. A big difference in power.
Now today, third injector came, swapped them out and fired up truck. We didn't solder the wire yet just quick connect, same you would use to connect wires for a car stereo. The new injector was not spitting oil out the oil spout. Even at high rev and truck warmed up. Truck still runs better with that one injector unplugged.
Tomorrow we will troubleshoot if somehow there's wires that grounding out or burnt out somewhere but as of right now everything seems to be in order, the uvch are tight, and no signs of anything burnt.
Triple checked everything, still getting fuel pressure, still getting oil pressure what gives? I also replaced the MAP sensor. Fuel pump is fine, fuel gets to fuel bowl. The next thing I'm thinking is maybe the hpop but we have oil pressure so idk..
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