Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Hunting For Right Gear - Constantly Locking / Unlocking TC
Sep 1, 2017
I have been running SRL and love how it woke the truck up, however it seems like it hunts around a bit for the right gear sometimes and feels like it is constantly locking unlocking TC. I recently switched to 8K tow because I am going to be pulling a horse trailer soon and wanted to see how it felt first and it drives way better. I miss the extra getup and go of the SRL but it shifts way better and doesn't hunt around. Is there some adjustment on SCT I can do that would fix this issue with SRL tune?
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Curious as to whether the lights flashing when locking or unlocking the doors on the '06 F series was an option or standard equipment? I know that they flash when you lock the doors (hitting the button twice) but curious at to whether you can make them flash when you unlock (rather than just the interior light coming on).
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Was pulling passat home 50 miles round trip this saturday and downshifted into 3rd. As the gear engaged it let out a loud clunk locking into 3rd gear. was able to find neutral after a day but slammed into gear just idling. Can find neutral on pattern but not actually get there....also drags right rear tire upon disengaging clutch.
1999&half psd zf6 1 ton single....
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Brings back memories of my many projects from back in the day. Anyway, my uncle has this f250. He said 4x4 wouldn't automatically lock the hubs in. I tested the vacuum pulse valve on the fender and changed it out. Now the hubs will lock in when you turn the light on the dash but it will not unlock the hubs unless you go outside and manually turn the hubs to engage then back to auto. Only then will the front end be unlocked. I notice small puffs of air blowing back from behind the hub themselves so I was thinking it's time to reseal the vacuum portion of the hubs.
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Any good remedy for constantly freezing door seals? I have a 06 extended cab and the rubber seal between the 2 doors makes an excellent "lock" when water freezes and all but welds the doors together. I damn near broke the paddle handle trying to pull on it. I wasn't keen on dumping water on the top of the seal since the glass is so cold and the water doesn't seem to penetrate anyway. I was thinking of wiping the seals heavily with anti-freeze? or motor oil? No, a garage is not an option.
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My abs light is constantly on, is it a sensor?
2008 F250, 5.4 l, 4wd .....
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I have a 2007 Ford E450 Superduty Box truck with a V10 and 70,000 miles. For the 6 years I have owned it, the AC has always been ice cold. This summer it will not blow cold under any driving situation.
When the AC is on AC, AC max, or defrost, the compressor clutch constantly engages for 1.5 seconds then disengages for 5 seconds. I bought a can of refrigerant and added only about 1/4 of it to reach proper psi for the current temperature.
If I remove either the high or low pressure switch clips, the compressor stops engaging. Is it possible that one of the switches has failed in that it is activating at an incorrect pressure? Unfortunately our local Ford dealer here is notoriously devious and while they may fix the problem, I will probably have an entirely new system by the time they are done.
I've ruled out coolant, air gap does not seem to apply and both hi and low pressure switches are active. What am I missing?
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I have a 2008 6.4 Diesel 4x4, and the TC is not locking. The ABS sensors were changed prior to me purchasing the truck as well as the dash and reflashed. I have recently changed the following within the last two weeks:
Internal harness
External harness
TCC solenoid
Tranny filter
I get no codes, but the ABS light is on, and the speedo doesn't work. I know on OBS trucks, the clock spring could affect it, but I am not sure about this newer ones.
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The other day I was checking out my parking aids (they kept saying something was behind me when there was nothing there) and the horn just started blowing by itself, constant on until I disconnected the batteries. Been a few days and just got back to working on it, checked the horn switch in the airbag and it is functioning fine. Hooked the batteries back up, no horn, but after a couple of minutes I start getting little honks out of it, then locked on again. Where I should go from here? Truck was parked, switch off, engine off today when I hooked the batteries up. Never started it or turned the key on.
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Driving home from work yesterday, dry roads, truck unloaded, running around 50mph, had a dog almost run out in front of me. I hit the brakes hard and came to a stop. But, I noticed that my brakes did not lock up the tires. This was a bit of a surprise. My former 2003 Cummins would easily lock them up. Is my truck an anomaly? Can lock up your tires during a hard/panic stop?
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I have a piece of a warn locking hub that is stuck in the wheel hub. It is stuck in a Ford F-350 super duty SRW 6.8 V10 with a Dana 50 8 lug front axle. Everything seems stock, but we bought this beast late in its life. I have removed the locking hub cap, the inner locking gear, and the metal retaining ring that holds the outer gear in place. The other side just falls apart as it should at this point.
I have tried building a custom puller utilizing the 6 hex cap screws (that attach the locking hub cap) to pull in on two 1/8" thick c channels held off with a 1/2" bolt pushing in the middle of the c channels on the axle. In one case, I sheared off the bolt, and bent the c channels. I tried it again and that time broke several of the hex cap screws off.
I have ran through penetrating oil, wd-40, propane (for a torch) and carb and brake cleaner as I tried heating up the hub while applying penetrating oil and letting things sit, then spraying out rust and such with carb or brake cleaner to loosen things up, then repeating the process over and over again. I have done this process several times. It worked on the center where the axle goes through the inner gear, so now the inner gear is now loose from the axle. But the outside is still suck like no other.
Lightly hitting on it with a 3lb sledge to crack something lose has done nothing, and left me struggling not to beat it much harder with a bigger hammer with a longer handle.
As a note, it took weeks to get the center locking gear to fall out after doing the oil, heat, and spray cleaner process, then driving with it locked in, and it took two attempts and hours to get the cap off from stuck hex cap screws, several which I had to drill out in the end after even an impact screw driver would not work. The U-Joint is bad, and I can't lock in the 4WD which is problematic at the dump and on job sites when it is muddy especially when we are towing a maxed out 5k single axle trailer that wants to dig in to the mud too.
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I went to replace my driver's hub bearing last night. Found pieces missing from the locking hub (manual). I ordered them last night it's the snap ring and washers but will not be here till next Monday. Can I run the new bearing with out hurting it. It has already ruined the seals on that side I just don't have the time to take it all the way down. So if I install the bearing and don't put all the guts in the locking hub (I know the locking hub won't work) Dont need 4x4 right now but need to be able to drive it some. Just don't want to mess up the 250 dollar bearing I just got.
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Back in March while still plowing, my auto locking hubs wouldn't stay engaged. After talking to the local Ford service shop they told me that it was moisture in the vaccum lines and that it had frozen. They told me to manually lock the hubs and bring it in to be repaired when I had time. I made a appointment in the middle of May and finally got it in last week. Now the hubs are seized in the locked position and they will not warranty the work or parts because they say it was caused by the salt from our roads. Does this sound right?
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty, that was wrecked a few months ago. I have put the truck back together with the mechanic. The front drivers side was wrecked. The power steering fluid tank was cracked and had to be replaced. Also had problems with a box behind the drivers headlight? I did hard wire it together and it fixed the problems I was having the the speedometer and the transmission not shifting correctly. Everything is put back together now but I drove it today and the brakes locked down after driving it a few miles?
Had to push the truck hard to get it back to my house, a mile or so. If I let off the gas it would come to a quick stop. It is ALL four brakes locking up. If it sits for awhile they unlock but will lock up again after driving. The truck is lifted and the ABS light has come on. It was not on before but i am pretty sure the ABS is disabled on the truck. The wires are hanging down by each tire. This is how they truck was when i bought it. Not sure what is causing the brakes to lock up.
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OK I am pretty sure my warn locking hub is shot. I put it in the lock position and I can still turn my u joint by hand. I got the cap off and the otter metal ring out. There was No inner snap ring to take out. So now it should Just come out right?
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2000 f350 7.3 Door locks unlock and lock constantly. Wait to start light and 4x4 lights don't come on. Gauges stopped working and clicking behind dash.
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I did my ball joints, and the drivers side oem manual locking hub was a bear to wiggle out but eventually came. When I put it back in after I finished, the wire retaining ring clicked into place but wasn't seated as far in as the passenger side (I could still see the wire). Didn't think much of it. Drove off. 30 miles later I heard a pop and saw the hub rolling down the road behind me.
Stopped and picked it up, went home managed to find a pair of locking rings i kept off my Dana 50, and I just cannot get it to go far enough in for the snap ring to fully seat in the groove. I tried tapping the axle further in, I tried tapping on the steel part of the hub with a deadblow, but it feels like it's in as far as it will go. Not sure what to do, driving without a locking hub right now.
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On my 05 350, I noticed the other day that my 4wd wasn't working, when I needed it of course. I quick test this morning and I discovered my PS hub is not locking in. I've read a lot of posts about it being the opposite, the auto portion causing a problem. In my case, it won't lock in in auto or manually turning. I can lock it in, spin the wheel and the axle shaft isn't turning. The pressure is the same as the other side, not too loose or too stiff. Can I pull the hub assembly off and rebuild it? I watched a video about that, but not sure on how my issue would allow me to work on it.
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My hubs will not lock when put into 4x4. I disconnected all lines from the solenoid to both hubs and tested them for leaks... All good there. I put a gauge on the lines at both hubs one at a time while the other is still connected and get no reading when switched into 4x4. I checked for vacuum right out of the solenoid, and I get 2inHg when switched into 4x.
The vacuum pump kicks on every time I start the truck, even if I just shut it off and re-start right away. There is no delay when switching my ac/heater controls to different settings or vent locations. So I know there is vacuum. How much vacuum I should be getting out of the solenoid to the hubs?
2004 F350 6.0L....
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I have an 06 F-250. I have had this truck since Oct 2013 and had never use 4 wheel drive here in southern Alabama, so my question is i lock my hubs, turn my selector to 4 high and it works. Now selecting to 4 low and I get nothing.
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I just ordered '00 F250 SC 4x4 SWB XLT with the factory standard manual hubs. The hubs show up on the vehicle order confirmation as code "21M MAN LOCKING HUB". I can't find this code in the ordering guides anywhere but kbb.com shows this code as "Manual hubs delete. Required with 213 shift-on-the-fly". I want the manual hubs. I think ##### is incorrect. For my piece of mind, could someone who has also ordered the factory standard manual hubs verify that the code is indeed 21M. And for those who ordered shift-on-the-fly, could you verify that 21M does NOT show up on your order confirmation...
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