Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Hub Switch Won't Unlock
Feb 16, 2014
My truck was involved in an accident and required a replacement front axle be installed due to damage to the housing. The truck was in four wheel drive when my wife got T-boned and drove up over the median twice to avoid a head on. The shop that did the insurance work said they replace the axle with a low mileage used unit, but since then the hub switches aren't working correctly.
I have taken it to them 4+ times to look at the issue and I keep telling them that the driver's side hub switch won't release, but I keep getting it back with the same problem. The most recent fix they came up with was to replace switches and electrical components. I am thinking that a vacuum leak in the hub may be to blame. I am taking the truck back to them again this afternoon as the 1 year warranty on the repairs is up next week.
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I just bought a 2000 Super Duty last week When I looked at it and test drove it, the doors unlocked with the fob. Then I bought it and the doors would not unlock with the fob. A day later, they would not unlock with the door controller. I can hear them clicking and see them move slightly. Where to start checking?
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Is there any way to make the headlights come on when i unlock the truck using my key fob. The only lights that come on are the inside light and cargo light. Its a 2006 f250 xlt.
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I just got a 99 F250 PSD, it had not been in 4wd in a while, now the hubs won't unlock.
My 01 F250 seemed to have strictly manual hubs. Turn right to lock, left to unlock. They may have been aftermarket, but on by the PO. Do I need to put some new Warns on the 99? Or can I lube then up and get them functional.
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When I put the truck in to park, the doors do not unlock. They work fine with the button or the key fob. What do I need to do to fix this issue. Its quite annoying considering I have passengers with frequently that need to open the door a lot.
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I've been researching a problem with my power door lock. On my 2002 F-250 Lariat Crew Cab PSD (not the 76' SuperCab)] since Saturday when they began demonstrating the following symptoms:
1) No response to key fob (either lock or unlock)
2) No response to door switches (initially responded to unlock command only)
3) Whenever the key fob or door switch is pushed, a clicking noise from behind the dash occurs for about 15-20 seconds
4) When the key is in the ignition, the clicking from behind the dash is constant
5) Intermitantly, the actuators attempt to lock the doors when I close the door
6) Intermitantly, the locks will respond to some comands
7) Auto down feature on the driver's door window stopped working.
I found the clicking was coming from a unit behind the radio and just above the transmission hump on the firewall.
There are several threads on power door locks and I thought it might work others to have short summary and some links in one post as I just spent the last two days finding and reading these.
The most popular fix involves pulling the actuators apart to remove a thermistor from the motor that is prone to failure. This apparently rejuvinates the actuator motors and the directions for completing this are listed here Power Door Locks FIXED It's a long thread, but there are lots of step-by-step directions including pictures etc.
I tried this on mine, but it didn't work. The clicking from behind the dash is a different problem. At least when I get this fixed I'll have good actuator motors.
The next most popular fix simply involves spraying WD-40 into the door latches (not the hinges, but the latches). This seems to work for many people who have problems with the dome light staying on and other door switch related problems. Check out Door Open Light On Dash What Up? for more info on that.
I tried this too, but, unfortunately, the clicking is more than can be solved with a little WD-40. The Door Open Light On thread had some references to the Vehicle Security Module.
I found a number of threads on clicking from behind the dash and these threads all seem to point to a problem with the General Electrical Module (GEM) or the Vehicle Security Module (VSM). From what I could find, the VSM may have been a new part introduced in 2002 that replaced the GEM (but I'm not sure about this). Here are a couple of the more useful threads I found:
VSM Theory
Dash Open Light On Dash What Up?
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Seems like my truck won't move at 4x4 when getting into and out of parkings. Combination of low speed and turning feels like I am fighting the truck and need to apply more power to get it moving and then there are strange noises.
Is this normal behavior from 4x4 system? I think it is but just want to make sure that constant switching between 4x4 and 2x4 is normal. I was just to AWD cars before that.
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2000 superduty. When you hit the door lock/unlock button, they try but won't move up or down on any of the 4 doors. The switches no longer are illuminated either. Where or have a wiring schematic for the drivers door with power windows/locks? I have done some testing for power, which seems to me there isn't enough voltage going to the actuators, but I can't seem to find power anywhere. The power mirrors don't work either. All fuses are good.
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I recently purchased a 2003 F-250. The door locks don't work properly, the passenger side will lock the entire truck all 4 door locks actually lock. The unlock on the passenger side does not work and neither does the entire switch in the driver side. I attempted to switch the actual switches from the driver to passenger side thinking that it could be a switch that is broken.
After doing that still only the passenger side would lock and the rest of lock unlock buttons did nothing. I have checked all the fuses in my truck and actually took the door panels off today thinking I might find an obvious problem. I know the actuators are a common problem but because all the locks lock in the vehicle I was thinking it might be something else.
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2005 Ford F250 5.4 ... Having problems with ignition switch or bus bar in that circuit being bad?
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where do the wires from the cabin aux switches end up? Are any pre wired to outside of the cab (past the firewall?).
i was wanting to install a better back up light on an aux switch but don't want to deal with running thru firewall, etc.
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I got a new headlamp switch for my 2016 SD. I have the XL work truck with no fog lights. I recently added fog lights and an OEM fog light wire harness. I also got an OEM switch that pulls out to activate the fig lights because the stock switch in my truck operates the headlamps only. What I can't figure out is how to remove the switch.
Here's a photo of the new switch .....
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As I pulled in to park I slid only 3 or 4 inches and just kissed a snow bank, didn't even think anything of it. An hour later truck wouldn't start until I reset the inertia switch. Man that thing is sensitive!
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Having trouble tracking down the problem with my 4wd. Its a 2003 6.0. My esof switch is not working. The 4wd light comes on when I start the truck but nothing after that. I checked fuses and the relays under the hood everything is good.
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Just started a job with a company that has F250 super duty service vehicles and I am puzzled. All the answers I find don't seem to apply to this vehicle. With a full front seat and the big center console it kinda sucks to have to reach over or walk around to manual lock passenger door 10 times a day. I do NOT have power door lock buttons, number pad on handle, or any type of keyless remote. It seems I only have the safety feature lock/unlock at start up and cutoff. So is there anyway to make it not unlock passenger door when I turn ignition off? I even tried pulling fuse 17 that is marked as lock motors thinking that was related with no success. The dash display doesn't have the option to disable as listed in the manual as one of the 4 ways to turn it off. And for reference it does not behave the way the manual says about autolocking at 12mph. Its instant lock on key turn on and instant unlock both doors on key off.
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Ok, it's cold out... is there a way that I can use my factory key fob to lock and unlock the doors with the truck running? 2000 F350.
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2000 f350 7.3 Door locks unlock and lock constantly. Wait to start light and 4x4 lights don't come on. Gauges stopped working and clicking behind dash.
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I have a E99 f250XLT 4X4 Crew Cab PSD.
I have been on this site for the better part of 2 hours searching for my switch problem to no end. Most everything I am pulling up has to do with the lock actuators. I have a switch on the drivers side that will not lock any of my doors. The passenger side switch will work just fine as well as the key fob. All of my actuators work for all 4 doors. No issues with the dome light or door ajar light staying on.
Here is what I have done so far:
I have taken the passenger door switch off and put it on the drivers side and it will not lock the doors.
I have bought a re-manufactured driver side door lock switch and installed it and it did not lock the doors.
I have taken a jumper wire and grounding a pin on the drivers side switch harness and can get the doors to unlock but i can't get it to lock.
Where and what color wires to look for in a harness at the door kick panel or anywhere I might look for a broken wire? It is really frustrating that I can not lock my doors without using my remote.
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2007 E450 Van. Dash light came on. OBD2 reader indicates: P2196 Ford - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch Sensor Indicates Rich
I need to find out which sensor to replace. It looks like I need to replace Bank 1, Sensor 1, but I am not sure where it is located. My guess it's located on the manifold, but I'm not sure if it's driver or passenger side.
A friend says, "Look in the owners manual for the van and find out which cylinder is cylinder number 1. Cylinder 1 is always on Bank 1."
The owner's manual has no indication of where cylinder one is located. I do not have a service manual.
I am not highly technical, but I do think I can replace the sensor myself, or at least I would like to give it a try.
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I've checked the fuses, the lights are on on the switches, but I have no power at the wires under the hood. I'm adding lights and would like to use those switches..
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I have just bought a 2004 F-250 SuperDuty 6.0 Diesel with 98k miles from a Ford dealer (no warantee)...
Just after I drove it home I noticed the Tow/Haul mode switch was not working - no dashboard light and no transmission downshifting.
The dealer took the truck back in and kept it for 2 days, it came back working, they claimed to have replaced the gear shift lever. 500 miles later and the Tow Haul has failed again.
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