Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Howling Sound From Back - No Unusual Vibration?
Jun 13, 2016
I have this howling sound in the back that is like heavy tread tires. But thats not what it is. Had to have some work done at a shop (no choice) and they noted on the receipt a "horrible noise".
This is any speed, accelerating and decelerating and coasting in neutral. I checked the fluid in the diff, it is filled to the hole, has good color, smells ok, and no metal on plug. The carrier bearing appears bulged out in one area but the shaft is tight. There is no unusual vibration. The shop did say that I need rotors in the rear.
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I have a 2004 5.4 power f350 that makes a fog horn pitched howling sound at idle. First instinct was a pulley. Started it with belt off and its obviously something else because it still made noise. Traced it down to a resonating sound from the intake. Specifically the hose from the IAC to the air cleaner.
From some googling, i decided to change the IAC. No real change. So I took off the resonator tube and thoroughly cleaned it, took off the throttle body and cleaned it, took off the top snout part of the intake and cleaned that put in a new air cleaner (the glue was separating on the old one) and reset the battery. Still makes noise at least 85 percent as loud as when i started. Am I missing something?
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2003 f250 crewcab 6.0 auto 4x4. I all of a sudden started feeling a vibration under the truck near the back when I accelerate and when I let off the gas no other time. No noises or clanking just vibration. I can wiggle the driveshaft inside the carrier bearing do you think that could be it or is it the rear end.
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I have a 2010 6.4L turbo diesel. Without a trailer on a mtn incline I have no issues. She will fly up the hill and she is quiet when I'm not pulling the 10,000 Lb trailer. When pulling the trailer, I have a loud howling noise and reduced performance. I had it at the Dealership and I had them check the engine/turbo and they found no problems? I asked if they tested under load and they said yes?? Someone suggested that the "Waste gate valve" was defective.
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2004 F250, I am getting this howling noise when applying the brakes. It sounds like it is from the left front and is more prevalent when applying the brakes down an incline (off ramp, etc) I pulled the wheels off and the pads were probably 50-60% worn. I bought some new pads and installed them and I still get the same noise. I didn't buy the cheap pads, nor the most expensive either. Either way, I can't figure it out. Would I need new rotors? I would think I would have some vibration if the rotors were warped. My other thought was the caliper, but when I replaced the pads it compressed fine and I lubed the slide rails. Not sure what to do at this point. The truck has 94,000 miles on it, FX4, Lariat, Crew Cab, and it has the 5.4L in it.
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Have a Howling coming from my single gas tank, truck was sputtering now and then. Yesterday it died and would not start. Towed it home and then it started. Think its the fuel pump, Is it tough to change.... 2005 F250 Super Duty109K Miles...
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My truck had devolped a whine/howl over the past coulple hundred miles. I thought it was a wheel bearing failing me. So yesterday I pulled it into the shop and jacked up the front end. Everthing checked out fine so I jacked up the rear end, started it up, put it in gear and to my surprise the noise was from the rear end.
I pulled the rear end apart and found the front pinion bearing had a defect in the race and the rollers were starting to pit out causing the noise and harshness when turning it. The truck has 130k, seal wasnt leaking and fluid looked/smelled normal. I think it was a legitimate defect not from abuse or lack of maintenance.
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I bought this Ex a little over a month ago and finally got around to replacing some stuff.
I have a slight vibration between 50 and 60 MPH. The vibration is the same weather I am accelerating, in Neutral, Coasting down (well, a little bit worse when coasting down), in 2WD, in 4WD, turning, going straight, hot or cold.
I have replaced the following:
Rear Driveshaft U-Joints
Tires and Rims
Upper and Lower Ball Joints
Wheel Bearings
Steering Stabilizer
Cleaned and Greased the Hubs
Greased everything greasable up front
I still have the exact same vibration as when I started. I can feel the vibration in the steering wheel as well as in the body of the vehicle. I am thinking that it may be in the steering linkage. If there is a loose joint then the wheels would be allowed to jiggle a little bit. I am at a loss. What else should I check?
Also, When doing the ball joints, I noticed that the tie rod ends were quite stiff. How stiff should these be? I can't move them by hand, but they will move a little bit when moving the free end of the tie rod.
I am taking it in for an alignment on Friday, and if I can't figure this vibration out, I might have them take a quick look into it. Would a stuck slide pin in the front brakes do this? Both sides on my truck are seized at the current moment.
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I have an 2011 F250 gas. I get what feel like a wheel vibration at 48 to 50 mph. It then go as you go up in speed. Comes back as you go down in speed at about the same range. Had it at the dealer for a month they but new tires and one new wheel on the truck. Same problem. Moved up to Ford. The sent me to another dealer. Ford now tells me that this is a problem that exist in the truck and there is nothing they can do.
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So I have a 2016 6.7L love it but it has this vibration at 65 mph that is worse when accelerating up a hill. It feels like an out of balance wheel but I have had them balanced 3 times. road forced 2 times. My dealer replaced the driveline also. I did a test with 400 lbs of concrete bags in the bed and it was vibration free. It almost is like the pinion angle is off.
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I recently checked and changed the one bad ujoint in the rear shaft but I still have a vibration once I hit 35mph but doesnt happen all the time and sometimes goes away while driving.
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Tires just balanced and rotated yesterday (second time just in case done wrong before). New ball joints and bars installed about 50k ago. Left front shock may be bad, but only slightly.
The issue: At about 40-55 mph, there is a rumble in the cab, unknown origination. Everything vibrates, although it "seems" like the left mirror is shaking more. The seat, floor, steering wheel, everything vibrates.
When I let off the pedal, vibration and noise go away, even within the "vibe zone". It only vibes when any throttle is applied, even just a tickle. I brought the engine up to the vibe zone RPM (1500-1800'ish) while in park and neutral, all seems fine.
I checked the U-Joints, they seem tight. I don't have access to a scanner, unless I want to pay the dealer.
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"2004 Ford F250 FX4 for sale. 5.4l v8, automatic transmission, 4x4, 152,000 miles. Truck runs and drives good but needs a rear drive shafts due to a vibration above 50mph."
Are their any known issues with these? I am guessing it is a u-joint or something, not the driveshaft.
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A vibration has just begun on my 00 f250 power stroke it's in the left front and happens when I hit a bump I changed out the wheel bearing assembly and I switched locking hubs with another truck all with no success don't know what else it could be it does go away if I lock in the hubs so idk
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I just noticed the clips in the pictures. Brand new F-250 crew cab.
There are two of them along the bottom edge of the back glass.
I can't find any reference to them in the owners manual and couldn't find anything by Googling it.
What these are and what they are for?
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A while ago both back doors on my 01 crew cab stopped working. The outside handles jiggle loose but the inside ones feel like normal. They both went at about the same time. If it's those little black boxes that mount by the handle on the door, how do I even get to it to change it if it's stuck shut? I can't reach my hand in there either to even try to see what's wrong with it. How to get it open?
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I was taking my boat out of the lake last night. Shifted T-box into 4Low and removed the boat. I then tied everything up and when to shift back into 2Hi and it wont. I have a 2001 F350 diesel w/ automatic and the auto locking hubs.Hubs are not engaged atm. I have never had this issue before and was wondering if a shift solinoid is stuck or something might be wrong with my Transfer case??
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I have a early 2003 SD with the 5.4 triton. It has a oil leak on the passenger side, the oil blows back and gets on the exhaust.
I have been under the truck with the engine running looking at where the head meets the block and at where the valve cover meets the head and can not see a leak.
Sitting there running at idle it does not drip a drop off the engine but the entire underside of the truck is coated in oil.
I did notice that the depression around one of the upper valve cover bolts was filled with oil, I cleaned out the oil, let the truck run and it stays dry.
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I have a 2011 f250 6.7 and I have a very bad vibration between 40-50 that seems to peak around 45-47. It also starts again at 80+ . the dealer told me they could not find a problem. Then another told me its normal. The tire shop around here told me the tires were shot so I bought new tires. No luck. It does not affect it if I change gears.
2011 f250 4x4 6.7 SWB. 140,000 miles
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I just put a dual exhaust kit on my truck (cherry bomb extreme, single in dual out), and I've started to notice that around 2100-2200 RPMs, there's a high pitched vibration in what seems like the tight hand corner of my regular cab. It almost sounds like the glass in the window is vibrating, or a loose bolt, or something like that. Very high pitched, very noticeable.
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2004 6.0L Excursion Limited 4x4.
I recently developed a "rumble" with vibration while braking. I describe it as a rumble because I associate it to a similar sound, cadence, and feeling as if you were slowing down on the rumble strips you find on the side of the highway.
It is mostly only noticeable at lower speeds. I know the sound and feeling of warped rotors, but this seems different. If it makes any difference, one issue I've been dealing with is that the front transfer case does not release when 4x4 is off and hubs are in AUTO.
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