I need to get the valves closed on one of the cylinders. So how do I turn it over slowly by hand? I couldn't find videos on youtube. It seems that it's just common knowledge on how to do that.
View 7 RepliesI have an 2001 F-250 5.4L.
It has the Triton engine and the problem with spark plugs blowing out. I have a kit with thick inserts that I'm going to install. I need to drill and tap the heads, but first I need to get the piston in the cylinder I'm working on to get close to the bottom and have all the valves shut. But I can't manually turn the engine over. I tried using a long ratchet with a socket that fits the nut on the crankshaft pully, but the nut just seems to tighten more, instead of turning the engine over.
And trying to turn the fan pulley doesn't do it either. Also, using the electric start for a split second at a time still seems to turn the engine over too quickly for me to get the piston where I need it. Do I need to pull all the spark plugs to do this? I really just wanted to work on one cylinder for now, instead of opening up a can of worms.
2004 F250. Just got about 6 inches of snow. I use this truck to plow my private road. A few other residences on the road rely on my plowing.
I usually use 4WD Low and gear 2 on automatic transmission to plow. Hub manually locked. But today, when I shifted to 2, and pressed on the gas pedal. The truck was not engaging to drive, as if it were in park or neutral. And when I tried to shift to park, there is grinding noise and wouldn't allow me. I had to turn off the engine to be able to shift to park.
When I manually freed the hub and used 2WD High and gear D, I was able to drive the truck without problem.
Later, I tried using 4WD Low and gear D, and was able to drive a little distance before the truck no longer drives, and pressing on the gas is as if the truck was in park or neutral.
Previous to this earlier, I was driving down the private road to see how much snow we got. Without the plow on, I might have gone up to 10 or 15 mph, and still using 4WD Low and gear 2, maybe for 1/2 mile. Could I have damaged something by driving too fast in that setting?
I noticed that my 4WD is only working now when I manually lock the hubs in (they have that options!), and the air blows out the defroster when I shift, so it looks like I have a vacuum leak. Where are the typical leak points on a 2006 F250? What's the best way to confirm a leak (other than just replacing all of the hose)?
View 2 RepliesI turn off the key and remove it. The engine shuts down but everything else stays on, the radio, heater fan, etc. I tried to search the forum but couldn't find anything about this problem. I'm guessing there is a stuck relay or a bad ignition switch.
2000 F450 7.3 PSD automatic 4X4
I own a 2004 F-250 Super Duty V10 truck. It's always ran and started great. I don't use it often so I make it a point to start and drive it around town twice a week. The other morning I went to start it and nothing. Engine will not turn over. Tried cranking with head lights on and they stay bright. It's an automatic and I tried going between park and neutral and still nothing. I can hear the little square relays in the fuse box clicking. Could the starter just have died? How are they to replace on these?
View 14 RepliesI picked up a set of harley davidson look-a-like headlights online for my 05. I go to install them and when I tighten them up it causes the turn signal bulbs to push in towards the fender on both. I put my hand back there and it feels like the bulb socket is being forced against the header panel assembly. Am I missing something?
View 2 RepliesI just got a 2000 F350 cc drw 7.3l.
I did search but have had no luck. My turn signals do not work, unless my foot is on the brake pedal my green arrow indicator wont even turn on. When they do my bulbs work but don't cycle so I know all the bulbs are good as I had my wife check all four corners when I got them to come on for a split second. I have tried replacing the MFS and the turn signal relay under the radio in the dash.... When I do turn on my blinkers I can hear the relay click once but that is it, no more.
I tried checking the wiring in the column and tilting the column to its extremes while trying to engage the turn signals. Also, if I unplug the brake light switch then I do not get an arrow on the IC to light up so I am guessing the power flows through that switch. I don't have a chilton manual yet and the owners manual was not in the truck. I did check fuse 23 ?
Coming back from a trip I got a e-brake light show up on the dash then noticed the signals stopped working and the heated seats no longer turn on. I scanned it with my AE and got a brake fluid sensor error come up but nothing about the signals .... is this a common problem or is there a connection between all this? 2003 F350 6.0L .....
View 2 RepliesMy F-350 has developed a new problem. It wont start. It wont even turn over. All Electricity is on, glow plugs glow, gauges work, lights work, but when you turn the key to the start position noting happens. Some of the indicators go dark.
I even tried a jump thinking my batteries no longer handle the load. Same results. I suppose I can remove the batteries and take them in for testing. In fact, I'll probably do that now.
2002 F-350 Superduty, 7.3 Ltr, Turbocharged. 260000+ miles.
I am having some problems with my 4WD, it's not working. When I turn the key on, I do not see the 4WD light. I have locked the hubs with no change. I noticed that my switch was not illuminated either, so I started there. I took the switch out, cleaned it up a bit and reinstalled it. Now it's illuminated but still no 4WD. I have swapped the two relays and still nothing. I have checked all the fuses under the dash and they were all good.
I don't believe the switch is the problem(they seem to be pretty simple and it doesn't look like there's much to go wrong. Is there a better way to test the switch other than just seeing the illumination light on? I plan on testing the transfer case shift motor tomorrow but I don't believe that is the problem since I'm not even getting the dash 4x4 light.
My other thought is replace the GEM but I was trying to rule out a few of the cheaper alternatives first.
I almost forgot to mention, approximately 7 months ago, my buddy and I were going coyote hunting. Being the genius he is, he didn't unload his rifle while we were in the truck and at some point, something happened and he touched off a round.
The shot was a well placed point blank shot and went right through a large group of wires on the passenger side trim panel under the glove box.
Initially, he bagged himself a trophy size Superduty but after some emergency surgery and a bit of soldering, everything has been fine.
I haven't used the 4WD after this incident but I can't say for certain this caused it because I haven't checked until now. Do you think this caused it? Is there a hidden/residual problem that I missed?
My dash cam is supposed to turn on and start recording when the truck is started and stop recording and turn off with the ignition. I have plugged into the accessory plug in the dash. It won't turn off and on. Is there another plug I should be using or do I need to wire it in?
View 13 Replies2011 F250 - AC works perfect sometimes. When it does not there is not clutch action or signal. Pressure is good, will work for many hours when working. Sometimes it will not turn on at all. I'm looking at installing a resistor in the evap temp sensor circuit.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2000 F250 with a V10, that won't start or turn over. I replaced the solenoid on the fender well, auto store check the starter 3 times and said it was good, new battery installed and same issue of not starting.
Here is a video of what it does when attempting to start : F250 starting issue - YouTube....
Where and what to look at?
So last week I installed a 6" lift and once we got it done I could barley turn right at all. So I decided to put a drop pitman arm on yesterday with a buddy, thinking that was the issue. But I still have the problem, and I very badly need to fix it and don't know what it is. Turning left is completely fine however. It feels like I'm trying to steer an 18 wheeler right now.
View 6 RepliesI am the first owner of a 2005 F250 SD with the V10 engine. After the engine is up to normal temperature, EVERY TIME I turn my steering wheel hard right or left it dies. It started doing this when it was less than a year old and had 10,000 miles on it. There is no Check Engine light, therefore, every time the Ford service people hook it to their reader there is no error code so, of course, they always tell me there is nothing they can do.
I use the truck to pull a fifth-wheel trailer but these days that usually means a yearly trip ten miles from the storage lot to our RV park site. The total vehicle mileage is 78,000. Less than 5000 of that has been pulling the trailer. It has never been used to haul heavy loads other than the fifth-wheel. I changed the fuel filter less than 2000 miles ago and nothing changed. I have done all of the routine maintenance myself so it has never been late for an oil change or any other routine service.
So I have a 2003 6.0L Powerstroke 1 ton. I just replaced the starter thinking the solenoid was the problem. But my luck it wasn't. I turn the key and the ding stops and it's quiet. Dash lights go off. I have the engine light and water in fuel light on. ABS is on I think aswell. I've run out of options.
View 1 RepliesJust got a new F450.
Is there any way to turn off the drivers side seat belt chime?
Passenger side does not chime if unbuckled.
Where I should start looking to solve this thing. Got in my truck to drive home at the end of the day today and noticed the radio was on. Started it up, seemed normal. Shortly after the thing started incessantly *BONG-BONG-BONG*-ing at me. Drove home, turned it off. Started pulling fuses, find the culprit, silence it.
It's no longer constantly on and it seems to have flattened out and is only doing it now when the key is in the off position, otherwise silent when running or in the normal on position. I know it's not this contact (the one in the tumbler above the release pin) that's making the problem happen, as mine is disconnected. It's definitely something in the ignition tumbler or similar that's making at least a couple of the circuits think the key is in when it shouldn't be.
I don't even have the factory service manual for this thing yet with all the electrical diagrams to figure it out. Truck is a 2001 F250 PSD Lariat CC, for what it's worth.
I recently replaced my abs sensor on my driver side front axle after I broke it trying to grease the hub bearing through the abs hole. Since replacement, start up routine is normal but the light stays on after I start driving. The mechanic out our shop put a code reader on it, said it couldn't read the bearing.
So I took everything back apart, cleaned the grease off the sensor with a paper towel and put everything back together and the light still comes back on. I'm not sure exactly what grease I used, same heavy duty grease I use on my tractor. What's my next step? Should I keep taking it apart and cleaning it? Will that fix it?
BTW the truck is a 2001 7.3 with 280k with some mild mods....
Not working at plug.
I see there is right turn/stop relay.
Does this relay ever go bad?
All other trailer lights work.