I can't afford to replace it now and want to quiet the squealing that occurs only when I turn right. A mechanic sprayed something on there about a month ago that caused the squealing to stop for about a week, but don't remember what it was. It's a 2002 S.D....
View 14 RepliesI need to do both lower ball joints. is there a write up or process to do it? do I have to remove the whole hub assembly/knuckle thing or can I do it with all that stuff in place?
View 4 RepliesOK, I've done a lot of things over the years on cars and trucks but never messed with ball joints on a F250SD 4x4 with 160k miles. Found out today when getting new tires that the ball joints are shot. I trust the shop but know I can do this my self. So if I'm going to do this what should I replace? Since I'll be doing this I want to know from those with more time under the truck than me what else should I be replacing at the same time. I have done the front wheel bearings and of course shocks. Just what am I in for and what other parts and brands should I be using? Bushing kits for stabilizer bar? Replace stabilizer bar with heavier after market?
View 12 RepliesI have replaced my ball joints and now putting everything back together. I am having trouble tightening the nut on the lower ball joint, the joint turns with the nut as soon as it starts to get tight.
View 2 RepliesMy 2004 f250 ball and u joint replacement job is at a bit of a stand still. Tore it down, brought the knuckle and axle shafts to an ex mechanic I know, because he has a 20 ton Harbor freight shop press. He mostly used a hammer, bashed out the old ball joints (I already had removed the u joints). U joint turned out fine.
I did notice the upper ball joint protruded a very slight bit on one side in the knuckle, meaning you could feel with your finger on the underside of the joint and on the one side it is not exactly flush with the interior of the knuckle. I would say it protrudes no more than a thirty second or so.
I brought it home, installed the boots on the moog joints, (the bottom was unusually difficult to put on), greased the joints and hung the knuckle on the axle tube, by a few turns on the lower joints nut. I then inserted the camber sleeve on the top stud, torqued the bottom to 49 fp then the top to 67 and finally the bottom to 150. End result, very stiff movement on the knuckle. No tie rod attached, and it takes to hands to move it from the "stopped" position,(turned all the way). I am sure it is stiffer than when I did the other side.
I tried loosening the nuts completely, same stiffness. I redid the torque sequence, no change. Tried hammering the ears around where the joints seat no improvement. The fellow who installed into the knuckle came and took a look. He agreed the knuckle was stiffer than you would hope, but, he suggested Putting it all together, as he believed they would loosen up before too long. I am not sure whether to try that, or remove the knuckle now, and redo with new joints. Pros and cons to either approach.
My question is : Does a knuckle become more sketchy by the time it is dealing with the pressing of a third set of ball joints? If I finish the install now, will a stiff knuckle action lead to other mechanical wear within a thousand miles or so, while I wait to see if they loosen up?
Took my truck in to get the wheel bearings replaced (driver's side was singing pretty loud). Decided to have the ball joints replaced at the same time since they were still original at 133,000. Got the truck back and the steering is just not right. At high speeds it acts like an old F100 wandering back and forth and the steering is pretty tight when you try to correct the wandering. I have taken it back to Ford and had the alignment checked twice.
They adjusted it slightly and "loosened" the stearing gear box. Truck is better at low speeds but still not right at highway speeds. Ford is telling me there is a "break-in" period for the ball-joints. I don't remember my friends F350 having a break-in period when he replaced his ball joints. Truck tracked fine before the work was done. Tie-rod ends also checked out. Truck is a 99 350 CC SRW 8ft bed.
I just replaced the ball joints on my 99 F250 SD 4x4. Driver side was a bit stiff to turn the knuckle. Passenger side is very hard to turn. The upper stud wanted to turn in the sleeve after torquing to spec. I had to lean on it to lock it into place. I have to check today to see if parts store is open to get a new set. The brand name is "Drive Works". I have installed ball joints in this vehicle previously, and in another Ford truck with the same style. I have the proper tools to do the job. I have to determine if both joints are tight or just the upper. I won't buy the same brand again.
View 4 RepliesThe front brakes on my '02 Super Duty squeal a little from time to time, but today have been squealing mildly while driving and get louder the further down I press the brake pedal until coming to a stop. All new brakes were installed less than one year ago.
View 11 RepliesOn my 03 F350 4x4 SC 5.4L auto, I have to replace the tie rod end off the pitman arm, figured as long as I have it in the air, I'd check the ball joints because the tires are starting to wear in the inside. Hoping it's just a camber adjustment but my luck, it'll be ball joints, SO, with that said. I'm looking at Motorcraft, moog and driveworks brands, which are better? Are there other brands that would be better than these 3? Talking to my local mechanic he wants to put in moog brand, so I guess I'll be doing it myself if they're bad.
Any tips or tricks about installation procedure?
I need to replace the ball joints on my truck, and it looks like a fairly formidable job. I replaced a brake rotor and a caliper the other day, so I'm not afraid to get in there - just not sure what I'm really getting myself into without a bit of guidance from you fine FTE folks.
What do I need to consider while I'm in there?
Is there a more recent write up with pictures, special tool list and/or part numbers?
Early 1999 needs ball joints on drivers side. Should I just do both sides?
Rear-most connection before pumpkin, need to replace the U-Joint. I got the four bolts out at the flange but the shaft won't drop. I beat on the connection a bit, not enough to hurt though. What am I missing? How the heck do I get this apart and drop the shaft to replace the U-Joint???
View 9 Replies99 F250 super duty 7.3
Had new ball joints installed and alignment. Steering does not return to center. Returns a little on a tight turn like in town but difficult when just changing lanes in town or not. Took it to another shop and they said the ball joints were too tight. right side pretty tight and left side really tight. Moog ball joints. First mechanic says they will get better with a few miles on them. Second mechanic says not so.
Also, have new shocks but get a bouncing in the front when at 45 mph and goes away at almost 50 mph.
After 240,000 miles I had to get the ball joints on my 02 f250 2 wheel drive replaced and the alignment set. I notice that the steering is really tight. In fact that it will not attempt to return to center on the highway. The guy that did the work has 30 years experience doing this sort of thing and he says I just need to drive it and it will loosen up. Interested in hearing from others that have replaced ball joints; Is this normal? How long do they take to loosen up?
View 7 RepliesI have 2009 F-450 6.4L Diesel with 41K miles and just started to have a noise that can be heard up in the CAB of the truck while driving or idling. It sounds like a dry ball bearing that would go bad in home computer AC power supply or CPU cooling fan. The sound starts when the engine is at full operating temperature and most noticeable and the loudest if you are standing in front of the engine at idle outside.
Checked all fluids and they are normal. Turning the steering wheel doesn't affect the sound either or turning off the AC. Check engine light has not come on. The only thing I have noticed is that clutch fan stays on a very long time after starting cold and takes about a mile or two before it disengages. The truck is only used to tow a 36' 5th wheel and sits the majority of the time.
I have a 2003 F250 Ext Cab 158" wheel base, 5.4, auto. 2wd
Last week I noticed a squeak squeak squeak while driving through town, sounded like the u-joint. I got home, jacked it up and pulled the rear shaft. Unfortunately I, bone-headedly, did not mark it when I pulled it. I took it into town and had a shop put in two new U-joints from autozone.
I got home and, forgetting to mark it, put the driveshaft in 180 degrees out. This caused the whole assembly to get out of balance and tear up the carrier bearing.
I replaced everything, pulled the complete shaft and disassembled it to put the new carrier on it...again, for some reason I didn't mark it. I knew I was supposed to.
It destroyed the carrier bearing again. So I limped it to my mechanic the next morning. He went through and replaced the front u-joint and carrier and called it good. I picked it up that afternoon and it was vibrating again.
I took it back and they kept it overnight and fixed it again. The problem they had was the driveshaft was coming back on the 'flex' and rubbing into the carrier instead of sliding back and forth, it was sticking.
They got that all fixed up and the wife picked up the truck while I was at work Friday. I called her at lunch and she said it was still squeaking like before I took it to the shop. I get home that evening and drive it and, sure enough, it's squeaking like it has a bad u-joint.
But the squeak didn't start right away, I had to drive it about 5 miles for it to start, and then I didn't hear it until I slowed down enough to get rid of the wind noise.
I took it back to the mechanic this morning. He called me around 4 and said they drove it about 25 miles around town and on the highway and couldn't duplicate the noise.
He said they went ahead and hit the grease zirks on all 3 u joints(even the ones they didn't install on the rear shaft) and they couldn't hear any squeaks. So I pick it up, drive through town a bit and start heading home. No squeaks.
I get about 20 miles out of town and slow down going over a bridge with the windows down, and there is the squeak again. Still sounds like a bad u-joint. But I didn't hear it until I drove it about 25 or 30 miles. What this noise is or what I need to be looking for?
I am replacing the ball joints on my 07 f250 4x4. got down to the removal of the shaft itself and it won't budge. What is the secret here. Have to go to work on monday, and the weather in Cleveland isn't going to be very good on Sunday.
View 10 Replies2005 Ford 350. I want to change the ball joints on the front axel and I cant remove the axle out of dif. to remove the ball joint housing. I have been prying and pulling and it just moves out a 1/4 inch or so .They tell me there is no ring to remove in dif before you can pull it out but why this trouble?
View 4 RepliesI have a '01 F250 with a frozen u-joint in the driver side front axle. My question is can I put it together without the axle and drive it?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 F350 CC long box 4x4, with a 6.2, 93,000 km on it. I periodically get a P0420. I clear it and sometimes it comes back in 10 or 20 KM and sometimes it comes back in a couple hundred km. Been doing this for about 800 KM.
Yesterday I got an exaust leak at the joint where the exaust manifold meets the pipe beside the engine. Checked close, bolts appear intact, leak is on the outboard side blowing towards the frame. Looks like a gasket or donut seal failed.
I am wondering if the catalytic converter was plugged or restrictive, would this cause the P0420 and could back pressure from a restricted catalyitic converter cause the gasket to blow?
I have a 99 f250 4x4 super duty. Just started getting a loud squealing noise off and on in the front end. Changed the ujoints and axle seals on both sides. They where all in bad shape. It still makes the noise off and on while in 2wd. If I lock the hubs in it doesn't. What it could be ?
View 14 Replies