Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: How To Get Inner Liner For Front Roof Console - Radio Wiring Same In Vehicle Side
Sep 13, 2014
1) How to get the inner liner for the front roof console (cubby and sunglass holder only no comp) out? I am planning on adding a couple of switches up there and need to clearance it in a couple of spots.
2) Is the wiring on the stock radio the same colors as the wiring harness on the vehicle side? Looking at changing out for a touchscreen (for rear cameras and bluetooth for my phone) and the one I am looking at needs to be wired in, and was looking at just cutting the plug off the radio and wiring to that instead of cutting into the harness on the truck side.
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I'm currently trying to swap out the standard AM/FM/CD for a DVD receiver with backup camera, and need to find out the proper wiring colors and pin position. I'd rather not send it to a stereo shop, as I've seen a lot of hack work by so called "audio installation experts", and besides.. I have a shop and can do the work myself.
I tried looking through AllData, but since my truck is too new, Ford doesn't release a lot of technical info for us in the aftermarket. Looking for a link to a Ford diagram?
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What is the factory radio wiring colors or know where I can find a diagram?
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I have the Ford plastic drop in bed liner, and being up in the salt belt in CT, i want to take it out just to see how things look under there. Dont want to be surprised later on if i keep waiting. How do you take this thing out? Just pull the sides out from under the bed rails? You dont have to take the plastic trim that goes on top of the bed sides off do you?
Also, i want to get rid of this thing soon. The best thing to replace the plastic liner? i dont want to just leave it metal, but my dad has had a spray in "rhino liner" in his 04 ranger since the day he bought it and it has held up great. so i am thinking something along that line. How much it would be to have a spray in liner installed?
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Long story short, ended up spilling a small cup of watered down paint in the bed. Of course some ran out the bottom as well but I'm most concerned with the bed. How to remove the paint? Since it was so diluted I figured it would wash right out at the car wash with high pressure.
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I found water under carpet next to door. Appears to be coming from area above center of vehicle. Only occurs during rain etc. Not from A/C or heater housing.
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I have a 2013 f250 6.2, I bought the truck brand new only have about 3000 miles on it and the other day I noticed that the drivers side front is lower then the passengers side front, the drivers side is about one inch lower, this doesn't seem right, also my drivers side front wheel seems to be pushed forward about one inch to the bumper that also doesn't seem right.
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I have a 2002 f250 7.3, an my radio is staying on when I turn the key off and open the drivers door. Windows are also still working. But if I open the passenger door it shuts off. What do I need to fix this I am tired of leaning way over and tryind to open that door every time I turn the truck off. I have been told to spray wd-40 into the door catch are i used a whole can an it still isn't working...
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Ive got a 2002 f250 Sd 4x4 with 93000. Im getting severe vibration from the front drivers side at highway speed. I thought it might be a warped rotor but i cant feel it in the brake pedal, when I put the brakes on. How can you tell when the hub bearing assembly is going bad? The truck doesnt pull to that side either. I can hear it, and feel it more when i'm going around highway corners. When im driving through town, I can hear a "clunk,clunk,clunk" noise coming from that side also.
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I need to mount a LED strobelight to the roof of a F250 2016. not really liking to drill a hole in the roof of a new truck I thought of running it thru the existing wiring from the brake light above the rear window. Looking for info if there's a hot wire in there that I could get power from & than could just run 1 wire to a switch. How to run the wiring ????
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I was checking out a rust spot in the roof and upon closer inspection also saw that the sealant in the channels is cracked on the edges. Can't tell if there is rust in there too or just dirt.
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Truck pulls to the left while braking, pretty bad. So, pulled the front right wheel off thinking the pins are stuck again as last year. Bottom pin was fine, top pin pretty gummed up but not froze so I cleaned it up good, used thin layer of the good stuff, put back together and test drove........same thing. Pulls left upon braking just as bad as before. Caliper pistons seemed fine, didn't take much to compress them either.
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The used 2004 F-350 I bought has developed a driver's side front end howl between 45 and 60 mph over the last 1000 miles. I tried all the standard stuff, rebalanced tires, rotated tires, put on a set of tires from a friend's F-350, replaced wheel bearings, replaced ball joints and nothing has worked.
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Today I started to install my satellite radio in the 250. I ran the antenna through the roof where the 3rd brake light is. The lights were not working so I thought I'd just replace them while it was off the truck. To my surprise the bulbs the guy had installed must have been too big because the wires, sockets and the housing were melted and not really usable. With that said. I can't seem to find a web site that would have an aftermarket setup that would fit the roof of a F250.
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2011 f250 6.2. put it in the shop to have the rotors turned, and front brakes while they were under there. Now it pulls to the right whenever you apply the brakes. Can smell brakes on the left front after a short drive time. Replaced that caliper and it's still doing the same thing. I'm stumped at this point.
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My truck has an intermittent shake with a grinding/binding kind of noise. It seems to happen at lower speeds, generally when slowing down and turning. When I apply the brakes or speed up it seems to stop the noise.
The rubber/plastic seal on the back of the wheel hub is loose on both drivers and passenger side but I don't think that is the problem. I'm wondering if it is the u-joints or something.
The brakes look shiny and i don't see any scratches on them so I don't think there is a rock or something in there. I have the wheel hubs in the auto setting, and it is a 4x4. The truck is a early 99 7.3L with a leveling kit and 230k miles.
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Truck is 2007 6.0L 4 door F-250 FX4
So this started after some High water encounters around my area. All freshwater. Went to the store and then i notice the truck pulling Left and got home and checked brake temps and the driver front and rear were over 400*F passenger side was 150* or less. No trailer no load in the bed. I decided to clean everything. Pads are worn but still have life.
Rotors showed some signs of where the pad is dragging Not bad though just a small area close to the top hat. I cleaned pads, carriage, and clips and reinstalled everything with some anti seize on the edges of the pads where the clips are and at the same spots on the carriage.
Thought it was ok but the after more water and a day or two sitting the same thing happened again. It is only the drivers side and it's both front and rear. I am stumped on this one. Two calipers going bad at once? I need to tow a boat on Monday So I have got to fix this.
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What this might be? (see pic)....
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I have a 99 F250 Super Duty 4x4. The u-bolt bracket on the front passenger side has rusted through and broken in two places. It has broken right at the hole for one of the u-bolts, which then broke the sway bar bracket off (so the sway bar is no longer attached on the passenger side). Also, the track bar bracket has broken off.
Is there a replacement bracket that can be purchased? Or does it need to be fabricated from scrap? The u-bolt bracket, sway bar bracket, and track bar bracket are all one whole piece. It is welded to the axle, so it would need to be cut off. Then the new bracket would need to be welded back on.
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I replaced both front bearings, calipers, brake pads, now I have a grinding noise on the left side front stops sometimes when you step on the brakes? 1999 F350 ...
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I've got a 02 SD v10 4x4 with Warn hubs and 97k. Bought it a couple months ago and I've noticed a vibration coming from the front driver side. Symptoms are that of a bad wheel bearing; vibration that increases with speed and not RPM, seems to lessen on left handed turns (weight transfers from driver side to passenger side) and gets worse on right turns. Also the truck seems very twitchy and hard to keep straight on the highway.
Snowed the other day so I locked in my warns (just in case) and I instantly noticed the noise and vibration almost went away entirely except for on the freeway around 70+ mph. Also noticed it seems less "Twitchy" on the freeway. Mind you the hubs are locked in but still in 2wd. After doing a little bit of reading some were saying this is a sign of bad needle bearings and not the entire hub.
I haven't jacked up the tire and checked typical movement in a bad wheel bearing. I know my way around vehicles and 4x4's pretty well...
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