Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: How To Get Master Cylinder Pushrod Out Of Hydroboost Unit
Apr 5, 2015
Im replacing hydroboost and master cylinder and I cannot for the life of me get the master cylinder pushrod (which must be reused) out of the hydroboost unit. There is a spring, retainer and pushrod that I cannot get to release.
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Im replacing hydroboost and master cylinder and I cannot for the life of me get the master cylinder pushrod (which must be reused) out of the hydroboost unit. There is a spring, retainer and pushrod that I cannot get to release. I know it has to be very simple, I just cannot see how it releases.
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I replaced my hydroboost unit about 10,000 miles ago. Today I noticed it was wet under the unit. Only this time, it's not red PS fluid, rather, it is brake fluid. So, I assume the master cylinder is leaking and winding up under the hydroboost unit via gravity. Or at least that's my theory.
Any way Rockauto lists 2 motorcraft master cylinders.
One is BRMC-26 for Hydroboost
The other is BRMC-27 for speed control.
I have obviously Hydroboost, but also have speed control.
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Driving home from work the truck suddenly would not shift, it felt like the clutch was not completely disengaging. The only way I could get it home was to start it in gear but the truck was obviously lunging, did that once and limped it home in 2nd down back roads.
Master was clearly leaking inside the truck but not a lot. Slave was dry as a bone, put all new hydraulics in it, it feels like I have more on the pedal but still the same problem. Thoughts? Do I have to pump it a thousand times to bleed it, it's one of those pre bled systems.
This happened to me once before a couple weeks ago and then it just magically went away after messing with it for a minute. I'm thinking maybe my fingers on the clutch are gone or throw out bearing quit but I've had no chatter, slipping or whining. I can shift through the gears with it off or running if my t case is in neutral.
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I'm in the process of replacing the clutch master cylinder in my 99 F250 7.3L. I've got the kit that includes all the components already pressurized in a complete assy. Anyway, I know that in order to remove the clutch pedal component, (the part that stick's thru the firewall) your supposed to be able to rotate it about 45deg and it should pull free from the piston attached to the clutch pedal. But, what happens when it will not come free? I've already got a new replacement kit and I can see where that stainless rod inserts into the plastic component, but I can't seem to get the one on my truck to release?
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I have replaced the cruise control cut off switch and post-recall pig tail twice in two years for fluid leaks. Whats the deal do they all leak?
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my 2000 f550 master cylinder reservoir plastic is cracked from vibration and it would be good to know if it can be replaced separately than having to purchase a new complete unit.
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A few years ago I (for him) replaced all 4 calipers, rotors, pads, etc....things were good. Just recently he replaced his Brake Booster and Master Cylinder (not sure what led to this), but long story short everything is back together and he doesn't have brakes.
My GUESS is that the system needs a good flush, new fluid, etc....
My problem is I'm unsure how to bleed the ABS system. A few google searched indicate I need a scan tool, but is there another way? Can I jump something.
So my question, how do I completely bleed the brake system on this truck?
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I have power steering fluid leaking out of the bottom of the Brake master cylinder out of a round hole. Every time I pushed brakes it leaks a good amount of power steering fluid out. Why it would do this and is there a screw missing out of the hole or what?
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2007 F350... I noticed I have a small power steering leak where the master cylinder bolts onto the hydroboost. Is there a o-ring or seal between the two? or do I have to replace the hydroboost? Been looking online for a schematic but can't seem to find one.
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I'm about to install a Undercover swing case and my locking cable mechanicism is in the way. I've taken everything off besides one bolt completely dead middle of the reel. I don't see how in the world you get to this bolt at all without destroying the reel. Any input?
I'd like to keep the bed lock cable in-tact so i can install it in the front.
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I have a 2005 F250 it has the stock head unit in it and i want to upgrade to an oem unit that has nav. Will the nav units from 2006 and newer fit and plug and play in my 05 ?
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I have leased my 2012 prius since April 2012 and about a year ago I began to notice the following noise originating from the master cylinder/ABS unit. The noise happens if I push the pedal firmly to the floor and occasionally during regular braking. The braking system seems to be working fine and regen braking is functional. I am wondering if this noise is a sign of an imminent failure.
Listen to audio recording....
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Having some coolant leaking from the EGR unit in my 2011 super duty.. Dealer says it's a 14 dollar part, but labor is a few hours to replace.. Not sure I see how that can be, but I wanted to ask on Here to see how long this should take..
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I have a 2010 F250 with a 5.4 gas. I wondered if a CAI would increase power and gas mileage. I have a friend who put one on his mustang and it worked a lot, especially with power.
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The trans temp guage on my '08 F-350. V-10 started acting erratically, and the wrench icon popped up on the display. i crawled under the truck to look for the sending unit and it's lead. i assume that i found the lead. it is encased in a corrugated sleeve, and appears to be a vaccuum type tube and boot connector? the boot still had a small round gray cap plugged into it. it appears that the cap was never glued (go figure) upon assembly. i have tried to reach up on top of the trans to find the sending unit to figure out the best angle of attack. i can barely touch it with the tip of my finger. going with mechanical guages is out of the question at the moment, so i'm wondering can it be driven any distance this way, AND any schmooze tricks developed to get at the sucker without dropping the cross member or exhaust????
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I just got a 2005 F-350. I would like to get the spare tire out without damaging the unit, but don't have the key. Is there a trick to getting it out? Would there be a way to get one from a dealer?
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I've got a 2003 F250, SD, 5.4L Triton that I've owned since new. It has 205,000 kms on it and has run flawlessly since owning it.
Yesterday I went to use the truck after it sitting for about 2 weeks, which isn't uncommon for this time of year as I'm in the landscaping business. It never sits long, though as I make a point of using all the trucks, periodically, just to "blow the stink off" as my Dad would say.
Anyway, when I fired it up the gauge was drop-dead below "E" so I go to fill it up and it takes in fuel and it won't take a drop more. I got under the truck and knocked on the tank in various spots and the tank seems almost plum full.
When I power the truck off and back on, all the gauges come to life and settle on their appropriate readings, except for the fuel gauge. It powers up to full and then drops to below "E" as though I had turned the truck off again.
My question is, am I reasonably safe to assume my sending unit has bitten the dust? I figured that since the gauge comes to life upon startup and then drops to "E" after the rest of the gauges initialize, the fuel gauge itself probably isn't the problem?
Is there a chance that as I drive it over the next few days, and the tank empties, maybe the "sloshing" of fuel might dislodge a stuck part?
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I need to replace the front passenger side wheel hub unit on my 2012 F250 4x4 120,000 mile reg cab truck. Its been a while but I did one on my 2000 F250 without any problems. There should be a few clips inside the hub that hold the looking hub and shaft together, right? Do I need any special tools for this job? What do the bolts need to be torqued to?
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Bought a new touchscreen head unit to put in my 06 lariat f250. I have all the controls on my steering wheel for heat and radio and I don't want to lose them with a new radio. This head unit does not have the 3.5mm jack for the axxes unit but has 3 wires labeled swc1 swc2 and swc ground. It supposedly has the converter built in. any views on using a headunit with these wires?
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I have no compression on #4 cylinder. Is there any way to check the cylinder for damage. So I can just replace that piston if it's good?
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