Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: How To Close A Broke Rear Slider
Feb 29, 2016
damn motor or something broke and of course its fully open. any tricks to disengage from powered sliding system? just need to get by for a bit til i can get to the dealer.
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one of my f350 super duties has had the right rear brake caliper and slider replaced 4 times in less than a year. it has just gone for the fourth time today. i called ford who, after a long phone call, said it could be the metering valve. i have looked everywhere for this valve.....no luck. so i called them back and he said it was part of the HCU. after a few minutes, he finally told me it was also called the ABS module.
my question is..........can i just replace this metering valve or do i have to replace the whole unit?
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Ok, so I have been noticing that the rear power window has been slow to close. So today I open it and now it wont close. When I press the button on the dash, I see the cable snap tight and hear the motor turn on so its not a fuse or motor. What I need to replace/fix. I have tried to blow the track out, tried wd40 tried having somebody hold the button while I try to assist it in closing, but none of that worked. It is now half way and wont go any further.
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I've got a 2006 F150 King Ranch with rear power slider that opens but won't close. After looking more closely, the bracket holding the 'close' cable is cracked and the cable end keeps pulling out. Can I just remove the sliding window/bracket and repair the holder with JB Weld or am I looking at replacing the entire back window to enjoy the convenience?
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I was having a problem with 4wd and regreased/ cleaned hubs and when I went to test operation both fronts would engage and worked good. After a while.of testing in and out of 4wd I heard a loud clunk and looked under, the front driveshaft blew apart at the weld.the u joints dont seem to be bad so im at a loss as why this snapped. It was not a clean break and the edges looked like it had to started to tear at some part in the past due to rust build upon the inside.of the shaft and torn edge. Im lookin at 2 feet of snow expected here Tuesday, so im trying to find some answers as well as a.new shaft.
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Is there some sort of fix for this?
You know, you get in the truck and lean on the center "arm rest" to get better situated. After a while the constant abuse brakes something and now the armrest is now floppy
FYI, this in an 04 crewcab F350
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My outside, driver side front door handle is busted. I was about to order a new one from Rock Auto, and came across this-
DORMAN Part # 80645 {#7C3Z3622405APPTM} Front Left; Paint To Match
DORMAN Part # 79306 {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Front Left; Black; Textured Finish; From 3/15/99
What is the difference here? Is something different on the early 99's?
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I was trying to replace the output sensor in my 5r110 when it broke off in the housing.
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The terminal (+) on the passenger side battery broke, and I see is a 1 piece cable and terminal all together.
Where to get that cable on how create a new one?
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Truck would have a miss that went away when warmed up past 180. Ficm voltage was low so I got a new one from diesel tech ron. After I installed it The truck would crank for maybe 5-6 turns then lock up and kick the starter out. The starter broke away from the motor from the kickback. I got a new starter in and set up my scangauge 2. In the few turns of the motor i can do before it kicks out, ficm is at 48.5 koeo and cranking, ipr at 14.4, and the icp shoots up to 1100. The ficm sync wont come on and I m stumped what to do next. Dont want to start throwing new sensors at it. 2004 f250 6.0 ...
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I have a 06 f360 PSD 6 speed. On a road trip and the clutch pedal is getting very close to the floor. No Slippage but the longer I leave the pedal pressed the worse it gets. Are there any good descriptions how the clutch in this truck works?? Slave cyl??
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I have a 2011 f250 sd that I removed the front grill and noticed 3 of the clips that hold the lower part of the grill in (bolts on the top) are broke. I went to the local Ford dealer for the clips and was told I have to buy the whole complete grille for it. The parts breakdown doesn't show the clips sold individually from the grille.
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This is my sway bar and drag link look like with the wheel turned all the way to the right. When I took these pictures, I had put the right tire on the curb too see what it was going too look like. However. Even with all wheels on level ground. It still is running very close. When the steering is straight, I have maybe 1" to 1.5" clearance between the 2. My truck does have a readylift 2.5" level kit on it. Running like this stock or leveled? Should I look around for longer sway bar links?
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06' CC F-250... Manual rear sliding glass is pretty rough to open and close, other than cleaning out that track, is there a good spot to put a drop of white lithium grease? Do you have to yank off the rear interior panel to clean it out all the way or would a shop vac with a sharp tip do the trick?
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99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
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I was trying to determine how to read the metal tag on my rear differential in an attempt to figure out what rear gear I have.
The plate reads: "3 V 414 F" on the top line and "731053L03" on the bottom line.
It's a 2004 Super Duty 4x4 Crew Cab XLT with the 5.4 gas.
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The rear differential is leaking on my 2000 f350, i am going to replace the gasket. When I take the cover off will all the gears pop out or are they held in? Also how much differential fluid does it take?
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So i have a weird smell from the rear end, and ive had it for like 2 months. when it first happened it was a sticking caliper so i replaced that, the passenger side. the passenger side wheel would get really hot but now there isnt heat on either side, it does smell stronger on the passenger side however. i wouldnt call this a burning smell, and to tell you the truth i have no clue what the smell is related to. maybe a burning rubber smell would be the closest i could put it at, if only i could transmit smells on the internet. im thinking it has something to do with the rear diff fluid, as when i checked it last it was really old nasty and gunky, it probably hasnt been changed in a long time before i got the truck. so i topped it off and decided i would drain the diff this weekend because i didnt have time last weekend.
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I have a 2008 F-450 with the King Ranch interior. Every time I hit a bump in the road, I hear a squeak in the back. It sounds like it coming from the pillar behind the door, but I can't seem to find anything that is loose or would cause this noise. I hear nothing when the window is open (from outside the cab), so I don't think it is a body mount or anything.
I've seen posts on this saying it is the back seat and I've completely taken mine out and checked every bolt and made sure it isn't rubbing on anything.
This is the 3rd crew cab truck i've had and my 2005 made the same sound, though not as frequently. My 99 also made the same sound, again not as frequent as this truck. This truck does it all the time when empty, but seems to do it a little less when loaded down, probably because the suspension is absorbing more of the bump. I can't believe this is isolated to my trucks and I am wondering to identify this noise.
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My rear end cover has been leaking and I don't have time to fix it right now. I was going to check the oil and maybe add some if needed but I cant find anywhere to ad oil or check it? Am I missing something? The add plug is the one Id like to find.
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When I am driving and hit a bump in the road, especially when the rear tires contact it square. I hear a clunk at the rear end. Sounds like suspension, loose tailgate...
My truck is a 2016 F250 Crew Cab Short Bed. It has a factory installed fifth wheel hitch. I have looked at the obvious, spare tire, loose bolts... I removed the tailgate and it still makes the sound. I removed the insert in the receiver, still makes the sound. No goose neck ball in fifth wheel hitch. Checked bed bolts. Cant find it. Drives me crazy.
I also have a 2008, exact same truck, 200,000 miles, no clunking. I have driven in my friends 2014 F350 Crew Cab Long Bed, it clunks. Dealer pulled a new truck off the lot today, took a drive, it clunks. Dealer can't find it and confirms there is a clunk.
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