Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Hot No Start Then Shut Off After Cold Start
Sep 11, 2015
I normally just troll the existing threads and find what I need, but I am stumped. Just had the HPOP replaced and ran fine for 2 months. Then I started getting a hot no start. So it sat for a couple of days. Then I went to pull it in the shop, it started, I backed up 10 ft and it shut off. I started it back up and it died. I am going to hook it up and figure out my AE software tonight. So question, can an IPR valve get clogged after the fact? Or could it be a bad HPOP?
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Truck: 1999 Ford Truck F 350 4WD Super Duty V8-7.3L DSL Turbo VIN F
Problem: Especially when it is cold outside . . . The truck takes forever to start and while doing so a ton of white/grey smoke comes out of the exhaust.
My starting schema: Turn the key on have the gas pedal pushed to the floor until the "wait to start" light goes out. Then, I turn the key off and back on while still pressing the gas pedal all the way down. When the "wait to start" light goes out again I remove my foot from the pedal and try to start it. I never leave it cranking for more than 5-7 seconds. If, after trying this process several times I will not push the pedal in at all. Also, sometimes I will leave the pedal pushed in while I am cranking it over.
The truck used to start after a couple of tries but lately it won't start at all, even after 20 tries. Sometimes it will spin up for a second as if the engine gets going but then just doesn't continue running. When it is warm out it will usually start after a few tries but doesn't seem normal to me. After I first bought the truck(used) it would start up within half a second after turning the key.This all started after I had to fix an o-ring that was damaged on the top/back of the motor that was dumping all my oil out of the top/back of the motor.
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My 2006 6.0 shut off immediatEly after starting this morning and never started back up. I have a scan Guage 2 hooked up. I'm showing no ficm voltage and no sync even when cranking. I physically checked the ficm voltage with a dvm at the screw to the far right on the ficm, and I have 48 volts. Why do I have 48 volts at the ficm, but 0 volts showing on my scan guage? And no sync when cranking?
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I have a 2002 F250 super duty 5.4 XLT 4x4. I got home turned it off went to move it and it cranks but won't start. I sprayed brake cleaner in the intake and it started for a few seconds, back fired then shut off. Where is the fuel pump relay? Or how can I power the pump to test it? All the fuses are good, I swapped the relays under the hood with each other and still nothing. The fuel pump shut off switch is not tripped. Is their a way to test it?
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I recently pulled the stock tp38 off. The reason for rebuilding is the turbo started making an awful screeching on start up and shutdown when the compressor is at a low rpm and starts to wobble.
The shaft has 1/2 in and out play with 1/8 in every direction. the compressor has some wear marks but no chips, the turbine has some good chunks missing. from what i can see there are no marks on the housings.
What should i put in it as far as new compressor and turbine/shaft. nothing that requires machining. I am not looking to run more boost or anything, just looking to reduce spool up time if possible. Any specific rebuild kit? what turbine and compressor should I go with?
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I'm having a problem with starting the V10 in my 99 E350 cube van. It refuses to start when cold unless I stick my finger in the idle air control valve and force it shut, or use starting fluid, or a combination of both. Once I do get it started, it will die if I touch the throttle, but once warmed up, it runs fine. I have replaced the IAC, the cylinder head temperature sensor, the fuel filter and fuel pump, and cleaned the MAF. My code reader shows no codes, and like I say once warmed up it will run fine and restart no problem.
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Ok truck shut down wouldn't start back. Put fuel filter o. Frame cranks but won't start. Was told has high pressure oil leak in engine?
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While driving up hill at 60mph the truck lost power. Rpm jumped up as to change gears as it hit 55mph. Still losing power until it shut off. I tried to restart and just got a click from the solenoid. No engine codes whatsoever. Battery had 12.1 volts but when turning the key to start in getting 8 volts. Had it towed home. Today I swapped batteries with my other truck and same click noise from solenoid. All lights, radio, ect still work. Where should I start? Alternator, fuses...?? 2008 f250 5.4 ...
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I have a 2002 f250 superduty 5.4 4x4 around 317xxx original motor and trans. When it's cold out it won't start at all I have to use starting fluid but once started it will start right back up. Did the plugs fuel filter cleaned the intake and sensors still have a problem plenty of fuel pressure plenty of cranking amps brand new battery and Alternator. It just cranks and cranks when it's warm out fires right up. Runs smooth no lack of power or misfire no codes are being thrown also.
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Here's what's happening:
I can have it on hot and be driving along, then it will start blowing cold air. I can move the temperature switch to cold then back to hot, and it'll start blowing hot air again.
Need to know if that would be temp or the motor? I don't want to just change parts randomly.
03 F250
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I have a 01 f350 7.3 turbo dsl. will not start cold. engine turns over fine. plug into block heater over nite , will start! outside temp does not make difference. I have replaced glow plugs, glow plug relay, wiring harness under valve covers. Where to go from here?
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So I'll be driving down the road and the gauges will randomly start jumping around then the truck will just shut off, this just started a couple days ago, it seems to be gaining in frequency, when i try and restart the engine all my warning lights flash on and nothing happens, try again and it starts back up, now the last time it happened all of the above happened but it was followed by a fast clicking noise from under the steering column, it has to be a electrical issue as i have full tanks and motor is in tip top shape. Also no codes pop up with my code reader.
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I'm looking to buy a 08 f250. It has 70k miles on it. The guy is running a mini max tuner on it. I did notice on a cold start as soon as he hit the acceleration it had alot of black smoke. Is this normal? And is there anything I should b aware of when looking this truck over.
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My 2015 f350 6.2 truck started making this whine noise..... Sounds like a bearing..... Stops at 40 seconds.. [URL] .....
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i have a f350 superduty with a 7.3 turbo diesel and I pretty much hafta keep it plugged in to get it to start, i have installed all new glow plugs and both relays have been changed and the problem is still there, only other option i have not tried yet was changing the pcm controller but unsure if that is the problem ..
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05 6.0 72,XXX miles. Will not start when cold (below 40ish) outside and engine is cold. Throws a P1378 code and no others (per the BullyDog Gauge Tuner that came with the truck). Checked the FICM with the voltmeter test on a morning it wouldn't start. Never dropped below 48 volts through the whole test. I can clear the code, try and start the truck and it comes back as soon as I try to crank it again. Warm days=no problems at all.
Oh yeah...I did go through the harness from the FICM to the injectors a while back and found a couple spots that were rubbing on various bolts. Peeled the insulation back and taped up the bad spots to keep from grounding something out so I don't think it's a harness issue. Also found a ground wire off on the back side of the FICM and reconnected that on the nearest valve cover bolt.
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I picked up my 05 F350 dually 5 speed w/ the 6.0 powerstroke motor in august... It only had 38k on it when I bought it... its got 43K miles on it now...
Ran great in the warm weather but ever since it got cold out its been a struggle. It was running rough on the way home and kept stalling while i was driving it.. (acting like it was starving for fuel).
I went and replaced both fuel filters and started the truck... let it warm up and it stalled while sitting in my drive way and haven't been able to start it since...
I have fuel additive in it but since I don't drive it all the time (maybe 3 times a week for 30 miles) could it be possible that the fuel is gelling?
I was going to check the EGR valve tonight...
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When I cold start my 99 F250 7.3L PowerStroke extended cab long bed manual, I get diesel smell in & out of the cab. What is causing it?
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2002 7.3 running rough.
This is my symptoms : On cold start ups engine runs rough. Idling it knocks worse than normal on the road she runs really rough. If I get on here she smooths out ( but still runs rough a bit) but normal driving at between 1200 -2000 rpm she runs so rough it shakes the whole truck. It will do this until she gets up to operating temp & then it goes away. The more she warms up the better she runs.
Once up to temp she will run perfectly. The colder it is outside the worse it is & the longer it takes for it to go away. I have replaced the valve cover gaskers and new harnesses, new glow plugs. Still same problems. I have AE and one time it gave me a #2 cylinder code. have not been able to repete this code. What to check next.
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I changed the IAC valve 2 months ago because my truck kept stalling when idling down on a cold start and that fixed the problem. A few days days ago when starting it started revving to 2 - 3 K and won't IDLE down now? I changed the IAC again and that didn't work. What else should I be looking at to stop it from revving so high?
2001 F250 5.4 111,000 miles super duty.
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2011 SD 6.7 with factory remote start will start normally when the temperatures are above 20F or the vehicle is warmed up. If the temperature is near or below O F and the vehicle is cold soaked for 12 hours the remote start fails to work. Push the lock button and the lights flash, push remote start twice and the lights flash once and nothing happens. Subsequently can manually start vehicle with key without any delay or problems. Once vehicle is warmed up can remote start normally. Only recently have the temps been low enough in the area to experience this problem which has repeated 3 times. Unable to find any troubleshooting in the service manual for this.
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