Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Horrible Whine When Turning Wheels Or Hitting The Brakes
Oct 1, 2014
1997 Super Duty 7.5 has a horrible "whine" when turning the wheels or hitting the brakes. Weird thing is, when I have the front end jacked up it goes almost completely away when turning the wheels. It is still there, and just as loud when I hit my brakes, but the brakes never were as loud as it was when I turned the wheels. I am guessing it is something to do with the steering gear or tie rod ends or something that I have absolutely 0 experience with....
More info on the problem: PS pump was always a bit noisy, but after the truck sat for a while (around a year, drove it every couple months for a few miles) it was ridiculous, so i replaced the pump, cycled all the old ATF out, made sure I had good pressure coming all the way back to the pump, several times. Never ran it dry.
The steering wheel (with wheels on the ground) kicks back on me and has a LOT of play in it before the PS pump kicks in and starts screaming. Jack the front end up, steering is nice and tight, no play, noise is there a BIT (with the hood up and cap off the PS pump) I would imagine under normal driving conditions i probably wouldn't even hear it much, if at all.
With my very limited mechanic knowledge I would assume that something is making it very hard for my wheels to turn, which is straining my PS pump, but what!?!?!?!?
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Got a POP noise when I hit the brakes. I have to apply some pressure for it to make the sound. Does it once when going forward. Doesn't do it again until I drive a few minutes, then it does it again.
If I go back and forth between reverse and drive, it does it every time as I hit the brakes, but only once until reversing direction again.
Takes some moderate pedal pressure to make the noise. If I turn the steering wheel to either side, it doesn't make the noise.
I've gone over the brakes, nothing there is wrong, and besides it wouldn't go away when I turn the wheel. Nothing is loose in terms of tie-rod ends, wheel bearings, nothing.
It's not bad enough yet to be able to see movement in the ball joints when the wheels are off the ground. Is this the ball joints?
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My 02 F250 has me baffled. For a while the truck would pull to the right when hitting the brakes and occasionally the brake would get hot. To try and remedy this I put a new caliper and hose on the right front corner a new hose on the left front side. The truck still pulled right and the pedal got spongy even after bleeding the brakes 3 times. I got to checking the rest of the brakes and found a seized slide pin on the left rear. Got that fixed and still pulling right with a soft pedal. I've checked all of the sliders and none are seized. I am lost and I cant stand the soft pedal!
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I am a recent new owner of an 06 f350 Powerstroke. Steering Box developed a leak so I decided to replace the box and go ahead and do the pump and hoses while at it. Pump would make some noise so i figured I'd just do it all and be done with it or so I thought. The job was a pain, much harder than the pump and boxes i've done on the older 7.3 powerstroke.
Anyways, used all OEM components (pump was a rebuilt rotorcraft, can't buy new anymore) and everything seemed great for about a day. I tried to bleed the air out per standard practice of turning the wheels with the truck off the ground. At startup and during the first day it had almost no noise at all and the steering felt much easier than the old pump.
Then the pump started to develop the standard annoying ford power steering whine that I hear all the time. Drove it over the weekend on a 160 mile trip and the noise just kept getting worse. As of tonight I can't turn the wheel if the truck is stopped even with my foot off the brakes.
I used synthetic ATF for fluid and there is absolutely no foam or aeration in the reservoir. Good news is I don't have any leaks but the bad is I now don't have power steering. It does make a much louder whine or squeak when I hit a large bump turning, I guess that's just the sound of the pump being stressed more. I am guessing the pump just crapped out but before I do it all over again.
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I have had the truck just under a year. It has 104k on it i only drive it on weekends. Last weekend going to Home Depot about 15 miles got out and could smell brakes burning. Felt the wheels and the right rear was very hot. Got back home no smell but still hot not as hot as earlier. Pulled the wheel off it looks as if the pads and calipers are fairly new paint is still on them caliper is a TRW. The pads were stuck in the carrier even the stainless clip ends look rusted.
Cleaned it all up both sides lubed the pad carrier with pin lube. Pushed the calipers back in some both sides went in easy. The right rotor has definitley been hot. Put it all back together and went for a test drive. Came back no problems checked the temperature with a laser type heat thermometer all wheels were around 140 f. Went out yesterday morning stopped and could smell the brakes again. Drove it back home and the right rear was 300 f. others 150 to 160 f.
Jacked it up put it in neutral and the you can spin the wheels by hand. Started the truck had the wife get in put it in drive wheels turning applied the brakes they stopped let go they turn freely again tried the parking brake it works fine also. So do I buy new calipers and brakes or maybe is the wheel bearing going bad causing the brakes to heat up?ied.
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I have a 2011 F350, with a 4 inch Rancho Suspension lift. Ever since the lift kit was installed, more commonly when turning to the left than right, the anti lock brakes come on and the traction control light comes on/flashes. without even stepping on brake pedal.
It seems to happen when the wheel is at about 80% of max turning, about 15mph. Both wheel hubs and sensors have been replaced. road tested with Ford tech , he watched the speed sensor input while hooked to the computer and all sensor are reading correctly.
Today I went in a constant circle and can make it do it non stop, and when you try to press the brake pedal while the anti-lock (grinding/chattering) noise is happening, it only gets louder.
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Starting about a year ago, "sometimes" when I step on the brakes and am turning the steering wheel, I loose the power steering. I took it to Ford and they said that this is a a known issue but they didn't say what it would take to fix it. Because this problem is intermittent it is very hard to get this fixed unless the mechanic can experience and verify the problem for himself...
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2015, F250 6.2L, 16,000km , so recently my transmission has seemingly lost its mind. When I start it up cold and drive it down my street I am greeted with a horrible slam of a 2nd to 3rd gear shift. Then while towing my TT this weekend a couple of times it held 2nd waaaay longer than it ever has before. Having issues with Torqueshift?
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As the title states I just finished putting pads and rotors on the front of my 04' f250. I have had a terrible shutter almost a bouncing effect while braking over the last week or so, finally got around to doing the work and still no satisfaction! My question is where to go next? Wheel bearings and tires are good, I do get a pretty good wobble/vibration in the pedal while braking. Should I be looking at a brake booster or master cylinder? Or is it possible it's a caliper? Truck goes down the road fine until and brake is applied.
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I noticed today my ranch hand bumped is hitting my fenders, when I originally installed it there was about a 1/2" gap.
All the bolts are tight, however it appears the mount that's attached to the frame is flexing and becoming weak as I can grab the bumper and rock it when it used to be rock solid.
Is there anything I can buy that will reinforce the bumper mounts that are connected to the frame to support this bumper???
Right now it's bolted up with 4 bolts on each side and no additional hardware.
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My truck has been shaking/jiggling like crazy after hitting a quick succession of bumps and potholes and won't stop until I bring my truck to a complete stop. Happened 4 or 5 times in my old '87 F250 over a period of months, happened 4 times starting yesterday with my '02. Heard it may be the steering damper shock.
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I purchased the truck from a used car lot about 3 months ago and after driving for a few thousand miles I am feeling a slight wobble after hitting a bump in the road. Here is my truck set up:
- 2011 Ford Lariat F250 4X4 FX4 6.7 ltr
- 67400 miles
- Tires stock and great tread
- Rancho steering stabilizer kit
- Rancho Shocks
- Rear air bags
It does appear one of the rancho stabilizer dampers is leaking slightly. Why would the previous owner install a rancho stabilizer kit? Is it because of the rear air bags?
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The truck is a 2012 f250 6.2 flex fuel from alberta canada. This isn't the first tranny form out there that I've heard do this. Tranny seems fine shifts all right just a whine while accelerating.
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My 2003 just doesn't drive right anymore. I bought some new tires and all of a sudden it crabs when on the highway 70-80 mph. I have new ball joints. Hubs, and a few other front end parts to rectify the issue with no luck. Alignment shops haven't been any favor either. Tire shop replaced the tires with sweet michelins that worked minimally. So I went to measure the wheelbase, center to center and sure enough there is a 1-1/2" difference between the left and right side. I have had a few minor bumper dings, one at appx 20 mph, but nothing earth shattering. Can something be loose in the rear end? It does feel like the rear wants to swing around and be in front.
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My tuck has been making a whining noise very similar to this and only when it's below freezing out. At 5 degrees it's even louder. Just noticed it the other day. Sounds like power steering whine. I have the 6.2 super duty.
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Brand new to diesels with an 02 F250, 7.3 auto, 149k, 4R100. I have been hearing a whine (not the turbo...) for the last few days and after searching the web I'm freaked out about transmission issues. The whine is mostly present in gear while accelerating, I can slightly hear it in park/neutral as well. The sound is a little higher pitched than a power steering pump, pitch rises with acceleration but doesn't FALL as fast as the RPM with shifts, it lags for just a second then drops and starts the climb again with the next gear (i feel like this is indicative of something?). Runs fine and drives like what I would think is normal, only leak i see looks to be from valve covers making its way to everything. Transmission fluid looks great on the dipstick.
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So it was -10 last night didn't have my truck plugged in fired it up this morning took a few cranks but started heard a wine under the hood figured it was cold let it warm up for a half hour went to a buddy's for a party left a few hours later driving home truck was up to temp running fine then I thought I heard a wine again turned my music off rolled my windows down and it sounded like a Cummings lopping shaking like crazy lost power couldn't make it up a hill and bogged out and died look under it and has some oil on the axle tube called for a tow truck ten time no answers so I tried to fire up again and stared and ran fine made it home no problems. My question is is it a fuel issue I use anti gel every fill up but is it still possible maybe water? Or could it be my hpop it hasn't thrown any codes or lights all pressures and gauges read fine. Also my rear main leaks along with oil pan was it just some water running through or should I be worried...
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Got my new truck last week and the steering is awful. Loose as a goose. Every bump that you hit jerks the steering wheel around. I changed the tires from the factory 80psi down to 60 for the front and 65 for the rear, didn't work much. On some big bumps it acts like I am losing control. It reminds me of the death wobble on my old 05 F250 which was 4wd. I thought that the 2wd independent suspension would be smoother.
It's got a sway bar up front can I add a steering stabilizer? If so who makes one? Everything else about the truck is great. The new 6.7 is quiet as a mouse and powerful. So far fuel economy is the same as my ecoboost. Haven't got to tow with it yet.
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Switch out a 5.4 in a F-250 4X4 4 my neighbor now I have a noise like fan blades hitting coming from the torque converter it goes and comes and hits good in reverse...
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I am trying to get an extra set of wheels for my truck before we move back to Alaska to mount my studs on next winter. I have found a few used sets but then realized I have the tire pressure sensors on my truck. If I pick up a set, do I have to get ones with the sensors? Can sensors be added to the tire shop? I just really have no intel on this subject!
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I have the 20 inch chrome wheels on my 2016 Lariat. After this winter there is some buildup if some sort in the wheels that will not come off when I hand wash the truck. From what I understand, these are some sort of plastic covering and not true chrome. So my question is can use a really abrasive material or steel wool to remove heavy grime. I have a feeling it is from salt in the roads. I don't want to ruin my wheels.
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