Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Hesitation / No Power When Engine Is Lugging
Jun 2, 2014
The problem is, say I'm going around a 90-degree turn and I'm going 10 miles an hour and the engine stays in 2nd gear it does not want to pick up speed until it gets into the power band. Even if I am in overdrive and want to pick up speed it will kind of hesitate until it down shifts to 3rd then it will take off . Same thing when I am in second going to slow trying to take off, if I floor it it will down shift to first and take off like a rocket.
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Here is this wonderful 5.4 's issue now, sometimes it will idle rough, sometimes it wont. sometimes it feels like it wants to stall, other times not. if im driving about 30mph up a hill around 1700 rpm, the engine feels like a bucking horse, it will kinda want to produce the power, but cant seem to find it till the trans drops to a lower gear. With this engine power loss is unacceptable because it came out of the factory with no power, i cant afford to loose more.
there is no check engine light. its been doing this on and off for a week. i dont drive it much, may 15 miles a day. i thought maybe it was bad gas , i had it sitting for a month, but since then ran almost 2 tanks of gas through it. Seems to act the worst when driving it, then letting it idle for 5 mins, then drive it again, that's when its very noticeable. no smoke from exhaust, no mixing of oil and anti freeze, plugs are a year old, filter is new.
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1999 F250 super duty w/ 5.4... My truck seems have issues keeping speed on the interstate like its not wanting to switch gears on time. Its auto by the way. Gotta little hesitation in the idle exhaust due that I have several leaks in my exhaust. Could that be the problem?
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F250 5.4L have had a new fuel pump installed and new spark plugs (one blew out). When accelerating, or at a stop i get a kinda hesitation. It did it when I first bought the truck but put correct size tires on it and it went away. What it may be? I don't have a check engine light or anything and at cruise speed no problem--it's just when a slight load is put on the engine?
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2010 f250 cc 5.4 145000 miles. I bought it last fall have not drove it a lot. When using the cruise control and a load is added grade or hill in the roadway. It jerks hesitates or miss then cleans up and runs fine. When using the accelerator it does not do this. No codes.... Thinking about changing the plugs.
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I bought my 2011 F250 FX4 about 2 months ago. A little about the truck: 6.2 liter gas. XL FX4. Manual 4x4. 6 speed auto. Supercab. Long bed. 42,000 miles. (1,000 of them mine.)
Until yesterday, the truck has performed absolutely flawlessly under all conditions. Then, randomly, I had what felt like a "missed shift" as I was leaving my dog's veteranarian yesterday. I pulled out onto the highway and as the truck attempted to shift into second gear, it didn't "catch" second. The gas just revved up and I had to take my foot off the gas pedal and put it back down to get second gear to engage. Most of my driving is stop and go around town and this has only happened once in probably well over a thousand stop and go situations. Should I be worried or was it just a fluke?
Also, FWIW, I did plenty of stop and go driving today without a single problem.
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I have a 03 F250 5.4 4x4 auto, last year I had a problem with the truck shutting off randomly. So after doing all the dumb stuff and research I ended up concluding that the FP relay was acting up and my understanding is that, it is located in the fuse block. So not wanting to replace it I wired up my own relay next to the safety switch in the passenger side kick panel and it has been fine ever since. I did put a new pump in it (Cali emissions) Now to present day-
Over the past month my truck would have a slight hesitation problem when accelerating on the highway/up grade. The issue was it would go away for a while when you would shut the truck off and be good for a while. Well then it started happening all the time.
I knew I was do for a tune up (215,000) so I did all the plugs, COP's, fuel filter and a PM. It got a lot better but was still there at the top end. So after doing a lot of research I found a lot of people having the same issues, so for testing purposes I cut the CAT out and installed a section of flex pipe. (Iwill be installing the cat back in)
So last night I take it out and its even worse...I went don to my buddy's place and hooked up a Versus and got no codes at all, no misfires on the counter..absolutely nothing. So I did what I should have done in the beginning and duct taped a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield and took off.
At idle I have 30 or so PSI, and when it was fine it would stay around that, when it started acting up it would drop to 5-2psi under load and go back to 30 or so PSI at idle. The other thing is now I only have 1/4 tank of gas.
What I am concluding is that the pump is getting hot and weak, because when I had a full fuel tank it was better and now I have less fuel to cool the pump and it is happening faster. Should I just throw another new pump in it? Or go after a voltage problem to the pump?
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I have a 1999 Ford F350 5.4L 4x4. I had a check engine code on my truck a couple of months ago. The truck was running fine then. The light went away and I forgot about the issue. In the last week the truck began to run like crap; hesitation during hwy speeds. The truck is running with hesitation in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear. In low gears the truck seems to run just fine. I have changed the EGR valve as well as the fuel filter. Check engine light is not on but the problem has not gotten any better.
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I bought the 2005 F250 6.0 Turbo Diesel with 67,000 miles on it last March. It has given me gave me absolutely no problems until now. In the last 2 weeks I have had it plugged in when it was below 32 degrees outside. Otherwise, I just remote started it every morning and let it run for 20 minutes before I left. In the last 2 weeks, I have noticed the same problem whether it is morning, afternoon, or evening and it happens at different times. I will be at a standstill at a stop light, stop sign, or parked in my driveway when this occurs. Sometimes, and like I said, "sometimes", it will hesitate when I give it throttle. It will quickly respond after maybe a second, but the hesitation is still there. It only does this on occasion!
I work for a Lucas Oil distributor, so in the winter I ran the "extreme diesel conditioner" through it with a tank of diesel about every other week. I also used the fuel-injector cleaner at every fill up. On "ONE" occasion, and like I said, "ONE" occasion, when it hesitated at a stoplight, I looked in the rear view mirror, and noticed a short burst of white smoke, and then it took off. It has not done that since. I took the EGR off and cleaned it and it seemed okay until 2 days later, then the same hesitation came back, but like I said, at times!
I replaced the air filter and since then I have done nothing. I am now being told to check the coolant level in the resevoir. When I un-screwed the cap the cap, there was pressure in there and the fluid was about 1/4 inch low from the line. I was also told to check the filter on top of the block, but I have not gotten that far. Ford says it is the EGR cooler system! I have "NO" check engine lights!
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Purchased my first used Super Duty 2011 F250 6.2. Love the truck. This is my 3rd ford truck. I get home from work, so the truck is warm. Sit for 20 min, then leave to take the kids to their games. After turning onto the street then accelerating power is lost for 1-2 seconds, then the truck continues to accelerate. If I let off the pedal, then the truck will slow down, if I hold the pedal position of push down it does nothing. This is going to drive me crazy. Not sure if this is a TCM reprogram issue? It only does this on the initial take off. I want to start playing with my new truck, but want to fix this bug first.
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What are my options for increasing the engine power in my truck? I'd like to see somewhere between 350-450 hp on the rear wheels. Unlike you guys in USA I can't just drop my truck of at any garage and pay them to do this for me as i live in northern Norway and there ar as good as none who work or knows much about american trucks here. I also wonder what power levels can the original transmission handle whiteout reinforcement?
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I purchased a 2000 F250 7.3 4x4 (auto transmission) about 8 months ago. I've noticed recently that when I accelerate there is a slight hesitation like there is slack in the drive line. This does not happen when the truck is moving and I accelerate. There is not audible clunk and the hesitation is not in the motor.
I checked the u-joints and they all feel tight. There is a little slack in transfer case that allows me to turn the drive line slightly back and forth. Is this normal? Should I be planning on a transmission or transfer case rebuild soon?
Update: I was researching the leaf spring isolator pads (mine are warn out or missing) and it sounds like these can cause something similar to what I am experiencing. I am planning on pulling a 28' travel trailer from Colorado to Wisconsin next month and would like to avoid any issues if possible...... Obviously, I know ....
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2 wks ago I was running down I95 at about 95-100 mph (basically floored) in a rush to get somewhere on time. Since then my truck has been running for crap. It threw the p0171 code when I checked it. When driving under normal conditions it pings a lot and my mpg is down about 3 mpg and has this hesitation when you get on it. Even when you accelerate at a normal rate it surges a little, it pings a lot and has a loss of power, about 30-40%. It feels really sluggish and doesnt want to pull and then you will feel it starting to pull a little harder then it starts to surge/hesitate a little again.
Truck has 147k on it. I was having a similar situation until I had the plugs replaced at 125k, so I figured the plugs shouldn't be the problem. So I replaced the fuel and air filters, cleaned the maf w/maf cleaner and Throttle body w/tb cleaner and replaced the pcv with a new one from ford. Still pings bad under load and still has the hesitation/surging and crappy fuel economy. Its running smoother but no fix yet. This is crazy trying to pinpoint this issue. The detonating isnt crappy gas because I used super and it still detonates quite a bit.
Its a 06' F250 5.4 3V XLT Lariat SC FX4....
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I had a leaking coolant crossover so had to remove that and replace it with a new one. In doing so i removed the air assembly, throttle body, fuel injectors, and Spark plug coils. I reassembled everything, no more leaks but now my GAS engine sounds like a school bus. I've lost power, going up hill is rough, once i hit 40mph my car starts to shake a little bit but when I am on a straight away it will sometimes drive normal and sometimes go back to driving slowly. it also idles rough.
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I don't know what is wrong with my truck. I don't know what this symptoms called, but It felt like it was missing a beat. The engine suddenly lost power for a second or two wile driving. It did this few times. Is it the engine or the transmission? No check engine light is on. 2001 F250 5.4 V8
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I have a 2011 f250 with the 6.2 liter gas engine. Lost power and the check engine light came on. I pulled the codes and it is a camshaft position sensor and 4 other codes for misfire on all cylinder for that bank. I can't find any info on where the sensor is located or how to replace it.
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I have a 2004 F250 Torqshift trans, 155,000 miles. It has had a slight hesitation when trans is engaged for about 4 years, not a problem the dealer has no fix they said.
Now today for the first time I had a tow haul light come on while driving on the freeway. It would not go into overdrive and the light keep blinking. Later in the day, I let it cool down and it drove fine to the store about 2 miles. When I got in to drive home it had tow haul light go blinking and check engine light came on this time.
I hooked up my code reader and it's giving codes: P0720, P0751 and P0766.
Should I take it to the Ford dealer, a Transmission shop or have a friend who worked at Ford Dealer do the Work? I see that some people have changed out the TFT sensor and corrected the problem. While the pan is down should I just have all the shift solenoid sensors changed?
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I have a 2008 6.4 powerstoke with 162,000 miles. It went into reduced engine power , so i had a sct x4 tuner with cold air intake and dpf delete installed. i just picked it up and it is smoking at initial start up. Is this somewhat normal...
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I just picked up a 2012 F350 lariat with about 65 000 miles on it, and while driving home, it popped up with reduced engine power on my screen. Tried adding DEF fluid, seems to right up to the top already, no actual change in engine performance either. Also, no check engine light or service light on (wrench light)....never run across this before and am totally thrown off. Haven't taken to dealer yet...
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I just bought this truck for a pretty good price it has 225000 on it the engine was over heating. The guy put new rad, new water pump, new fan clutch, and a new heater core with thermostat. The truck still over heated so I pulled the thermostat to see what happens and the truck over heats even faster. All this happens while driving regardless of ac on or off. I got a motor and put a motor in it with all new pump and thermostat. I put new coolant in and flush radiator. I cut a hole in the cat to see if the cat was plugged for the truck seems to have low power and sputters. With in 1mile the truck over heated dumping all the coolant out of the system which the truck did as well before. Will the diesel rad work in this truck I have a diesel one I can put in since its a bigger rad?
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Truck seems to run ok, but when I push the brake pedal down a bit, a strange grinding/howling noise comes from the engine bay and same thing with the power steering. When I put the brake pedal down to the floor, it stops?
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