Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Heavy Duty Rubber Floor Mats With Transfer Case
Nov 12, 2013
New floor mats. My truck is going to be 10yr old and has the original King Ranch floor mats. I want some heavy duty rubber ones that will fit around my manual transfer case lever. I ordered the Weathertech digital fit liners and I am not happy with them so they are headed back tomorrow. They have a heavy duty all weather mat but not sure how it will work with my shift lever on the floor. Husky liners/mats look nice and heavy duty but won't accommodate the floor lever.
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For about a week or now i have been trying to track down a sound from my truck, i had another post up and was finally with jhl3 able to determine that the sound is coming from my transfer case. The other thread with video of sound is located here : [URL] .... I've got a little bit of time to mess with i now
Quick rundown, began hearing odd sounds about a week ago, determined that it is transfer case. Front hubs are unlocked, esof switch is set to 2wd. Can not turn front drive shaft. I just put some zip ties on front drive shaft and went for a short spin, determined front drive shaft IS turning. Hubs are not locked and 4x4 is not engaged, did the sharp slow turn test, no feel of pull from front end.
Im not quite sure where to go from here, going to check connections at tcase motor and some relays.
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Originally it would light up on the dash, the hubs would lock, but the transfer case would not shift in to 4 wheel. Followed the troubleshooting I've found, was receiving power at the connection on the shift motor but it was not turning.
So I went and bought a new motor, installed it, still wouldn't turn. (with the motor off the transfer case but electrically connected). So I found a few more replies about the relays, swapped them, nothing.
Removed the covers and manually flipped the connection, nothing. Now my hubs are locked, transfer case is not, and I get nothing when I change the switch on the dash. (no lights, no hub click shift, no 4 low, nada). All the fuses are good, just doesn't work.
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The transfer case on my 2004 F350 6.0L 4WD DRW, 230K miles, just blew to pieces Sunday night. See images below. What could cause this?
I just had the front drive shaft rebuilt with new universals and ball. It was making a metallic squealing noise after this.
I noticed that the front drive shaft did not spin freely when parked in nuetral and set for 2WD. I thought the front drive shaft would only engage when in 4WD.
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We have a 2000 F250 7.3L Diesel. A few years ago we switched out the auto hubs for manual Warn hubs. We've had no problems with 4x4 since that time, until now!! The 4x4 Hi light is on and the transfer case is engaged. Since the hubs are manual we have them unlocked, however we can't get the 4x4 to disengage. At one point, tried changing to low and it hesitated but finally went in to 4 Lo, then we had a hard time getting it out of 4Lo and back to 4 Hi. Here's what we've tried--checked fuses, checked and replaced relays, checked wiring connection at the transfer case. Husband used volt meter to test power at transfer case wiring connector--showed 0.5 volt of power with the key on. No change in reading. Checked power at relay--about 14.5 volts there. Took truck to repair shop but their computer could not communicate with the GEM.
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Trying to stay up on my maintenance on my '11 f-350 diesel. It just turned 59k. I can only find Ford's recommended service interval for changing the fluid in the transfer case listed in the "Special Operating Conditions" section of my Scheduled Maintenance Guide for towing, delivery, off-road and dusty conditions at 60,000 miles. I tow some, but maybe 20% of the time, I end up driving a lot of stop and go though.
So I found this nice how to online "Guzzle's Transfer Case Fluid Change" - it's for a 02 heavy duty, is it about the same on the newer diesel trucks?
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I just changed transfer case fluid on my father's F-350 for the first time in 13 years. (over 230k). Removed fill plug first and fluid gushed out of the fill hole unexpectedly. Did not have catch pan ready, so made a mess. I thought it was just over filled form the factory, but too much was coming out to be simple overfill. Almost 2 qt came out of the fill plug.
Did some google search and found many Ford trucks have failed transmission output shaft seal and transmission fluid leaks out to transfer case, causing transfer case to overfill. I am yet to check transmission fluid level, but considering how much came out of it that probably is the case.
Now, how bad of the problem this really is? Will overfilled transfer case cause some serious problem? 4x4 is rarely used (once or twice a year in winter) on this truck and from what I understand transfer case doesn't really do anything in 2WD other than just passing output from transmission through.
There are no fluid leaking outside and repairing the seal would be a too much of work for me.
Also changed rear differential fluid for the first time and I was surprised how clean the fluid was. There were thin layer of black sticky residue (sludge?) covering everything, but the fluid itself looked clean and no visible metal shavings. I guess that is why Ford said it does not require change under normal condition.
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2001 F250, 7.3L ... After much diagnosis, I've found that the 4 positive feeds to the transfer case relay base have no power to them. The fuse that feeds them (#17 CJB) is fine and when I jump from the fuse hot side directly to the transfer case motor contacts on the relay base, it shifts fine. As far as I can tell, there is only one wire leading from that fuse so there must be a junction block somewhere that splits it into the 4 wires that feed the relay block. I've looked underneath and found nothing. How the 1 wire gets split into 4? On diagrams this junction point is labeled, but I don't know where to find that.
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Made a short run to get lumber yesterday and when I got home the truck smelled hot I checked it out and found a transmission oil leak at the rear of the transmission in front of the transfer case. can not really see what is leaking only has 22,000 miles. What may have happen. 2011 F250 4x4 6.7....
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Truck is an 03 F350 with the 6.0. It sometimes sounds like the shift motor on the transfer case is trying to engage. It has the vacuum system which is blocked off. Warn aftermarket hubs. Switch on the dash with 2wd, 4wd and 4 low.
It's kind of an off and on thing. Try to engage for a few or more seconds then nothing for awhile then repeat. It sounds like it's at the transfer case. It could very well be coming from firewall/engine bay area as well. Is there anything between the dash switch and the motor?
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I'm in the process of changing my shift motor on my 04 f350. I can't get it off because of a broken bolt. The previous owner must have done this before, and snapped the head and some of the shaft off, so it's basically an alignment pin that's recessed into the hole on the motor. For some reason it's holding the motor on, even though I don't think the hole is threaded. Any way to get it off. I'm thinking that taking a MAP gas torch to the casting on the motor may be my best bet.
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Always got winter mats because older car floors used to rust and most people around me get them.
If I don't:
Will the floor rust within 10 years? After that the outside will be rusted anyway
I don't care about dirty carpets; is this the only reason?
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Is there a steering stabilizer for a 92 Ford F-250 custom 2wd? and what's the difference between a f250 custom and a f250 heavy duty?
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It was raining today and when I went to get in my X i notice water dripping in on the floor in my rubber mats. it was down by the ebrake pedal under the dash. is this a windshield seal problem?
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My driver's floor mats is worn out. Lex only makes floor mats for the 2010 and they are thin and ugly. If I thought a car manufacturer would discontinue floor mats in the same model run I would have bought 2 sets..
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I recently purchased 1999 7.3 PSD The owners manual says that the crank case holds 14 qts. I have read on other sites 15 quarts. In my engine 14 is barely at the add mark. The cross hatch area is 2 quarts to the high mark. My question is should I put is 15 quarts to get the level up onto the cross-hatched area or leave it down at the add mark ?? I'm using Motorcraft 15 W 40 Dino oil. and I replaced the filter with the correct Fram filter.
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I just got this truck and didn't have any strange odors other than brake caliper which got replaced immediately. I got 4 new Mastercraft AXT tires last week and two days before that I got a muffler installed. I put a flowmaster on it (black) Now if I drive it about three four miles, I get a smell coming from somewhere which I can't locate because nothing is hot and it goes away within a few minutes so I cant pin point it. At first i thought it smelled like rubber heating up, but now not sure. I may take it back to tire dealer and have him check all the tires for balance. I had them do an alignment, so I would hope it isn't that. The smell came with the new tires I think....I had the exhaust worked on two days prior to that and didn't notice anything after that. I haven't checked anything else, but there isn't anything hot when I jump out and start sniffing around. Would tires do that if NEW or out of balance?
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My stock OEM fuel tank has a crack in it. I've got to replace it. I was thinking of getting a TransferFlow replacement tank. It would nearly double my capacity. My wife wants me just to go stock to save the money, but I'm thinking the extra capacity would be nice. One thing that did concern me, however, is how much my fuel efficiency might diminish because of the extra weight of the tank (150 lbs) plus fuel. Since it is a gas truck, not many options.
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I have a 03 f 350 6.0. My 4x4 wont engage. I checked my fuses all are good except 31 no power. Is this the culprit?. I get power at the 6pin pig tail on shift motor, but the 2pin pig tail doesn't get any power at all. I pulled shift motor off manually put power on it and it works. I also replaced both 30amp relays under hood...
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I have an issue with a truck I recently purchased. I have a vibration that starts around 50, feels like a wobbling vibration. Than once I hit 75 it feels like the truck is going to fall apart. Heavy rumbling.
It's a Ford F-350 dually extended cab. With 115,000 miles on it.
I took it to the shop to balance out the wheels and all the wheels needed atleast 2 oz of weighs on each side. Some have as much as 4.75 oz on one side. Is it possible that I need 6 brand new rims?
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06 F250 6.0 CCSB 4x4 163K Truck was in a pass side wreck about three weeks ago. Aside from bumper, head light, etc I had to replace the track bar and then I had the alignment done. Mech said the steering was loose and was either the steering box or column.
PROBLEM: Truck drove and parked fine last night, I went to leave the driveway this morning and I had to turn the wheel full right while backing up. The wheel locked up and wouldn't turn back to the left to straighten out. Hood wouldn't pop either to check anything
I crawled under the truck, the belt was in place and I didn't see any power steering fluid leaking. Thinking it was a PS problem and the hood not opening, I basically floored it and yanked on the wheel and it broke loose. Also, for what ever reason the hood opened after that
Now the steering is heavy and the wheel doesn't center on it's own. It will stay turned when I let go of the wheel. Scared that it would happen I didn't try turning it full lock on the way to work. but it happened again exiting the parking lot, again full right lock and the wheel stuck.
I managed to yank the wheel to the left again and I heard a distinct pop from what I'm sure was the pass side wheel area.
The PS fluid is dark and I'll figure out how to change it. I've read issues from the U-joints, ball joints, Steering box, steering stabilizer, and failing PS pump could all lead to this. Being the truck had a pass side fender bender, and I'm pretty sure the pop sound came from the pass side how do I check all of these items.
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