Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Heat Mode Switch - Compressor Does Not Come On In Some Conditions
Dec 7, 2015
I have a 2001 F-350 S/D w/7.3. Question is... Is it possible for the mode switch ( one controls floor/ defrost and A/c ) to not function or should I say leave the a/c on even if it is not in a/c position? What I have noticed was that when it is in the floor mode or the vent mode (not the floor/vent) the compressor does not come on. When it is in vent/floor or either a/c modes it does. Is this normal... I don't think so though I do know anytime the a/c is switched on compressor should come on but no time without a/c being on.. Maybe I'm wrong
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I have just bought a 2004 F-250 SuperDuty 6.0 Diesel with 98k miles from a Ford dealer (no warantee)...
Just after I drove it home I noticed the Tow/Haul mode switch was not working - no dashboard light and no transmission downshifting.
The dealer took the truck back in and kept it for 2 days, it came back working, they claimed to have replaced the gear shift lever. 500 miles later and the Tow Haul has failed again.
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Last Oct. I noticed that my ac/heater started to intermittently stop blowing from AC fresh air/recir/vent/etc. mode and stick to defrost only. Do I have a bad switch and or a vacuum issue here? It's a '01 F350 CC 7.3 .....
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On my 2002 F250 7.3 I kept getting a check engine light when I pulled my 5th wheel uphill, I took it to a shop and they told me my HPOP needed replaced. I bought a new pump and installed it. Now my check engine light comes on and turns off during normal driving conditions. I do not have a code yet but hoping there is some idea on what might have happened.
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I have a 2008 F350 with a 6.4 Powerstroke diesel engine that just experienced total engine failure. It has around 65K miles.
There is a heavy burn star pattern on all 8 pistons, a few pistons are cracked, a few cylinder walls are scored, glow plugs are melted, both heads are cracked with multiple stress fractures in each head.
About 1 month previously, the transmission would not work in tow mode and caused the engine to go into limp home mode. The dealership just replaced the entire tranny as a warranty item. About 1 week before the engine failure, I put in a 5.25 oz bottle of Lucas injector cleaner with a full tank of gas.
The Ford dealership is saying that the star pattern on all 8 pistons is due to high pressure fuel overspray and is evidence that I had a tuner on this engine and that the warranty is invalid. I did not have a tuner. What might have caused this engine failure?
Also, they only ripped down the top half of the motor, not the bottom half. I heard this might have been caused by a cracked crank shaft, but Ford refuses to investigate this possibility.
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2012 6.2 XLT 50,000 miles with manual single zone controls. I haven't had time to work on it yet, but it seems that my AC compressor is not engaging. The dash controls light up normal, fan comes on, etc. I am just looking to see if there are any common failure points. I know it COULD be low on charge, clutch could be bad, etc. I am just checking if there is a common failure with these trucks AC system.
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With the few hot days we have had here lately, I have noticed that after about a minute the AC will go warm and I will have to rev the truck up when it does to get it cold again. It seems the compressor is disengaging. I noticed that the condenser has a big gash with a tube ripped open on top. I know it needs to be replaced, but could that be causing the compressor issues? It's a 2003 7.3L.
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Ok AC wasn't working took it to a mechanic told me the the compressor was missing a clutch he recommended i put a new compressor. Is it possible just to put a new clutch in it and if so do i have to remove the compressor to put the clutch on it.
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2003 V10.. Can I replace the AC compressor clutch with out pulling the compressor out?
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I am not sure which it is but I cannot turn the pulley by hand. How do you tell if the pulley is bad or the whole compressor? I went out to start the truck and it wouldn't start. It died so I restarted it and then I seen the smoke from the front of the truck. I opened the hood and the flipping belt was just hanging there. Is there a way to just bypass the unit for now? I wont be needing the AC till summer and that is several months away.
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Just noticed something funny yesterday while flushing my radiator. I have an 04 F350 with the 6.0. When I have the heat set to come out both high and low vents, the A/C compressor also kicks on. The pipes by the passenger side firewall get cold. If I set the heat to just come out high or low, it turns off. This is not with the defroster on. Why does this happen? Is it supposed to happen?
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Trucks compressor kicks on and off and won't stay on no cold air at all do i have a leak ? The truck came whit a new canister that mounts in front of the air box could it be that?
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Of course my freon all leaked out of the AC compressor and it is squealing pretty bad. I did not want the serpentine belt to break due to a seized compressor so I looked for a bypass pulley kit. Naturally they make one for both gas engines, but not for the diesel. So out comes the string and sharpie, and trips to 2 different auto parts place to get the correct length belt after trying several that were too short. It's 103 inches (8 groove) for future reference to bypass the ac compressor and upper extra pulley. 7.3 diesel.....
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This maybe a dumb question. But when do you use this feature? How many pounds should I start using the tow mode? I dont haul much. I just haul a 4place trailer with 4wheelers. And in the bed another 4 wheeler or camp gear. All the 4wheelers weigh over 650lbs wet and the trailer not too sure but its steel.
My truck doesnt have a hard time hauling, it shifts fine. Feels like its not even hauling anything. I did use to tow mode once but it seem it just keeps the rpm higher and I felt that the highter rpm was not needed when I was hauling.
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I bought a used 99 f250 v10, i went to turn on the a/c today, and it only blows where the defrost is toward the window. it gets cold after awhile, but nothing out the vents, the heat either.
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2002, F250, 5.4, ZF6, 140k.
My heat only blows through the defroster. I was looking for my vacuum pump, but can't seem to find it. I find plenty of diesel threads where they show it, but mine isn't in the same location. I can actuate the diverter by hand and it will make the heat stop at the defroster and come out at your feet.
I have attached images of my rig.
Were to look for the vacuum pump? Any key spots to look for failed vacuum lines? What is this?
This is where most threads say the vacuum pump should be.
This switches from defrost to floor when operated manually.
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My heater stopped working.
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I have an F-250 Ford, 2006, 6.0 turbo-diesel. Started noticing that my heat only works while running at 70 mph or more and the turbo is at around 15-20 psi. Now that it has gotten cold it is definitely an issue. Truck does not overheat, I am not able to feel heat on the hose after control vlave and I do not feel any vacuum on the line (grey) to the control valve. I have checked for leaks, changed out the fill cap, checked anti-freeze level, pulled control valve just to verify its position when opened (which it seems to stay open). It's getting really cold in the cab of that truck now.
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Seems like my truck won't move at 4x4 when getting into and out of parkings. Combination of low speed and turning feels like I am fighting the truck and need to apply more power to get it moving and then there are strange noises.
Is this normal behavior from 4x4 system? I think it is but just want to make sure that constant switching between 4x4 and 2x4 is normal. I was just to AWD cars before that.
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My truck was involved in an accident and required a replacement front axle be installed due to damage to the housing. The truck was in four wheel drive when my wife got T-boned and drove up over the median twice to avoid a head on. The shop that did the insurance work said they replace the axle with a low mileage used unit, but since then the hub switches aren't working correctly.
I have taken it to them 4+ times to look at the issue and I keep telling them that the driver's side hub switch won't release, but I keep getting it back with the same problem. The most recent fix they came up with was to replace switches and electrical components. I am thinking that a vacuum leak in the hub may be to blame. I am taking the truck back to them again this afternoon as the 1 year warranty on the repairs is up next week.
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Got a 06 F250 V8 Gas. Went to turn AC on the other week & got warm air out vents. Put 1 can of 134 in & the gauge on the "kit" said it was in the green. It was working last summer. You can turn the compressor "face" so it's not locked up, but it's not kicking in. Swapped the replay with another one & the 10a fuse in the fusebox under the steering wheel is good. Is that the only ones? I find it hard to believe that it's something serious. We did change the belt a few weeks ago & I was hoping that we had pulled a wire loose. The vacuum line that plugs into the heater hoses is plugged in.
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