Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Hard To Start - Shifter On The Column Seemed To Have Some Play When In Gear
Mar 14, 2009
I started having a issue with getting my 00 f250 power stroke to start. It started out I could move around the gear shifter in park and get it start and today I had several times I had to put it in neutral to get it to crank. I did notice that my shifter on the column seemed to have some play when in gear but then again my 99 F250 V10 also has some free movement when in gear. Is there a neutral safety switch I could replace or any way to adjust the shifter?
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I'm looking at purchasing a 2003 F-350 from a Ford Dealer, Drove the Vehicle last night and the Gear shiftier was very tight and hard to pull down. Is this a real concern? The Sales guys said its better to be stiff rather than sloppy. But they will say anything, right. The vehicle is a deal and so I'm looking to find out why.
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2002 F350 5.4 . I did some plowing today, truck ran Great, but noticed the Auto Shifter starting to get some play in it, 185 k on it. I recall reading about how to tighten it back up.
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I've been having an ongoing problem with the gear shifter jammed in park after startup. I changed the brake switch and installed a new ignition switch to try fix the problem. Later, I noticed the battery indicator gauge was flat lined even though the truck was running. Out of sheer frustration, I banged the bottom of the steering wheel and suddenly the battery indicator jumped to life and the truck went into gear again.
I took off the panel beneath the steering wheel off to look for any obvious loose wires but found none. This sounds strange but at first, the problem occurred more in the mornings when the weather was cold outside. No, it seems that the battery indicator will flat line while I'm driving in all weather conditions but jumps back up when I tap the steering wheel. I've included a video on youtube to illustrate the problem.
Youtube Video .....
2001 F250 Lariat Superduty 7.3Lm
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2015 F-250 4X4 CC gas truck. 6R140 Transmission..
My truck has 6500 miles on it and since day one when I put my shifter in (D) there is a 3-4 sec delay in the transmission to engage every morning when I start out, rest of the time there is no delay even when the truck sits all day at work (about 9 hours). I have read in 2011 (?) that the transmission was loosening it's prime and would cause this problem, so how it's got me thinking.
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The tranny is shifting really hard between 2 and 3 if I feather the throttle it can be a little less of a jolt but still enough none the less iv never done a filter and fluid change as I just got it it has 235000 miles 99 v10 super duty 4x4....
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I recently purchased a 00 F250 psd 4x4. Other than doing all of the fixes it needs to make it ride better I have been questioning the trucks "get up and go" and the EXTREMELY sensitive skinny pedal. Truck seems to pull very hard and puts out some black smoke under hard throttle but nothing like the really tuned trucks I have seen. But the skinny is so sensitive its hard to drive under 40mph in 3rd and once it gets up to 55 or so its real sharp getting on and off the throttle. Trans shifts great, TC locks and unlocks, truck runs awesome IMO but just a bit harsh. Is there a way to find out if it was tuned prior to me buying it other than inspecting for a chip, or is this the way they are and I just have to get used to it more...?
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Ok so I'm having a problem that seems to have been getting worse. 1999 7.3, auto, 4 door, long bed, 6" lift. When I got the truck a while back I had a slight problem where if I was accelerating hard I would hear a clunk when it shifted into 3rd gear. I'm not hard on the truck that often so it took me a while to realize that the noise was the driveshaft hitting the floorboard right at the joint at the transfer case output.
The carrier bearing was flopping around a bit so I replaced that first. No better... kept driving the truck since it was only a problem while being really hard on it. But it's gotten worse so now when I tow (usually not more than 7-8k lbs) I have a bad vibration on takeoff at low speed. If I try to take off from a stop very hard with any load the driveshaft jumps into the floorboard. So I just replaced the transmission mount and checked the motor mounts, no better. Only thing I can figure at this point is axle wrap...?
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Got an '01 f350 v10, auto. When using steering column shifter tends to be hard to find reverse and drive. Is it something in steering column selector or is it in tranny? The truck has 40,000 miles on it. Have a parts truck also so just trying to figure out where to start first.
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I have a 1997 F250 heavy duty 4x4 7.5 efi. I just bought a 2003 weekend worrior weighing 5800lbs dry. When I go up slight hills in 4th gear it seems to work real hard especially on freeways, could my clutch be slipping or am I just at max tow
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Checking the front end with the front wheels off the ground I noticed that my Suspension Stabilzer Bar has about an 1/8" up and down play in it. No side to side play at all. I checked the nut on the ball joint and it is tight but wondering if this is why I am feeling a slight tight/loose feeling when going down the freeway at 65.
It has this "tight" or a slight grab feeling when the steering wheel is centered and I move it left or right slightly (like normal steering wheel movement to stay in your lane) I don't feel this at slower speeds 30-40 etc just when I am straight on the freeway at about 65-70 mph.
Ball joints and everything else looked fine, no play noticed. Never had the "death wobble" but having this up/down play in their stabilizer bar.
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So, in my 99 Bounder RV (F53 chassis), V10
I think it has a 4R100 transmission in it (I have not verified this).
I had the oil and filter changed about 10K ago.
Runs and shifts fine .... then I stop and idle with it in gear (say stopped in traffic for a few minutes).
Now the thing shifts super hard! I actually get rubber in all gears.
So I pull over, shut it off. Restart the unit and everything is fine again.
It does this very consistently!
I went to the local transmission shop. They said with 110K in an RV it could be anything and I should think about letting them rebuild it.
Now that is something I would do ... not diagnose a problem and just rebuild it. I thought a "professional" would actually look for the problem first.
I don't want to rebuild the transmission if there is small item that will fix this.
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I go out of town for work for a week and come back and my 1999 F250 V10 GAS, is acting up. It started when i tried to drive it and it didn't want to shift, it would rev up to 3000+ RPMs and finally shift really hard into gear along with the speed odo not keeping up and bouncing around not wanting to work. I also had my entire gauge cluster lit up with no key and door closed. all the lights were on and it was "dinging" like the door was open and it wasn't. you would hear it when you put your ear up to the door.
So my first thought was to change the VSS (which I did) no luck. So I started wiggling wire loops under the fuse box in the cab and the "dinging" quit.. i took it for a drive and it works like nothing ever happened. Obviously I am guessing there's a short so i brought it to my mechanic and hes saying he couldn't find anything by the fuse box but he thinks its closer or even attached to the gauge cluster itself. could this be true? Why would the gauge cluster loop throw off the shift points?
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have a new 2015 SuperDuty that when you start engine, then turn radio on,,,radio will play for 3 seconds , go off for one or two,comes back on repeats process for four or five minutes before the radio or CD player plays on on continuous basis,,,is this the way the new radios operate?
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Truck: 1999 Ford Truck F 350 4WD Super Duty V8-7.3L DSL Turbo VIN F
Problem: Especially when it is cold outside . . . The truck takes forever to start and while doing so a ton of white/grey smoke comes out of the exhaust.
My starting schema: Turn the key on have the gas pedal pushed to the floor until the "wait to start" light goes out. Then, I turn the key off and back on while still pressing the gas pedal all the way down. When the "wait to start" light goes out again I remove my foot from the pedal and try to start it. I never leave it cranking for more than 5-7 seconds. If, after trying this process several times I will not push the pedal in at all. Also, sometimes I will leave the pedal pushed in while I am cranking it over.
The truck used to start after a couple of tries but lately it won't start at all, even after 20 tries. Sometimes it will spin up for a second as if the engine gets going but then just doesn't continue running. When it is warm out it will usually start after a few tries but doesn't seem normal to me. After I first bought the truck(used) it would start up within half a second after turning the key.This all started after I had to fix an o-ring that was damaged on the top/back of the motor that was dumping all my oil out of the top/back of the motor.
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Bought 02 350 DRW, started hard first day, now not cranking. Seen a post on neutral transmission switch and mine is not lining up, but need to adjust the rod out of transmission also? I was able to match lines on switch but with flanges on fitting it will move back out of place when moving it to fit in bolts.
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After the years and 300k miles, the door hinge on the driver side door are getting some play. I wonder if i can replace just the pin on this hinge or the whole thing needs to be replaced. By the way, I am talking about a 00' F450 ...
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I've been having sporadic starting issues with my truck since the fall. I had the spark plugs changed but that did not work. The hard starts usually occur when the engine is hot....after filling gas or just running into the grocery store. The engine seems to turn over slowly the first try and won't start. The second or third try the engine turns over normally and the truck usually starts.
I just got back from a 90 minute drive and shut off the truck for 5 minutes and now it won't even turn over. My thought is that it can't be the battery....its been charging for 90 minutes. Headlights are strong, wipers work fast, fan blows hard. That being said I think alternator or battery can be ruled out?
Where do I look next? Starter? Is there a starter solenoid that could be defective?
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My '01 f250 7.3 has gotten hard to start. It seems to maybe be due to cooler weather, but not always. I have been told that there is some sort of valve in the fuel tank that could possibly cause this when the fuel gets around a 1/4 tank or so. But, it's doing it at any fuel level. But it doesn't do it all the time. I do notice it more in cooler weather. Anyway, when I try to crank it, I'll let the "wait to start" light go off and then wait a bit more. I'll turn it over and it almost as if the batteries are weak.
I'll stop and give it a few seconds and turn it again and it will normally start. But sometimes I'll do this 5 or 6 times and it will finally fire. But the more I have to try, it's like fuel builds in the cylinders and it smoke like a coal train for a minute or so. Almost like gas motor that has been flooded. But the smoke burns off and it runs like a top. I was thinking the batteries may be weak , but sometimes the starter will spin the motor with no trouble at all. I'm at a loss. Is it possible for fuel to drain from the system causing it to have to reprime itself? Here lately the smoking has me concerned even though it clears up.
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Recently purchased a 99 F250 SD w/ V-10 Triton which purrs like a kitten and drives great until I turn it off and then re-start. It has trouble re-starting and then when started and put in drive...won't go anywhere. Zero power. Oddly, in reverse it goes. Getting decent flow from exhaust. No vacuum leaks I can find. No check engine light on either. Strange.
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I have a 2007 f350 scsb with the 6.0 that has 131k miles on it... I bought it in December at 125k and since I first got it I've noticed a lot of steering play at highway speeds only... Basically 60 mph and up... I have a hard time switching lanes and passing because it's very unpredictable just how the truck will behave... It feels like the steering is loose but also slightly delayed and when I make slight adjustments it feels like the truck overcorrects itself... Could this be a steering box issue? A power steering issue?
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