After the hard downshifting full throttle highway run low speed stomp on it freeway cruising tires spinning on gravel crawling through town day yesterday -
my tranny just doesn't know what to do!! One thing that it does like to do is make that 6.2 spin and sing! Eventually we'll be on the same page so we can work and play seamlessly.
We have a lot of snow and a lot of ice up here at the moment and my 2003 ford F-250 SC Fx4 isn't performing so well. The truck is stock other than a pair of 285/16R BFG A/T's
I have been noticing that my rear tires will spin while trying to go up hill on some ice or snow covered areas and my front tires just sit still while in 4x4 or 4x4 low. In the case I just described I remain stuck in place until the rear tires can get a grip then I continue up hill. I don't understand why my front tires are not spinning as well, to me this seems just like 2 wheel drive not 4x4. I have been using ESOF most of the time. I have mentioned in other threads that I do plan on upgrading to warn premium hubs, but I am wondering if its that my truck isnt actually shifting into 4x4 or if there is a reason why even in 4x4 my rear tires would spin while my front tires do not?
I am confused because when I shift on the fly while driving I can feel the 4x4 kick in because it just feels different than driving with 2 wheel drive, but then something like I described will happen and I start second guessing myself. What might be happening? It's not that I am opposed to switching to the warn premium hubs, but is that actually going to fix this issue or is my truck acting normally??
My truck is a 2002 F350 CC dually longbox 4x4 7.3 auto that I bought last fall. On the street it is very well behaved although I suspect it is not giving me as much power as it should be, as compared to my previous 95 powerstroke.
Off road, slow crawling, the throttle is very jerky. Under acceleration it is smooth, but if I try holding a low throttle position, the rpm rises and falls. I am certain this is a bad TPS, and may also be contributing to my perceived low power on the street.
I have googled my brains out and it seems there is a cheap replacement TPS for earlier trucks but the 2002 has the 5 wire combined TPS and IVS, which reportedly is not replaceable without replacing the whole pedal assembly. To complicate matters I have the adjustable pedal assembly
So are there any options other than buying a complete pedal assembly from ford? Can I save some bux and retrofit a non-adjustable pedal assembly? I saw a youtube video where a guy put a newer 6.0 pedal assembly in but he was short on specifics about what exactly he gained doing this.
I put some bfg at's on my '16 f250 6.2 today, 285/70r17 from 245/75r17. Has went to a larger tire and had funny downshifts? I had two hard down shifts on the way home from tire shop that I have never had before. I'm hoping this will go away once the computer relearns. Should I disconnect the battery or anything or just drive it and let it learn? I'm a little disappointed, the tires still look tiny, and checking clearances at liners and radius arms, I could have cleared a lot more tire easily. They sure looked bigger on dads '04. These will do me for a year or so until I can upgrade wheels, tires and suspension.
Before
After
I put on huge mud flaps front and rear, have the platinum running boards, spray inner fenders on rear .....thought I had it covered....getting rock chip on front of rear fenders can see impact marks on hard plastic protector and upto 8 inches above it.....thought of 3m on Monday morning but is there anything else? I think the gravel is coming off front wheel hitting bottom of running board touching off road and getting me....can't think of any other way.
View 4 RepliesI've been tracking down all sorts of issues in my Excursion 4x4 lately and I have a few questions. I have an issue where everything is spinning as I drive even in 2wd. I gutted my hubs and removed the driveshaft. I had new u joints put in the front shaft today and re installed it. I still have the same issue of everything spinning while driving in 2. I had my marks move with the shaft in or out. I assume its getting toward front axle joint time. The shop owner said there should not be any movement in 2 but every SD I've seen has the axles spinning driving around town. I'm just confused because I have the entire driver side axle move when I spin the shaft by hand.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford f250 6.0. When driving it down the road i will hear a loud spinning sound, sorta like putting a playing card in your bicycle spokes. The sound can be heard until I make a complete stop where at that time the sound stops and a clunk can be felt. After that the truck sounds normal. This also only happens once between starting the truck and turning it off. I took it into the shop and they could not hear the sound, all they said is i need new ball joints.
View 6 RepliesCame over the "mountain" tonight elevation is 1,054 (Snickers Gap) anyway cruise was set to 62mph and the truck kept downshifting. Got to 2nd gear about 5500 rpms and was trying to hold 62mph. I turned off cruise and it stayed in second and picked up speed still in second, I finally tried some braking and some acceleration with the gas pedal and it shifted up through to 6th. Truck has 6.2L and 3,300 miles on it. I wasn't really afraid of wrecking or anything but I was convinced it was going to redline in 2nd, it didn't but it was really loud. I was about 10-15 seconds from throwing it in neutral.
Additional info: I have driven this road for 14 years, with cruise control on in everything from a geo metro, (2) different 2010 f-150's 4.6 and a 5.4, ford escape hybrid, and many other vehicles. This is probably the 10th time I have taken the new F-250 in to the city and back it has never reacted this way before, but I have notice it downshifts more than I expect in other situations as well.
So is the downshifting what others are seeing?
6.2L Supercab, longbed 3.73 gears.
I recently overhauled a 5r110w torqshift in an 03 F350. The trans is acctually an 06 trans. The original problem was that the truck was "tieing up" on take off. When i tore the trans down i found the Low/Reverse clutches were burned bad and welded together. Everything else looked decent. I replaced all the clutches and checked all the clearances, except the OD clutch because i could not find any specs, or a way to adjust it. The trans has been doing good for around 200 miles. Now it has an intermittent problem.
When you first start the truck its like the converter has to fill up. It has a delayed engagement, but only AFTER you shut the truck off. Also, after driving about 10 miles, sometimes it will feel sluggish. I put my Solus Pro on it and while watching the trans data noticed that the transmission is not downshifting all the way int first gear at times. It will down shift, and then try to take off in 3rd and sometimes 5th gear. I was looking thru my ATSG manual and i can see which clutches turn in for 3rd. It seems like a solenoid is sticking on and allowing fluid to "leak" and keep the wrong clutch turned at the wrong time.
I have a 2008 F250 XLT. When i am driving and turn the wheel a squeak is noticeable while the tire is spinning. as i speed up the squeak gets faster and slower when i slow down. I have it narrowed down to the right front tire but cant figure out what is causing it.
View 5 RepliesHaving downshifting problems with REbuilt transmission. Is there a FIPL sensor for the 4r100? I was told to check all engine codes first, but i just have a EBPV sensor code, but removed the valve when I installed the GT38R turbo...
Rebuild:
- Tugger kit
- triple disc Billet torque converter
- New clutches and seals,.
- Banks Trans command module
... I also have a 6-pos tuner.. I had a Super chips tuner too and it has ALWAYS had the downshifting on acceleration on up-hill grades!!
Yesterday I was parked on an incline with my front wheels on gravel and the rear wheels on wet grass/mud. When I tried to go, the rear wheels started spinning. I then switched on the low 4x4, and tried to go. The rear wheels continued to spin, but the front did not turn. I had new wheels installed, that has a cap that covers the manual locking hub, so I couldn't turn it to lock the hub. What should I look for to fix the problem?
2007 F250 4X4 Larriat SRW
First off I want to say I love my 11 f350 6.3 srw she's a awesome truck. I pull a small 7x14 trailer for my biz..
(3600-400) is the usually weight, I always use my tow feature. One day last week I start out hit my button in go, but I notice the engine braking/down shifting wasn't working. The trans still shifts smooth n normal the light is on the dash but no tow engage.
I check the transmission wire plug to make sure it'd getting a good connection, it does. I take the rubber boot off next to the shifter look at those wires they look ok not pinch or nothing, so I'm stumped.
I have a 1999 Ford F250 super duty 4wheel drive, lifted (really a leveling kit but had to lift rear to compensate), 5.4l. Im having a problem with my front shaft turning while in 2 wheel drive. Hubs aren't locked and its in 2 wheel not 4. I've taken hubs off and the bearing spins free soo I know its in auto. Why is the drive shaft still turning???????
View 5 RepliesLooking to upgrade my tires and would like to go a hair bigger but nothing radical. I have the 20's now, what's the biggest size I can go to with no lift.
View 2 RepliesI got a 2003 5.4L Auto F-250 Super-duty CC yesterday and noticed it needed newer/new tires. I found some today and got them put on. I looked when the tires were off and all the tie rods, brakes, etc looked good. After leaving the tire shop the check engine light came on, I drove about 10kms on the hwy and it seemed fine then I got into town and made a stop.
When I was leaving there to go home I heard something that sounded like a chain dragging for a second then when I braked at lights the truck started jumping kind of so I pulled over and everything still looked fine. So I drove another 5kms and it was fine except for 1-2 lights it happened again, the brakes would squeal when stopping.
Then when accelerating from a light the truck would shake and make scraping noises until I hit about 30kms per hour, this happened whenever I heard the squealing at the few stops I had to do at lights. Some lights I stopped at and it was normal. The tires that were on the truck originally were mismatched, different sized and smaller than the stock size. The ones I put on are all the same set, and are 265-75-R16. what this could be?
I had my leveling kit installed today. Bilstein 2" leveling coils, adjustable track bar, 4" rear blocks, and shocks front and rear.
I have 295/70/18 tires on stock wheels that didn't rub anywhere before. Now at full lock to the left the drivers side tire just barely rubs on the radius arm. How is that possible? I was planning on getting 35s soon when these wear out but it seems like those would rub even worse.
Three times I've had a blown out tire on my '02 F350 crew cab/long bed 4x4 V10 while driving long distances on the freeway. Twice drivers rear, once drivers front.
All 3 times were in warm weather (85-95F). First time (rear) was on the Yokahama's which were on the truck when I bought it and a bit oversized. The date code says they were 10 years old, so I replaced all the tires with OEM sized BFG Rugged Terrains. Then it happened again- front last October. Did about $4K worth of damage. Now my buddy, called me up saying it happened to him (rear) while he was borrowing my truck for a trip.
In the first first two cases, I noticed a wobble. The second time wasn't as bad and stopped when slowed down (75 to 65mph), but it still blew. I specifically mentioned this to my friend to be on the look out and he said it never wobbled, but prior to it blowing the truck started to pull to the left.
In all three cases, the truck wasn't towing anything, but had stuff in the bed. The first two times I was taking my race motorcycle to the track, so probably had about 800lbs worth of gear in the bed & cab. My buddy was probably carrying less weight, but I'm not exactly sure how much. Before my buddy borrowed the truck I set the tires to 70PSI since he was going to drive 400mi down to Barstow and then some light offroading on BLM land.
The alignment was done after October and it has four new shocks. Tires look great, have maybe 15K miles and I rotate them every 5K miles. The only mods to the truck are swapping the 4" F350 rear axle blocks with the 2" F250 to lower the bed.
I have a 2013 F250 6.7 Crew Cab Single Wheel. Stock 20" Michelin tires and stock suspension. I have almost 20K miles on it. I just rotated the tires again and noticed that the rears are worn down on the inside. The fronts look perfect.
View 11 RepliesI have a stock 2012 F250 6.7 Diesel. I was looking at getting new 18 or 20 inch rims for it and was wondering what the largest tire I could fit on those without rubbing on the truck would be. I know there are lots of topics on this but I could not find anything that applied to me. Most topics were on stock wheels.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 King Ranch F250 that had 18" rims on it. I just put a new set of 2008 KR 20" tires & rims on my truck and now the ABS light is on. Does increasing the tire/rim size mess with the ABS? If so how can I remedy this?
View 1 Replies