Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Growling Coming From Front End - No Fuel Pressure
May 15, 2013
2003 F250SD 5.4 4x4... When I recently heard a growling coming from my front end. I read some great posts on here about the whole front end tear down. Replaced all my ball joints, universals, wheel bearing hub units, locking hubs.....
So yesterday i came home from work, about 30 minutes later i hit the key on the truck and it wouldn't start. Kinda sounded like it wanted to but was starving for fuel. SO i grabbed the fuel pressure gauge and did a quick check......and No fuel pressure at all. Checked the fuse, Couldn't find a Relay in the fuse panel (Is there one for the fuel pump??). Anyway 4 hrs later the trucks starts right up like nothing is wrong.
Go figure, I'm 2 days away from my last payment ...now everything has to be going wrong.... Do these fuel pumps act up like that ??
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I had my fuel filters changed at the dealership today on my '15, and then I bought fuel and headed home (70 miles). About half way home I got a "Low Fuel Pressure" message and a little while after that "Reduced Engine Power" along with the check engine light.
I pulled over to see if they did something like leave the drain open, thinking it might be sucking air. Of course it was dark and I could not see anything. However I did hear a buzzing sound and could feel a vibration when I touched the fuel line going into the top of engine filter.
While it is possible I got bad fuel, I suspect they did something wrong installing the filters. Even after cycling the fuel pump multiple times they had a hard time getting it started afterwards; I think they finally disconnected the top fuel line to bleed the air out.
I continued home and made it, but not sure what to do now; its 70 miles back to the dealer.
What is the most likely problem? Improper fuel filter installation or bad fuel?
Should I pull the filters in the morning see if there is something obvious like an out-of-place gasket? If so, top or bottom filter?
Is this a tow truck affair or should I drive 70 miles back to the dealer?
What the heck is the buzzing sound?
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Changing a fuel pressure regulator on one of these? I'm having an issue with it running really lean, like laying down with no power lean.I put the pressure gauge on it and I'm running an even 30 pounds at the rail. Changed the filter in hopes, but no change. Just changed the O2 sensors and they were both white.
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On my 05 Super Duty, the gauge light for the fuel and oil pressure are out. The needles are still illuminated red but the backlight for the gauges are dark. Are these replaceable bulbs or are they a circuit board diode or something that can't be easily replaced?
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1999 F250 7.3 240k miles .... This is the second truck to act like this on me after I cleaned the in tank filters.
I had to cut the fpr spring to 30lbs for the truck to start fine cold and idle ok but has no power. When hot it wants to die and or dies at idle and has next to no power. ( I'm guessing from lack of fuel) but it's the only way for me to use it. With a new spring and 60ish lbs of fuel pressure, they won't even start.
I cleaned the in tank filters. New fuel filter. new oil. rebuilt the ipr. unplugged the ipc. no loss of boost. checked my uvch, wiggled all harnesses with no difference. I also tried dropping the tank again in case I pinched the return line but that made no difference.
I'm guessing that I need new injectors. I'm not close to anyone with a computer nor can I afford to throw away any more money at the moment.
Totally stumped and cannot seem to find a definitive answer online so far. Both trucks ran somewhat ok before and got worst once I dropped the tank and cleaned the filters which increased the fuel pressure. This is my second truck to act this way.
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5.4L... So like many this winter, I had an intermittent crank no start issue. Thought it to be fuel related, based on low fuel pressure readings.
Now all new - battery, iac, cam sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, air filter. Cleaned maf, temp sensor and throttle body. Engine starts, but I don't know if the problem is solved.
Fuel pressure is 40 with key on, falls to 35 on start-up, (which seems ok) but then after a few seconds, the pressure drops to 26 where it seems to want to stay. Hitting throttle hard makes it fall to about 20. I can't find any leaks in the fuel lines. Truck seems to run fine while driving.
To me, this doesn't seem good. Engine is not throwing any codes, but the ST fuel trim is running 0 to +3, and as high as +9 on occasion.
Does the consistent drop to 26 sound normal? Should I dig more into it, or just forget about it since truck seems to be running fine?
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I have a 2001 F-250 XLT 4x4 with V10. Truck will not start. No fuel pressure. My Haynes manual does not show ignition or fuel delivery wiring. I have found the relay box behind the radio/dash. I need a wiring diagram and info on which relay is the fuel pump relay. Want to know so I can jump relay to see if fuel pump is okay.
Truck had sat for a few weeks being ran very little, so had to jump start yesterday. Ran for about 15 min, the shut off, re-started and ran for 30 min. Truck sat for about 1.5 hours then would not start. Charged battery overnight and it is 100%.
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2000 f250 V10 ...
Problem: More often than not when the key is turned to run (?), prior to engaging the starter, the fuel pump does not turn on for its 5 seconds. I have installed a fuel pressure tester gauge to watch the fuel line pressure. It was a little shaky to diagnose because if the line had pressure/fuel from the previous run it will start and run a short time and then die from lack of fuel. Unless the fuel pump activates when the key is turned to run, prior to full start, then there will be no fuel coming from the pump. No start. If you work the key to run a few times until the pump engages its good to go. The truck has never died while driving, once it gets that initial pump activation it runs good until the next start up cycle. When the pump does work it builds up to good "book" pressure and holds it at 39 when the engine is shut off.
We have put off changing the fuel pump for obvious reasons but can not see how it could be the problem since it has never quit once after we get it started. Are we wrong? We know the fuel shut off is on as it will run. We have changed the key lock tumblers, the ignition switch and the fuel pump relay. (behind the radio). Next up is to re-seat all the fuses and relays in the main fuse panel box under the hood. I just read that today on FTE. Is there a test we can do or some engine codes we need to look for? This problem is getting old fast.
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I have a 2010 f250 6.4 About two months ago the truck just quite on me. I am a farmer in south jersey and have a decent background in diesel motors. First thing that came to mind was fuel. I assumed I was having a fuel issue (clogged filters, failed pump, etc.) truck only had 45,000 miles on it so I took it to my local dealership for what I assumed would be a warranty job. I dealer service all my trucks while under warranty. Long story short I was told it was a fuel contamination issue which scared the walls of the hpfp throwing metal pieces into the injectors, fouling them.
I would need all new injectors, fuel rails etc. as well as new filter housings, fuel tank cleaning, etc. I had receipts for every drop of fuel put in the vehicle and fought all the way to through the dealership to Ford who sent out a rep and who denied the warranty work. Fortunately my insurance company covered the ordeal and all repairs were completed. I got the truck back and 2 weeks later the truck died on me again. I called the dealership back who supposedly warranted the repairs but there first words were there is no way it is their problem, they would look at it but I have to consent that if they find it is contamination again I am responsible for the repairs which we all know just to diagnose they have to remove the cab etc.
I of course lost my mind and told them this is there issue and there is no way in hell I am that unlucky that I received 2 bad tanks of fuel from 2 different high volume highway side fuel stations in the same 2 months. it is obvious they missed something or there is another issue that was not addressed. They claim there is no way they missed something. I am at a standstill.
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Wondering what difference in tire pressure are you running front to rear. I have a 1999 CC LB 4x4 with a v10 with 180k on it and have always had to run lower on the rear with a empty bed. Most of the time I'm empty. If I don't the rear centers wear a lot quicker.
I ran KO's most of those miles and recently switch to Geolanders. The tires are 315x75x16. BTW the geolanders are doing great. A better rain tire, smoother and much more quiet. 6k on them so far and very little wear. Time will tell, I would get 55-60k out of the KO's.
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I have a 04 F250 4x4. This growling noise has been driving me nuts. Its barely audible, but its there. Brought it to the dealer for service a few weeks ago, they said I had a bad front hub bearing. So I got the truck back, ordered a hub bearing, and last weekend jacked the truck up to see whats going on. Spun both front wheels, no noise whatsoever. Checked for up/down play and side/side play, nothing. So I held off on installing the hub bearing.
The noise is really more noticeable when going down the road and when you hit dips in the road. Kinda where the bounce puts more force/weight on the front end, the growling gets louder. The truck has 74k miles on it. Its there whether the hubs are locked or unlocked. Could I still have a bad hub bearing even though the wheel spins free and quiet, and no play???
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I have searched through the site but have not found anything like the problem I'm having. I have a 2003 F250 5.4. Three weeks ago I attempted to start my truck and it just cranks. The fuel pump was not coming on. I left the truck over night and the next morning the truck starts with no issues. It ran normally for the next three weeks then the same thing happened again. Towed to the mechanic but the truck started up and ran. It shows no codes after both no starts and both times ran fine the next day. When running fuel pressure is where it should be.
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My 2000 f250 4x4 V10 5spd manual with LSD and 63k mi gets an intermittent but very strong vibration like a shuddering, growling, rumbling in 2WD. The 1st time it only lasted about 1 second. It had been making a swooshing noise that sounded like front left wheel bearing for several thousand miles before this, so i replaced bearing assembly even though it turned smoothly.
After that, It still made the exact same swooshing noise and after a couple miles at 45mph, it had the strong vibration/shudder that lasted about 3 seconds. I stopped and locked the hubs manually. The vibration happened again in a couple miles, so seems like it's not the needle bearings in front stub shafts or locking hubs. On that last occurrence, the vibe went on for 5 seconds, felt the same with clutch in, and went away only after truck slowed down to nearly a stop. I've driven it about 6 mi total since the 1st occurrence.
Front right Wheel bearings feel smooth. I unbolted the driveshaft support bearing and it spins smoothly. The front u-joint maybe had a tiny bit of play, all bolts tight. I didn't check the nuts for yokes, but it didn't look like yokes had any play. Drive shaft slip joint moves smoothly. No up-down play at pinion shaft input into rear diff and output from transfer case. Rear diff oil was full with a little bit of silvery sludge on the magnetic filler plug, maybe 1/10 of a cc, no metals slivers or chunks. I raised the rear wheels and ran 5th gear 2WD at idle (~30mph) and touched a 4' listening stick to the drivetrain components.
The only odd sounds were from the rear differential. It sounded like a bad bearing with random crunches and thuds mixed in with the normal whirring. Crunches and thuds were loudest at front of diff housing. I blocked one wheel and repeated in 3rd gear. You could hear noise like gears meshing (noisy spider gears? maybe was LSD clutches?). The differential was warm after 5-10 minutes, with the hottest area being about 3" from the front of diff, just before the housing widens.
So, I'm guessing the pinion bearing is bad and the intermittent shudder is the bearing race spinning in the case when bearing seizes.
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Today was the first time I have locked my wheel hubs in and used 4 wheel drive. However when I did all this i noticed that when I turn there is a growling sound but only when turning. It does not make the sound when unlocked and in 2 wheel drive.
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I have an 06 f250 that is making a growling noise that is speed sensitive and sounds like it might be coming from the front. I thought it was tire noise from my old worn out tires but with new tires it still maks noise, but tires have pretty rough tread. How can I tell if it could be a wheel bearing? It seems like the noise quiets down a little on right turns. It is kind of a growling humming noise that changes with speed.
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My 18 year old launched the little wire spring thing that applies pressure for the brake pads on front disc brakes. Could have gone in to neighbor's yard! Actually lost one on each side. He put it all back together without one on each side. I said it would still work fine. What's the deal really? Can't be that important are they?
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I noticed a slight whistle last year coming from my front left hub. I pulled the hub and greased the gears as best I could and it sort of went away. Now this year it is a little louder. It only happens when the hub is locked. Is starts around 20mph and goes away at 40. Is the bearing in the hub shot or is this normal. 4x4 works fine and there is no visible excess wear on the gears. The truck has 93k.
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I've been noticing a grinding coming from the front end of my 2012 f250 4x4, mostly while turning. It seems like its worse over uneven terrain, bumpy dirt roads, things like that, but I have noticed it on occasion while on seemingly smooth roads. Also a couple times while turning and lightly braking I could feel it interfere with the brakes. They wouldn't grab completely and you could feel the grinding in the pedal. I've been crawling around looking for rub marks or any indication of what might be causing it but until recently I hadn't noticed anything. Today though I found this. I'm guessing bad ball joint or tie rod maybe? Maybe just need alignment?
Passenger side lower control arm ...
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With the front hubs locked locked I get a ticking noise out of the front axle almost like there is rocks in the hubcaps. But unlock the hubs and the noise goes away. Also, if I put it in 4 wheel with the hubs unlocked i get no noise.
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I have a bad wobble/vibration coming from front end i think i replaced hub locking hubs u joints truck dont feel safe at all took it to ford they say its normal no way its not just starting doing it few month feels like the 4x4 is in use when hitting bumps when driving if you go slight left or right it seems too make act up more.
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On my way to see my folks and I started feeling a vibration like driveshaft or wheel bearing between 45-55 mph then at about 75 then BOOM! Pulled over and found a pool of ATF thought my stock 4R100 just bit the dust but looking at it the fluid is coming from the front driveshaft at the Tcase. My hubs are unlocked and my ESOF is in 2HI but I assume my tcase was locked. Also since the tcase is probably screwed I'm goin to do the 271 with manual hub swap, how hard that is?
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