Truck seems to run ok, but when I push the brake pedal down a bit, a strange grinding/howling noise comes from the engine bay and same thing with the power steering. When I put the brake pedal down to the floor, it stops?
View 12 Repliesi have a 2006 F250 XLT 5.4L 4x4 Crew Cab. after months of dealing with an ongoing power steering issue and replacing pumps left and right, i decided to replace the entire power steering system. Ordered Gearbox, Pump and Cooler from dealership. The install went fairly easy, and finished in 2 days.
The truck used to whine and grind as i would turn wheel any direction, driving or in park and the wheel used to pull , like jerk a bit when i would go like in a u-turn.
Not anymore, all those issues are gone. Steers straight , no whining , wheel doesn't pull anymore and all seems fine, EXCEPT when i take a turn , for example onto a driveway where its a bit of an incline. Then, i hear some grinding noise and a bit of vibration in my wheel. I think it comes from gearbox or pump.
Im scared not to drive it too much as all is new components and don't want to ruin all over again.
I noticed the front diff of my truck was whining, so it decided to take a look. I noticed that the passenger side hub would not unlock when it was in the lock position. My truck has the manual floor shifted 4x4 and the manual hubs, not the ESOF. I removed the locking hub from the hub bearing assy and I noticed that the axle shaft still moved when i spun the wheel. I know the manual locking hub is trashed (pieces fell out when i removed it from the truck) but does the fact that the axle shaft still spins in the assy with no hub installed also mean that my hub bearing assembly is trashed and warrants replacement?
Finally, the number one most annoying thing with this "new to me" truck, is this noise in the steering column. It is very hard to describe, but when slowly turning the wheel, either left or right, it will produce a groaning/grinding sound that CAN be felt in the steering wheel. There is a roughness/vibrating/binding type feeling in the wheel when this noise is made. I lubricated the boot that goes through the firewall, and the spring around the shaft behind the turn signal switch with silicone spray and the noise goes on. It really feels like it is somewhere in the column, but as I said before I do not know anything about these superdutys. I work for chrysler and I have never experienced anything like this on a dodge truck.
Its not the best but here is a video, little grinding noise that I am speaking of is most noticeable when camera angle changes to the side of the column, just before door buzzer makes noise : Grind steering - YouTube .....
.I just changed out all the steering linkages due to a lot of slop and worn out tie rod ends. This problem existed before I changed them but I thought for sure changing the linkages would fix it. When I brake hard my front tires wobble very bad. I haven't ever experienced the death wobble that is common in these trucks, but the symptoms seem the same, its just only when I brake hard. I can look at my front left tire while braking hard and see it wobbling. The wheel bearings and ball joints only have about 15k miles on them. I can't tell if the front wheels are moving independent of each other back and forth, or if they are both shaking back and forth together. What might cause this? it's a super uneasy feeling when it happens, especially because whenever you are braking hard there is usually a reason.
View 14 RepliesI'm working on an 05 with a 5.4. I got it with a bad valvetrain noise on the PS, which ended up being a bad cam, and one bad rocker. I changed the bad rocker and any others that showed any wear, the cam, and all 12 lifters on that head.
The truck starts, idles, runs, and drives fine; identical to my own 05. But if I get on it, it has a dead spot around 3-4k rpm, then picks right up again. After a while, I get the p0012 (Variable camshaft timing over-retarded bank 1). After I get it pissed off, the idle gets rough as well and bogs down.
Now I know the cam went it correctly. I used the wedge tool so the phaser never left the timing chain. I marked the chain as well just to be safe, and the phaser only goes on the cam in one position. Also, it idles too nicely, and runs fine under normal acceleration.
Tonight I swapped the VCT solenoids from one side to the other. It took a lot longer to get the code, but finally came up as a freeze frame dtc, and on Bank 1 again, so it's not the solenoid.
So in my mind, all I can think is that the timing chain jumped (which I don't think is likely due to the good running under normal conditions), or the phaser is bad/sticking on Bank 1. I popped off the oil fill tube and the phaser looks fine physically, so I don't think I banged into it somewhere along the line. I also manually excited the Bank 1 solenoid by grounding the purple wire, and it gives my the same rough idle which I get after the p0012.
It looks like the phaser to me. Another mistake I made was not scanning the truck when I first got it. It came right from a repair shop which diagnosed the camshaft, but I would have at least known if they cleared any codes from it.
I recently had a close encounter with some large rocks on a bad road and broke the power steering cooler. I lost some fluid and pressure as I had no brakes and it steered like a log truck. Replaced the damaged part and added fluid. I was informed by ford technician that air in the lines would make noise but would eventually work itself out. Well the brakes work and steering is getting better but it is noisy with steering and brakes. How long should it take to get the air out? PS the fluid looks foamy now. I should also mention it was making a slight humming noise before the incident with the rock.
View 9 Replies1999 f250 super Duty V10... I am having some problems with switching out of four wheel drive. S, when I flip the switch back to 2 wheel drive everything, seems ok at first, but within a mile or two I will hear this grinding coming from the front that sounds like the gears aren't completely disengaging. The inky thing that prevents this grinding from happening is switching back into fire wheel drive and keeping it there. What might be causing it to not stay disengaged ?
View 1 RepliesWell, I've seen a lot of posts for this but all seem to be geared to 4WD trucks.
I have an 04 250 KR 2WD. I get a sensation of popping/clunking in the LF area when I stop and start like the front axle is moving. Also, at about 50MPH, I get an oscillating hum/vibration in the same area. I've already checked everything and it's all tight, as far as I can tell.
When having the fuel filters changed, I noticed the truck "drooping" on the right side. Coincidence? I have already replaced and repacked the bearing on the LF wheel.
While engine braking I started hearing a squeal under the hood , when I started accelerating it became a little louder, I pulled over and when I rev it up it gets louder and has a little rattle sound, sounds like it coming from the turbo....
View 5 RepliesI have an '01 F250/4X4--How can you tell if your rear drum brakes are bad? Do they make a noise?
View 8 RepliesMy 1999 Ford F350 Dually 4x4 started making a grinding noise every once in a while about 3 weeks ago. Now it is doing it quite often, randomly as I am driving. I do notice the noise stops when I stop the truck, or when I flip the switch to 4x4 and back while driving.
View 1 RepliesSo yesterday I drove across town and back to pick up a piece of lawn equipment. About a 30 min hwy drive each way. On the way there I was in stop and go traffic for about 15mins and noticed toward the end the truck would pull hard to the right when stopping hard and sudden. I figure it was my steering. Been having issues with horrible steering since my last alignment and adjusting the caster. Truck wanders, steering feels loose, will not fully recenter, and feels like it binds then releases toward center position. That's a different issue, I assume. I stop on the way to get some cash and everything is normal. Pick up the equipment and drive back. When coming to a stop the truck will pull towards the right and when I suddenly stop it now pulls to the left.
I get home and get out and smell something burning and hot. Grabbed my IR thermometer and hit both front wheels. Passenger is 150f brake rotor is 175f, drive is 280f brake rotor is 580f. So im assuming my caliper seized up or started to stick. I plan to jack up the front and look at the hubs and calipers. Any other test I can do to narrow down the culprit. I am thinking the hoses may be collapsing especially since I had to disconnect and flip them during the lift. Just weird that the hard pull would switch sides if only the drivers was sticking. Could my bad steering and brake issue be related? I have also noticed my braking power has dropped recently. Brake fluid looks good but power steering smells like brake fluid and is orange.
Pulled the tire when I got home today. A little resistance when spinning by hand, more than there should be. Pulled the caliper and greased the slides. Found out my hub is bad so those are on the short list now. Reassembled and had my wife hit the brakes while I spun the tire. Progressively got harder and harder to spin. Was looking at the brake hoses, how much should they move and ''shrink'' when the brakes are applied? Also if I hit the brakes repeatedly while rolling down my drive way the pedal gets harder and the truck doesn't want to stop and the pedal will slowly push all the way to the floor. Now I am just lost at what is causing my braking issue.
For starters I have a 1999 F-250 5.4l changed all 4 ball joints about 15,000 miles ago. I have been hearing a grinding noise coming from the front end for the last month only when I turn left and at slow speeds. I was servicing the TC so I threw it in 4 wheel to check it and it wouldn't engage until I started moving. When it did engage it was a bad grinding/ clunking sound coming from maybe the differential.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 F350 with a7.3 power stroke, 6 speed manual with manual t case and hubs. I have a bad grinding noise when in 2 wheel drive. Similar sound as if you are trying to shift t case into 4 wheel drive too slowly. The grinding is constant in 2 wheel drive, but if I shift it into 4 wheel drive, the noise completely goes away. I have been driving around in 4 wheel drive (T case only, manual hubs not locked) for the past 2 days. If I shift back into 2 wheel drive, a constant terrible grinding noise returns. What could be wrong, and why it goes away in 4 wheel drive?????
View 3 RepliesNoticed this morning that the truck appears to have a screeching/grinding noise while going straight down the road. If I go a bit of speed and stop the engine and exhaust from revving and making noise and just let it roll I can hear it and hear it better by sticking my head out my window. My engine and 5" straight pipe hide it well while im going though. I think its coming from my front driver side but im not 100% exactly sure. What it could be? I know there are a lot of variables to cover but any ways to check things out? Also! I can hear it slightly while reversing slowly.
View 8 RepliesMy 2006 F350 is giving me grey hairs. I'm trying to figure out what's going on with it. I have been getting an occasional (more often than not) grinding noise from what seems to be the front of my truck. It will do it from a stop, under light, moderate, or heavy acceleration. Doesn't matter. If I let off the throttle momentarily it will stop until it shifts and will grind again through all shift points it seems.
Logic says it's got to be the wheel bearings or locking hubs. I recently did both on both sides to no relief. Because this is an 06 it had a different hub set up then the previous years which I've read a lot of info about (needle bearings). It doesn't make a lick of difference if hubs are locked or on auto. If in 4x4 (ESOF) or 2wd.
As mentioned I replaced both wheel bearings with FORD parts and both locking hubs From FORD as well. (Small fortune). Axle u joints seemed tight. Greased me up but no play.
My dually has started to make a rubbing or grinding noise just about every time I make a turn, left or right. What this could be, truck has 8500 miles on it.
SD Dually
I have a 2016 Superduty. I was sitting still in the drive, engine running and Tx in Park. Following the manual's instructions, I put the Tx in Neutral, turned the 4x4 to 4x4 high and then to 4x4 low. I then pulled the to engage the electric locking rear diff. I put the Tx in Reverse with the foot still on the brake and then as I gradually lifted pressure off the brake pedal (I think) and started creeping, I heard a medium pitched grinding; not so much like spur, helical, or hypoid teeth grinding; more like cog gears. I stopped the truck and disengaged everything. Later in the day while on dirt I put her through her paces proper and all was fine. I guess I'd like to just know, given that this is my first 4x4 with so much electric shifting, what actually happened. If you are pretty sure of what I heard but are puzzled by the sequence, I could have the order of things a bit off as my brain was just about wiped completely free of all memory when I heard that sound so I may have the order of what I actually did, wrong.
View 4 RepliesMy 2012 f250 6.7 has what sounds like a chain spinning when idling when you give it fuel it quiets down.
View 1 RepliesMy 03 F250 7.3 is making a grinding noise when I let my foot off the accelerator and coast in 4x4, I replaced the hubs with new warn premium hubs and it is still making the noise. The noise does not occur when I take it out of 4x4.
View 2 RepliesI have an '06 F-250 that's making a quiet grinding/humming noise from what sounds like the front end. It doesn't seem to be coming from any side in particular, just an omnipresent noise whenever the truck is moving. It's constant with speed, and most noticable between 30-60 KPH.
Truck has about 268,000 KM on it right now, and has been worked pretty hard for whatever that's worth as well.