Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Getting Vibration Driving Down The Road
Feb 13, 2015
01 F350...4R100/V-10/4wd. Sometimes get a vibration driving down the road. First thought of tire out of balance but then the vibration goes away and may not come back for a few days or more. It starts sometimes around 30-40 mph and stays all the way up to around 65 mph. Even slowing down it vibrates or shakes. I can stop and take off again with nothing happening. Would think tires out of balance would do it all the time. And a few times....pulling my 5th wheel...making a right turn out of a parking lot.....it feels like a rumble from the rear.
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2000 F350. 4x4, V10. 153,xxx miles. Here's the story. Whenever I hit a little bump in the road, I get a vibration directly under my feet and in the gas pedal, NOT in the steering. It will go away pretty quick or when I hit another bump. It only happens when the front driveshaft is not spinning. Hubs locked in in 2WD, it doesn't vibrate. Hubs unlocked and in 4x4 High it doesn't vibrate.
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While driving down the road the truck will just cut off. We wait a few mins and start it again can drive a few miles and it cuts off again. we have replaced the ignition coils and it is still doing this. No codes are coming up to get any idea what it can be?
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I have a 2004 Ford f250 6.0. When driving it down the road i will hear a loud spinning sound, sorta like putting a playing card in your bicycle spokes. The sound can be heard until I make a complete stop where at that time the sound stops and a clunk can be felt. After that the truck sounds normal. This also only happens once between starting the truck and turning it off. I took it into the shop and they could not hear the sound, all they said is i need new ball joints.
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A few weeks ago, my employees were driving home one of my work trucks, a 2001 F350 7.3 4x4 Crew w. 130K miles. They were on a straight road in a small town when the steering went completely out. The truck veered into a telephone pole. No one was injured. The truck has major damage to the front passenger's side.
I finally got the truck back to my shop today. It is quite evident what caused the problem. The gear/splined shaft that protrudes from the steering box and is connected to the pitman arm sheared completely off.
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2004 F-250. 6.0 I was driving down the road when the engine dies. It was like I had turned off the key. When I tried to restart it, it was no click, no starter sound, nothing. The glow plug light remained on, even while turning the key over. What could cause this?
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I have a 99' f250 I purchased a few months ago. Here's what happened. Today I was driving down the road and it started to surge. I pulled over and shut the truck off. When I went to start it, the motor turned over slow for a sec and then clicked. When I put a jump pack to it, it fired up. I took it home with the jumper still hooked to it and checked voltage. The alternator was throwing 33.4 volts!! I went to the auto parts store and bought a new battery and alternator. Now the battery shows 11.7 volts steady. The alternator still reads 33.4. Also, if I unplug the positive lead while it's running, the truck shuts off. And one more thing. If the key is off and I reconnect the positive lead, I can hear the fuel rail pressurize. What is going on? I hate electrical gremlins.
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1999 5.4 ... I was just driving down road and truck suddenly wouldnt shift into overdrive/higher gear. pulled to side of road and the motor was revving very high at 2500 rpm. shut truck off and on a few times...kept doing it until finally after a while it went back to normal....
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I have a 2004 6.0 133000 miles will be driving down the road will start to hesitate and looses powers and shuts off. wont start back up but if you wait 10 to 15 minutes will start up and run just fine. wont do it again. Just had new head studs put in new head gasket and egr delete 2 new injectors put in
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Have a 06 f350 just rebuilt the engine. Started up ran it down the road a couple miles and lost low side oil pressure. Got back to the house and will not start again so put a gauge on and it only has 3 lbs after cranking for 10-15 sec. Pulled the balancer and lpop cover and front cover had some deeper scoring then before. No noticeable stuff in the pan or filter. Changed out the front cover and lpop. Still has only about 5 psi.
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I recently checked and changed the one bad ujoint in the rear shaft but I still have a vibration once I hit 35mph but doesnt happen all the time and sometimes goes away while driving.
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2002 F250 4x4 ... There is a bull whirring noise that started about 4 months ago. I attributed it to tire noise. Then this past winter I put the truck into 4 wheel drive and it went ok, however everything started vibrating. First thought was u-joint however none are loose. Then I thought needle bearing, the axle has no play in it at all. So I looked at the drive shaft, it has a sloppy turn, not sure on how much play it should have.
Then you turn it and it then kind of binds up, you can push through that bind then it goes until it hits that spot again. I jacked the truck up and turn the wheels there is no noise. The noise is only when it is driven. Took it to ford and they came back with nothing, they replace the rear pumpkin gasket and cover stated those gears where fine and they inspected the rest, and came back with nothing. Should I just start by replacing front hubs and bearings and see what happens.
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I have a 02' 250 4x4 with 250000 miles on it. While driving between 55 to 65 mph there is a roar and vibration that seems to be coming from the rear. I have about 35% tire tread left and have had the rear tires balanced and it still does it. Having issues with drive shafts unbalanced or rear ends?? I am not sure where to start....
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Not sure if it's a bearing or some kind of U joint. I am just starting to feel a little clunking in the wheel on a rough road. It is not bad but I feel it, is it hard to fix this issue, and what is the correct part I am looking for. Steering Wheel Bearings? This is for a 08 F350 SRW 4X4 KR V10
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All the body bushings have dry rotted away on my 08 Superduty. Are these hard to replace?
I am starting to hear and feel more road noise and rattling when going over bumps or a rough road. U think they would have used polyurethane bushings instead of rubber.
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Noticed this morning that the truck appears to have a screeching/grinding noise while going straight down the road. If I go a bit of speed and stop the engine and exhaust from revving and making noise and just let it roll I can hear it and hear it better by sticking my head out my window. My engine and 5" straight pipe hide it well while im going though. I think its coming from my front driver side but im not 100% exactly sure. What it could be? I know there are a lot of variables to cover but any ways to check things out? Also! I can hear it slightly while reversing slowly.
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2000 Super Duty 2wd. My truck has a lot of slop and wanders down the road. My rotors are also warped and after they get warm they shake like crazy. So I plan on new rotors, bearings, calipers, pads, dust caps and rear rotors, calipers and pads for the rear. I will also be doing factory wheels and new tires and shocks all the way around.
My questions is to rebuild the front suspension and do it to last what all will I need? I see some moog kits but I do not think they are complete for what I need. I only have 126,000 miles with a sound motor and tranny so I feel she is worth it. I know how to work on the truck but the suspension is my weak spot. At 126,000 miles I feel it is a good investment
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It's an 02 f250 4x4 crew with 7.3, 6 in lift and 35 in tires. It has all ways wandered a little bit and I just accepted it. I changed everything in the steering from ball joints, tie rods and drag links less than 2000 miles ago. Everything still seems good and tight. Recently it has gotten a lot worse so I checked again and everything seems to be tight. Where to or what to check next? It's to the point I don't feel safe letting my wife drive it and I don't enjoy driving it.
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Okay, so this is a very intermittent problem but it has been happening more and more lately. When this scenario happens, it is like the rough spot when driving in manually locked 4WD when turning the wheel, but it is where the steering wheel would be to go completely straight and when I try and correct it, it is like the wheel just over corrects when I try and the truck heads the direction the wheel is facing. I'm not sure what this problem is but it is really confusing me. The hubs are both in auto and the ESOF switch is to 2WD if that makes a difference. And it happened today after I made a left turn into the parking lot on campus.
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I purchased the truck from a used car lot about 3 months ago and after driving for a few thousand miles I am feeling a slight wobble after hitting a bump in the road. Here is my truck set up:
- 2011 Ford Lariat F250 4X4 FX4 6.7 ltr
- 67400 miles
- Tires stock and great tread
- Rancho steering stabilizer kit
- Rancho Shocks
- Rear air bags
It does appear one of the rancho stabilizer dampers is leaking slightly. Why would the previous owner install a rancho stabilizer kit? Is it because of the rear air bags?
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My truck is a 2002 F350 CC dually longbox 4x4 7.3 auto that I bought last fall. On the street it is very well behaved although I suspect it is not giving me as much power as it should be, as compared to my previous 95 powerstroke.
Off road, slow crawling, the throttle is very jerky. Under acceleration it is smooth, but if I try holding a low throttle position, the rpm rises and falls. I am certain this is a bad TPS, and may also be contributing to my perceived low power on the street.
I have googled my brains out and it seems there is a cheap replacement TPS for earlier trucks but the 2002 has the 5 wire combined TPS and IVS, which reportedly is not replaceable without replacing the whole pedal assembly. To complicate matters I have the adjustable pedal assembly
So are there any options other than buying a complete pedal assembly from ford? Can I save some bux and retrofit a non-adjustable pedal assembly? I saw a youtube video where a guy put a newer 6.0 pedal assembly in but he was short on specifics about what exactly he gained doing this.
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