My 1999 6.8 has developed a miss at low rpm lugging, so I checked on my code reader and it says the Fuel Volume Regulator Control has open circuit.
Well, I can't find anything on these forums or in my shop manual on a fuel volume regulator. Is my reader just using the wrong name?
My scanner reads P0001 Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit Open. My truck shuts down without warning, runs great otherwise. I've changed 2 grey CPS units and now have the Black IH one installed. What the Fuel Volume Reg.is? Is it the IPR on the HPOP?F250SD 7.3 225,000 miles.
View 10 RepliesWhere to decipher engine codes? I pulled a P0001 Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit Open code .
View 11 RepliesGot a P0001 error , Fuel volume regulator stuck opened....where is the fuel volume regulator is located on a first Gen. Prius?
View 8 RepliesTraveling cross country & got a check engine light telling me "injector control pressure low". Replaced ICP sensor and injector pressure control regulator. Removed old one and installed the new one.
While looking for one of the nuts that attach the glow plug relay in the valley I found a small round part looks like maybe a valve seat. About 1/2" round with maybe a 1/4" four flute spline in the center. Has an o-ring on one end.
Is this something that followed the old ICPR out and fell off the end when It cleared the mounting hole? It looks like the ICPR would bear against this little thing.
Got this code a while back (several hundred miles) but have had no runability problems. I know it's the evap canister but my mechanic tells me it could be a myriad of things and he might spend hours on it and still not be able to resolve it. I plan on driving this truck til it's worn out. I've put 125,000 miles on it in 10 years almost all highway. I should be putting much fewer miles on now, only using it when I NEED a truck which should be less and less, mostly for hauling toys.
I hate to drive this thing another 10+ years with the engine fault light on but my mechanic says that if something serious goes wrong it will start to flash. A couple days ago the "check fuel cap" warning came on, but goes off if I hit,the odometer button. I got a new gas cap at Reilly's but it seems like a real POS compared to OEM, very light, and the check fuel cap warning still comes on.
We just bought and '05 F350 Turbo Diesel, about two days after getting it the check engine light came on. We had the dealer check it since the mechanic wasn't in and it came up as "Fuel Level Sensor" . My husband can't remember the exact code. We have been told it's no big deal but we want it fixed and the engine light to go off. The dealer is giving us the runaround, or at least I think so.
View 14 RepliesThe truck belongs to a very good customer of mine and is a 05 f350sd 6.0 td with 5r110 torqshift tranny. The vehicle presents with these symptoms and codes....
-there is a delay from p to r and its intermittent, sometimes it will be in a weak reverse where it wont creep unless you give it some gas, sometimes it will hit reverse hard after this. sometimes it bangs reverse
-there is a delay into drive intermittently with the same symptoms as reverse where sometimes it bangs and sometimes it will take a little throttle to get it moving
-once the trans is hot (operating temperature) it has trouble downshifting. my solus tells me sometimes it tries to start off in 3 or 5 then sometimes it will bang back down into first and almost chirp tire with little throttle input
-tow haul light will flash after several miles and then it only has 1-2-3-4 no 5-6. then the starting off symptoms get worse
-throws codes for
p0766 shift sol d performance/stuck
p2701 friction element b apply time range/performance
p2703 friction element d apply time range/performance
p0700 trans control system fault.
So far the ideas i have are as follows
replace solenoid D
direct clutch replacement and seals for corresponding drum
torque converter replacement and pump replacement
harness rub through between pcm and transmission
The truck has had similar issues a year ago. Upon testing line pressure i found it was out of spec and replaced the epc. (electronic pressure control solenoid) and this cleared most of it up . I have had the pan down many times and the fluid has not been burnt and there is little debris in the pan. nothing i would consider beyond normal wear. Tomorrow I will be dropping the pan again to inspect the magnet and fluid as well as the condition of the harness. i will post my findings at that time. I am hoping between now and then some of you will be able to point out a few possibilities to get me on the right track.
My 2009 F250 5.4 was throwing code P0442 - minor EVAP control system leak.
The first time it happened, the guy at the parts store checked it out, reset it, and said if it comes back, try replacing the gas cap.
The second time it happened, same thing.
I bought a Stant cap at my local parts shop, and had them reset it again. I don't like the Stant cap since it does not fit the retainer correctly, but it sealed fine.
However, the same code came back.
It took a smoke test to identify a leak from the vent tube on top of the fuel tank. The tube was replaced today.
If the code stays gone for a few hundred miles, I'm going to switch back to the original gas cap. I want to make sure the leak is gone before I change anything.
I have a 2006 f-350 6.0 and i went to fill up my truck with diesel. After that the truck did not start. Currently has the code p2285 - injector control pressure sensor circuit low. I tried disconnecting sensor, still no start.
I have the torque pro app and another 6.0 that I use for comparison. Check power at ficm 48 volt, flp 11.5v, FVP 11.5v. Hpop while cranking shows 1400 psi. removed oil filter and see low pressure oil ok, fills up reservoir. ipr at crank about 65%. fuel filter full of fuel.
Replaced the dummy plug on passenger side because originally hpop was very low psi 12. after replacement it went up to 1400 on cranking. What should I be looking at next, should I be removing ipr? should i be looking at crank sensor or cam sensor? Just installed 2 new batteries also because my dad kept cranking the truck until it died.
Checked to make sure fuel cut off relay not triggered, Ok. The truck has been having long cranks before it died. Also right now the injector cycling is 10 seconds long while on my other 6.0 it is about 4.
I can not hear the radio in my 2011 F350 XLT. I don't know what radio options there were for the XLT but mine has a Sync USB port, Bluetooth, steering wheel controls, CD player but it does not have a big display or touchscreen or anything like that.
When I try to adjust the volume with either the steering wheel or the radio dial, the indicator shows the volume is at half but the volume will not go up or down. I can hear nothing. All other buttons appear to work.
Have Inaccidentally gotten into some more that doesn't allow it to play any sound or adjust volume or is something just flat out wrong?
My 2004 F250 has been having issues with the radio. Its been randomly changing stations and volume. I think its due to moisture in the dash. Its stops when I run the heater thru the dash vents.
View 1 Replies I have a 2014 ford F350. Was flood damages, all fixed and running great except a couple of small problems. One is the volume is restricted to 49%.
Supposedly you can turn off mykey in settings with admin key inserted. I have 3 keys, tried them all no my key option.
I have IDS so erased all keys, reprogrammed them, still no mykey option. I read that all newly programmed keys are admin by default, is that correct? if so, how to fix this?
I also have a cloned key programmer, tried that erased all keys, made new ones, still no mykey option in cluster settings. its a new cluster from ford, programmed on installation.
I have an Accel Gen vll EFI setup on a 59AB and plan on using a pressure regulator but it has a vacuum inlet fitting. I'm assuming it's to allow for more pressure on acceleration. When the vacum drops more fuel will be allowed into the fuel rail is my guess.
View 3 RepliesI had my fuel filters changed at the dealership today on my '15, and then I bought fuel and headed home (70 miles). About half way home I got a "Low Fuel Pressure" message and a little while after that "Reduced Engine Power" along with the check engine light.
I pulled over to see if they did something like leave the drain open, thinking it might be sucking air. Of course it was dark and I could not see anything. However I did hear a buzzing sound and could feel a vibration when I touched the fuel line going into the top of engine filter.
While it is possible I got bad fuel, I suspect they did something wrong installing the filters. Even after cycling the fuel pump multiple times they had a hard time getting it started afterwards; I think they finally disconnected the top fuel line to bleed the air out.
I continued home and made it, but not sure what to do now; its 70 miles back to the dealer.
What is the most likely problem? Improper fuel filter installation or bad fuel?
Should I pull the filters in the morning see if there is something obvious like an out-of-place gasket? If so, top or bottom filter?
Is this a tow truck affair or should I drive 70 miles back to the dealer?
What the heck is the buzzing sound?
02 E450 Super Duty V10, C class a motorhome, 29000 miles. Cruise stopped working a month or so back. I searched this forum and managed to fix it with the info provided. It turned out to be the pressure switch on the master cylinder, the recall had been done. I replaced the pressure switch and the harness with an aftermarket one from the local auto parts store. It worked well for about 200 miles, it knocked off again on our road trip last week. It was working on the road and we stopped for breakfast and it didn't come on again, no light in the dash or anything.
When I ran the internal diagnostics on the first repair all the lights would flash when the buttons were pressed and the servo would cycle through at the end of the test as it should, based on the diagnostic instructions. This time when I run the diagnostic test the light will flash when I first turn the switch on (holding the off button down) and when I push the on the button but will not flash when I press the other 3 buttons.
I have not been able to find a wiring diagram for this particular truck, I've found 6 or so but none of them match my fuse boxes under the hood and dash.
I have no trouble lights on in the dash CEL or ABS. I'm at a loss what direction to take from here.
2014 f250 6.2........today on my way home from work I noticed my traction control symbol was on. It didn't say off under it like it does when you turn it off. About five miles down the road it was gone. What might of caused this?
Another thing I've been wondering is whats up with the carpeted inner fender wells. How long has ford been doing that and how well do they hold up?
I have a newer 2012 f250 that i souls like to disable cruise control on, can this be done with auto ingenuity, our will the dealer have to do it with ids?
View 3 RepliesNew problem with my 99 f-250 superduty supercab 4x4. Cruise control does not work. Checked all fuses and all are good. No cruise light or speed cont light . Where do I start? What do I need to look for? Where do I look?
View 4 RepliesI've got a '08 F250 XLT that the cruise control has become intermittent. It works most of the time but at times it will "go out to lunch" and not do anything. I've taken the controls from the wheel and didn't see any gummed up coke spills or anything there. It may not be anything but twice when it failed while on a trip I pulled over and shut the truck down. Started it up and the cruise would go back to working. Once I did this and it went back to working only to shut off in about 2 seconds but I was able to engage it again and it kept working. When it stops working there is no green indicator on the dash either.
View 9 RepliesAbout 6 months ago I bought a 2003 F350 King Ranch to tow my toy hauler. Very happy so far. The one complaint I have is this...
The design of the heater / AC control module for this year of truck does not have a separate AC switch. There is not a separate button to turn the AC on and off and with a separate switch to choose which vent to blow the air through. For this year, I think 99-04, the vent selector switch must be turned all the way to the left and there are two AC Options... AC and Max AC. For both of these options the AC only blows through the dash vents.
Is there anyway to upgrade the in-dash unit to allow you to turn on and off the AC compressor while independently selecting, floor, foor / vent, floor / defrost, vent / defrost, etc... for the vents that the AC blows through?
I live in CA and it can get HOT... I would really like to blow the AC through the floor vents and / or the floor vents and the dash at the same time to provide more even cooling throughout the truck. Also, blowing through the floor vents would provide better cooling to the back seats.