Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Fuel Leak Under Hood?
Dec 6, 2014
I noticed a raw fuel smell today while driving. I came right back home & found fuel spread all over the under carriage. I popped the hood & found the fuel bowl and surrounding area wet as well as fuel puddled up in the valley.
Before I tear into things I'd like to get input about common causes. I've read that the separator valve gets it's o-rings eaten up by modern fuel. Could this possibly be it? If so are there special kits that deal with the low sulfur & biodeisel?
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2004.5 F250 SD XLT 4dr 6.0L
CAI, 4" Straight exhaust
EGR Delete, 6.4 Injector pump
Coolant filtration system.
New injectors al around
New ICP, New IPR, New Oil Cooler.
Recently Bulletproofed on ARP head studs, and the stock Head gasket,
New injector harness and FICM from DieselTech Ron
SCT tuner, running innovative diesel tunes. EGT Sensor
37x13.5r18 nitto trail grapplers
Truck started bucking and stalling when warm and over 60mph. No codes.
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I'm just a shade tree mechanic try to diagnose a hot crank no start condition on my 2006 F-350 6.0 that I purchased second hand about six months ago. I first took it to a diesel shop to have them fix it and the mechanic told me that the stand pipes and dummy plugs needed changing out but couldn't tell me 100% if that would fix the hot no start problem.. I have been reading a lot about this problem and it seems that the snap to connect fitting on the HPOP is the most common problem on these trucks. It seemed easy enough to do so I went after it only to find it was already replaced with the updated part.
I went ahead and changed it anyway but it obviously didn't work. So today I pressurized the system through the ICP port with my small harbor freight compressor up to 80 psi and forced the IPR valve closed with 12v. I then listened for a leak in the passenger side valve cover with a hose stuck in the oil fill cap, the driver side cover from some drain hole under the air filter housing and in the oil filter housing. I could hear a mild hissing from the driver side and the oil filter housing but it was clearly louder from the oil fill on the passenger side. This leads me to believe I have a top seal leak from one of the injectors on the passenger side, but not 100% sure. Should I be hearing anything at all from the driver side and from the oil filter housing if its a bad seal in the passenger side?
Another problem I just found out I have seems like maybe fuel in the oil. I done a oil change this week after 3500 miles since last change and drained out five gallons of oil!! The oil seemed really thin. My coolant level is still good so the only thing I can think of is fuel dilution. Could this possibly be the same o ring or injector that is causing my hpo leak or something else? Will a bubble or balloon test diagnose this?
I bought a cheap OBD2 reader that works on my Ipad with a app called Dashcommand so I can see what codes were stored. The codes are...
P0401- Exhaust Gas Recirculation A Flow Insufficient Detected (EGR has been deleted)
P0528-Fan Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0670-Glow Plug Control Circuit/Open
P0683-Glow Plug Control Module to PCM Communication Circuit
P2290-Injection Control Pressure Too Low
So far my thoughts are to replace the injector and nipple cup seals to take care of the hpo leak. Once I have the valve cover off, clean the injectors real good and cycle the fuel pump with turning the key on and inspect the injectors for a fuel leak. Is there a better way than this?
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New to me 2003 F250 Super Cab 6.8 V10. Great condition inside and out. 68,000 miles. Began smelling fuel (gas) a few days after driving it 250 miles from purchase location. Traced leak down to the top of the gas tank. Staining was visible around the rear vent. Applied about 5 psi to the tank and sprayed soap around until I saw bubbles coming from a hairline crack at the rear vent connection. Its where the fitting for the hose comes out of the tank.
My first choice would be to hot weld the crack. I'm not very comfortable with the idea of a heat source near a gas tank. I'm not sure, but the heat from the plastic welder might be hot enough to ignite fumes? Second option is to try some industrial 2 part epoxy (PIG) and seal it with that. Is there pressure inside the tank, and if so how much? Can try this fix with epoxy or JB Weld?
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2015 with a 6.2 and 1200 miles. I have a whistle coming from under the hood. I didn't here it at first with the windows up and AC on but now that its cooler I have the windows open. I only here it at 2000 RPM or under while accelerating. Doesn't seem to matter how hard I am on the pedal or how heavy the load.
Dealer is going to have to fix it but would like to get a heads up for what it could be.
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While engine braking I started hearing a squeal under the hood , when I started accelerating it became a little louder, I pulled over and when I rev it up it gets louder and has a little rattle sound, sounds like it coming from the turbo....
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5.4L f250 is dead. Went through a small mud hole and the he truck just died. The muddy h20 was about 1/2 way up on my tires. After getting pulled out I checked the air filter and its dry. I did notice that the insulation on the hood was wet towards the back half of the engine. Guess maybe the fan sprayed it up there. Tried starter fluid with no luck. Just turns over. Also checked the fuel reset and its normal. Where should I start.
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So it was -10 last night didn't have my truck plugged in fired it up this morning took a few cranks but started heard a wine under the hood figured it was cold let it warm up for a half hour went to a buddy's for a party left a few hours later driving home truck was up to temp running fine then I thought I heard a wine again turned my music off rolled my windows down and it sounded like a Cummings lopping shaking like crazy lost power couldn't make it up a hill and bogged out and died look under it and has some oil on the axle tube called for a tow truck ten time no answers so I tried to fire up again and stared and ran fine made it home no problems. My question is is it a fuel issue I use anti gel every fill up but is it still possible maybe water? Or could it be my hpop it hasn't thrown any codes or lights all pressures and gauges read fine. Also my rear main leaks along with oil pan was it just some water running through or should I be worried...
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I have searched and tried everything that was suggested to open the hood on my 2000 and nothing works. When looking form the front you can see the hood release operate, but nothing happens. What part of the release do I need to operate to get the hood to open?
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Battery tested good, tried jumping it as well with cables and with portable pack.
I hear two clicks under the hood (NOT a continuous type click you hear when the battery is dead). The first seems to be up near the passenger fender well when the key is turn to the start position, the second click seems to be down under the motor near the passenger side (near the starter I assume, couldn't tell very well) when the key is RELEASED from the start position. The motor doesn't budge, I don't see any belts flinch or pulleys move to indicate that the starter is engaging. I don't hear anything that sounds like a starter engaging to me.
If not, where the starter solenoid is on this thing? is it separate like the other older ford's I've owned or is it now on the starter? Is there any fuse-able links that could cause this? Wiring diagram? Is there a way to jump the solenoid like in the old school days (e.g. with a screwdriver or wrench)? would like to get this home without towing it or fixing what is really wrong with it in the parking lot.
It's in negative to single digit temps here in Indy now, I fired it up in the morning in negative temps, drove it work. Came out to go home, and now this. So something happened between this morning and now and it's not the battery.
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I have a 2000 Ford F-350 V10 Triton that is currently not running. It all started when I was going to work at 7:00am it just shut off in the middle of the road. I had someone to take out of the road and found out one of the fuses had blown. It was replaced and not even a mile down the road it died again, luckily next to Orielly's. They came out and did a test and found out it was coil 10. I purchased and installed a new one and went down the road only to have it die again. I replaced the fuse again, and went back to Oriellys and just as I was backing into the parking spot it died, this time smoke coming from under the hood. The brand new coil had caught on fire but I extinguished the flame and got the coil unplugged before any damage happened. Replaced the same coil and it ran fine until I got home, let it idle and it was fine. Then, two days later I started it and it died, again smoke coming from under the hood but no flames or fire. Now cylinder 10 does not fire any more. What the cause is?
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I got to replace mine because the hood won't stay up on it's own and is heavy to lift. I was wondering if these things fail often. Mine is an '08.
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03 F250. 5.4 2v ... I purchased it a month ago.
Squeak under the hood. It appeared to squeak in relation to the movement of the tensioner......simple right? Replaced Tensioner and Belt..... Still squeaking.
AC not working at all. Compressor never kicking on.....replaced compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube. AC works now!.....squeak still there....
Notice fan wobbling.....shut truck off.....fan clutch shot... replaced....STILL SQUEAKING!!
Obvious answer....sound still on that side of the engine....Idler pulley....I just replaced it and the dang truck is still squeaking!!!!!!!!!
All that's left is the harmonic balancer, alternator, and power steering pump.......What could it be?
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Twice I open the hood of my SD and I see water pooled up around the intake manifold on my 2001 F250 5.4. This happen when we have heavy rain. My truck is sitting on my drive way that has some angle to it. When it rains, all the water from the roof flows down the windshield and somehow the water is getting into the engine bay.
I cleaned out all the leaves and made sure the rubber molding were in place near the firewall, but it happen again last night. Is there something wrong with my truck to keep the water out. I suppose I could turn the truck around so that the rain will flow from the roof to the bed. But, I like parking my truck the way I park it.
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I have a 2006 F-250 5.4L (6spd manual). I would like to add a second battery. It would be a purely auxiliary battery for radio use, and would be connected to a battery isolator. It would likely be a 33AH SLA, and starting capabilities are not required.
Any clean way to mount a second battery under the hood? On the driver's side, directly above the wheel well, there is an adequate amount of room for a second battery, and there are even tapped holes that seem to have identical spacing to the ones for the factory battery tray.
This leads me to believe that some version of this truck is offered with a second battery (the Powerstroke, maybe?). The local Ford stealership was all but useless, which is pretty standard. They have a solid reputation of not giving a crap about you unless you want to purchase a brand new vehicle with dealership financing.
What is the part number for a second, driver's side battery tray? I really am NOT interested in any kind of solution under than under the hood (no frame rails, or relocation to the bed).
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The dome light/under hood light keeps blowing the fuse. I can't tear the entire interior out to try and chase down the short. Just wondering if any common area this circuit shorts out!
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I have a 2004 Ford F250 Turbo Diesel, egr delete, headstuds, intake, dual stacks, etc and when i turn my wheel a loud whining noise comes from under the hood, I noticed it put tension in my brakes. When I accelerate it gets louder and when i let off the gas it goes away... i checked my fluid in my steering pump and it was low so i put some more in and the next day it was all sitting under neath the truck.... any quick fix or do i need to replace the whole pump?
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So today I was backing up my 11000# fifth wheel at the campground when at 1500-2000 rpm I hear this awful shrieking sound coming from under the hood. I heard it the whole time while backing up and under a load. I never heard it once going forward. So when I get home I put it in reverse and hold the brakes and again I hear this shrieking sound coming from under the hood I get it up to 1500 rpms or so not moving just holding it and the more throttle i apply the louder the shrieking gets.
Now remember the truck is not moving its just spooled up, holding the brakes. I think that maybe something is wrong with the turbo, but I dont want to jump to conclusions. This truck is a 2001 F350 SRW CC LB 7.3 161,000 2 owner miles, 4 inch turbo back FLO PRO Straight pipe, and gauges everything else stock. What is moving that is making this horrible sound.
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2000 Excursion 4x4 v10 auto. Pulling the boat last weekend up the driveway from the lake and the truck started smoking under the hood at the top of the drive. Jump out and saw a fire under the pass floorboard. Go the hose and put it out in 30 sec. Thought i blew a trans line and it sprayed on the cat. Took it to the shop and he said lines are good it's not leaking. He said it is possible that the trans over heated and built up pressure and blew it out past the front seal.? What happened or how to prevent it from happening again?
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2002 F250 SD 5.4 V8 here....cruise control doesn't work!!
-I've checked fuses 27 and 34. Good.
-I've done the self test. All lights flash with no codes given.
-I've replaced the pressure switch at the end of the brake manifold. All good.
-Horn works.
-No ABS lights or check engine lights on.
When I press the ON then SET...the guage illuminates on the dash and there's a slight 'thump' from what seems to be the area of the cruise control box under the hood (I'm driving so I'm assuming it's it).
Am I missing something here?? Can it be anything other than the box itself?
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I have a 2006 F250 XLT 6.0 diesel. I bought last month to haul my fifth wheel. Looking for the wiring diagram for the "under hood lamp". I have no power at the connector of the under hood lamp. I have checked all the fuses in both locations (battery box and central junction box) and did not find a blown fuse. The under hood lamp is not listed on the the central junction box fuse and relay posting in the owner manual. Is it controlled by something else?
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