Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Frozen Door Seals Constantly?
Mar 7, 2015
Any good remedy for constantly freezing door seals? I have a 06 extended cab and the rubber seal between the 2 doors makes an excellent "lock" when water freezes and all but welds the doors together. I damn near broke the paddle handle trying to pull on it. I wasn't keen on dumping water on the top of the seal since the glass is so cold and the water doesn't seem to penetrate anyway. I was thinking of wiping the seals heavily with anti-freeze? or motor oil? No, a garage is not an option.
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2000 f350 7.3 Door locks unlock and lock constantly. Wait to start light and 4x4 lights don't come on. Gauges stopped working and clicking behind dash.
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Well, I am getting a vibration In 4x4 99 f250 sd, pinion seals leaking and it has a little bit of movement. I have done a pinion bearing in a crown vic I had before. But not a dana 50. What am I in for, I searched but couldn't find a step by step , how long does it take a back yard guy.
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Why am I getting oil seeping out around these boots? Is my turbo seals going bad?
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I'm in the process of changing oil seals on my dually front end. Do I need to worry about backlash settings? I see the gears are attached with solid brackets, which I assume, as just torque to spec and not worry about backlash. What is the torque spec for the four bolts holding the gears/yoke in place?
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I have a 03 super duty 3/4 with 45000 miles. I have squeaking sound coming from the front end. My local ford dealer says ford has been replacing those front axle seals but the noise comes back.They said the fix is to keep a dab of grease on them of which I.m doing.That does take care of it for awhile but the squeaking does come back until I put a dab of grease back on them.
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My 2006 F350 has a nasty air leak/whistle coming from the rear power sliding window, unfortunately I found the one of the vertical seals laying in the cab. Looking for some insight on if there is a replacement seal kit, where I can find one and how difficult is it to install?
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I have a 2008 F-450 Lariat 6.4 4x4. I recently started noticing the front driver side wheel (best I can tell) wheel makes a noise as though it's binding uo when turning either direction, and I can feel it as well. 4wd is not activated and the hubs are in auto. When the front end is off the ground, I rotated the wheels and they spun independently unless the hubs were locked. I noticed what appear to be seals on both the driver and passenger side hanging loose (see pics). What this might be? I recently used the 4wd when we visited White Sands National Monument while pulling a 5th wheel RV.
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-10'C this mornin and my driver side windshield sprayer is frozen solid. After 10 mins I can see the snow and ice melt around it but still won't spray. This is typical of cars with too much space between engine and hood.
Gonna have to get out the extension and hairdryer tonight. Maybe find some kind of portable mini dryer that works off my 12v to 120v converter as a long term solution.
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I have a 2013 F250 which has both the Manual and auto locking hub feature. I tried to plow my driveway this morning and after making one pass I put the truck in reverse and could not back up my steep driveway. The truck is showing locked in 4x4 on the dash, the 4x4 control is in high lock but the front wheels will not turn. It has been very cold here lately (-30) and I'm wondering if the vacuum lines for the auto locking hubs have frozen. I have switched the control out of 4x4 and back in several times, and it does lock in again, but as soon as I put the truck into reverse, they unlock again. The hubs are covered with ice and snow right now so I have not yet tried to manually lock them.
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I have a '01 F250 with a frozen u-joint in the driver side front axle. My question is can I put it together without the axle and drive it?
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My abs light is constantly on, is it a sensor?
2008 F250, 5.4 l, 4wd .....
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I have a 2007 Ford E450 Superduty Box truck with a V10 and 70,000 miles. For the 6 years I have owned it, the AC has always been ice cold. This summer it will not blow cold under any driving situation.
When the AC is on AC, AC max, or defrost, the compressor clutch constantly engages for 1.5 seconds then disengages for 5 seconds. I bought a can of refrigerant and added only about 1/4 of it to reach proper psi for the current temperature.
If I remove either the high or low pressure switch clips, the compressor stops engaging. Is it possible that one of the switches has failed in that it is activating at an incorrect pressure? Unfortunately our local Ford dealer here is notoriously devious and while they may fix the problem, I will probably have an entirely new system by the time they are done.
I've ruled out coolant, air gap does not seem to apply and both hi and low pressure switches are active. What am I missing?
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I have been running SRL and love how it woke the truck up, however it seems like it hunts around a bit for the right gear sometimes and feels like it is constantly locking unlocking TC. I recently switched to 8K tow because I am going to be pulling a horse trailer soon and wanted to see how it felt first and it drives way better. I miss the extra getup and go of the SRL but it shifts way better and doesn't hunt around. Is there some adjustment on SCT I can do that would fix this issue with SRL tune?
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The other day I was checking out my parking aids (they kept saying something was behind me when there was nothing there) and the horn just started blowing by itself, constant on until I disconnected the batteries. Been a few days and just got back to working on it, checked the horn switch in the airbag and it is functioning fine. Hooked the batteries back up, no horn, but after a couple of minutes I start getting little honks out of it, then locked on again. Where I should go from here? Truck was parked, switch off, engine off today when I hooked the batteries up. Never started it or turned the key on.
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What will make a loud blower sound cycle on and off constantly when towing if i turn the ac off it stops....
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the driver/rear suicide door combo is rubbing at the top and thus rattling on bumps. Looks to me like it is actually from the rear door as the gap in the very back is very wide at the top. the driver door gaps look normal along the front. Before I dig into this I wanted to check and find out the best way to approach. Is there an adjustment inside the hinge? the bolts on the jam look solid and have never been adjusted. Perhaps there is a hinge pin in there?
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Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
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So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.
Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?
I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?
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It's been happening the last week or so, on and off. I'll open the door and close it and the cab light won't go off and the red DOOR AJAR light on the dash won't go off. The last two times it went off after about a minute. Now I don't care about it in the daytime, but at night it's a real pain. How do these sensors work? I see the little plastic lever on the rear door (ext. cab), but it can happen when I open just one of the doors. Is there a centralized receiver for both the door sensors?
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My outside, driver side front door handle is busted. I was about to order a new one from Rock Auto, and came across this-
DORMAN Part # 80645 {#7C3Z3622405APPTM} Front Left; Paint To Match
DORMAN Part # 79306 {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Front Left; Black; Textured Finish; From 3/15/99
What is the difference here? Is something different on the early 99's?
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