Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Front End Had Noise / Standard Sway Bar Link Knock
Jan 4, 2014
2004 F-250 140k 4wd 6.0. Front end had noise, standard sway bar link knock. I disconnected the sway bar on the drivers side and drove it around. Smooth and noise free. Determined new links were needed, Installed new links and now even more noise. Disconnect them and no noise again. What am i missing? Bushings look good on the axle. Is the pressure from the sway bar putting strain on another wore part?
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This is my sway bar and drag link look like with the wheel turned all the way to the right. When I took these pictures, I had put the right tire on the curb too see what it was going too look like. However. Even with all wheels on level ground. It still is running very close. When the steering is straight, I have maybe 1" to 1.5" clearance between the 2. My truck does have a readylift 2.5" level kit on it. Running like this stock or leveled? Should I look around for longer sway bar links?
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We all know the sway bar end link problems in the early superdutys. Several years ago I installed energy suspension bushings and thought the problems were gone. Lately it started clunking again. I tightened the bolts with a breaker bar and it worked. but now it making noise again. I purchased a set of mevotech end links. Upon installation I found the problem.
Over the years of clunking the bolt hole on the upper driver side is no longer round. It has become oval shaped. I read a couple threads on here about this problem. I can't drill them out as the mevotechs have studs not bolts. Can I get the mounting bracket that bolts to the frame. Its a triangle shaped piece that the end link stud goes through. I have tried searching for it online to no avail. Whats it called?
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Working on my 2000 Excursion, 7.3, 4x4. Replacing front sway bar link arms and sway bar bushings. I got the driver side arm and the sway bar bushings done and have run into a problem removing the passenger side link arm. When removing the top connection bolt there's not enough clearance when extracting. I've gotten it loose, but as I go to pull it off, it butts up against the bell housing with about an inch of bolt left to clear the frame.
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I have a 2004 F250 Lariat Crew Cab FX4 6-3/4' bed.
What is the procedure to remove the Driver's side Rear Sway Bar Link upper bolt? - the link attaches to the frame. The nut is on the inside of the frame with about 1/3" to 2/3" clearance between the frame and the fuel tank. Of course, the frame's "C" shape faces towards the inside.
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I have a noise with my new (2.6k miles) 2000 Diesel F250 Crew Cab. When I make low speed, right turns while crossing any type of depression in the road I hear a loud knock as if the left shock is bottoming out. There's an intersection near my house with runoff depressions across the road, I almost always hear the noise when making that turn. I've occasionally heard it coming from the right side when making a left turn.
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Installing the Hellwig 1 1/4 inch Front Sway Bar on their 11 and up F250 or F350 SRW Pickup?
My 2012 F350 Super Cab LWB XLT 6.7L seems to have quite a bit of sway in the front end. This is especially true moving slowly such as turning into service stations or other off angle turns. The truck only has the FORD OEM puny Rear Anti Sway Bar but the front seems to accentuate sway. The Truck has Rancho 9000XL Shocks, Timbren Enhanced Suspension System as well as Torklift Quick Release Stable Loads in the rear.
The Truck I have is not overloaded but it does carry an Eagle Cap 950 Camper pretty much full time. True the Campers now days are tall so some sway is expected. I just want to reduce the apparent front end sway and wonder if others have used the Hellwig Sway Bar in the front.
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Chasing a noise in the front, seems to be more on the passenger side, and I think I have it narrowed down to the link ends or subframe. I have ST coil overs, came on the car, and already did the 034 mounts and bearings to solve another noise but this one is different. The links are original and I saw some performance ones that are a bit shorter for a slightly lowered car. Should it have shorter ones due to the coil overs?
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I have a 06 F250 with a 5.4L truck has 50k on it. I have been reading many articles on the issues with can phaser/cam tensions/cam chain issues. I have noticed that when I start the truck a get a knocking noise that goes away with in 5 sec of the truck starting. I have been noticing lateley if I am sitting still at a light and go to give it gas for a short period I get a sound that sounds like a cam chain slap for a split second as the truck starts to move it goes away. I had a friend of mine stand outside the truck and put in gear and power brake it and as it decelerates you hear a quick cam chain slap. I use Catrol 5-20w standard oil and motor craft oil filter. I purchased the truck with #6k on it 3 years ago I have replaced the leaking exhaust manifold with Gibson stainless unit and have confirmed they are not leaking again. I have heard that the hydrolic cam tensioners sometimes get clogged and people have run a oil additive to clean out clog.
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I have a 2002 F350 4x4 CC 7.3 i am wanting to change the sway bar bushings front and rear to poly and I want greasable bushings to avoid the squeaking that you get with these bushings alot of the time. I would like to change the end links to poly too i realize these wont be greaseable. What was the outcome and where did you buy the bushings. What is the size of the front and rear sway bars and the length of the end links??
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I'm on my second set of links. The replacement were Dorman 3 years ago. They are rattling again. Do I just replace them again? I forgot to add, the bushings were replaced this year.
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What are the specs for the sway bar bushings that go in the retaining bracket for a 2003 ford f250? went to advanced auto last night to get some got mine off my truck and the one they gave me was a little too small for my sway bar and the retaining bracket.
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I have a friend with an 01 f250 super duty who needs to replace sway bar bushings.
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I have a question about my 2001 Ford F250 and the scary road sway I experience on the highway.
I thought it was the garbage and nearly bald tires and the fact that the fronts were bigger than the back, (Previous Owner). I went and got new E rated 265's from Discount Tire.
It actually made the swat feel worse. I thought maybe the tire guys inflated them all to 80 PSI as the sidewalls indicated. I check today and found that they went with the recommended PSI on the door sticker. 60 Front and 80 rear. But this is for the Tire size listed on the sticker.
After the tires cooled here at home I increased the PSI to 80 all the way around. I am having trouble finding my specific problem even though there is a lot of talk in many forums about this issue.
If this does not work should I try lower PSI in the rears and leave the front at 80? Should I try a front steering stabilizer shock? I did tighten up the steering box and took the minor slop out of it, Not is just makes it respond to the sway correction quicker.
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I was going to add a rear sway bar to make the truck more stable after lifting it but then I thought when I eventually do a cummins swap, with all the torque and the tall block i have in the back ill get a lot of axle wrap so i will need traction bars. So what is the difference between them? will a rear sway bar stop axle wrap as well as body roll? Also will traction bars stop axle wrap and decrease body roll? I just don't want to get a sway bar now and then need traction bars and have to get rid of the sway bar.
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Code was showing for the knock and climbed under the truck and checked to see if it was plugged in grabbed the wire and to my surprise the wire kept coming and so did a piece of the knock sensor, is this going to affect my truck badly?? worst case?? 97 f250 4.6 standard
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My V10 was knocking when accelerating under 2000 rpm; rain and moisture made the problem worse. I discovered that the 2-part wiper cowl under the windshield allowed water to leak into the engine compartment and onto the throttle body, which then dripped onto the left side of the engine. This caused the spark plugs to rust and the 3 back ignition coils (coil on plug) on the driver's side to crack and fail. This caused a horrible misfire/knock that was worst under 2000 rpm especially in high gear and when the environment was wet. I fixed the misfire and cowling leak. Has not returned. I caulked the cowl and changed all my spark plugs and ignition coils.
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I have a 2000 F250SD 4x4 that has developed a nasty front end noise. I originally thought it was a suspension issue (seems like bumps in the road cause the noise but not always, turning does not cause it) but everything seems good. Steering is tight and there is no 3 and 9 oclock movement. Ball joints also seem good with no 12 and 6 movement. I have jumped up and down of the front bumper and cant recreate the noise either, removed the sway bar and the noise is still there. The only strange thing I notice was that with the truck in 2wheeldrive and the hubs unlocked I can turn the front drive shaft and the drive's side axle spins but the passenger side only turns intermittently. I'm sure this isn't right so I'm looking for diagnosing the cause. Since none of these parts should be moving while driving in 2wheeldrive could this also be the cause of the noise?
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1999 f250 super Duty V10... I am having some problems with switching out of four wheel drive. S, when I flip the switch back to 2 wheel drive everything, seems ok at first, but within a mile or two I will hear this grinding coming from the front that sounds like the gears aren't completely disengaging. The inky thing that prevents this grinding from happening is switching back into fire wheel drive and keeping it there. What might be causing it to not stay disengaged ?
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I drive a 2014 F350 Platinum SRW. No matter how fast i go, there is always a rubbing noise & i can hear it right outside my front window. Its annoying & loud. The mechanics told me it was my dust seal on my front axle but they changed it & its making the same noise even worse than before.
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Have a knocking noise on my right front when I hit a hole or when the wheel comes up like when I turn I to a drive way that has a little hill the right tire hits and I hear a popping Boise sounds like its under the truck but I can't place it? I have a 2003 f250 crewcab 4x4 with 6.0 and 6inch lift with 37 inch tires....
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